Hi from Huaraz,
Official Day 1 of the expedition started this morning with an excellent acclimatization hike to "Puca Ventana" some 1,800ft above town. Good weather and better views, made a great morning for the team. If any of us doubted the hike made the heart pump enough blood to start triggering the acclimatization process, we found a stopped car in need of a jump to start, so we proved to be good Samaritans, and give the guy a push.
Some delicacies afterwards and a gear check to make sure we got what we need starting tomorrow, and we called it a day. A relaxed evening packing and enjoying the local food and fantastic facility of our hotel, is taking us to bed excited to start the journey into the Ishinca Valley first thing in the morning.
Our next post will be via our satellite phone, untill we come out to go to Copa.
Best regards, and stay tuned!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
June 27, 2016 - 7:58 pm PT
We had another early morning departure to avoid the mid-day solar radiation that can wear a climber out much faster than the cold temperatures can. Our team did a fantastic job climbing up the steep fixed lines to the ridge and then up to our camp at 17,000'. We got into camp around 1:15 in the afternoon and proceeded to build a camp that would protect us from most any weather that Denali could throw at us. We are getting organized for a summit bid tomorrow if Denali allows. We are currently sitting in the clouds with a small amount of snow falling, but the forecast seems good for tomorrow. We will wake up and get the "nowcast" by looking up towards the summit and seeing what the mountain has to say about us climbing it.
Goodnight and wish us luck!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
Privet! We are up on the mountain and everyone is doing great. The seven of us are bunked in an 8'x8'x20' container at 12,500' elevation. We started the morning with coffee at the hotel along with the Elbrus Ski Team who are on their way to St. Petersburg today.
After breakfast we drove to the base of the big ski area here and loaded ask our duffels on three consecutive gondolas. Garabashi Hut is right at the top of the last gondola so we were able to drop duffels, grab lunch and head out for an acclimatization hike.
Yuri, the local guide, and I decided to try and shoot for a climb up 15,000' to speed up our acclimatization schedule as the weather forecast isn't looking great after tomorrow. Everyone did really well and we made great time up and down from 15k.
Tomorrow we are going to make a plan after checking the weather. We will ideally go over some ice axe safety techniques and go on another hike, but we will just have to see.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall and Team Elbrus
Way to go boys! Sounds like you’re doing great. If you have some down-time, have Keagy lead you in a few stanzas of “Lotties”. I know a guy whose name is Keagy…........
Best of luck on the summit and stay safe. Wish I could be there with you.
Hi from Huaraz!
The team united in the morning at our Lima Hotel, and shortly after, we jumped on our private bus, en route to Huaraz. From hours along the Pacific Coast, to the extensive land lots covered on drying chili peppers and corn, being baked by the sun, a visually stimulating drive greeted us as we started to go up the Conococha Pass. With 1 1/2 hours left of our bus drive, we got a first glimpse of the Cordillera Blanca, with Huascarán reigning amongst the clouds, and the Pastoruri Massif a mere stone throw from our "bladder emptying" stop in the 14K ft vicinity, right at dusk (yep, it's winter here, and it gets dark early).
We met Peter, our local outfitter and third guide completing the guide team. Dinner and bed time. All is great so far!!!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
The Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams, led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Zeb Blais, reached the top this morning. Winds were in the 10-15 mph range and beautiful, sunny skies. After spending some time on the summit, the teams began their descent at 7:00 a.m.
June 26, 2016 - 10:49 pm PT
Our team did an excellent job relaxing this day away. We continued our tradition of rest day brunch, and then dispersed for several hours of Uno playing, book reading, and 'nappacino' taking. There was a lingering feeling of excitement in the air- partially a celebratory vibe because of Pepper's birthday, partially an anticipatory tingle because our intention to move to high camp tomorrow will put us in striking distance of the summit. After today our bodies and minds are recharged for tomorrow's move up to 17K camp, and we will see what the mountain has for us there.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
June 26, 2016 - 9:54 pm PT
Hello,
Today we woke to our clearest morning yet, with stunning views down the Kahiltna Glacier and onward into the Talkeetna Valley. With a hot coffee and granola breakfast in our bellies, we were ready to turn the corner at Kahiltna Pass and head higher on the mountain. The entire team rocked the four-hour journey to 11,000-foot camp even with the continued burden of big sleds and packs.
After our tents were pitched we settled in for an afternoon siesta as the sun blazed above. By the time dinner was served things had changed as the clouds had built up around us and it was starting to snow. Now as we head to bed it seems to be coming down at a rate of 2ish inches per hour!
The plan for tomorrow is to break up the loads and carry some supplies and food to 14k. This will give us a taste of the crisp thin air of the high Alaska Range and help us in our acclimatization process.
We'll let you know how it goes!
RMI Guide Ben Liken
Michael Waters, your family is with you in spirit every step of the way. Stay safe and good luck. We know you will make it! We look forward eagerly to the daily blog of the progress of you and the team from Dave. Hugs, Nan
Posted by: Lynn Shannon on 6/27/2016 at 8:57 pm
Heritage Place is cheering and praying for you all and especially our Kathleen:)
It was worth the wait - the weather this morning was absolutely perfect and our whole team was able to ski from the true summit of Mt. Elbrus!
We woke up to brilliant stars and an impressive Big Dipper, and soon found ourselves being propelled uphill by snowcat to our starting point for the climb. Snow conditions on our ascent were a bit too frozen for skinning, so we put on boot crampons and threw our skis on our packs, moving efficiently up the well established climbing route. A long, ascending traverse brought us to the col between the east and west summits, a nice flat spot for a break.
Above the col we broke through the shadow line into the sun, and after a couple more hours, onto the summit plateau. 15 minutes later we were on top, enjoying spectacular views deep into the Republic of Georgia, and the impressive surrounding Caucasus Mountains. And then came the best part. A never-ending-feeling 6000' descent back to our camp. We had the full range of snow conditions on the way down; the last 2000' or so was pure hero snow - incredibly smooth, predictable, perfectly sun softened corn. Of all the teams climbing this morning we were the only skiers! Such an efficient way to travel in the mountains. Our team was back at camp hours before any other team.
After a few gondola rides down into the lush lowlands and a nice lunch, we're back in the village of Azau for a well earned celebration.
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
Our Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Tyler Jones & Paul Rachele reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams enjoyed clear skies and beautiful views from the top today. As of 7:30 am the teams were back to the top of Disappointment Cleaver on their descent. They will return to Camp Muir and then continue down to Paradise.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
June 26, 2016 - 12:13 am PT
Hey, this is Tyler Reid with the Elbrus Ski Team checking in from summit. We had an absolutely perfect morning, weather is incredible, temperatures are nice and warm, there is not a cloud in the sky and almost zero wind. So the sun is nicely softening our snow surface and we are actually going to be able to ski right off the summit which is not always possible on this mountain. So we are super psyched for our decent here the best part is yet to come and we'll check in when we get back to our camp safe and sound.
Alright, talk soon.
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
RMI Guide Tyler Reid calls in from the summit of Mt. Elbrus.
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Awesome job Mike, great pics. Great to be able to follow your progress. ODB rocks!
Posted by: graeme cooper on 6/28/2016 at 9:52 pm
Good luck Phil and Team El Siete. We are all counting on you. Kick Denali’s butt.
Posted by: E.L. on 6/28/2016 at 7:08 pm
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