Our Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by RMI Guides Win Whittaker and Eric Frank reached the top of Cathedral Gap today, but strong winds and heavy precipitation forced them to turn back. The teams have left Camp Muir and we expect the back at Ashford Basecamp in the early afternoon.
After a few snowy days at our 11K camp, we hoped for some kinder weather for our move to 14,000'. We all agree we got too much of a good thing. Yesterday's move validated the old mountaineering saying that "you either freeze or fry." Wednesday morning was clear, but quite cold at 11K. We ate our warm breakfast, anxiously awaiting the sun to warm our tents before we packed up to move. The cool morning climb up Motorcycle Hill quickly turned into a sweltering overly sunny slog through the Polo Fields and around Windy Corner which lacked the then desired wind of which it got its name. After refueling and rehydrating the well-oiled machine we pulled into camp 4 (14,000') at 5 pm. We were welcomed by our other RMI team, light snow, and many other climbers at this small makeshift alpine village.
Today (Thursday), we returned to Windy Corner to retrieve our cache of food and equipment in much of the same weather conditions as the day before. We are now resting back at 14,000' awaiting our possible carry up the fixed lines to 16,000' tomorrow.
To our many fans out there who are leaving messages on our blog, rest assured they have reached us!
Tuesday night over dinner we passed the iPhone around for all to read the kind words from friends and family. Keep them coming!
Until tomorrow,
RMI Guides Mike Uchal, Adam Knoff, Zeb Blais, and our team at 14,000'
Stay classy lower 48!
Hi to Mike R and fellow climbers. I am soo amazed by your courage, strength, and perseverance, you should be very proud of yourselves as I am of you Mike!I luv reading all the messages including the other teams as well, Its absolutely unimaginable to me, what you must be experiencing. Enjoy what you can. Thinking about you. Love Cheri
Posted by: Cheri on 6/29/2012 at 6:54 pm
Greetings John!
We are all so excited about your amazing adventure! Deann is on the phone with me right now and we are still talking about you! Enjoy your travels!
Good Evening, good evening from the Carstensz Pyramid team. We are at Gamagai Village and we have had an incredible day. We had a beautiful flight over the jungle, we were greeted in Sugapa by hundreds of people, friendly, welcoming, and we began our trek on jeeps, very fun. We rode for about 10 minutes and then began our jungle walk. Although we expected a lot of rain and there were clouds all around, it did not rain on us as we went through first couple of villages. It wasn’t until the last couple hours that we experienced the deluge of the jungle. We set up our tents once we got to Gamagai Village but we are not wet a bit, and the reason why is that they welcomed us to do some indoor camping at the local church.
We are enjoying a dinner of cheese and all kinds of good food. We are going to get ready for another big day tomorrow, a great fun day. We are looking forward to what the mountain has in store for us and we will catch up in a day or two.
All the Best,
Alex Van Steen, Mark Tucker and the first inaugural RMI Carstensz Pyramid Expedition team.
Our Four Day Summit Climb Led by RMI Guide Brent Okita reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The team experienced clear weather, but strong winds. They were able to spend a short amount of time on top and are now descending back to Camp Muir.
RMI Guide Andres Marin and the Expedition Skills Seminar – Kautz Team made a summit attempt this morning, but experienced much different conditions on the Kautz route and were forced to turn back due to strong winds. The team will spend the rest of their time on the mountain honing their mountaineering skills.
Congratulations to today's teams!
We've finished one of the more challenging days of any Denali climbing expedition... Packing, sorting gear and generally getting organized for leaving Talkeetna and getting on the mountain. It wasn't all hard work and suffering though, we certainly enjoyed a great breakfast at the Roadhouse. National Park Service personnel at the Talkeetna Ranger Station gave us a warm welcome and Joe Reichert delivered a fine and informative orientation slideshow. Our flight team out at K2 Aviation made us feel right at home in their hangar, which was where we got our food, tents, stoves, ropes, pots, shovels, fuel, snow saws, snow shoes, packs, ice axes, boots, crampons, sleeping bags, etc, etc, and etc. ready.
Finally, we'd earned a break and a relaxing dinner at The West Rib Pub. Folks then drifted home early for a last comfy night in the Talkeetna Motel. The plan is for the team to meet bright and early for breakfast and then to hustle on out to the airstrip... If all goes well and the weather is stable, we could be loading airplanes shortly after 8AM and then winging our way toward the Alaska Range.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
To my son Brian, Have a safe and happy climbing adventure! I am keeping you and the team in my daily prayers. (Inez read the blog to me, and it sounds like an exciting trip!)Love always, Mom
Posted by: Mom Bulatao on 6/30/2012 at 3:20 pm
Good Luck everyone!!
Tell Dr. Kelliher his A-Track students are sending him (and the whole team) love!
