Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Cotopaxi Express: Nugent & Team Update

July 6, 2012

Posted by: Billy Nugent

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

The team made great time descending in near perfect snow conditions and watched the weather close in after summiting in what had been the most pleasant weather I have seen on the mountain. We lost one teammate before our summit attempt due to illness but everybody else's summit success is indebted to his superhuman cloud-bending abilities. After bailing out of the Refugio we hustled down to the van where Victor was waiting to whisk us away to Hosteria La Cienega. Cienega was apparently built sometime in the 1700's but for us it simply means a warm bed in a beautiful historic hotel with delicious meals. As far as mountaineering goes the Jose Ribas Hut is luxury but now that we are off the hill the team is really enjoying true luxury. After a fat meal, most of the gang has hit the hay trying to recuperate for a BIG celebratory dinner with the entire team tomorrow night in Quito. Buenos nachos, RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Mt. Elbrus: JJ and Team at Garabashi Hut

July 6, 2012

Posted by: JJ Justman

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside

Elevation: 12,000'

Hello from the Garabashi Hut on Mt. Elbrus (also known as the Barrels Hut). It was an exhausting day getting up here. First we took a gondola and when we got off we had to walk 175 feet to the next gondola. After our second ride we took a single chair chairlift and that dropped us off at the hut. It was a grueling effort to finally walk up to our private barrel but we are now situated all comfy and cozy. We had a great lunch and met our Executive Chef Albina who served up seafood salad, hot soup with crackers, cheese and salami. A surprise for me was to see Mariana, who cooked for us back in 2002. That year I brought some Peet's Coffee and a giant smile was on her face when I pulled out another bag of cafe goodness. The team went for a short but pleasant walk uphill to get our lungs working. Now it's time to relax, drink tea and eat more good food as life at 12,000 feet couldn't be any better. RMI Guide J.J. Justman

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Larry! You bet! Watch our summit video, it was a great day with a lot of fun climbing.Its nice not having to lug a giant pack around all the time. Maybe I will see you in Russia some day.

Keep Climbin’

Posted by: JJ on 7/11/2012 at 10:57 am

Do you do any climbing on this trip? This appears to be much different than Denali.

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 7/6/2012 at 10:45 am

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn and Team Move to 14 Camp

July 6, 2012

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Solveig Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

It wasn't a flawless day. There were plenty of clouds about, and it looked mean and nasty up high on the mountain, but it was certainly nice enough where we were. We left 11 camp at ten minutes past ten, ground on up motorcycle and squirrel hills in low gear and came out into the polo fields below the end of the West Buttress. Another good uphill walk took us past our cache point from the other day and into definitely-not-windy-corner. We went around the corner in perfect conditions, but all agreed it was pretty tough traversing the snowy side hill with a sled threatening to pull one off the track. It began to snow on us a bit, but by this point it was welcome as it kept us from overheating as we wound around, between and over the top of giant crevasses on the final hour into our destination. We pulled into camp at 14,200 ft at a few minutes past five, completing our biggest day yet. Temps were noticeably cooler up so high and there was a light breeze blowing through 14 camp, so we couldn't pause long enough to pat ourselves on the back or to gaze up in wonder at the West Buttress and the South Peak of Denali... we needed to get tents up and anchored down. We simultaneously got that done, a kitchen up and running to melt large quantities of snow (we were all parched), a dining area dug in and covered and a latrine in place. We are getting well practiced at high altitude, cold-camp construction. Just as we sat down for dinner at 8 PM, it was time to turn on a radio to catch the nightly forecast for mountain weather. It isn't a terribly stable outlook, but we do hope Adam Knoff's RMI team at 17,200 ft can hang in there and get lucky. Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Brian and team - hope everyone is feeling healthy and energized. Sounds like the days are definitely getting tougher and colder. Connor wakes up every morning and wants to look at the pictures on the blog, I think you may have a climbing partner for your next adventure. We love you and miss you.

Posted by: Robin, Tristan & Connor on 7/7/2012 at 5:30 am

Sounds like you had a long day and all did well. Continued patience and success. Inch by inch.
Enjoy and be safe.

Posted by: Carolyn on 7/6/2012 at 8:59 pm

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Cotopaxi Express: Team Reaches Summit!

July 6, 2012

Posted by: Billy Nugent

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 19,348'

Hey! It’s Billy giving you a call from the summit of Cotopaxi. We are on top in beautiful weather, sunny skies and calm winds and a very happy crew. Not much else to report. We are gearing up, getting some sunscreen on, getting some food and water and preparing for our descent back to the hut. We will give you a call when we are back to the hut safe and sound. Until then… chao, RMI Guide Billy Nugent

RMI Guide Billy Nugent calls from the summit of Cotopaxi!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations, Gail and team!! We are looking forward to seeing lots of pictures to go with your stories of this adventure! Stay safe and have fun!

Posted by: Laurie and Mark on 7/8/2012 at 5:30 pm

Congrats to the team on a successful trip! Kevin—I hope you had fantastic time!!! Please say hello to Victor and Freddie (if he’s along on this trip) for me. Safe travels back to Texas!

—Lauren

Posted by: Lauren on 7/8/2012 at 3:30 am

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Mt. Rainier: July 6th Summit!

