Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Rainier: July 6th Summit!

July 6, 2012

Posted by: Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Jake Beren and Elias de Andres Martos led the Four Day Summit Climb teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The team was reaching the crater rim just before 8 a.m. PT. It is a beautiful, sunny day with light to moderate winds. The team will spend some time on top before starting their descent to Camp Muir. They will continue down to Paradise later this afternoon. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp later this afternoon. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Jerry, you are a force of nature. Congratulations to you and all on team. Remain an inspiration to us all Jerry bro.
Rodney

Posted by: Brother Rodney on 7/7/2012 at 11:42 pm

Congratulations to Volkan and and other team members.have a safe trip back. :)

Posted by: sebnem on 7/7/2012 at 3:42 am

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Cotopaxi Express: Nugent & Team Ready for Summit Bid

July 5, 2012

Posted by: Billy Nugent

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 16,000'

Hey everybody, it's Billy calling in with another dispatch here from the Jose Ribas Hut on Cotopaxi. We went out on the glacier today out and did some training. Got ourselves back up to speed with all the fun stuff in a typical climbing school: cramponing, ice axe arrest and basically getting used to working with our tips. The crew did really well despite the high elevation. We just had a great meal here, courtesy of the caretakers at the hut and we are going to be early. We are getting up in the middle of the night to take a crack at the summit. So right now I'm outside looking at nothing but stars. We are hoping this weather holds for us... We'll see what happens and we'll give you a call tomorrow and let everybody know what came of us. Signing off for now. RMI Guide Billy Nugent

RMI Guide Billy Nugent checks in from the Jose Ribas Hut on Cotopaxi

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Carstensz Pyramid: Summit!

July 5, 2012

Posted by: Alex Van Steen, Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Carstensz Pyramid

Elevation: 16,023'

Good morning, this is Alex Van Steen from the Carstensz Expedition. And my oh my, what a day we had yesterday. And here is the great word: RMI has summitted Carstensz Pyramid! We had a long day but everybody, despite being exhausted, did, really, really well. We all have a little bit of an altitude hack and the desire to head the other direction, but we are just loving this experience. I wish I could send photos via this dispatch, but they will be posted later. We've got lots of photos, and lots more stories. Stay tuned. Thanks, good-bye.

RMI Guide Alex Van Steen with the Carstensz summit news.

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Alex, I’m so proud of you!!! Good job. Love, your cousin-in-law!!! ;-)

Posted by: Lynnette Rutledge on 7/6/2012 at 7:53 pm

Hey guys!! So incredibly proud of all of you! To celebrate your achievements today, Sophie and Kasey slept til noon!!!!You guys are all amazing. Can’t wait to see the pics and hear the stories. Get home safe!

Posted by: Uncle Martin on 7/6/2012 at 4:51 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team As the Wind Blows

July 5, 2012

Posted by: Mike Uchal, Adam Knoff, Zeb Blais

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

This is the June 19th Denali Expedition welcoming you to the first episode, of the new hit saga, "As the Wind Blows." Time flies when you're having fun at 17,000 feet. We're now going on our third full day at high camp. We've determined that the forecast provided by the National Park Service, is reliable as a politician in an election year. Despite the gale force winds and frigid temperatures, the team remains positive. We pass the time eating junk food and sharing iPods as our batteries last. Zeb and Adam ventured to 19,000 feet yesterday to check snow stability and rock conditions after high winds and snowfall. The avalanche danger a concern. They've deemed the route safe, which now leaves the ball in the court of Mother Nature. 17,000 feet is a harsh waiting room, which increases the longing for family, friends, and the creature comforts of our homes. We invite you to wait with us lower 48 as we pass the time here at 17K. Stay tune for the next episode of, "As the Wind Blows." RMI Guide Mike Uchal

RMI Guide Mike Uchal with the First Episode of As the Wind Blows

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Nelson-

You are an inspiration! I cannot wait to hear about your big adventure. I’m really proud of you. Take good care and I’ll see you later this year.

Katie

Posted by: Katie Taylor on 7/6/2012 at 2:49 pm

Nelson,
We just found out what your doing this summer! We are following you everyday!
Be safe and strong! We are anxious for clear weather! I wrote to James today to tell him what your up to. He completed Air Assault and has checked into Camp Buckner!
He is looking forward to visiting you at college this year! We loved seeing all your adventure photos from last summer and are so impressed to find out what your doing this summer! Not many people in the world can even attempt what you are doing! Glad to know you and be part of your life!
Thinking of you,
The Kinsey Family

Posted by: Lori Kinsey on 7/6/2012 at 2:30 pm

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Mt. Elbrus: Justman and Team Hike Cheget Peak

July 5, 2012

Posted by: JJ Justman

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside

Elevation: 10.600'

Hi everyone this is JJ Justman for the Mount Elbrus expedition. Today we had a great day here on Cheget Peak. We had a great acclimatization hike on a very beautiful clear sunny day. We had fantastic views of Mount Elbrus and we topped out at 10,600 ft. We finished the hike with a wonderful lunch down in town après ski style. After a little rest and relaxation we went over our climbing gear and we are now officially ready to jump on the big hill tomorrow! RMI Guide JJ Justman & Team.

