Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team - Good Style to the Top and Back

June 16, 2012

Posted by: Eric Frank, Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Today was our time to shine; it was our 16th day on the glaciers of Denali and our opportunity to take a shot at the top of North America. Early sun on the tent at high camp, coupled with the solstice less than a week away had the guides up starting the stoves by 7:30am. With the winds moderate and temps near -15F we stalled our departure for the summit bid until 9:45am with the thought of summiting during Alaska's peak heat of late afternoon. The wind and cold had us in full equipment. We wore face masks, goggles, mittens and climbed in our heavy weight parkas a good portion of the climb. The guides stressed many times of the importance of self care and the critical nature of getting frostnip or frostbite. All of us had cold hands, feet, and faces a number of times throughout the day, but all of us took responsibility for keeping close eyes on each other and managed to keep the cold injuries at bay. The climb took our team 7 1/2 hours to reach the summit. Our time plan was perfect as the summit provided some the the lightest winds of the day allowing us to spend just over thirty minutes on the summit expressing emotion, embracing our team mates, and snapping photos of an unforgettable 360 degree view of central Alaska. Given the conditions our team made great time, though we all had to dig deep in our reserves to make an uneventful descent back in our high camp- 11 hours after our departure. Hot drinks, a warm meal and memories from our summit push ended the evening with high stoke and excitement to get down and reunite with our friend, families and loved ones. Every member of the team would like to thank all of you for your support, love, and compassion in letting us fulfill a dream. Tomorrow we plan to disassemble our high camp and move down the picturesque West Buttress. We will be recovering our cache at 14k and, if weather and energy allow, a descent to 11k for a well deserved rest in what now has become the low country. We look forward to the thick air. RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Eric Frank & Logan Randolph

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Congratulations Team!!! i know it must feel terrific to view 360 degrees from the summit! Can’t imagine the rush! Michael, we look forward to hearing all about it. Mom & Dad

Posted by: Eual/Paula Conditt on 6/17/2012 at 4:45 pm

I am super psyched for you guys. You kick ass Larry!

Posted by: Justin Halls on 6/17/2012 at 12:00 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Back Carry to 14K Camp

June 15, 2012

Posted by: Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Climbing consistently gives you opportunities to improve, especially on Denali. A summit day is possible only after weeks of getting in position. During those weeks we are dedicating ourselves to improving all aspects of our game. This morning we took the lessons of yesterday's approach to go pick up our cache at Windy Corner. Getting ready in the cold morning will pay off as we move higher. The crew did well on the back carry and the little bobbles in our rigging were addressed when we got back with everyone taking a little time to do some homework dialing in their cold weather systems. Tomorrow we will rest here at 14,000', reviewing fixed lines, running belays and if we have some visibility, taking a short cruise to THE EDGE OF THE WORLD for some views. Then it all depends on the weather, but the team is feeling great. RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Happy Fathers Day Jim! Hope you are having a fun adventure. Halsey: sunscreen!!! Give each other a hug for us. Love Anne and Jack

Posted by: Anne on 6/16/2012 at 11:36 pm

Ross and K,

Keep plugging away! Take some pics tomorrow at the edge of the world. Been thinking of you guys today, hope all is well with tent life and the elements. Try to keep everything dry! A dry hand is a happy hand. Your in the middle of it, enjoy the views. -Dave

Posted by: dave kolar on 6/16/2012 at 8:36 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team on the Move

June 15, 2012

Posted by: Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

Hello from the Kahiltna Glacier. We had beautiful weather yesterday and were able to fly in to Base Camp. Thanks to K2 Aviation and our turbine Otter pilots Jeff and Randy for a great flight. The weather was warm and sunny at base camp, and we took advantage of it by lounging around! (we needed to wait for the air and snow temperatures to cool down for safe and efficient travel conditions). By the time we left camp, at around 11pm, the conditions were perfect for walking, and stayed that way all the way to the base of Ski Hill at 7,800' where we made our camp at 4 a.m. Now we're enjoying bagel and cream cheese with smoked salmon for brunch. We're planning to continue with our nocturnal ways and move to 9500' tonight. Ciao for now, RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Have a great time and glad to know you are all ok! Matt we’re already celebrating here for you :)

Posted by: Vanessa & Daniel Elkins on 6/16/2012 at 9:56 pm

HAPPY FATHER’S DAY! Great webcam pics to watch the weather and know everyone is somewhere out there. Blessings to all!

Posted by: Betsy V on 6/16/2012 at 9:25 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team On Top!

June 15, 2012

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 20,320"

Hey everyone, It's Tyler and team on the summit of Denali. Pretty nice weather, little bit of breeze and quite a cold day. Everybody is in good shape. We are going to spend a few minutes on top taking some pictures and then we will be headed back down to high camp and we'll let you know when we get back. Thanks for all your support. Talk to you soon. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

RMI Guide Tyler Jones calls from the summit of Denali.

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Congratulations! Woot! Way to go! Wishing a safe descent to everyone!

Posted by: Jenn on 6/16/2012 at 7:12 am

Yay! Now come home!

Posted by: Megan Berge on 6/16/2012 at 7:09 am

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Situated at Ski Hill

June 15, 2012

Posted by: Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

We are on the Mountain! After landing at Basecamp our team loaded our sleds, grabbed our packs and we were on our way. We moved during the night to 7,800' on the Kahiltna Glacier, located at the base of Ski Hill. Everyone is doing well. The weather has been beautiful- nice and warm during the day and good travel conditions at night. RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Best of luck to your climbing crew. Look forward to your posts and pictures.

