Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: JJ Justman
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
The Four Day Summit Climb turned at the traverse of the Cleaver (11,500') this morning. They were back at Muir and did some crevasse rescue training before descending to Paradise. The team is back in Ashford at Rainier Basecamp.
Posted by: Seth Waterfall, Adam Knoff
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
The Camp Muir Skills Seminar is back down off the mountain! We had hoped to give the summit one more shot but, as was our luck, the rain returned overnight. The mountain did clear at the mid elevations yesterday giving us hope but the weather fronts were stacked up end-to-end this week so we packed our things this morning and headed down.
Even though we weren't able to summit, Camp Muir provides an excellent high-altitude training site so we were able to train in the complex skills necessary to climb a glaciated peak. And so when the team parted ways everyone was psyched up for new adventures. One of the main things that makes a successful trip for me is if everyone returns as friends. This is no small feat with 15 climbers and 5 guides, but if this is our yardstick we definitely succeeded after our week at Muir.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
This morning we awoke to 6 to 8 inches of light fresh powder. We didn't allow this to stop our momentum. With calm winds and overcast skies we decided on a carry for today. We cached a portion of our gear at 10,000 feet with the intention of lightening our load when we move to 11,000 feet.
We are now back at our camp at 7,800 feet hiding from the sun, rehydrating and relaxing. For the past two days we have seen many climbing teams from all over the world. This trip of a lifetime is well underway and the team is climbing strong. As the winds pick up here at Camp 1, we are headed out to tighten up our camp and build some wind walls. Cheers for the team.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
On The Map
Hey, everybody it’s Billy.
I’m calling from 17,000’ where we are enjoying our third rest day or you could call them weather days. We have been sitting around in the clouds, it has been snowy and windy. We are hoping that this high pressure that is supposed to build this weekend over the mountain actually happens and we’ll get a chance to climb. Right now the team is hanging tight, chilling in their tent, every now and then getting out and working on the snow walls, trying to maintain sanity and waiting for this weather to lift so we can take a crack at the top. I’ll give you guys a call again tomorrow, let you know if anything new develops.
Take care,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
RMI Guide Billy Nugent checks in from 17,000 ft on Mt. McKinley.
On The Map
Posted by: Brent Okita, Leon Davis, Lindsay Mann
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Breakfast was early this morning as the night was fairly warm and if we were to make a carry we wanted to not be caught up in the sometimes crowded scene that happens on the fixed ropes later in the day. But a quick survey of how everyone was doing at breakfast confirmed our suspicion that the day would be better spent resting and fortifying our camp from windy, nasty weather that can happen at any time. After all, we'd been going strong for six days straight. So, we enjoyed a leisurely meal of western omelette, bacon and bagels, followed by some warm pop tarts. And the best part of the morning was when Roberto Pellegrino took over and started turning out some killer pancakes leftover from another days breakfast. The morning amounted to a relaxed time just enjoying each others company. But of course my mind is always spinning and after my third hot drink I thought it might be worthwhile to at least get some food up to our high camp, and perhaps even see our friends Billy, Geoff and Gilbert. So, off Lindsay and I went. It was her first time actually on the Buttress itself, and it made for a fun trip. And visiting with our other team at 17,200' was great too.
Tomorrow we plan on all climbing up the fixed ropes and on to the Buttress. How far we just don't know. But, we'll be sporting nice light packs, a very welcome change for us all.
We'll be in touch tomorrow night as long as we get back early enough.
Brent, Leon and Lindsay
On The Map
Way to go Elizabeth, Brandi, and the rest of your team. The photos are absolutely stunning. We miss you here but are glad you’re having a wonderful adventure!
Love, Victoria
Posted by: Victoria Bailey on 6/1/2012 at 1:20 pm
Doug and Audrey, we’ve enjoyed following your journey and wish you well. I hope you’re having a blast and enjoying a look at life “from the top”. Much love.
Mom/Sue
Posted by: Sue Rusch on 6/1/2012 at 10:02 am
Greetings from Camp Muir. We've had an interesting 24 hours weather wise. Last night we planned on waking up at 1 AM and heading for the summit, but when the alarm went off it was raining hard. We checked every hour from 1 to 6 am but the weather never relented so we called off our summit attempt.
We did make the best of the day though. In the morning we trained with our avalanche beacons practicing companion rescue. After lunch we set up a fixed ropes course with a rappel descent. The sun even poked out for a bit. We have one more night and we're still hoping for a shot at the summit but either way we'll be heading back home sometime tomorrow.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
Posted by: Brent Okita, Leon Davis, Lindsay Mann
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
What does normal feel like at 14,200'? Certainly not what it feels like at home. At least not at first. The headaches and weariness that some felt last night evaporated by morning and it was nice to see smiles on everyone's faces at breakfast. Yet still, we are not fully adjusted to the elevation. This becomes obvious when some normally easy things like shoveling snow or even walking to the 'bathroom' cause our respirations and pulse to surge a bit. But, it's getting better.
Today we retrieved our cache from 13,500' and did some training in preparation for the most challenging climbing yet. Becoming comfortable with the mechanical ascenders that we will use for protection while ascending the steeps of the fixed ropes leading to the West Buttress is critical for our safe and efficient ascent. Next, being proficient in dealing with running belays used for protection on our climb up the exposed and most beautiful ridge of the Buttress is essential. And I'm happy to say that everyone is well prepared for tomorrows climbing.
