Entries from Expedition Dispatches
May 25, 2016 - 1:04 am PT
For the first time in several days, the skies were clear above and below us this morning. With those clear skies came COLD temps. We let the sun warm the tents and us, and then set our sights on the fixed lines for a light carry of personal gear. The sun kept it warm while we moved, but the temps stayed cold and we kept the breaks short as they quickly turned chilly. Our group moved really well, and with no other traffic around, we were quickly at the top of the lines, sitting on the
West Buttress proper. Our later departure, and light but cold winds convinced us to cache our loads there, and head back down. As has been the recent pattern, as we descended the winds above built, and soon evidence of strong winds was showing on the summit, and moving down to the Buttress as well. We were happy to be back in camp relaxing. The next weather system is forecasted to come in tonight and tomorrow, so we'll enjoy the comfort of our tents. At this point, we are watching for our window and are perfectly set up to go for the summit when the opportunity presents. That might mean a touch more waiting, but we are ok with that.
Best from 14,
RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Jess, and team
On The Map
May 24, 2016 - 10:15 pm PT
At 6:00am the guides were just wrestling with the thought of unzipping from warm cocoon of down that so wonderfully keeps the cold outside at bay. A cold front had come thru and the winds had picked up as well. At that hour we didn't know what to expect from the weather. Frost was sticking to the ceiling and walls of the tent, making any attempt to get up unpleasant. This was our first cold morning of the trip.
As it turned out, the sun had finally come out in all its glory, quite contrary to the forecast. For the first time the
Alaska range was out in all its glory. We had a great walk down to pick up our cache, and unlike yesterday, had some relatively light packs to shoulder. We were actually able to put a new cache in above us at 10,000', which will make our back carry in two days pretty easy.
Back at camp, with the tortellini dinner behind us, we're back in our down cocoons as the sun has dropped over the mountains to our west and a chill has returned to camp.
Tomorrow, 11,200' camp!
Cheers from the team at 9600'. We're all doing well.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
On The Map
The May 3rd Denali Expedition led by RMI Guides Mike Walter, Billy Haas and Blake Votilla made the difficult decision to end their waiting game at 14,000' on Denali and start their descent. On Monday they packed up camp and began heading for Kahiltna Base Camp. On Tuesday afternoon K2 Aviation was able to land on the glacier and load up the team. Mike checked in from Talkeetna yesterday afternoon. We are glad they are back safely and hope they all enjoyed their Denali adventure.
May, 23, 2016 - 10:05 p.m. PDT
Fully prepared for Denali Storm Daryl overnight, we were pleasantly surprised to enjoy a quiet night and an even more beautiful morning. While cold and calm here at 14 Camp this morning, the upper mountain continued to impress with strong winds and an impressive lenticular cloud covering the summit. Our sights turned from climbing and
caching, to rest and rejuvenation. We said goodbye to our friends Mike Walter and crew as they began their long descent back to civilization, and headed out to the famous "Edge of the World," a must see for any climber lucky enough to call 14 camp home. The views were 'out of this world,' as always, looking out over the cloud-filled lower Kahiltna Glacier, 7,000' below.
Quesadilla Supremes nourished our rested bodies this evening before the setting sun coaxed us back into the warmth of our tents. Tomorrow, our waiting game continues as we look toward a weather window that will allow us entrance to the upper slopes of the tallest mountain in North America.
Goodnight from RMI Guides Robby Young, Pete Van Deventer, and Jess Matthews and team.
On The Map
May 23, 2016 - 9:39 p.m. PDT
The fickle nature of the weather on the mountain lately was again evident as the wet snowfall of yesterday had passed leaving us with cooler temps and a bit better visibility. Today we even got some nice views of this wonderful part of the Alaska range. Our big challenge this morning was Ski Hill, our steepest hill yet. Leaving a cache of food and fuel buried at our camp here at 7,800', our loads were a little more reasonable today, but Ski Hill still proved to be a bear. Hips and shoulders certainly got worked today, but I'm excited that everyone was up to the task and we arrived at our next camp with plenty enough spare energy to build a good camp.
I'm continually impressed with the crew. Their tenacity during the tough stretches and enthusiasm upon reaching camp bodes well for our having a great trip.
