The Expedition Skills Seminar – Emmons is soaking up the sun and setting up camp in Glacier Basin. The team is doing really well and everyone is excited to be on the mountain. There are clouds building so taking advantage of the sun is the number one priority for training this afternoon.
RMI Guide JJ Justman
The Four Day Summit Climb led by Dan Windham reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning! The team took advantage of the firm snow conditions offered by climbing in the wee morning hours and are making their way back through the clouds to sunny Camp Muir. The team will descend to Paradise and return to Ashford later today.
We have a Five Day Summit Climb at Camp Muir, an Expedition Skills Seminar – Emmons beginning their time on the mountain.
Saturday, June 15th, 2013
Big day here on Denali. A big congrats to Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens and crew for a job well done going to the top! We didn't lounge around ourselves and made an early bid for our cache at Washburn's Thumb. The team handled the fixes lines very well and we made great time up to 16,400 feet under perfect climbing conditions. It was a great day to enjoy the views and we relaxed up high before hitting the sauna on our way down. It was HOT and we were sure glad to be on our way back to camp by the time the temperatures peaked.
Naps followed our work day and we are tentatively optimistic that we will be able to move higher tomorrow and get in position to put all the hard work and experience to the test in the next few days. Keep some fingers crossed for us friends, we're gonna need some good weather for a few days.
Over and out.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Wonderful news!!
We are sending the good weather vibes from LA to you all!
Thinking of the Team often and wishing you luck these next few days!
~S Brownie
Posted by: S Brownie on 6/16/2013 at 1:51 pm
Peter!
So proud of you and your team! Happy to hear you are safe and still climbing. Miss you and am excited to see you on your safe arrival home! Lots of love.
Saturday, June 15th, 2013
After another early start, we made our way up to 10,000 feet and cached some of the food, fuel, and gear that we will not need until later. We started walking uphill around 4 a.m. this morning because even though we are camping and traveling on ice and snow, it can be quite hot with the sun beating down and reflecting upon us. We returned to camp just after 11 a.m. Katie and Uchal made some delicious breakfast burritos before we all turned in for our afternoon naps. Don't judge, we worked hard!
The plan for tomorrow is to pack up camp early and head towards our next spot at around 9,600 feet. The mountain is pretty quiet since there are not many teams flying on the mountain right now.
Everyone is happy and healthy. Yvonne, Peter wanted me to let you know he is especially happy and healthy!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
P.S. Congratulations to Tyler Jones and team for their summit!
Enjoyed meeting you’all in Talkeetna. I am happy to hear you all are safe and sound. We had a “standard” at the Roadhouse and a couple of Ice Ax Axes at the West Rib in your honor this afternoon. Heading home tomorrow. Good luck on the mountain, and I hope you all summit.
Posted by: Papa Haugen on 6/16/2013 at 4:52 pm
Happy Fathers Day, Q! Jack and I miss you, hope you are having a great time!
Saturday, June 15th, 2013
Today was a busy day at the roof of North America! Our team was first out of the gates from 17,200' camp, with a warm, windless departure at 8:00am. The first stretch of the route above camp is also one of the most technical and time consuming; it's called the "Autobahn" and takes a strong, committed team to single push across the steeply rising traverse to Denali Pass.
Our group crushed it, and we were enjoying the sun on the east side of the pass soon enough. The next few stretches went by relatively quickly, although nothing is lightning fast at 19,000'. By the time we reached the Football Field, a flat saddle just below the summit ridge, we were down to base layers and light gloves. Considering the fierce reputation that Denali has for arctic temperatures and raging wind, we consider ourselves incredibly lucky to have had a such an incredible day.
The last climb up Pig Hill was taxing our legs and our lungs, and just when folks had had enough we reached the final summit ridge. Forty minutes later, our team put the highest point of the continent under their crampons, amid much hugging and celebration.
The trip back down was uneventful, albeit hot. The sun roasted our tired crew all the way back to camp. But as soon as we got back, folks were out of boots and into tents, resting and relaxing as we brought hot water and heaping helpings of ramen with bacon and chicken. We're ready for the long trip back to base camp, but that's for another day. Right now, we're savoring the day's events and getting ready for some well earned sleep. Thanks again and we'll check back in soon!
