The Mt. Rainier Four Day Summit Climbs led by Dan Windham and Shaun Sears reached the summit this morning in bluebird conditions. The cloud layer was at 9,000’ and the summit temperature was 25 degrees with light winds. What a spectacular day on the upper mountain!
Walter Hailes is leading the Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise. They start out on the mountain today and will spend the next five days learning mountaineering skills and will conclude their week with a summit attempt.
It was a little tough waking up at 1 AM, since we hadn't been able to get to bed terribly early, but coffee and bagels got us going. Just as we'd hoped, it had been a clear night and the glacial surface had frozen up good and hard. Conditions were ideal for tackling the lower glacier. This section can be problematic since it is normally heavily crevassed in late season, but we found that the recent snowfall and overnight freeze had combined to bridge things nicely. We set out around 4:30 AM and made steady progress, first dropping a few hundred feet to reach the main glacier and then turning North while working up small hills and inclines. The packs were heavy and despite the fact that the fully loaded sleds were sliding easily along, we were all pretty thankful for the short rest breaks each hour. It was good hard work, but we didn't have much in the way of glitches or problems. The last two hours of our push were conducted in bright sunshine with a great view of Denali's south face. The West Buttress stood out clearly in relief. We pulled into our intended camp at 7,800 ft at about 9:15 AM and got to work. In no time, we had tents, a kitchen, a dining area, a latrine and the start of several significant naps. It was a day for power lounging and for catching up on hydration.
We rallied for a group dinner since Solveig Waterfall was serving up excellent burritos, but then the naps resumed.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Richard, Great progress - Non-stop to the top, Best Wishes.
Posted by: Ritesh on 7/3/2012 at 5:27 pm
Richard - we are keeping tabs on you and your team. What beauty of nature you must be viewing! Blackie and I are keeping good thoughts of you and look forward to sharing your climb stories. XOXOXOXO Genny
This is Mike checking in from high camp on Denali. The weather is playing games with us today, but the forecast remains excellent. We had contemplated a summit bid upon awakening, but a lenticular cloud cap kept alternately forming then dissipating throughout the morning, and we decided to hold off. It has been quite windy in camp, but high pressure is forecast to dominate the next several days. Our well rested team hopes to go for it tomorrow. All is well and we will be back in touch with an update tomorrow.
Wish us luck!
We’re awaiting the good news that you and the team have reached the summit. Hoping for sunny skies and a safe and successful climb to the top and back down.
Lynda and Rick
Posted by: Lynda and Rick on 7/1/2012 at 8:15 pm
David, we are pulling for down here in rainy portland. be safe and have fun. Sue D
Hey there Mark Tucker here with the Carstensz climb. I am not quite sure what of the amazing sites in front of me I should speak of when it comes to leading a Jungle tour. We round a corner here in this neck of the woods, I guess jungle. A gentleman appears with a big spear, a large bow, something sticking through his nose, and wearing only a gourd tends to get my attention. A wondrous place it is. It is like jungle gym, thank goodness for roots, I have a new a respect for them as a whole. We had an ascent on some very steep terrain. The team is climbing so strong and so well and the support we are getting from our local staff is wonderful.
We are now in Putigapa which is just a meadow swamp land at about 11,000’ and it is still very forested and we have yet to find the tree line. Mother Nature was kind to us again today we were able to get all of our gear, tents and dining area set up before the rains started. Right now it is raining pretty hard, we are all dry, but pretty happy. We are tired, but that just comes with the territory.
We wish you were all here and we will check in later.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker & Team
When your on that mountain, all you gotta do is give ahundred puhcent. You know me and my boyz dwade and chris all we do is get the rings. If you ever make a big desicion call me up (1-800-got-ring)
Posted by: Lebron (The King Who Got His Ring) James on 6/30/2012 at 8:54 pm
Hey Team!!!! Hope you all are not too worn out so far! You are in our prayers! Keep having fun p.s. Katie I hope you are not using as much chapstick as you did on kili or else you will be out by now….
