Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Alpamayo: Frank & Team Take a Weather Day

July 8, 2014

Posted by: Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

Elevation: 17,880'

Although we were excited and prepared to climb when we went to bed last night, the weather refused to cooperate with us. We woke up at midnight to hail and freezing rain, along with six inches of snow already on the ground. After two hours of watching the weather and hoping for improvement, we gave up and went back to bed. This morning the skies were scattered, but dry. After breakfast we were able to punch a path up to the base of the route. At points the snow was nearly waist deep. Most of the snow had come down from the face above and it felt like wading through Dip-n-Dots. We are back in camp now, resting and hoping for better weather in the morning. Thinking of our friends and family, RMI Guide Eric Frank and the Alpamayo Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good luck guys. Hope you summit today. Fingers and toes crossed.
A

Posted by: andrea on 7/9/2014 at 9:33 am

We’re praying—and so are lots of others - Love, Pam

“but they who wait for the Lord shall renew their strength,
they shall mount up with wings like eagles,
they shall run and not be weary,
they shall walk and not faint.” Isaiah 40:31

Posted by: pam proctor on 7/9/2014 at 4:19 am

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Mt. Elbrus: Justman & Team Climb Peak Cheget

July 8, 2014

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside

Elevation: 11,000'

Hi RMI Blog Enthusiasts! It was really nice to finally get in the mountains and breathe some fresh air! We had a gorgeous day as you'll see in the video. The team had a relaxing day as we strolled up to 11,000 feet topping out on Peak Cheget. Tomorrow we will continue the adventure and head to the hut on the lower flanks of the mighty Elbrus. Sad news...or maybe you'll be glad...I don't think I'll be able to post anymore videos until we get down in a few days. If you have any questions please contact my agent... RMI Guide JJ Justman

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Weather the Storm at 14,000’

July 8, 2014

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Ben Liken, Sean Collon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

It snowed through the night and into the morning here at 14,200 ft. Not heavily, and there wasn't much wind finding our camp, so it wasn't like it was an awful or epic storm. But it was enough of a storm to keep us from going climbing today. We caught the odd view of the mountainside through occasional cloud breaks in the morning and saw dramatic avalanche scars in the Messner Couloir and Orient Express that matched the rumbling we'd heard. After a long breakfast, we turned the day into a rest day to shore up our acclimatization. By evening, the clouds were breaking up and it seemed that weather was improving again. We'll try again tomorrow. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

Mt. Rainier: July 8th - SUMMIT!

July 8, 2014

Posted by: Brent Okita, Mike King, Andrew Kiefer

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Brent Okita reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at about 6:40am today. Brent reported a beautiful morning with clear skies and calm winds of 10 – 15 mph. The team is doing well and have started their descent to Camp Muir. Tyler Jones and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz Team also reached the summit of Mt. Rainier later in the morning. The team had a great climb and have started their descent back to their high camp on the Wilson Glacier. Congratulations Teams!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Well done Charlie.

You won’t soon forget this experience.

And congratulations to the rest of the team and to the RMI guides who did their usual outstanding job keeping everyone safe while pushing them to find hidden reserves they never knew existed.

Very well done indeed.

Dad

Posted by: Art Muir on 7/15/2014 at 8:52 pm

Well done team! Looks absolutely amazing.

Posted by: Clara Arnold on 7/10/2014 at 6:28 am

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Alpamayo: Frank & Team Poised at High Camp

July 7, 2014

Posted by: Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

Elevation: 17,600'

It is hard to sit under Alpamayo's southwest face and not stare for an extended period of time. Our team, along with three other groups moved up to the Col Camp (17,600') today and find ourselves trying to prepare for the ascent tomorrow, but constantly distracted by the beauty of the route. From our tents the route rises nearly 2,000 feet in a vertical line of frozen snow and ice. An alpinist's dream. Getting to camp today was a job in itself. We climbed up a glacier for 90 minutes to the base of a headwall. It took three pitches of ice to reach the saddle where camp lies. The team performed well, but climbing 60-degree ice at 17,000 feet with 45-pound packs had everyone breathing hard. Stay tuned for tomorrow. We hope to make an attempt and will call via satellite phone to update everyone with the results. RMI Guide Eric Frank and the Alpamayo team

Mt. McKinley: Knoff and Team Experience Deja Vu

July 7, 2014

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Lindsay Mann

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Monday, July 7, 2014 - 12:05 PM PT Well, the team is currently experiencing deja vu here at 11,200' camp on Mt. McKinley. Before arriving here in deja vu land, the team did an AWESOME job packing up high camp and descending to 14,200' camp. At 14,200' we were met by Dave Hahn and his team who treated us to lots of hot water and quesadillas. Delicious and just what we needed! Descending to 11 camp required all of our attention as we re-acquainted ourselves with sleds, experienced some post-holing, and walked (as best we could) through less than exciting weather. Now to the deja vu part of the story...a snow storm at 11,200'. We thought the weather gods had released all of the snow on us already but we were wrong. We are doing a weather dance right now so we can continue our descent and make our dreams of warm showers, cold beers, and loved ones a reality. Until then, we will keep you posted. RMI Guide Adam Knoff

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Soooo cool! You made it to the top!!I want to see the beard pics too!! Create some great memories and take care of you XO

Posted by: Auntie Mel on 7/11/2014 at 5:43 am

Adam, Praying that this storm is short and that you will all be safely down VERY soon. MOM

Posted by: Jane on 7/7/2014 at 8:42 pm

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Peru Seminar: Elias & Team Summit Ishinca!

