Entries from Expedition Dispatches
June 24, 2017 10:07 pm PST
We continue to enjoy better weather than we have a right to expect. The forecasts keep calling for snow, and I'm sure it was snowing somewhere -we got about .5 inches overnight at 11,000 ft, but when we peered outside this morning it just looked like good climbing weather. We were out of there by 8 and up our now familiar hills, Motorcycle and Squirrel, we had no trouble getting to Windy Corner by noon and then we passed our cache (yesterday's high point) and made for 14,200 ft. We pulled in at 2:30 for a respectable 6.5-hour journey. There was a fine place for tents right alongside our pals on
Mike Haugen's RMI trip. The afternoon was spent as a lot of ours seem to be, building camp and melting snow for water. Except now we are doing it in the legendary Genet Basin with the West Buttress and
Denali's gigantic South Peak looming over us. We built a fine dining area (a giant pit in the snow with snow benches and snow tables and our dining tent capping it) and then tested it out with a team dinner. Tomorrow should be a relatively easy day, just dropping down the short distance to our cache and bringing it all home to 14.2.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Our Ecuador trip is up and running, and we spent our first day in country visiting the
Equator and an ethnographic museum where we learned about the various diverse cultures of the country and were able to simultaneously stand in both the northern and southern hemispheres. Afterwards, we travelled to southern Quito to visit the old town, or colonial area. Here we toured Independence Plaza, the Compania de Jesus church, and walked the streets of old town, learning about Ecuador’s history. After a fun, educational, and jam-packed day, we’ve got some down time before dinner. Tomorrow we’ll get up early and go on our first acclimatization hike up Rucu Pichincha, a 15,700 ft. volcano that towers over Quito.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
This morning we awoke to stars above and stars below (no clouds whatsoever), a welcome change from the pattern we've experienced in our time on the mountain thus far. A light but steady breeze at the level of our camp was telling of the wind we'd encounter up high, but we went with optimism. At 4 am we were cramponing above
Pastukhov Rocks, and the sunrise came quickly, illuminating dramatic Caucasus peaks we've yet to see on this trip.
By the traverse at 5000m we were in the wind for real. It came in waves. Sheets. Rapidly approaching freight trains threatening to knock you off your feet if you didn't acknowledge them with the brace position. Then it was fine for 30 seconds. Then another train. Snow blowing everywhere. Spindrift filling in the trail, and any open zipper, backpack, or jacket cuff.
Carrying skis on your back was another matter. Somewhat ridiculous feeling, climbing in the wind carrying sails. I think we made other climbers feel as if maybe they didn't have it so bad. At least in relative terms they were aerodynamic.
But it was warm. Slow going, but sunny and not as threatening of a situation as it may sound. Just some strong, annoying wind.
The wind took it easy on us for a short window of time that we stood on the summit. Much appreciated wind! The ski down was not effortless for the first few thousand feet - I'd describe it as typical high altitude ski mountaineering. You don't do it for the snow. More a game of dodging bare ice patches that aren't supposed to exist until August, and finding smooth ribs of sustrugi to rail slide. Maximizing efficient elevation loss. The aerodynamic climbers were all of a sudden jealous.
Then it got good. We hit the corn line around 14,500' and the skiing became fun. And all of a sudden we were back at camp.
Proud effort team - everyone brought it today. Not a casual
Elbrus ski ascent, but well earned.
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
On The Map
The
Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams, led by Christina Dale & Robby Young, reached the summit at 5:50 a.m. The guides reported calm winds and warm temperatures. After spending an hour on the summit and crossing the crater rim, the teams began their descent at 6:50 a.m.
Congratulations to today's summit climbers!
June 23, 2017 10:30 pm PST
Greetings from 14 Camp on
Denali!
Our team took advantage of stable weather and strong legs today to retrace our steps back up to 14,200 feet, this time with tents and sleeping bags in tow. We were excited to ascend the steeps of Motorcycle Hill and Squirrel Hill for the last time, and lucky for us, windy corner proved not so windy after all.
The rest of the day was devoted to digging in our new camp, which is looking dialed and styled. The team is looking forward to having some time to relax and adjust to the new altitude tomorrow, with a non-zero chance of Horiskey-style blueberry pancakes.
Ciao,
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
June 23, 2017 10:00 pm PST
It didn't seem terribly cold this morning at 5:30, Around 17 F or so, which made it a little easier to get up and rally for "the carry". We got out on the trail by a quarter to eight. Finally we were wearing crampons and holding ice axes like mountain climbers (to this point it has been snowshoes and ski poles). The track was in great condition -well packed snow- due to the large number of teams that have passed through since the last storm. We cruised up the steep Motorcycle Hill, and navigated the squirrely Squirrel Hill and found ourselves in the Polo Field below the end of the
West Buttress before the sun caught us. Another hour brought us to a decidedly calm Windy Corner. We slipped around the corner, getting great views of Foraker, Hunter and finally Denali, in the process. We cached food and fuel at 13,500 ft -our target for the day- and had an easy walk back down to camp at 11K with relatively empty packs. It was exhilarating to be out of the deep valley at last and to be crossing ridges and turning corners with all the big views. But it was also nice to get back to our camp and to have a calm afternoon to rest after our labors. We ate dinner and made preparations for our big move up to 14K tomorrow.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Acclimatization by Ski Doo is one advantage of having skis here on
Mt. Elbrus. For a little morning activity on our rest day, we caught a snowmobile ride to 15,000', and climbed up to 16,000' in steady winds. We actually had some visibility on our descent this time and were able to enjoy the turns a bit more than yesterday's whiteout run.
We spent the afternoon making preparations for an alpine start in the morning. If the forecast verifies, we'll have a nice clearing trend throughout the morning and hopefully summitable conditions. We're feeling psyched and ready.
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
June 22, 2017
Rope teams came and went in the early morning today, and we stayed comfy in bed. The guides were desperate for coffee by 8:30, but the sun and full breakfast didn't show up until after 9. Our rest day consisted of long, leisurely meals in the dining tent separated by naps and reading sessions. It was a fine and sunny day at 11K. We sorted loads for the carry tomorrow and
discussed climbing techniques. Each climber and guide prepared for the after-dinner poetry slam suggested by Anja. There were haikus and limericks, remembered verses and spontaneous rhymes... There was much laughter, some genuine applause and plenty of food for thought. And then there was the swirling cloud endless evening light show of Alaska. We're all excited to go climbing tomorrow.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
June 22, 2017
After having so much fun with our
cache mission up to 14,000 feet and back, the team decided they want to do it again tomorrow. This time we will be moving up to make a new camp at 14,200. We hope that the weather tomorrow will be as lovely as today.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
The
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team led by RMI Guide Kel Rossiter climbed to the summit of Mt. Rainier via the Kautz route this morning. The team has spent the week on the mountain training in various alpine climbing techniques. They will continue their training tomorrow before descending to Paradise in the late afternoon.
Congratulations to the Kautz team!
Hey Matt! Us here at Horter are following your progress, and enjoying the pics! Looks absolutely awesome! Best of luck!
Posted by: Jack Peters on 6/26/2017 at 1:53 pm
Following you all closely and wondering why you would want to spend time in the cold and snow!? However, I do know the answer. Mom Brennan
Posted by: Janet Brennan on 6/25/2017 at 6:07 pm
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