Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt.McKinley: Haugen & Team Cache Above the Fixed Lines

June 22, 2015

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Pepper Dee

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 21, 2015 11:09pm PST Our alarms woke us up early to a beautifully clear, but cold, morning. We had breakfast and set out around 5 a.m. to cache some gear up higher on the mountain. The route above 14,000 camp becomes very steep and we use fixed lines the gain the West Buttress at 16,200'. When we got to the top of the fixed lines, our El Siete crew had not had enough. We decided to do some more climbing and bury our cache below a huge rock feature called Washburn's Thumb at 16,500 feet. Although we had to do some delicate passing of some upward teams on our way down, we made it back to camp in good time. We are taking a rest day tomorrow and then hopefully moving up to high camp the following day. That is all weather dependent of course! Mike Haugen and RMI Team 7 "El Siete"

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Thanks for your postings, it’s impressing what you achieve up there in that beautiful mountains. And Erlend; it was so nice to speak with you this morning, made my day and the rest of the time you are away.I called your mother and Lorents, they were so glad to hear that everything is OK with you,Fredrik and the whole team. Robin came today,he’s in good mood and I think he will be staying for some time :)Wish you the best for the days that are coming,you are all fighters up there it seems :) Love you E. Hugs and kisses, Hilde

Posted by: Hilde Hestflått on 6/22/2015 at 2:04 pm

It is amazing that you had the strength to continue even past the expected drop zone. You are mountain warriors for sure! Talked to Doug last night and it was so good to hear from him!! We are very excited for his adventure up Denali.

Posted by: Chris on 6/22/2015 at 1:10 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Celebrate Father’s Day at 11,200’

June 22, 2015

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

June 21, 2015 10:40pm PST Greetings on this fine Father's Day from Camp 3 at just over 11k'! Our team enjoyed a leisurely morning and a relatively quick and painless move up today with light loads and nice temps. After building camp we took advantage of the free afternoon to lounge around, snack, nap, play scrabble, dig a hole to bury a box, reposition some door knobs, moisten our fence wood, and general beveraging. Our gang is in great spirits and enjoyed our first evening hangout in the posh (cook tent) of the trip. Hoping for a continuation of the decent weather for tomorrow's back-carry down to 9,600' where we left our cache of supplies. We're also hoping that all of our fathers had a great Father's Day. Know that we're thinking about you up here! Wulp, that's all for now. RMI Guide Billy Nugent & Team

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Hi Art, was reading your diary from your 1991 climb. Hope you won’t encounter the weather and frostbite like that trip. My best to Charlie and the team.
Betty

Posted by: elizabeth williams on 6/23/2015 at 5:25 am

Moving strong team! Great job - hope all the Dad’s on the team enjoyed Father’s Day on Denali!

Doug - Continue to Dance on the Dragon’s Back…
“Not all men were meant to dance with dragons”
George R.R. Martin

~Belladonna

Posted by: Belladonna on 6/22/2015 at 10:55 am

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Mt. Rainier: June 22nd Summit

June 22, 2015

Posted by: JJ Justman

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide JJ Justman and the Four Day Summit Climb team reached Columbia Crest, the highest point on Mt. Rainier around 7 am this morning. The team is enjoying beautiful weather with 10mph winds. They will spend some time on the summit before beginning their descent to Camp Muir. The team will return to Ashford this afternoon. Congratulations climbers!

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Go Miki!!!! I can’t wait to see your pictures. You got this girl!!! Love you!