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
RMI Guide Tyler Jones and the team from the Mount McKinley summit!
Congratulations Lori and team members. Great job to the guides who encouraged and fed you and got you to your goal. Dad and I haven’t had internet service for days and have had to rely on Dad’s cell phone. Thus, I wasn’t sending you encouragement in words, but you were never far from our thoughts. SO LOOKING FORWARD TO HEARING YOUR VOICE. Love you, mom and dad.
Posted by: Fern Hansen on 6/16/2013 at 10:07 am
Sweeeeeeeeeeet!!!!!!!!!!!!
Nice work Chickie and team. Congrats to you all.
RMI Guides JJ Justman and Levi Kepsel led their Emmons Seminar team through a mountaineering school at Paradise today. It was a beautiful day as shown in JJ's video of photos.
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Geoff Schellens and the Four Day Summit Climb team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 7:28am this morning. The team reported clear beautiful skies, steady winds of 10 mph, and cool temperatures. The group spent some time on the summit enjoying the views and are now en route back to Camp Muir.
Congrautations to today's teams!
Friday, June 14, 2013
Greetings from Summit Team 6! We bit off a huge chunk today with our move from Basecamp to Camp 1. We carried all of the food, fuel, equipment, and clothing that we will need for our expedition. Needless to say, we carried heavy! We made the trip up glacier in just under five hours.
Once in camp, we made a bombproof tent site sheltered from the wind. It took us around an hour to get camp setup and organized. We took advantage of another beautifully warm and clear afternoon to take some siesta time. This was much needed since we woke up at 2:00 a.m. to pack up this morning.
We are just getting ready for a Dinty Moore and mashed potatoes dinner. I would imagine it will be another early evening since we have another early wake up time scheduled. Our plan is to carry gear up a bit higher and make a cache and then return to the same camp tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and McKinley Team 6
Friday, June 14, 2013
Light and variable wind started over night with warmer temperatures. We woke early to beat the heat and the people that have collected at the 14 camp over the past week of stormy weather!
We began our climb to high camp in cold squeaky snow conditions. The headwall where the fixed lines are located were a bit more difficult than our trip up the other day as the wind nearly stripped all the snow and left firm icy climbing! From the top of the lines we began a perfect climb up the West Buttress, which is the most exposed and picturesque part of the climb. The climb was hard but the team did very well. We have sparked our match for our summit push! Currently we are again cowering from the most intense sun of the trip basking in our shelters at 17,200' Denali high camp! Our chill mentality had payed huge today and with a bit o' luck we will have nice weather tomorrow for our summit push! More food, water, and relaxing for the eve. We will try for a call from the summit tomorrow afternoon! Hi Five!
RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, and Team!
Happy Father’s Day , Justin! Anxiously awaiting to hear that you and team have summited. As one of the guides alluded to in a previous blog, this experience is about more than just climbing a snowy mountain!!!! Can’t wait to hear all the details and “meet” your new friends. Be safe! Love you——Mom and Dad
Friday, June 14, 2013
It sure felt nice for the team to get a little extra time in sleeping bags this morning before an epic pancake and bacon breakfast. Then it was off to practice for the fixed lines and Autobahn just outside of camp. The team is primed and ready for moving up on the mountain, skills sharp and energy high. After a siesta, we will take a stroll over to the Edge of the World and take in the sights nearly 7,000 feet down the NE Fork o the Kahiltna before dinner. Not a bad day up here at all.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
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Congratulations for all the team but specially to my brother Marcoos, I am so proud of him.I love you.
Posted by: Clau Bere on 6/19/2013 at 2:56 pm
I´m so proud of you my dear son Marcos. Kisses, your Mom.
Estoy muy orgullosa de ti, mi querido hijo Marcos. Besos, tu mare.
Posted by: Guadalupe Castillo on 6/18/2013 at 2:28 pm
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