Good news from our friends, RMI 2, led by Billy Nugent, who are now at 17,200' camp, is that there are plenty of supplies at camp there, so our packs will be fairly light on our first foray up to 16,000' or 17,000'.
Our climbing tomorrow serves two purposes. We do need to get food and fuel up to our next camp. But more importantly, tomorrow will serve to heighten our acclimatization greatly, allowing our bodies to feel even more normal up here. And the more 'normal' we start feeling here at 14,200', the more prepared we will be for our eventual move to high camp at 17,200'.
But that's jumping ahead a little. For now we'll just concentrate on putting one foot in front of the other for a few hours and see if we can't get a cache in somewhere above us.
Goodnight from 14,200' camp where our expected low temp tonight will hover around 0 degrees.
RMI Guides Brent Okita, Leon Davis, and Lindsay Mann
On The Map
Good Luck boys!!! So wish I was there physically as its warmer with 3 in a tent but I am there in spirit!!
Posted by: Shoshana on 6/14/2012 at 6:49 pm
I’m so proud of you mom. Keep eating those sourpatch kids!
P.S I’m in computer class right now and Evelyn says hi!
Posted by: Sheena on 6/1/2012 at 11:39 am
Hey everybody back at home, this is Billy I am checking in from our high camp at 17,000'.
The team moved up yesterday. It was looking a little bit iffy weather wise but it looked like we were going to get a window. The weather cleared right up for us for our move and we moved right into high camp and set up shop. We were considering taking a shot at the summit today but winds returned and we opted to rest here at 17,000'. So everyone is snug in their sleeping bags, hanging out in the tent. Things are sunny here in camp right now but we had a fair bit of wind up on the ridge above Denali Pass that is going to keep us from going at least today. We are keeping our fingers crossed for tomorrow. We have enough supplies to last about a week up here. So we are hoping for a good weather window and the team should be able to get out there and punch the summit.
So we'll give you a call tomorrow and let you know what we are up to.
Take care,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
RMI Guide Billy Nugent checks in from 17000 on Mt. McKinley
On The Map
Howzit Elizabeth!
Hope you’re staying warm up there at 17,000’...fricken crazy man! Safe travels to you and the team
Dent & Jenny
Posted by: Dent & Jenny on 6/1/2012 at 2:31 pm
I just left a comment for the wrong team. Im in computer right now and Evelyn and I say hi. Don’t worry it’s freetime. Love you mom
Posted by: Sheena on 6/1/2012 at 11:43 am
This is Seth again checking in from Camp Muir. After a blustery and cold day yesterday we have been enjoying the warm and calm conditions today.
We began our day with breakfast at 7 and by 8:30 we were heading out onto the Cowlitz Glacier. We then found an awesome set of crevasses for practicing crevasse rescue. Everyone was able to alternately practice arresting a fallen climber, setting up a pulley system and descending into a crevasse. We also had a backup rope set up where we could practice belaying techniques.
After the rescue practice everyone was still feeling good so we lowered folks back into the crevasse and had them ice-climb back out.
It was a great day of training and with any luck tomorrow we'll do the real thing and climb the mountain. We'll check in again in the morning.
We are rooting for you Carlos! Hope you guys are having a blast. See you soon.
Posted by: Fungai and Brandy Tongoona on 5/31/2012 at 8:49 pm
I AM SURE EVERYONE WILL CELEBRATE A SUCCESSFUL CLIMB TOMORROW. HAVE SOMETHING EXTRA FOR ANDREW AS 6/1 IS HIS BIRTHDAY. WHAT A GREAT way to CELEBRATE!
Posted by: REEVES SMITH on 5/31/2012 at 7:30 pm
Hello! It’s Tyler,Eric and Logan checking in after a long day of work in Talkeetna.
Yesterday we had a sunny drive through the Alaskan scenery before arriving in Talkeetna in late evening. This completed a long day of travel from our various home bases to our soon to be new home on the “Great One”- Denali.
This morning the team met for breakfast at the Roadhouse Restaurant to officially start the program. After chatting about the day, we walked across the small town of Talkeetna to K2 Aviation. As planes took off and landed around us, the team spread out clothing and equipment in the airport hanger and consulted endless checklists. As we made our final gear selections, the hanger was buzzing with excitement.
After an afternoon break for pizza and salad, we all headed to the National Park Service headquarters for an orientation meeting. We chatted about the importance of keeping our impact low as we climb and live in the park for the next few weeks. After the orientation, we spent some time working on rigging sleds, setting up tents and building other skills.
At noon the hanger looked like a yard sale; clothing and gear scattered everywhere. By the time we left for dinner, all of our ducks were in a row. We now have duffels and packs neatly stacked in the front of the hanger. We are ready to go and eager to get on the glacier.
Have an AMAZING and AWESOME experience, Logan!!! Thinking of you and the rest of the team…. Can’t wait to follow the expedition!
Posted by: Lindsay Randolph on 6/16/2012 at 1:51 pm
have a great time
billy k
Posted by: billy and mary on 6/3/2012 at 4:04 pm
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Seth, Adam, Solveig, Thomas and Zeb were excellent guides and made the trip a worthwhile experience even though the weather did not cooperate for a summit bid. I look forward to other guided adventures with any one of these guides.
Thank you for a memorable trip.
Posted by: John Gallen on 6/4/2012 at 8:28 am
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