Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Just a quick one to say we made it to
St. Petersburg safe and sound this afternoon despite a few thunderstorms on arrival. A little bit of culture shock being back in the city after our time in the mountains but we're looking forward to a city dining experience this evening...
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
June 25, 2017
We must be doing something right to deserve this many days in a row with good weather! The team had a great day working our way up to cache gear, food, and fuel at
17,000 ft Camp. The ridge that leads up to high camp provides some incredible climbing and amazing views. A few of our climbers commented that it was the best climbing that they have ever done. The team did so great that we earned a rest day tomorrow before we position ourselves up at high camp the day after. Superstitiously, we all agreed not to take a shower as long as this good weather holds. This shouldn't be too tough to abide by as the nearest shower is a weeks walk away!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
The Four Day Summit Climb June 23 - 26, 2017 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning with cold temperatures and slight winds. RMI Guide Tyler Jones and team were on their descent by 7:15 am and returning to Camp Muir. The team will take a short break to eat and re-pack before continuing their descent to Paradise.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb team!
Greetings from Huaraz!
Do you like movies? Recognize the Paramount Pictures' logo? Well... that mountain exists, and we're off to climb it!!!
After a day of international traveling, and a night in Peru's capital, Lima, we drove north through the Pacific coastal desert, then through a section of Peruvian farmland where chili peppers are getting dried in the sun and finally, over the 14,000-foot pass of Conococha to arrive in Huaraz, the gateway of the "Callejon de Huaylas" Valley. This is where the
Cordillera Blanca Range extends for nearly 100 miles. We checked in to our hotel, and a clear evening provided a great view of the mountains to the Northeast form the terraces of our rooms in the Hotel Andino, an incredible facility, where after four years, we're part of the family now.
We're off to bed, excited for our acclimatization hike tomorrow. Stay tuned as we start our expedition.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team
We set out early this morning for our first acclimatization climb. The day started with a gondola ride from Quito to ~13,500’. Then the fun began. We headed west on a well-defined trail that followed a ridge on the shoulder of
Rucu Pichincha. As the hiking continued, the trail got steeper and the air didn’t get any thicker. After a couple hundred feet of rock scrambling we arrived at the summit of Rucu Pichincha (~15,700’). Views were sporadic as clouds moved in and out. When the views were there, though, they were stunning, looking down on Quito almost 7,000’ below. The weather was pleasant and we spent a decent amount of time relaxing up top. Then we retraced our steps and rode the gondola back to town. Now, back at our hotel, we’re cleaning up, resting, and packing for an early departure tomorrow to head north towards the town of Otovalo where we’ll tackle our second acclimatization hike, this time to an ancient volcano called Fuya Fuya.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Everyone slept great last night after a big day yesterday. Today's activities included a beautiful morning walk from the village of
Cheget to Azau, where we enjoyed a leisurely lunch at the Freeride Cafe. Afternoon horseback riding included an exciting river ford and a visit to the valley's mineral springs. This evening we celebrated our successful climb with Yuriy, our local Russian guide who's climbed
Mt. Elbrus "maybe 200 times...maybe 300. I've stopped counting many years ago." BBQ lamb, potato pancakes, Russian salads, and of course, vodka... tomorrow it's another alpine start as we head for St. Petersburg. All is great in Russia.
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
On The Map
Summit! With bluebird skies and lights winds, the summit climb teams reached the top of
Mt. Rainier. The teams, led by
Eric Frank and
Paul Rachele, began their descent from the Crater Rim just after 7AM.
We look forward to congratulating them here at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon.
June 24, 2017 10:36 pm PST
And today we rested. After our big move day yesterday we felt we deserved a day of kicking back and recovering. We made a point of emerging from our tents no earlier than 10 am and got the day started out right by consuming a mountain of pancakes. Kudos to Caleb for consuming the largest pancake of the morning! By 1 pm we were wrapping up the pancake party and as you may imagine, that long of a breakfast can really take it out of you .... So we rested a bit more. Once we felt we had properly digested we reviewed fixed line travel and running belays in preparation for our carry tomorrow. After practice for a few hours it was nearly time for dinner! Funny how time flies on a rest day. We had an early dinner of gourmet Ramen and before the sun could go down on us and give way to the chill of
14 Camp we headed to bed. Tomorrow we have our first go at the fixed lines!
Goodnight from 14!
Hasta Manana
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
June 24, 2017 10:07 pm PST
We continue to enjoy better weather than we have a right to expect. The forecasts keep calling for snow, and I'm sure it was snowing somewhere -we got about .5 inches overnight at 11,000 ft, but when we peered outside this morning it just looked like good climbing weather. We were out of there by 8 and up our now familiar hills, Motorcycle and Squirrel, we had no trouble getting to Windy Corner by noon and then we passed our cache (yesterday's high point) and made for 14,200 ft. We pulled in at 2:30 for a respectable 6.5-hour journey. There was a fine place for tents right alongside our pals on
Mike Haugen's RMI trip. The afternoon was spent as a lot of ours seem to be, building camp and melting snow for water. Except now we are doing it in the legendary Genet Basin with the West Buttress and
Denali's gigantic South Peak looming over us. We built a fine dining area (a giant pit in the snow with snow benches and snow tables and our dining tent capping it) and then tested it out with a team dinner. Tomorrow should be a relatively easy day, just dropping down the short distance to our cache and bringing it all home to 14.2.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Our Ecuador trip is up and running, and we spent our first day in country visiting the
Equator and an ethnographic museum where we learned about the various diverse cultures of the country and were able to simultaneously stand in both the northern and southern hemispheres. Afterwards, we travelled to southern Quito to visit the old town, or colonial area. Here we toured Independence Plaza, the Compania de Jesus church, and walked the streets of old town, learning about Ecuador’s history. After a fun, educational, and jam-packed day, we’ve got some down time before dinner. Tomorrow we’ll get up early and go on our first acclimatization hike up Rucu Pichincha, a 15,700 ft. volcano that towers over Quito.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Way to go, Jeff!!!
We are loving tracking your progress.
Posted by: T + A on 6/27/2017 at 5:58 am
We are keeping our fingers crossed that the weather holds for you to reach the summit. Lots and lots of luck and love! Dad and Mum
Posted by: Liz Bannister on 6/26/2017 at 10:39 pm
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