Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Some people spend the day after Cinco de Mayo in bed nursing a hangover. We spent it by packing gear, trading street shoes for climbing boots and flying onto the
Kahiltna glacier. Our team arrived prepared and by 2 pm we were stomping out camp on the hill overlooking the airstrip. The team worked quickly and here we are ready for bed at 8 pm. Great weather today and great views of the surrounding peaks.
Tomorrow we will begin our skills training and fortify camp for some potential weather moving in.
RMI Guide Leon Davis & Team
May 6, 2017 11:34am PST
We had perfect weather yesterday that made for smooth flights from Talkeetna to the
Kahiltna Glacier in two of K2 Aviation's ski planes. After a couple of hours sorting gear and digging our Base Camp cache, we donned our backpacks and started pulling sleds en route to our first camp. Beautiful weather continued the entire day and we're now at 7800' at the base of "Ski Hill". After a solid night's rest, we have the stoves back up and rolling for breakfast. Our plan today is to carry a cache supplies (mostly food and fuel) up another couple thousand feet and then return back to this same camp tonight. We'll keep you posted on our progress.
RMI Mike Walter & Team
Thursday, May 4, 2017 7:20 pm PT
Well,
RMI's 2017 Denali season has officially started. Our team all assembled in Anchorage yesterday and we traveled north to the town of Talkeetna. Talkeetna is quite sleepy this time of year, but it'll be a different story in a few weeks when we return from our expedition. The town will be abuzz with tourists and climbers looking to see the majesty of the Alaska Range.
Today was spent at the K2 Aviation Hangar, meticulously preparing and packing our equipment for the next few weeks on the mountain. Tomorrow (weather permitting) we'll be flown on to the Kahiltna glacier by single engine airplanes to start our expedition. It's important that we have our gear dialed before we get dropped off in the middle of the Alaska Range.
Every one is stoked for the journey ahead of us. We know there will be a lot of hard work ahead of us, but it will certainly be rewarding.
Thanks for checking in. We'll be sending frequent updates, so be sure to check back soon. Hopefully our next dispatch will come from the beautiful austerity of the Alaska Range.
RMI Guides Mike Walter, Robby Young & Lucas Haaland
On The Map
Greetings from the Southeast Fork of
Kahiltna Glacier. We flew in a day ahead of schedule in anticipation of the weather that kept all flights grounded in Talkeetna yesterday. With the current snowy conditions for routes in the Ruth, we decided to switch our destination. Yesterday we scouted the approach to routes like Mini Moon Flower, and Bacon and Eggs, a route that despite its funny name, is a treat to alpine climbers. Today we're doing the same for the Southwest Ridge of Mt. Frances, another objective we consider. We're hoping to climb tonight on the western flanks of Mt. Hunter and the ridge that connects it to Kahiltna Queen, dominating the end of this cup de sac glacier.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
Our final morning has been perfect. Warm, sunny weather just right for a last morning of
training. Fixed rope work with ascenders, then an informative session learning about snow pits has topped off a wonderful week with a great team.
Now, for a pleasant descent to Paradise then on to the luxuries of living at sea level.
Though some have mentioned wanting to stay here another few days, I think we're all ready for a shower and some real food.
It's been fun!
RMI Guide Brent Okita
An attempt at the summit was not to be had given the avalanche conditions up high. So, instead we learned how to evaluate these conditions and deal with an avalanche rescue.
In the afternoon we worked on some ice climbing skills, lowering folks into a large crevasse so they could claw and fight their way out. Everyone did great, and nobody was left in the hole.
When we got back to
Camp Muir, the team was still excited to do more, so we worked on advanced cramponing technique and belaying. I think everyone was psyched with how the weather has finally settled out and granted us some blue sky and mild winds.
Tomorrow we address a few more skills, then head down to Basecamp in Ashford, and perhaps a beer and burger to celebrate a great week, and a fantastic crew.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
After learning the fundamentals of glacier travel and snow and ice climbing, we put our newly honed skills to good use as we climbed to 11,000' to check out the upper mountain.
Unfortunately, the weather came in fast and we had to beat a hasty retreat back to
Camp Muir. What a fun day!
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Our
seminar started out on Sunday with some rainy weather, but that sure didn't get in the way of a great day of technical training at our facilities in Ashford. We got all prepared to make our way to Camp Muir the following day.
On Monday we had to wait for the road to be plowed up to Paradise, but once we donned snowshoes at the trailhead it was all systems 'go'. Breaking trail through the new snow slowed our ascent some, but a windless day made the seven-hour hike bearable. The clouds even parted for the last half hour offering us a gorgeous view of the summit.
Folks were all pretty happy when we finally got horizontal, and were still in that position when I woke them up eleven hours later.
This morning we've been gifted a beautiful, sunny day with no wind. A rare thing at 10,000' on
Mt. Rainier in April. Everyone is psyched and doing well, ready for an exciting day of training.
This afternoon we plan on climbing to Ingraham Flats to explore the mountain some and get our feet wet on the lower flanks on our climbing route.
All for now from Camp Muir.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Hello again.
It was a nice warm day here on our final hike to
Lukla. We started early to beat the traffic and made good time, yet taking time to enjoy this peaceful and majestic place.
There were still dozens of loads headed for basecamp as always, because much of the needed supplies arrive via plane or from a few days further down hill via mules.
We ran into a few friends including one of RMI's finest guides
Mike Haugen, headed up for his second summit.
The entire team is doing well and relieved to be off of our feet for a bit. With a little luck we hope to be back in Kathmandu tomorrow morning.
Keep your fingers crossed for us.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and a happy crew
On The Map
Hello again everyone!
All is still well here in the Khumbu as the team members made our way back into
Namche. It was a super busy day on the trail with climbers, trekkers, yaks, and porters all bound uphill to basecamp. We slowly made our way through the maze of traffic and enjoyed one last good view of Everest.
Along the way we ran into several old friends from my past trips and stopped to wish everyone good luck.
Tomorrow we'll be moving out early on our final leg of the journey back to Lukla. So please keep you fingers crossed we have good weather and can make our flight back to Kathmandu the following morning.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
On The Map
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Mike, Thom, Todd and Dave—
Reflecting daily on your climb and remembering our adventure last year. Wishing you strength, good health and excellent weather during your climb. Eat! Get those calories! Stay strong. It’s is an outstanding achievement, give it your best and come home safe.
From Brussels, Belgium.
“DOK”
Posted by: Kevin on 5/7/2017 at 12:48 pm
Hi Todd, Thom, Dave and Mike.
Following your progress, climb strong and safe. Hope you have fantastic weather this year.
All the best
Rogan Davies
Posted by: Rogan Davies on 5/7/2017 at 8:53 am
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