Posted by: Christine on 6/22/2015 at 10:28 am

Matthew, Aaron, & Stephen—Congratulations take many pictures and have a safe trip down. Love Dad

Posted by: Michael Brown on 6/22/2015 at 7:46 am

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Trip Complete

June 21, 2015

Posted by: Andrew Kiefer, Christina Dale, Jake Beren

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

June 21, 2015 2:37 pm PT Well the team has disbanded for more solo projects after an incredible climb of Denali. We worked hard together for a few weeks and were lucky enough to see that hard work pay off and stand on top together. I'm proud of the effort and camaraderie that made a successful trip for everyone. So much goes in to a good adventure and the main ingredient is the people who choose to undertake it. Thanks to everyone who offered up their loved ones for a few weeks while we tried to match an exceptional mountain. See you all soon and great job Team. RMI Guides Jake, Andrew and Christina

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Amazing Feat AJ! Congratulations again team! :)

-Priya

Posted by: Priya on 6/25/2015 at 10:23 am

Congratulations All! Bravely done, and looks like you had a stellar weather window for summit day. I look forward to hearing stories when you get back, Bill Dorn…

Posted by: Theron Shaw on 6/22/2015 at 10:14 am

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Ecuador Volcanoes: Walter and Team at Cayambe Hut

June 21, 2015

Posted by: Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 15,300'

We are up at the Cayambe climbers hut at around 15,300 ft. The weather is quite windy with alternating rain and snow showers. We're comfortable inside the hut. We have been going over knots and crevasse rescue systems. Hopefully the weather improves so we can head out on our summit bid with an early alpine start tonight. For now we're staying dry and warm inside the hut. We'll touch base again tomorrow to let you know how it goes. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climbs on the Summit!

June 21, 2015

Posted by: Casey Grom, Kel Rossiter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

Our Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Kel Rossiter reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning just before 7 am PT. Casey reported a little breeze and a cloud cap but overall good conditions. The teams spent an hour in the summit crater and began their descent just after 9 am. The teams will return to Camp Muir and then continue down to Paradise. Congratulations to today's Summit Climbers and Happy Father's Day!

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DR. GSD!!!

Posted by: Brian Andersen on 6/21/2015 at 6:19 pm

Wow Lauren! You did it again! Can’t wait to hear about your adventure!

Posted by: Grace on 6/21/2015 at 10:52 am

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen and Team Rest at 14,000’ Camp

June 21, 2015

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Pepper Dee

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

June 20, 2015 10:01 pm PT It started snowing when we went to bed last night and it did not stop until we woke up this morning. We have made such good time so far, so we decided to take a weather/rest day today. It turned out to be a great decision since it turned into a whiteout and began snowing again by midday. We made a half day out of making breakfast quesadillas and hanging out in the cook tent. I am not really sure where the rest of the day went! We are sitting in the sun as of dinner, so I expect we will be able execute our cache plan tomorrow. RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

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We love the blog updates! Happy Father’s Day to Matt Krull. We miss you buddy and we’re sure your family does as well. Keep up the great work and we look forward to seeing pictures of you on top of the highest mountain peak in North America!

Posted by: Scott & Scott on 6/22/2015 at 9:28 am

Sounds like it’s been smooth sailing so far! I’m giving updates all the time, thanks for the blog. No snow in the Midwest—hot first day of summer, and the corn is as tall as I am! Tell Brian I planted more, weeded the garden, and gave the critters all some love. You’ve got fans in Iowa, Texas, Hawaii, Japan—you are all in our thoughts. Judi

Posted by: Judi on 6/21/2015 at 7:00 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Move to 9,600’

June 21, 2015

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 9,600'

June 20, 2015 9:26 pm PT Woke up this morning... RMI GuideJake Beren was crouched in my vestibule! He happened to stop by our camp super early on his way to the airstrip to hand off some highly coveted coffee for our climbers. Thanks Jake! Soon thereafter we got up and fired the stoves ourselves. After breaking camp, the weather gods obliged us with comfortable walking temps and some cloud cover that gave us respite from the sun. Our team made short work of our move to Camp 2 at 9,600 feet, dispatching it in 3.5 stretches of walking. We enjoyed a lazy afternoon in the sun, keeping cool with sleeping bags draped over top of the tents, rehydrating and snacking until dinner. We are excited to leave the massive loads behind in a cache here which we will hopefully back-carry up to 11,000' in a couple days. RMI Guide Billy Nugent

