Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb team led by RMI Guides Steve Gately and Jordan Cargill reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Steve reported clear skies, light winds and very cold temperatures with some thunderheads building in the east. The team will spend some time on the summit before heading back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to Today's Teams!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Way to go, Tim and Taylor! So proud and excited for you and your team. What a great way to spend Father’s Day weekend. Love you both so much

Posted by: Kami Small on 6/16/2018 at 3:23 pm

Congratulations Tyler!!

Posted by: Tina on 6/16/2018 at 3:13 pm

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Write Poem at 14,000’

June 15, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Elevation: 14,000'

Friday, June 15, 2018 - 6:34 PM PT A poem written by the team: Today we had a foot race, We all died trying to keep pace, Another weather day spent playing spades Up at 14 foiled by these Pineapple Express charades The snow is getting deep and the wind getting strong We’re standing in the posh but not for very long. My feet are so cold from standing on the ice, Don’t fret for we’ll be crushing more rice. These foreseeable high winds are full, While our gastrointestinals are quite dull. Even still Spirits were high until news of a pig came before the nigh. RMI Guide Tyler Jones & Team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great poem! Unfortunately, it sounds like you have more than enough time to perfect your prose…
A little snow shoveling doesn’t sound bad about now as it’s a typical hot (98 degrees) and muggy day in good ole’ STL! Loving all the pictures, but a few up close of all those faces we miss, would be even better! :)). Here’s to clearing weather and a successful trip to the Summit! XO Coeli (Nick’s Mom)

Posted by: Coeli Scott on 6/16/2018 at 7:18 pm

Also, good luck to everyone else on the team! I hope you all are able to summit without complications and even if there are some, I hope you can overcome them. Fighting!

Good luck,
Sarah

Posted by: Sarah Wu on 6/15/2018 at 9:54 pm

Alaska Alpine Climb: Elias & Team Take Advantage of a Narrow Weather Window

June 15, 2018

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska

Elevation: 348'

Friday, June 15, 2018 - 6:00 PM PT And it is a wrap up! The Alaska Alpine Climbing program came to an end. After 7 days of straight climbing with no rest or weather days, we flew out on time to beat the bad weather without risking getting stuck on the glacier. All in all, success all around! A changing weather morning made us pack up quick and the word was out from our pilots at K2 Aviation that heavy winds might delay our pick up; other areas were shut down for flying! In a record time we dismantled our camp and we were pulling our last load into the Pika Glacier Runway as the plane showed above us. A bumpy ride to Talkeetna brought us to the land of beer and pizza (and showers!) and after unpacking and cleaning our gear, the team enjoyed a nice meal as we shared the best moments of the trip. We already made it to Anchorage, and everyone is off to home. As for the guides, we're already looking forward to our next expedition in 2019! RMI Guide Elías de Andrés Martos

On The Map

Denali Expedition: King & Team Stack Walls at 14,000’ Camp

June 15, 2018

Posted by: Mike King, JT Schmitt, Ben Ammon

Elevation: 14,200'

Friday, June 15, 2018 - 5:50 PM PT Today was a prime lesson in the Three Pigs and the Big Bad Wolf. We got some comments and stares yesterday while building 7 foot walls around our Camp with such blue skies and warm temps. This morning we got even more remarks from people as we continued to build. By 4 pm the winds had picked up to 30+ mph gusts and the Pigs who had built their homes from straw were in full scramble mode while our Pigs rested in their tents surrounded by snow bricks. We practiced some skills for climbing the fixed lines, they gets us higher on the West Buttress and will hang out while Denali does what Denali wants to. Currently it's demanding that we, "respect it's authority". RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

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Hey Scott! Totally echo what Julie said (except for the “babe” part). Good luck with the weather—pretty much rounds out everything you can possibly come across on the mountain, doesn’t it? Hang in there bud. Hope you brought a good book.

~Chris

Hi Scott. Perseverance - the secret of all triumphs. Kick some booty. Wishing you safe steps and glorious sunrises. - Judy

Posted by: Chris Beaudette on 6/16/2018 at 1:52 pm

Scott-looks like you and team my be stuck at 14,000 for a while due to weather! Not as cold as last time! Maybe guys can get caught up with all the amazing comments people have been sending! You’ve got this babe! Keep warm, hang tight, and then just HOP up to the summit in time! Love you!
Julie

Posted by: Julie Faulkenburg on 6/16/2018 at 9:28 am

Mt. Rainier: June 15th Teams Reach the Summit!

June 15, 2018

Posted by: Mike Walter, Ben Liken

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guide Mike Walter and Ben Liken reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Mike reported clear skies and calm winds. The team will spend some time on the summit celebrating and enjoying the views before starting their descent. Congratulations to today's Teams!

