Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Alaska Alpine Climb: Elias and Team Climb the Lost Marsupial

June 12, 2018

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska

Tuesday, June 12, 2018 - 2:08 PM PT Good evening! What a day we had... Another alpine objective tackled! We had some snow overnight, so we dragged our feet to see what the weather would do. It warmed up enough to melt the light snow from the rocks, so we decided to aim for a rock route. By 1pm we decided to head to the "Throne" one of the biggest formations in the Pika Glacier. We climbed the "Lost Marsupial" route, a long moderate route among the clouds, above some planes that brought tourist to the glacier, and into the evening (that's what we get to enjoy climbing in Alaska, 24h of daylight) a great pasta dinner followed our arrival to camp. After dinner, we went to bed right away, as we're planning an early departure for our next objective. Stay tuned! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

Leave a Comment For the Team

Mt. Rainier: Okita, Ebeling and Team Reach the Summit!

June 12, 2018

Posted by: Brent Okita, Chris Ebeling

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Five Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Chris Ebeling reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Brent reported clear skies and light winds of about 20 mph. The team will descent back to camp Muir for their final night on the mountain. Congratulations to today's team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

What an amazing accomplishment. Congratulations to the entire team. Way to go Gwen and Elizabeth!

Love from the Mathewson/Niehaus Family

Posted by: Lori Mathewson Niehaus on 6/12/2018 at 10:59 am

Congrats to Brent and his team - You led a trip last year when Andy Renner attempted Rainer and he and your colleagues will try again tomorrow (6/13) and I hope that you (literally!) paved the way for his group to make it all the way. Best wishes

Posted by: Stephanie Renner on 6/12/2018 at 10:03 am

View All Comments

Denali Expedition: King & Team Take Weather Day at 11,000’ Camp

June 11, 2018

Posted by: Mike King, JT Schmitt, Ben Ammon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,000'

Monday, June 11, 2018 - 5:35 PM PT Not much to report from 11,000' Camp. Today we woke to snow, after breakfast we were shoveling snow and about every two hours since there has been more snow to shovel. The one caveat is that the wind is light. The Team has been working on "out chilling the storm" as a long time RMI guide once put it. We are hopeful that the weather begins clearing tomorrow so we can put a cache in striking distance of 14 Camp. Everyone is healthy and warm. RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Alex,
After hunting around the RMI website we are 90% sure this is your expedition. Stay warm and tend to the small details: feet, hydration, etc… Best to the whole team- and Malin says you did this to yourself :)

Posted by: Matt & Malin on 6/12/2018 at 9:50 am

Scott, I’ve got my eye on you - and the summit! Keep your leg warm!
Love, Mom

Posted by: Connie Selgrath on 6/12/2018 at 8:29 am

View All Comments

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Weather the Storm at 14,000’ Camp

June 11, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Monday, June 11, 2018 - 3:42 PM PT We made it through a very snowy and windy night at 14,000' Camp and also made it through the coldest night we have had near -10F. The skies were clear and cold when we crawled out of the tent to nearly two feet of fresh snow. The team cleared the snow from the tents and shoveled the snow out of our snow block fortress. Then we had another amazing breakfast that started with coffee then hash browns, then blueberry pancakes, a Tyler Jones special. We then proceeded to have another round of hash browns and pancakes. This was obviously paired with a healthy serving of crispy bacon. The new snow along with the wind has most the camp relaxed and waiting till the winds up high on the mountain subside and give the new snow time to settle. The forecast is looking up later this week. We will be patient and out chill the wind and snow, then when the opportunity presents, we will make our move to High Camp. Till then we have a fierce game of Yahtzee in the cool tent and laps around camp to keep us busy. Cheers, RMI Guide Tyler Jones and team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Dave and Team Jones, the ice fortress looks pretty cool. Hopefully you guys get to move to new digs on higher ground soon (winter is coming after all).

Sending lots of love,
Your big sister and the family.

Posted by: Beth on 6/12/2018 at 11:31 pm

Nothing better than a good game of Yahtzee to pass the time! Can’t wait to see the pictures from the summit! Continued prayers for good weather and a safe climb! Big hugs to Nick from his Mom. XO

Posted by: Coeli Scott on 6/12/2018 at 7:45 pm

View All Comments

Alaska Alpine Climb: Elias and Team Summit Guard Tower

June 11, 2018

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska

Sunday, June 10, 2018 - 12:56 AM PT Good evening from the Pika Glacier! Another great day for the team. We started the day shortly after midnight, and headed to the "Guard Tower" formation, about one hour north of camp. Summiting during the permanently lit Alaskan night was special, despite the lack of cold temps we were hoping for in order to have better snow conditions. Back at camp before mid day, we had a good lunch and nap, and the afternoon found us ice climbing out of a nearby crevasse. We didn't seem to be affected by the long hours of activity today, and the conversations prevailed at the dining tent for a while. It seems that the weather is changing, so we'll see what tomorrow brings. RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team

Leave a Comment For the Team

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Rapping at 14,000’ Camp

June 11, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Sunday, June 10, 2018 - 9:04 PM PT To Fresh Prince of Bel-Air: Here is the story all about how We’re stuck at 14 with so much pow Just wait a little minute and sit right there And we’ll tell you all about these snow walls up in here. These walls are high, they are not low Like the saying goes, you reap what you sow. The storm’s a brewin, it does not matter It just means we make these walls fatter. Everyone’s spirits are high Despite this Denali blizzard Though we admit We’d rather sip on some sizzer...d Don’t you worry though Because when this passes We’ll be cruising up the pass the masses to the top I tell you loud and clear is our intent so don’t you fear. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Haha, nice rapping to make Will Smith jealous. It’s remarkable looking at you guys from the distance. I was thinking to myself:”This could be heaven or this could be hell. Welcome to the Hotel Denali. Such a lovely place.” Sweet dream, Lei, hanging there. Hao