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Kevin,
All your friends are here at the family BBQ, wish you were here buddy. WArren here, bet you wish you had Joe’s heated jacket right about now. I’m really sorry that you’re not drinking th beautiful Portugese red wine. And by the way, it’s not me… it’s Cole!HI Kevin, it’s Joe hahahahaha, not sure what to make of this but I saw Stacey and all yur staff at the pub today at lunch:) very nice I thought. Thanks for the round lol. Hi Kevin it’s Belinda Have to say that we are enjoying the warm gathering here…thinking of you in your subartic zone. We did drink one on your behalf though. Slainte mhath from the visiting teuchters! hi :) hope u enjoy the trip…albert and Duncan. All the best from the Flemings…we’re diving into Uncle Vals’ and the Pear Bottle!! Sven

Posted by: Fox Brae BBQ Gang on 6/22/2015 at 5:36 pm

Hope you had a great Father’s Day, Art. Love being able to follow your adventure. Say hi to Charlie for me.

Posted by: Bonnie Bair on 6/22/2015 at 8:08 am

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Ecuador Seminar: Walter & Team Visit the Otavalo Market

June 20, 2015

Posted by: Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

After a relaxing evening last night at the Hacienda Casa Sol, we are currently enjoying the world famous market in Otavalo. Otavalo is an indigenous kichwa town in the Andes highlands north of Quito. The Otavalos are known for their woolen woven goods, art, jewelry, and music. The market here is a sight to behold, with both native Otavalos and tourists shopping side by side. We're enjoying the morning roaming the streets and exploring the market. After lunch we'll drive up to the climbing hut on the volcano Cayambe. The hut sits above 15,000' at the toe of the crevassed glaciers of Cayambe. It will be our home for the next two nights as we train and prepare for our ascent of Cayambe. Cayambe is the third highest peak in Ecuador at nearly 19,000', and the highest point on earth through which the equator passes. The mountain is situated in the eastern ridge of the Andes and, as such, is influenced by weather rising up from the rainforest of Ecuador and the headwaters of the Amazon. Over millenia the snowfall on Cayambe has formed a massive network of glaciers that we hope to climb. We'll have our work cut out for us over the next few days on Cayambe. But for now we're enjoying the colorful culture of Ecuador. RMI Guide Mike Walter

Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Carry Heavy Loads in Good Stride

June 20, 2015

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 9,600'

Saturday June 20th 8:45 a.m. PT First day moving on Mount McKinley was a tremendous success. As a guide, I was impressed with our crew's ability to move smoothly and efficiently despite the very heavy loads and the cumbersome nature of the sled rigging and climbing rope. Usually it's a couple of days before a team will hit its stride like we did today. We enjoyed clear skies and perfect temperatures. For a moment we had considered moving onto the night schedule but a cool down glacier breeze and excellent snow coverage made for safe and comfortable travel during the day. We are all in great spirits, bonding as a team and enjoying our relatively new environs. More from our expedition as it develops. RMI Guide Billy Nugent

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Bonne Chance Marc et bonne aventure! On espère que ton voyage se passera bien et on attend ton retour sain et sauf.

Posted by: Yvan Champagne on 6/23/2015 at 1:26 pm

specktacularview of the mountain !

Posted by: mark and helen on 6/21/2015 at 4:56 am

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt.McKinley: Haugen & Team Cache Above the Fixed Lines

Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Celebrate Father’s Day at 11,200’

Mt. Rainier: June 22nd Summit

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Trip Complete

Ecuador Volcanoes: Walter and Team at Cayambe Hut

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climbs on the Summit!

Mt. McKinley: Haugen and Team Rest at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Move to 9,600’

Ecuador Seminar: Walter & Team Visit the Otavalo Market

Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Carry Heavy Loads in Good Stride

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