Posted by: Billy (Bmeister) Mcgahan on 6/30/2012 at 8:49 pm
Our Four Day Summit Climb Teams Led by RMI Guides Mike Haugen and Gabriel Barral reached the top of Mt. Rainier today. The teams reported light winds, and favorable weather. The teams were able to spend some time on the summit and are now en route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's teams!
Mike Walter called and checked in on Friday night at about 9:50 p.m. There were some clouds and winds on the upper mountain so the team decided to take a rest day at 17,000' camp. They have had nice weather at camp and a good rest. Mike reported an awesome forecast for today with sunny skies and light winds, so they plan to make their summit attempt. The team is excited and ready to go.
Good Luck Team!
DZ and Team hope weather holds and you have an excellent summit, be safe. Remember Raindeer Sausage the Road House and Summit Burgers/Beers at the West Rib when back down in Talkeetna.
John V.
Posted by: John on 6/30/2012 at 12:49 pm
Glad to read the weather is co-operating for a summit
attempt. I’ve been keeping everyone updated here at MMC. Dr.P sends his best wishes to #1. Be safe.
We apologize to Mike and Nelson's family's for missing their hellos. Here they are saying hi to their followers.
Nelson: Mom, Dad, I'm having an absolute blast. I love it up here. Thank you so much for making this happen. I'm feeling great and getting excited for the imminent summit push. Tomorrow (weather permitting) we'll get to the top of the fixed lines and up onto the famed West Buttress. Long story short, I'm having a great time. Thank you so much. To everyone else who I told to follow the blog (probably a good 3 people or so) this place is way sweet. Wicked fun. Big Rik--you need to get up here sometime, it's fantastic. Lynn--of course I'm winning and writing lots. I'll have plenty of stories for you all. It's cold, fun, and badass. Love, Nels
Hi Susan, Mel, Hannah, family and friends! Thanks to everyone for your posts. Your thoughts mean so much. I'm having a great time, staying warm, and the guides make sure we eat very well. After being snowed in today, we'll hopefully move to high camp in the next few days where we stage our attempt for the summit. Miss you all! Love Mike
Been following the team’s progress—sounds like yet another awesome adventure! As promised—important news down here: Colorado continues to burn, Obama-“care” passed, and basically Repub’s and Dem’s still hate each other’s F’ing guts. Oh, almost forgot the most important news dominating the papers/internet: Tom Cruise and his wife are getting a divorce. Just goes to show you—we are still a bunch of collective idiots to care about that crap down here. So, PLEASE, march on! Live the dream for the rest of us shmucks! Be safe and know you’ve got your fans rooting for you—and, your entire team’s good fortunes. And, remember, Warrior II photo on top! And, take it easy on your team-mates up there—you CAN control that gas of yours—stop using the altitude as an excuse! Little Bro.
Posted by: Dan McLaughlin--aka, Little Bro on 7/1/2012 at 4:43 pm
Hey,
Oz is on his way to Georgia with the Barteks! I’m trying to stay out of the Raleigh heat—high today of 104! Boone sounds way better with a predicted high of 92.. Doing some work around the house and checking your weather and for updates..
Hope to hear from you soon!
Stephanie
What a difference a day makes. Things didn't seem a whole lot better, first thing this morning. Talkeetna was still a little dim and grey with low cloud lurking as we headed out to the airstrip. It took a few hours of waiting for things to come around. Our pilots figured out a clear path in to the Kahiltna, despite a fair amount of lingering clouds hiding the mountains. What we were able to see was stunning and spectacular, as if to make up for all that was hidden. Unbelievably steep and immense mountains began to pop up all around us as we entered the heart of the range. Glaciers, snow and random ice seemed to hang on every possible flank. The K2 pilots did their normal perfect approach and landing with the big ski equipped DeHaviland Otters. We'd taken off from town at 11:30 AM and we were unloading gear on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna 35 minutes later. At basecamp it was intensely sunny and warm with no wind whatsoever. The cloud cover evaporated and we were treated to grand views of Mount Hunter, Mount Foraker and even Denali on occasion. We built camp and began reviewing glacier travel techniques. There was plenty to get done and we worked throughout the afternoon and evening at divy-ing loads and getting rigged for an early morning move to camp at 7,800 ft. What we could see from the planes backed up what we've been hearing from other climbers... conditions on the lower glacier are excellent.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
This is the June 19th Denali expedition sending love from 14,000 foot camp. We received a foot of fresh snow last night distracting us from our scheduled plan of carrying loads to the top of the fixed lines at 16,200 feet. Because of this unexpected delay we are resting today fending off climbers soliciting food to lighten their loads for the descent.
