Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Rainier: July 1st Update

July 1, 2017

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI teams, led by Pete Van Deventer and Chase Nelson, reached the Mt. Rainier summit at 5:45 a.m. The weather is nice and at 7:05 a.m. the teams were at High Break on their descent. Congratulations to today's summit climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Many thanks to Pete, Peter and Jordan for guiding us to the summit. It was was a great reward for our journey that began in January with “small” hikes!

Cheers,
Daryl

Posted by: Daryl on 7/3/2017 at 12:23 am

Pete, Pete, Chase, and Jordan-

You guys were the best. Thank you all for taking care of me, my closest friends, and family. Adventure of a lifetime.

I hope to do this again next year.

Thanks again guys.

Jim

Posted by: Jim Fick on 7/2/2017 at 9:19 am

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Artesonraju: Elias & Team Delayed by Weather

June 30, 2017

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

Hello again from Artesonraju Base Camp. We delayed one day our departure to Paria North due to bad weather this morning. We are hoping to launch tomorrow morning, as the skies are clearing up as we speak. That's it for today folks! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team

Mt. Rainier: Okita, Dale & Teams Summit with Perfect Weather

June 30, 2017

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide Brent Okita called from the Mt. Rainier crater rim with the news, "We are on the summit on a Bluebird Day!" Clear skies, no wind, and views for miles- can't beat a summit like that. The teams spent an hour on top before starting their descent at 7:00 a.m.

Cayambe Express: Walter & Team Safe and Sound After Cayambe Summit

June 30, 2017

Posted by: Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

With a pre-midnight alpine start from the Cayambe climbing hut, we woke to a starry sky and light winds; all systems were go. We had a quick breakfast, got geared up in the hut, and were walking by midnight. The weather was perfect for our climb and so were the mountain conditions, with firm (but not icy) snow for efficient cramponing. The climbing was varied: rock scrambling to reach the glacier, gentle glaciated slopes, a steep 200’, 45° headwall, and a narrow summit ridge. Six hours later we were all standing on top of Cayambe, at 19,000’ that lies directly on the equator. We enjoyed great views of Cotopaxi, the Ilinizas and Antisana to the south, and Cotacachi and Imbabura to the north. We spent a half hour on top, high-fiving, hugging, taking pictures, and even singing. As we descended, winds increased and clouds were rising from the rain forest to the east. Soon a nasty-looking lenticular cloud formed over the summit. But our timing was perfect; we were well below this by now and smoothly descending back to the climbing hut. In less than an hour after arriving at the hut we were packed up and loaded into four-wheel drive vehicles and headed back to the hacienda Guachala for hot showers, delicious food, and comfy beds. Tomorrow we’ll head back to Quito for the night. RMI Guide Mike Walter

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Back to High Camp After Summit

June 30, 2017

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Pepper Dee, Gloria Roe

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

June 30, 2017 2:13 am PST After a thirteen-hour summit day, the crew is back at high camp safe and sound. The conditions were variable all day from sunny and calm to windy and snowing. We had to break trail both to and from Denali Pass. I am proud of the whole crew and the effort that they put in for a successful summit day! RMI Guide Mike Haugen P.S. Gloria says Happy Birthday to her dad!

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations Mike and team for a successful summit!!! It must feet amazing! Glad you made it back safely to High Camp. Praying for a continued safe trip down and some much needed rest! God Bless.