July 7, 2014

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

Elevation: 18,143'

Hello, good morning. This is the Peru climbing team calling from the summit of Ishinca, 5,530 meters. It's 9:45 a.m. local time. I'm going to let you know how the crew is doing... [Team's happy cheers!] I hope that was a good enough sign. We had a heck of a climb this morning. The team crushed it. We are having a really good day. We've had some easy weather the last couple of days but this morning from sunrise to right now, nothing but blue skies. The views from up here are astonishing, and we'll let you know when you see the pictures. We will keep you posted of our schedule. Tomorrow we are going to take a rest day and we'll see what the next couple days bring us as we wrap up the program. We call you back and I hope everybody is doing well at home. That's it for now. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

Elias de Andres Martos calls in from the Inshinca summit!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Awesome, Lucy and Corell!!! So excited for you and the rest of the team!!!
One more to go!
Can’t wait to hear about it all, and to see photos!

Corell- the boys are home from Philmont—Colman is filled with stories—not the least of which is waking up to a lightning-induced forest fire ~100 yds away across the creek. A nascent forest fire that their group actually alerted the nearby staff/ranger camp about, and the same fire that made the papers back here… YIKES! we are fortunate the group leader got up earlier than the others to make coffee—noticed the flames filling the trees just across the creek, then went to the tents with the sleeping boys and said, “Boys, we might have a bit of an emergency here…” Colman said they had never packed up so fast!!!!

Thurston’s group was not on same trail, but apparently saw the flames…think both groups were diverted a bit. I think the fire was finally contained a week later…
But oh my!

Hoping your adventures are challenging—- but not so dangerous!!
XOXO

Posted by: Dana Marie on 7/8/2014 at 8:53 pm

Great job, Lucy. So good to hear everyone is climbing well and the weather is cooperating. All is well in VA. Love from all 5 of us. C

Posted by: Carter on 7/8/2014 at 6:39 pm

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Mt. Rainier: July 7th Update

July 7, 2014

Posted by: Casey Grom, Seth Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Mount Rainier Four Day and Five Day Summit Climbs, led by Seth Waterfall and Casey Grom, reached the summit this morning with clear skies, warm temperaturess and winds ranging from 5-20 mph. Both teams began their descent from the crater rim at 7:15 a.m. Congratulations to today's climbers! RMI Guides Seth Waterfall and Casey Grom

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Congratulations Wesley McCabe on climing to reach your dreams July 8th, 2014. Proud of you Buddy, Love Dad

Posted by: Roger McCabe on 7/8/2014 at 10:01 am

Congratulations Wesley McCabe on climing to reach your dreams. Proud of you Buddy, Love Dad

Posted by: Roger McCabe on 7/8/2014 at 9:59 am

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Peru Seminar: Elias & Team Ready to Climb Ishinca

July 6, 2014

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

Elevation: 14,400'

Hello everyone, this is Elias, Robby and the team in the Ishinca Valley. We are getting ready to go to bed as we are going to climb Ishinca tonight. It is 7:30 in the evening here. Today we spent the day doing some training at the glacier of the Ishinca Peak. We cached some gear up there and then tomorrow we should be having another awesome climbing day on this astonishing peak called Ishinca. Hopefully, we will get a signal from the summit and we will call from there in about half a day or so. Hope all is well back home and we'll keep you posted. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Ishinca Basecamp.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Victor…..Arnie says be safe and use protective eye wear and have your o2 ready. Are they serving sautéed veal cheeks at your camps?

Gary, Linda and Arnie

Posted by: Gary Rostron on 7/8/2014 at 4:34 pm

Hey Kim!!! It’s just amazing what beauty you & the team get to view from your adventures climbing up there!!! Awesome strength, courage & a tremendous spirit!! Us sea level-lovers have to make-do with pictures (which, of course, we can’t wait to see). Summit on! Have fun! Hugs & cheers, Trish

Posted by: Trish on 7/7/2014 at 2:56 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Back Carry to 13,500’

July 6, 2014

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Ben Liken, Sean Collon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

July 6, 2014 - 10:18 pm PT Today, our first day at 14K, wasn't very difficult. We got up just slightly ahead of the sun, which made it past Denali's West Rib at 9:20 AM. We had a big breakfast and then geared up to go rescue our cache from the ravens. It only took a few minutes to walk down to 13,500 feet. And then a bit longer to dig up our food and gear -which, thankfully, hadn't been attacked by birds. Then it was just about an hour in the hot sun to get back to camp. We had a short training session in the afternoon to review techniques that we'll employ on the fixed rope section between 15,000 and 16,000 feet. And around dinner time, we were happy to welcome Adam Knoff's victorious team back into 14 camp. They drank water and repacked while telling us stories of the upper mountain. Then they eased out of camp on their way to 11K while we dined, chatted, and headed for bed. The sky has clouded up again and light snow is falling, but we'll hope that tomorrow's weather stays good enough for us to carry up to 16K. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Wishing you all a very successful and safe journey to the summit!
You guys are an inspiration!

Posted by: Ahin Handa on 7/7/2014 at 12:21 pm

Hello Denali-Team!
Thank you for your reports, I read every day. So I can take part a little bit in your expedition. Really I haven´t seen so much snow before, even not on pictures.
Furthermore I wish you sunny weather and a good time for all of you! Stay healthy and in good condition!
Ute

Posted by: Ute Novak on 7/7/2014 at 8:09 am

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Alpamayo: Frank & Team Take a Weather Day

Mt. Elbrus: Justman & Team Climb Peak Cheget

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Weather the Storm at 14,000’

Mt. Rainier: July 8th - SUMMIT!

Alpamayo: Frank & Team Poised at High Camp

Mt. McKinley: Knoff and Team Experience Deja Vu

Peru Seminar: Elias & Team Summit Ishinca!

Mt. Rainier: July 7th Update

Peru Seminar: Elias & Team Ready to Climb Ishinca

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Back Carry to 13,500’

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