We have decided to pass the phone to let each team member send a personal hey to friends and family.
This one goes out to my wife Birgen and son Liam. I have only tried to spoon Uchal twice thinking of you. He elbowed me both times. I miss you as much as ever and can' t wait to get home to you both.....
DG here. Miss and love you all. Doing great up here and everything is rock steady. Hugs Oz and see you soon. Can't wait for you to join me.
It's Chris. Special thanks to all of you who posted messages and words of encouragement on the blog. It means a lot and gives me some extra fuel for the push up the peak. Nickie - I love you so much and can't wait to see you again after a successful trip. Cheers!
This is Michael U. I hope all is well back home and abroad! I miss and love you all so much. O Sorry for leaving you to care for the new K-9. Grace, HB, Samer, Charlotte, Lulu, and the rest of the family - I can't wait to see you when I get home.
Greetings from JJ, amazing group of guys, amazing mounting and truly an experience of a lifetime to be here. Priorities change when life is stripped to the essentials. Peace, joy and love of friends and family take in a new and heightened priority. Please know I am very safe and that my love for you is growing with each step. I miss you all and have many big hugs in store for all upon my return, especially the new love of my life. See you at the wedding if not sooner. Love, John
Hello fam & friends--Tim here. It's hard to explain what the top of our continent looks like--truly amazing! Thx for all of your posts, luv sharing them in the "posh" (a funky community eating/gathering area). Great guides & climbing team, we're all looking up at the top now.
Love & miss you all--literally dreaming of you nightly--altitude makes for some strange dreams BTW.
Thx for covering me during cherry harvest & all the other "stuff." See you in a couple of weeks!!!
John, Great to hear all of you are doing fine. We are just home from the “small hills of NC” As we go along in life we do learn more of love, laughter and thankfulness. Blessings to all of you climbing. Jackie and Paul
Posted by: Jackie Winchell on 7/1/2012 at 9:39 pm
What no news fro you Nelson?? I know that you are having a trip of a lifetime. Check in next time the phone goes around. The moms in KC (that would be Mrs. G and me) are worried :-) Can’t wait to see you ... and the amazing photos. I would definitely be up for Killi next year. Lots of love, Mom
Posted by: Jennifer Collet on 6/30/2012 at 5:40 am
Hello there Mark Tucker here calling from the Carstensz Pyramid Expedition. Here in Ugimba spending quality time with Moni tribesmen. A Great welcome. This is where our lead local guide is from and it is pretty amazing as you can imagine. We were treated to quite a festival and a very formal traditional dance. This is the real deal, just like the pictures you would see in National Geographic. This is it, this is pure in the purest form. It has been one heck-of-a day, we are just smoked, the whole team is already bedded down and it is still pretty early.
We’ve probably got another 2 or 3 power days in the jungle where every step takes full concentration team is doing fantastic. I'm so impressed with efforts in there. They are adjusting to all of the incredibly challenging root climbs, there were a couple of small cliffs and moving the rivers having to build little bridges wading in rubber boots almost over the top, as a matter of fact, somebody may have actually had a full submersion. We are all doing pretty well, and WOW this place is amazing. It didn't really rain until about 4 o'clock, and then they turn on the spigot and it's full blast. We are happy where we are at.
I can't wait to show some pictures because this is just an incredible experience, and we hope to continue enjoying it. Big day tomorrow and we'll do our best to keep checking in. So for now it's called “Amakane” (ah-mah-kah-neh) it just keeps people smiling and it's the greatest greeting.
We will keep checking in, Amakane!
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
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Ryan;
Can’t wait to hear the stories and see the photos. What a great accomplishment!! Best regards, Clay
Posted by: Clay Renn on 7/2/2012 at 9:14 am
for Wendell & Jason…..good luck!
Posted by: brenda on 7/2/2012 at 5:35 am
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