Life is good at 9,600' Camp!
RMI Guides
Brent Okita,
Christina Dale, and
Chris Ebeling and the team
On The Map
The Mt. Rainier
Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Jake Beren and Geoff Schellens reached the summit crater around 7:45 a.m. Jake reported light winds and pleasant conditions. The teams spent about an hour on the summit before beginning their descent just after 9:00 a.m.
We look forward to seeing all of the climbers back in
Ashford later today.
May 22, 2016 - 11:34 p.m. PDT
We climbed out of the tents this morning hopeful that we would head uphill to cache. Though there was a cap on the summit, the ridge of the West Buttress looked doable. As we fired the stoves though that situation began to change as the cap lowered and the winds over the Buttress picked up. By the end of breakfast we had changed our minds and decided to stay put. That was further reinforced when a climbing ranger stopped by to let us know that
NOAA had called with a special weather advisory with high winds and snow. The rangers have taken to naming the storms; this one is Denali storm Daryl. We spent the day resting and hibernating in tents, though so far Daryl has been pretty gentle with us. Tomorrow sounds like it will be another rest day, but if we wake up to something unexpected, we'll rally and get our cache in.
Fra Tomas: Gratulerer med dagen Sinnekka! Jeg elsker deg, din Tomas.
Signing off,
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, and Robby Young, and team
On The Map
May 22, 2016 - 9:43 p.m. PDT
Our first day of climbing as a complete team went really well. Although clouds obscured our views of the incredible scenery around us, we had much better visibly than we had yesterday. Plus, our efforts yesterday lightened our loads just enough that today's climbing was quite manageable. Our
camp here at 7,800' is nice, but the snow that's been falling since we got here has made our kitchen/dining tent a most popular place. Our Posh House is always the center of community here; it's the place we can eat and share a hot drink or two and be out of the elements. The conversations that come out of that place...
With luck, we'll move camp to 9,600' tomorrow, but we sure would like some improvement in the weather! Everyone is doing great and looking forward to moving up the mountain. Hopefully we'll be talking from 9,600' tomorrow.
RMI Guides Brent Okita, Christina Dale, and Chris Ebeling and the crew
On The Map
May 22, 2016 - 4:02 pm PT
So things were looking pretty grim for flying out yesterday morning. We woke to more snow and a complete whiteout, keeping us locked in camp. We kept ourselves occupied with some games of trivial pursuit, stories and eating. As the day wore on a bit of sun shone thru the clouds and after dinner we heard the unmistakable drone of a DeHaviland Otter. Things were a blur after that. We broke camp in record time and moved our gear to the airstrip and loaded the planes before the weather moved back in. Once in the air we witnessed the skills that make these glacier pilots some of the best around. The clouds were heavy and thick all around us and once Patrick found a hole with some ground below, a few 360 degree diving turns put us under the cloud deck so he could navigate back to Talkeetna by sight, flying just a few hundred feet above the Alaskan tundra. So here we are back in town among the green trees and mosquitoes. A great time in the
Alaska range with a fantastic group of people!
RMI Guide Leon Davis
May 22, 2016 - 1:54 pm PT
Once again we're checking in from
14k on Denali. There is not much new to report here. The winds up high remain strong, and the National Weather Service has issued a special high wind warning for this storm.
We are all comfortable and safe at camp and we'll just have to see how this one plays out. Today is day 18 on the the mountain for our team, and high winds are forecast through at least Thursday. We'll keep you up to date with the latest news.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
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Well team u “got this” the summit is so close, man that slope looks like 38-40 degrees angle glad to hear the weather is on ur side rest up for the finally “Ooh Rah” say hello to our friend L R climb on and be safe. Best XO The Bolomey’s
Posted by: Joe&Patty; on 5/26/2016 at 3:10 am
Impressive feat to summit West Buttress during a break in the weather. Patrice tells me that Thursday through Sunday will bring favorable weather; so, maybe you’ll make good progress toward your goal of summiting. I am hoping and praying that you are successful because it’s occurred to me that another climb up Denali might be in your future if you don’t succeed this time. I couldn’t take the anxiety again.
Upwards and onwards!
Posted by: leanne on 5/25/2016 at 1:09 pm
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