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Great Work Son

Posted by: Dad on 6/25/2018 at 7:42 am

Congrats to the team!!!!! Amazing job

Posted by: Cheryl Barry on 6/16/2018 at 1:40 pm

Denali Expedition: Haugen and Team Move to 7,800’ Camp

June 14, 2018

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Hannah McGowan, Gloria Roe

Elevation: 7,800'

Thursday, June 14, 2018 - 8:01 PM PT We had a super early start this morning. We were very proud of Super Crew 6 this morning for getting up and packing up with style so we could get on the trail quickly. I gave them a C+ to their face but it was really an A+ effort. I didn't want them getting too cocky right off the bat! We had a great walk up the Kahiltna Glacier through light snow and medium visibility. As we approached camp, the sky started to clear and bit and we have been able to see Denali on and off since then. We are dug in safely and 7,800' and will make an on the fly decision whether to move up to our next camp based on what the weather looks like when we get up at 2 a.m. Keep your fingers crossed for us! RMI Guide Mike Haugen and the Super Crew

On The Map

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Great job Super Team! Team “currently only 1/3 ginger” has the fort back home. So Rusty doesn’t feel left out, today we enjoyed a pan flute rendition of “Nothing Else Matters”

Posted by: Marsha on 6/15/2018 at 5:07 pm

Following this adventure with wonder! Go David!

Posted by: Jennifer Baker on 6/15/2018 at 2:33 pm

Denali Expedition: King & Team Build Camp at 14,000’

June 14, 2018

Posted by: Mike King, JT Schmitt, Ben Ammon

Elevation: 14,000'

Thursday, June 14, 2018 - 7:42 PM PT After yesterday's grueling day the team slept in until the sun hit our tents, 9ish. We had a slow start with salmon and cream cheese bagels and coffee. The goal for today was to build walls around our tents and get our kitchen/dining tent dug out and reinforced. The walls are built by digging through the loose snow into the firm layers below. Then we take snow saws and begin to quarry large blocks to be the foundational row. Each successive layer gets smaller so the wall isn't top heavy. The walls help keep wind from destroying our tents. The team rallied through their wall building then helped the guides finish reinforcing the kitchen tent or Posh as we call it. The Posh is a five sided tent without a floor. We dig a hole in the snow and have benches for people to sit and cooking counters for the guides. Out of the wind and sun we enjoy our meals, today's dinner is hand rolled chicken burritos. With the menacing forecast on the horizon we will put the finishing touches on camp and hunker down for the remnants of a tropical cyclone that is headed for Alaska. People are happy for the sunshine and tired from the 'light exercise' of camp craft. This helps us acclimate in preparation for heading to 17,000' Camp, High Camp, for our cache day and ultimately our summit day when the weather and mountain tell us it's time to go up. Until then we will be at 14,000' continuing to get comfortable being uncomfortable and focusing on the tasks that our in our control and leaving the conditions that our out of our control to Denali. Thanks for following along. RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Storm Preparation at 14K Camp

June 14, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Elevation: 14,200'

Thursday, June 14th - 4:36 pm PT We aren’t getting restless yet! We had a beautiful but gusty morning at camp that allowed us to improve our storm walls and batten down the hatches. The summit has been displaying quite the cap over it with long tails indicating the strong winds up high on top of the frigid temperatures. The forecast has finally confirmed that beginning tomorrow and through the weekend will bring heavy snow. We are going to catch the tail of a tropical surge coming off the Pacific, some words to describe it have been a cyclone or Pineapple Express. We will keep you updated on the snowfall amounts! Yesterday, we had a greeting party to welcome Mike King’s team at 14 Camp. We are glad to have some additional company as we wait out this storm. Thanks for the blog comments from our family and friends, keep them coming! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I should read my voice recognition typo’s before I send. That first line was supposed to have read:

YOU ARE ALL SO AMAZING!!!

Posted by: Liuise (again) on 6/15/2018 at 7:29 pm

You are also amazing!!
It seemed that everything was going so smoothly at first but it is these days of enduring this storm that will probably the story that gets told a lot. Too bad you can’t package the cold and bring it back with you to Las Vegas, huh Marc! We’re cheering you on from down here in the Rockies!

Posted by: Louise on 6/15/2018 at 7:26 pm

Mt. Rainier: Dale & Team Summit Via the Kautz Route

June 14, 2018

Posted by: Christina Dale

Elevation: 14,410'

At 12:36 pm RMI Guide Christina Dale radioed from the Mt. Rainier summit. Her team reached the summit via the Kautz Glacier during their six-day seminar. The team will check in from their high camp and descend the rest of the way off the mountain tomorrow.

Mt. Rainier: RMI Teams Summit!

June 14, 2018

Posted by: Eric Frank, Andy Bond

Elevation: 14,410'

On a calm and cold morning, RMI Guides Eric Frank and Andy Bond led their teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier. They are above the clouds enjoying the sun on their descent. Congratulations to today's summit climbers!

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Congratulations to all! Quite an accomplishment.

Posted by: Ann Hernick on 6/15/2018 at 10:50 am

This message is from the “other Stephanie Renner”. I’m so happy for Chris and Andy Renner! What an accomplishment!

Posted by: Stephanie Renner on 6/14/2018 at 5:17 pm