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: July 5th Update

July 5, 2012

Posted by: Walter Hailes

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 12,800'

Our Four Day Summit Climb team led by Dan Windham, and our Expedition Skills Seminar – Paradise led by Walter Hailes made it to 12,800’ but made the decision to turn back due to unstable snow conditions. The teams have left Camp Muir and we expect them back to Rainier Basecamp in the early afternoon.

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Return to Talkeetna

July 4, 2012

Posted by: Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 358'

Happy 4th of July! Our Denali climbing team is celebrating the 4th in Talkeetna, AK! We were able to fly off of the glacier today amidst cloudy skies and low layers of fog. K2 Aviation did a great job of watching the weather and getting planes in to Basecamp when possible in order to facilitate our return to society. After hot showers and a little down time, we're looking forward to a festive celebration dinner at the Twister Creek Restaurant. Thanks for following our journey to the highest point in North America! It's been a great trip, and we're already looking forward to our next adventure together...what's yours? RMI Guide Mike Walter

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Enjoy a Lounge Day

July 4, 2012

Posted by: Dave Hahn

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,000'

Happy Fourth!!! But actually our sixth day on the mountain and our first rest day. If it hadn't been proclaimed a rest day in advance, it would have become one anyway, but we'd have labeled it a storm day. Light, but continuous snow fell and we were seldom granted views of the sky, the sun or the mountains. Winds were aimless but persistent, making it a fine day for tenting. The team got up with the sun -or at least when the sun came out from behind the West Buttress at 9:15 AM and ducked behind clouds. Breakfast was held in the POSH and consisted of salmon, bagels, cream cheese and hot drinks. Conversation ranged from whales to polar bears and royal families. Cards were played, books were read and iPod movies were watched. Everyone seems to be acclimatizing well -which was the goal in resting here at 11,000 before the hoped for move to 14,200. While camp had seemed quite busy two days ago, it now seems quiet with just three other teams -all on similar schedules, give or take a day or two. Together we represent the end of the guided climbing season on Denali. Our team, although pleasantly diverse and international in composition is proud to be celebrating the fourth by climbing the America's highest peak. Although today we are climbing it from a predominantly seated position. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Mark,enjoy following your climb. Stay safe, healthy and enjoy the experience. I admire you for your dedication and courage. Hope the weather clears for you - and best of luck to you and the entire climbing crew.

Posted by: Bob B on 7/5/2012 at 6:48 pm

The team seems to be making solid progress!!! We are watching/waiting for your updates to this blog. This is exciting for us mortals to witness!!!

Go Richard!!!

Posted by: jerrett on 7/5/2012 at 11:10 am

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Cotopaxi Express: Nugent & Team Check in from Jose Ribas Refugio

July 4, 2012

Posted by: Billy Nugent

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 16,000'

Hey Everybody Billy calling in with another dispatch this time for the 4th of July. Happy Independence Day everyone back home! Hope you guys are celebrating properly with barbecues and blowing things up as it typical custom. Not so much of that here in Ecuador. We actually left the Chilcabamba Eco Lodge this morning and headed up to the Jose Ribas Refugio. The team is getting settled in we had a great dinner and we are looking forward to that first rough night at a new elevation. Hopefully the team will do well and make it through the night. Tomorrow we plan to head out and do a little training as we continue to acclimatize and get prepped for our big summit push. We will call and check in tomorrow after our training day and let you know you how we did. Again, Happy Independence Day to everyone back home. RMI Guide Billy Nugent and Team.

Billy Nugent checks in on the 4th of July.

On The Map

Mt. McKinley Expedition: Knoff and Team at 17,000’ Waiting

July 4, 2012

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Mike Uchal, Zeb Blais

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Greetings everyone! This is Mike Uchal from the June 19th Denali Expedition with Adam Knoff, Zeb Blais, and team. We are celebrating the 4th of July here at 17,000’ with fresh coffee and great group stories. We are being proactive at fighting an impossible tent-bound fever with short jaunts outside and hot meals in our group tent, when the weather allows. We’ll continue to play this now mental game as we continue to wait for our weather window for our summit attempt. Please stay tuned Lower 48 and happy 4th of July to all of our friends and family from our team here at 17000’. Good bye. RMI Guide Mike Uchal

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

DG,
Enjoy your time on the mountain. I was in court today in Durham and all the Marshalls were asking about you. Speaking of court—that’s where I’ll be tommorrow, Monday and Tuesday. And I’m not even the litigator in the family. So, there are worse things than waiting on a weather window! Bet you wish you had a Kindle though!

Stay focused!
Stephanie

Posted by: Stephanie on 7/5/2012 at 4:49 pm

Hi Uncle mike! It’s grace and sam. Boudro says hi! (mom says its Boudreaux but i dont like like that spelling) he’s very crazy! We miss you soooooooo much. Guess what? Mom’s pregnant! Yay, we are so excited! Have fun!

Posted by: Grace and Sam on 7/5/2012 at 3:22 pm

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Rainier: July 6th Summit!

Cotopaxi Express: Nugent & Team Ready for Summit Bid

On The Map

Carstensz Pyramid: Summit!

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team As the Wind Blows

On The Map

Mt. Elbrus: Justman and Team Hike Cheget Peak

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: July 5th Update

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Return to Talkeetna

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Enjoy a Lounge Day

On The Map

Cotopaxi Express: Nugent & Team Check in from Jose Ribas Refugio

On The Map

Mt. McKinley Expedition: Knoff and Team at 17,000’ Waiting

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