Posted by: Vicki Brown on 7/1/2017 at 6:01 am

my heart is beating for you all. Glo’s mom

Posted by: michelle on 6/30/2017 at 10:18 pm

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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Hold on at 14,000’ Camp

June 29, 2017

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Hannah McGowan, Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

The "moving up" picture wasn't all that clear this morning at 5 AM. Nor was it at 6 or 7 or 8 or 9. There was plenty of cloud about and some signs of wind on the ridges where we wanted to be. By the time the weather had improved, it was our judgement that we'd be getting into high camp at a later hour than we'd prefer. We traded the physical difficulty of moving up for the mental difficulty of sitting tight for one more day at 14 K. One more day of rest, one more day of acclimatization, one more day of anticipation. We managed it just fine. Ultimately the clouds closed in on 14,000' Camp and took away our views. We had sporadic radio contact with Mike Haugen's RMI team as they felt their way up through higher clouds toward Denali's summit. Tomorrow is our day to move! Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Artesonraju: Elias & Team Reach Base Camp

June 29, 2017

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

Elevation: 13,650'

Buenas tardes from Artesonraju Base Camp! We enjoyed a good rest day today. We fiddled with our gear, re-fitted crampons and practiced climbing anchor transitions. Good conversations were had at the dining tent too, all while enjoying the tea selection that our cook Emilio has brought, which we sweeten with the super natural honey from the bees of his next door neighbor. Rain has made a short appearance in the afternoon, but we look forward to start hiking up Paria North soon, our acclimatization peak, under sunny skies. That's it for now! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team

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Hope you get some good weather, looks like an awesome time.

Posted by: Chris Jano on 7/2/2017 at 4:03 am

Keep killing it up there old man, love you!

Posted by: Nate Milbourn on 7/1/2017 at 11:43 am

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Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Practice Patience at 17,000’ Camp

June 29, 2017

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Pepper Dee, Gloria Roe

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,000'

June 28, 2017 9:41 pm PST Today our team practiced arguably the most important skill in all of mountaineering: patience. After a blustery, snowy night up here at 17K, the mountain finally came out this morning, but the upper reaches were cloaked in spindrift, lenticular clouds, and all the hallmarks of high wind. So, we decided to opt for a rest day at high camp to wait for the weather to clear up. The signs are looking more promising for tomorrow, and we're all hoping Denali will give us a shot. Keep your fingers crossed for us for clear skies in the morning! Hugs from 17,000', RMI Guide Mike Haugen

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Excited for you Glo Roe! Can’t wait to hear all about it!
Love you!
Aunt Linda

Posted by: Linda Mills on 6/29/2017 at 9:51 pm

From the ends of the earth I call to you, I call as my heart grows faint; lead me to the rock that is higher than I.

Posted by: charles valentine on 6/29/2017 at 6:31 pm

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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Take a Rest Day at 14,000’ Camp

June 29, 2017

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Hannah McGowan, Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

June 28, 2017 We waited until the sun came around today to get out of the tents. That made breakfast a little more like brunch, but everybody was happy to wait for Avery's legendary blueberry pancakes. Weather high on Denali was unsettled, making us a little concerned for our friends at 17,000 who'd hoped to summit today, By midday things stabilized a little and we had a relaxing afternoon in mostly sunny and calm conditions. Hannah McGowan led a well attended high altitude yoga session for the restless. The rest of us rested and read. We're hoping for climbing weather tomorrow. Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Reach the Summit!

June 29, 2017

Posted by: Win Whittaker, Paul Rachele

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Win Whittaker and Paul Rachele lead their teams of ALA Climbers to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Win reported light winds, mild temperatures and an overall beautiful day. The teams began their descent from the crater rim shortly before 7 am. They will return to Camp Muir and then continue to Paradise. We look forward to celebrating with them at Rainier BaseCamp later today.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations Pat Doring and team! What a tremendous accomplishment!

Posted by: Maureen and Greg Beaton on 6/30/2017 at 6:53 am

Way to go Pat Doring. Congratulations to you and the whole team.

Posted by: Marybeth Casey on 6/30/2017 at 3:54 am

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Rainier: July 1st Update

Artesonraju: Elias & Team Delayed by Weather

Mt. Rainier: Okita, Dale & Teams Summit with Perfect Weather

Cayambe Express: Walter & Team Safe and Sound After Cayambe Summit

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Back to High Camp After Summit

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Hold on at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Artesonraju: Elias & Team Reach Base Camp

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Practice Patience at 17,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Take a Rest Day at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Reach the Summit!

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