Posted by: Mike Morrissey on 6/17/2012 at 8:25 pm

WOW!I am impressed and envious Lee. Enjoy yourself and be safe. I look forward hearing your story when we run.

Posted by: Bill R on 6/17/2012 at 9:08 am

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Mt. Rainier: June 15th Update

June 15, 2012

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by Jason Thompson and Andres Marin made it to the Summit of Mt. Rainier today. The weather was clear with winds of 25-35 mph. The teams were able to spend some time on Columbia Crest enjoying the views, and are now en route to Camp Muir.

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Move Into 14K Camp

June 14, 2012

Posted by: Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Waking to perfect conditions, clear and near windless, we decided to saddle up and move on up to Genet Basin and make a new home at 14,000 feet. Our hard work yesterday really paid off, leaving us with a perfect trail to camp. It was even downright hot as we pulled into camp and we found a great camp left to us by our friends now living at 17,000 camp. Thanks. It was still tough, but our team held together well and turned in early for some much needed rest. Tomorrow we will most likely retrieve our cache and spend the afternoon relaxing and preparing for the fixed lines higher up. Cross your fingers for some high pressure. A week would be plenty. RMI Guide Jake Beren

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All the best for the head wall and beyond. Let us know that you’re all doing fine please.

Posted by: AK on 6/16/2012 at 3:53 pm

Great climbing everyone, keep it up. Bob, the summit is around the corner, stay strong! Everything good at home.

Posted by: John Spinks on 6/15/2012 at 8:11 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Ready for Summit Push

June 14, 2012

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

This morning provided blue bird skies and little to no wind. Though the air was cold at around -5F, the team broke camp, dug a cache and loaded our packs for our summit push. With Okita's team reaching the summit yesterday we once again shared the burden of equipment transportation by swapping some equipment to lighten the load. Okita's team saved some weight for their long descent to the bottom, and more importantly our load was lightened up to high camp. We are thankful for the established camp with wind walls and a ready to go kitchen. The stroke of luck rarely happens as teams do not often come up and down from high camp on the same day. As we have been saying throughout the entire trip "Patience pays" and today it most certainly did. Water boils at a fairly low temperature at this elevation. In fact, you can drink a hot cup of your favorite flavor right out of the boiling pot - a wild first for many team members. A hot dinner and soup re-energized our spirits and warmed our souls. The team is climbing strong and with a little more luck from the weather tomorrow we will make a push for the top of North America to Denali/Mount McKinley's summit at 20,320'. Wish us well for our final push! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Keep it tight and enjoy the views!
We are proud of you! M&T

Posted by: sHARON on 6/15/2012 at 5:44 pm

Nice work Tyler, Larry and all - I hope by now you are savoring the summit experience!
The summit is for the ego - the journey is for the soul. I’m hoping your egos are at a high point - be safe and enjoy as you complete the journey!

Posted by: Tim Halls on 6/15/2012 at 12:50 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Break Trail to Cache Supplies

June 14, 2012

Posted by: Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

After our rest day yesterday, we were certainly ready to bust a move this morning. Clear and cold conditions soon gave way to snow flurries and minimal visibility. We made ready, grabbed another cup of coffee and caught enough of a lull to try to carry loads higher on the mountain. Our plan was entirely dependent on conditions encountered on each stretch and despite being the first trailbreakers since the storm, we were able to kick a proud track through several feet of new snow up to Windy Corner and make our cache. Our team opened the route up in good style and if favored by workable weather will try to push it up to 14 Camp tomorrow. Everyone is doing great and will surely enjoy a good night's sleep after a solid day in the mountains. Thanks also for the messages to the team! Keep 'em coming! RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Jake, congrats to you and the team. Sounds like you are all doing well, with a great leader. Big Hug, Hello and best wishes to Karwande!!! Keep those fingers warm and battle on!!!! :) cs

Posted by: courtney on 6/14/2012 at 8:07 pm

¡Hola, equipo! Glad to hear things are going well and moving upwards.

Today I completed a successful mission to deliver homemade cookie to the folks at Muir (and got to try out the new skis!)

Stay strong and keep thinking happy thoughts…

Posted by: Bridget on 6/14/2012 at 7:31 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team are Packed and Ready

June 14, 2012

Posted by: Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 358'

Well, the gang's all here and we're ready to fly on to the Kahiltna Glacier to start our Denali expedition. We spent all day packing our gear and preparing for the trip, paying close attention to the finest details. We are all very excited to get on the mountain and start climbing! Hopefully the weather holds and we can fly tomorrow morning. We will update you on our progress as soon as we can. Stay tuned! RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Yay Sasha! You can do it!

Posted by: Claire on 6/15/2012 at 8:24 am

Sasha

We are watching the blog. Have a wonderful and safe trip. We are delighted that you have such awesome and competent companions.

Love Dad, Mom, Brooklyn, Spencer and Waldo

Posted by: Charles Selby on 6/15/2012 at 7:08 am

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team - Good Style to the Top and Back

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Back Carry to 14K Camp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team on the Move

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team On Top!

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Situated at Ski Hill

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: June 15th Update

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Move Into 14K Camp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Ready for Summit Push

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Break Trail to Cache Supplies

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team are Packed and Ready

On The Map

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