We will be tracking the journey
=)
Posted by: Jenni Lentenbrink on 6/28/2012 at 10:50 pm
We went to bed with clear skies and a forecast for 12-18" of snow overnight. The clear skies persisted overnight and we didn't get any new snow. There is a lenticular cloud on top of Denali today, indicating strong winds. We're also seeing snow blowing off of the West Buttress between the top of the fixed ropes and high camp. The current winds and the increased avalanche hazard from yesterday's foot of snow are keeping us at 14k for another day. The sunny weather at camp today is welcome, and is helping to keep our spirits high. It looks like some better weather is approaching for the weekend, and we're hoping we'll be able to take a crack at the summit then. With any luck, we'll be able to move to high camp tomorrow and be in position for the arrival of the more favorable weather. We'll keep you posted!
RMI Guide Mike Walter
6/26/2012 4:00 pm Hey Everybody it’s Billy calling to check in from the Jose Ribas Refugio here on Cotopaxi (16,000’ ft). We elected to head up the hut early so we could give ourselves a full night and a little bit better of a chance of getting to the top because the weather has been so poor. So we are going to get up in the middle of the night tonight and hopefully these winds will die down a bit and the lenticular clouds will clear. If the weather is not very good we will attempt a day climb. So we will check in again tomorrow and let you know how things played out.
6/27/2012 7:00 am Hey Gang, it's Billy again. I'm calling to let you know that we got up in the middle of the night last night and it was blowing pretty hard so we decided to wait until the morning to see if we could attempt a day climb. We got up around 6 and we had a big lenticular cloud and pretty steady wind of 40 mph here at the hut. It is blowing a pretty consistent 50 mph just above where we are at right now. We are back into a holding pattern. So tonight will be our last chance to go climbing. We will head out into it unless it is just absolutely insanely awful. So wish us luck. Hopefully the winds will have died down and we will have chance to get out and do some climbing. We will check in again to let you know how things went.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent checking in from Jose Ribas Refugio on Cotopaxi.
Our Four and Five Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Dan Windham and Casey Grom reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. They reported beautiful skies, but the weather was cold and a bit breezy. Both teams are en route to Camp Muir and we expect them back at Ashford Basecamp later this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's teams!
Congratulations little brother (Jon)!! You never cease to amaze me. One more thing off the bucket list. You rock!!
Posted by: cleep on 6/29/2012 at 8:26 am
Racheal we are so pround of you and we are all waiting for your return. we wanna hear all about it. we know you were gonna make it. Lots of love from your team in preadmit.
Hello from Timika, Indonesia!
It's Sara McGahan, I'm 17 years old, and you may remember me from 2011's Mt. Everest Expedition! I'm now climbing with RMI Carstensz Pyramid team.
Today was spent preparing for the expedition ahead of us. We have organized gear, shopped for food, and protected everything in waterproof sacks or trash bags. This climb seems so different from any others I've done; For most of our expedition we will be hiking through a hot, humid rainforest with expected rain showers almost hourly. We must plan that everything will get wet, but we are trying to do what we can to prevent it from getting completely soaked.
The culture here is also so different from anywhere else I've been in the world. There are many parts of West Papua which are still undiscovered. Some tribes have only been in contact with Westerners since the 1970's, and even now the people are still rooted in the customs and traditions of their ancestors. It is normal for some people to walk around with little to no clothing on, except perhaps for a grass skirt for the women and some shells for the men.
Personally, I am fascinated by the culture here and so excited to further experience it.
While it's easy to type this in a nice hotel with internet and buffet breakfasts, this seems like a one in a lifetime experience that I can't wait to begin. The terrain will be difficult both physically and mentally, but everyone in our team seems well prepared for the challenge and enthused for the adventure that awaits.
We are catching a 6 am flight tomorrow to Sugapa and then headed into the jungle. That's all from Timika!
Sara McGahan
Sara! I am so excited to follow your blog! I wish you and the team all the best :) Have fun! Can’t wait to hear all about it as you go!
Much Love,
The Girl Talk Team
Posted by: Maryashley Whitaker on 6/29/2012 at 7:10 am
Today is number six on the mountain and the first solely designated to rest. As discovered on day one of our long journey together, having fun is as necessary as being organized, fit and compatible.
This morning the gang was allowed to sleep until their natural alarm clock pulled them from dreams of family, beer and showers. Six inches of fresh snow blanketed our camp here at 11,000 feet so we were all pleased to be staying put. Once all gathered in our perfectly designed cook tent, two hours were killed flipping flap jacks and drinking coffee. Now we have moved on to lunch where singing every song to Michael Jackson's Thriller album has trumped all else. There is not an unhappy soul in the group. Mike would like to wish mamma and papa Uchal safe travels on their adventure to Russia and beyond.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
Singin MJ??? Has Gords schooled you all in the finer moves of the Thriller choreography?? When you run put of MJ Gords may treat you to some spot on GnR! Could make for a loooong rest day! Cheers everyone. The Reisers in N.Conway, NH
Posted by: Petah Reisah on 6/28/2012 at 6:54 am
Hi Michael, Hope you guys all enjoyed your day of rest. I am sure it was well deserved. Just wanted to tell you that your Dad is very jealous that you are surrounded by all that snow and cold :) Stay strong and safe. Love you. P.S. Jess says “HI”
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Bravo for a heroic attempt!! Next time!!! Can’t wait to have you home Chip!!
Posted by: Kristy Cerovac on 6/29/2012 at 1:36 pm
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