Posted by: Hao on 6/11/2018 at 7:28 pm

To slim Jim and Paul what a dream your are experiencing let it soak in brother looking forward to seeing you both at the top.Keeping you all in my prayers Love Rob

Posted by: Bob on 6/11/2018 at 6:09 pm

View All Comments

Mt. Rainier: Five Day Summit Climbs Turned Due to Weather

June 11, 2018

Posted by: Jenny Konway, Jordan Cargill

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 11,200'

The Five Day Summit Climb June 7 - 11, 2018 made their summit attempt of Mt. Rainier this morning but were turned back at 11,200ft due to poor weather and route conditions. RMI Guides Jenny Konway and Jordan Cargill reported several inches of new snow at Ingraham Flats. The teams returned safely to Camp Muir and will descend to Paradise later this morning.

Leave a Comment For the Team

Denali Expedition: King & Team Back Carry and Return to 11K Camp

June 10, 2018

Posted by: Mike King, JT Schmitt, Ben Ammon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Sunday, June 10, 2018 - 3:08 pm PT Clouds and snow moved in last night just prior to dinner. We had the chance to see our 2 RMI Teams who had been on the summit Friday and get some route info. The snow continued through out the night with minimal accumulation. When we woke, there were faint views of the surrounding peaks and ridges. After breakfast we roped up and walked down to our cache at 9700' and dug up our food and supplies. There has been a low pressure system moving in from the North and being near the demarcation line was quite stunning. As we turned the corner onto the Kahiltna Glacier, we could see clouds rolling over Kahiltna Pass and Kahiltna Dome while the view South was blue skies and calm weather. Soon we were engulfed in the clouds and light snow for the walk back to 11,000' Camp. Now we are back in our tents listening to snow fall and enjoying the warmth of the sun trying to cook through the clouds. The Team is doing well, we are hopeful that the winds stay calm so we can carry around Windy Corner or even into Fourteen Camp tomorrow. RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great job everyone and hi dad (David McCampbell)! Keep up the great work. Loving these updates!
-Patti

Posted by: Patti Van Lange on 6/10/2018 at 9:56 pm

Hi JT-

My dad and I had a JT Type 2 day of fun just for you.. Sixty-two miles in the pouring rain. We hope you are enjoying your time up there! The pictures are beautiful! Sending big hugs from the Emmer family!

Maddy

Posted by: Madeline Emmer on 6/10/2018 at 8:38 pm

View All Comments

Alaska Alpine Climbing: Elias & Team Traverse the Pika Glacier

June 10, 2018

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar

Saturday, June 9, 2018 - 9:26 PM PT Good afternoon again from Little Swiss! We had a great second day on the ice, reviewing more skills, and getting ready for our first climbing objective tonight. We ventured to the top edge of this Pika Glacier, overlooking the tundra, and spent quite some time getting familiar with the transitions and rope work on snow, as well as checking potential routes for later in the program. We have switched to a night schedule, so we can move efficiently during the coldest hours of the day, as it has been scorching hot here. We are waking up shortly after midnight, and heading down glacier for a mixed steep snow-rock climb. Stay tuned for more! RMI Guide Elías de Andrés Martos

Leave a Comment For the Team

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Descend

June 10, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Saturday, June 9, 2018 - 11:13 PM PT After a late night making dinner and filling water bottles, we were content to sleep in a bit until the sun hit the tents and made things a bit warmer. With packs full, we rallied back along the West Buttress, beating the oncoming traffic to the fixed lines. We rendezvoused with Tyler Jones's team at 14,000', where they were so kind as to hook us up with water and high fives, then we kept the train rolling down to 11, where Mike King's team let us use their kitchen tent and had already dug up our cache for us. We're going to sleep a few hours here, then wake up in the (not) dark (it's Alaska in the summer time) to walk the last piece to base camp, aiming to be there for first flights in the morning. Keeping our fingers crossed for flyable weather and a cold IPA before noon! RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

So looking forward to seeing you! And hearing all the stories! Save journey down and off to Talkeetna! I’m in dunker training all Monday, so I’ll see you in in evening! Love you!

Posted by: Kathy on 6/10/2018 at 11:37 am

So happy to hear your news of the day! Looking forward to hearing you are down safely!

Posted by: Ken and Beckie Ruggles on 6/10/2018 at 9:16 am

View All Comments

Previous Page Next Page

Check Availability

Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Alaska Alpine Climb: Elias and Team Climb the Lost Marsupial

Mt. Rainier: Okita, Ebeling and Team Reach the Summit!

Denali Expedition: King & Team Take Weather Day at 11,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Weather the Storm at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Alaska Alpine Climb: Elias and Team Summit Guard Tower

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Rapping at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Five Day Summit Climbs Turned Due to Weather

Denali Expedition: King & Team Back Carry and Return to 11K Camp

On The Map

Alaska Alpine Climbing: Elias & Team Traverse the Pika Glacier

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Descend

On The Map

Contact Us

Privacy Policy

Translate

Log In

Register With Us

Check Availability

Entries from Expedition Dispatches

On The Map

On The Map

On The Map

On The Map

On The Map

New Post Alerts:Expedition Dispatches

New Post Alerts:
Expedition Dispatches