July 6, 2012

Posted by: Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Jake Beren and Elias de Andres Martos led the Four Day Summit Climb teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The team was reaching the crater rim just before 8 a.m. PT. It is a beautiful, sunny day with light to moderate winds. The team will spend some time on top before starting their descent to Camp Muir. They will continue down to Paradise later this afternoon. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp later this afternoon. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Jerry, you are a force of nature. Congratulations to you and all on team. Remain an inspiration to us all Jerry bro.
Rodney

Posted by: Brother Rodney on 7/7/2012 at 11:42 pm

Congratulations to Volkan and and other team members.have a safe trip back. :)

Posted by: sebnem on 7/7/2012 at 3:42 am

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Cotopaxi Express: Nugent & Team Ready for Summit Bid

July 5, 2012

Posted by: Billy Nugent

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 16,000'

Hey everybody, it's Billy calling in with another dispatch here from the Jose Ribas Hut on Cotopaxi. We went out on the glacier today out and did some training. Got ourselves back up to speed with all the fun stuff in a typical climbing school: cramponing, ice axe arrest and basically getting used to working with our tips. The crew did really well despite the high elevation. We just had a great meal here, courtesy of the caretakers at the hut and we are going to be early. We are getting up in the middle of the night to take a crack at the summit. So right now I'm outside looking at nothing but stars. We are hoping this weather holds for us... We'll see what happens and we'll give you a call tomorrow and let everybody know what came of us. Signing off for now. RMI Guide Billy Nugent

RMI Guide Billy Nugent checks in from the Jose Ribas Hut on Cotopaxi

On The Map

Carstensz Pyramid: Summit!

July 5, 2012

Posted by: Alex Van Steen, Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Carstensz Pyramid

Elevation: 16,023'

Good morning, this is Alex Van Steen from the Carstensz Expedition. And my oh my, what a day we had yesterday. And here is the great word: RMI has summitted Carstensz Pyramid! We had a long day but everybody, despite being exhausted, did, really, really well. We all have a little bit of an altitude hack and the desire to head the other direction, but we are just loving this experience. I wish I could send photos via this dispatch, but they will be posted later. We've got lots of photos, and lots more stories. Stay tuned. Thanks, good-bye.

RMI Guide Alex Van Steen with the Carstensz summit news.

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Alex, I’m so proud of you!!! Good job. Love, your cousin-in-law!!! ;-)

Posted by: Lynnette Rutledge on 7/6/2012 at 7:53 pm

Hey guys!! So incredibly proud of all of you! To celebrate your achievements today, Sophie and Kasey slept til noon!!!!You guys are all amazing. Can’t wait to see the pics and hear the stories. Get home safe!

Posted by: Uncle Martin on 7/6/2012 at 4:51 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team As the Wind Blows

July 5, 2012

Posted by: Mike Uchal, Adam Knoff, Zeb Blais

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

This is the June 19th Denali Expedition welcoming you to the first episode, of the new hit saga, "As the Wind Blows." Time flies when you're having fun at 17,000 feet. We're now going on our third full day at high camp. We've determined that the forecast provided by the National Park Service, is reliable as a politician in an election year. Despite the gale force winds and frigid temperatures, the team remains positive. We pass the time eating junk food and sharing iPods as our batteries last. Zeb and Adam ventured to 19,000 feet yesterday to check snow stability and rock conditions after high winds and snowfall. The avalanche danger a concern. They've deemed the route safe, which now leaves the ball in the court of Mother Nature. 17,000 feet is a harsh waiting room, which increases the longing for family, friends, and the creature comforts of our homes. We invite you to wait with us lower 48 as we pass the time here at 17K. Stay tune for the next episode of, "As the Wind Blows." RMI Guide Mike Uchal

RMI Guide Mike Uchal with the First Episode of As the Wind Blows

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Nelson-

You are an inspiration! I cannot wait to hear about your big adventure. I’m really proud of you. Take good care and I’ll see you later this year.

Katie

Posted by: Katie Taylor on 7/6/2012 at 2:49 pm

Nelson,
We just found out what your doing this summer! We are following you everyday!
Be safe and strong! We are anxious for clear weather! I wrote to James today to tell him what your up to. He completed Air Assault and has checked into Camp Buckner!
He is looking forward to visiting you at college this year! We loved seeing all your adventure photos from last summer and are so impressed to find out what your doing this summer! Not many people in the world can even attempt what you are doing! Glad to know you and be part of your life!
Thinking of you,
The Kinsey Family

Posted by: Lori Kinsey on 7/6/2012 at 2:30 pm

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Mt. Elbrus: Justman and Team Hike Cheget Peak

July 5, 2012

Posted by: JJ Justman

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside

Elevation: 10.600'

Hi everyone this is JJ Justman for the Mount Elbrus expedition. Today we had a great day here on Cheget Peak. We had a great acclimatization hike on a very beautiful clear sunny day. We had fantastic views of Mount Elbrus and we topped out at 10,600 ft. We finished the hike with a wonderful lunch down in town après ski style. After a little rest and relaxation we went over our climbing gear and we are now officially ready to jump on the big hill tomorrow! RMI Guide JJ Justman & Team.

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Mt. Rainier: July 5th Update

July 5, 2012

Posted by: Walter Hailes

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 12,800'

Our Four Day Summit Climb team led by Dan Windham, and our Expedition Skills Seminar – Paradise led by Walter Hailes made it to 12,800’ but made the decision to turn back due to unstable snow conditions. The teams have left Camp Muir and we expect them back to Rainier Basecamp in the early afternoon.

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Cotopaxi Express: Nugent & Team Update

Mt. Elbrus: JJ and Team at Garabashi Hut

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Hahn and Team Move to 14 Camp

On The Map

Cotopaxi Express: Team Reaches Summit!

Mt. Rainier: July 6th Summit!

Cotopaxi Express: Nugent & Team Ready for Summit Bid

On The Map

Carstensz Pyramid: Summit!

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team As the Wind Blows

On The Map

Mt. Elbrus: Justman and Team Hike Cheget Peak

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: July 5th Update

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