Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Cache Gear At 14,000’ Camp

June 5, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,000'

Monday, June 4, 2018 - 10:00 PM PT The gang awoke to a clear, crisp morning on the day of our carry to 14, 000' Camp. The group was raring to go and many could hardly sit still. Whether it was excitement or to keep the cold at bay was difficult to tell. Today would be the first day of climbing, when the group would strap on crampons and walk with an ice ax in their hand. This would be made even more difficult by the ever thinning air as we gain more than 3,000' of elevation on our way to 14,000' Camp. However, this group of climbers, after tackling the approach into 11,000' with professional style, would not be phased by things as trivial as thin air, heavy packs, and the guides incessant reminders to rest step and pressure breath. Right out of camp the climbing hits you head on with a steep slope known as Motorcycle Hill. Lucky for us the snow had been packed down and our crampons with their many points allowed us to send motorcycle with ease. At the top of our first obstacle we were treated to views of the Peters Glacier as well as the Father and Sons wall, an impressive alpine face of granite and blue ice. Further in the distance the wilderness of the Alaskan tundra stretched far beyond the limitations of the human eye. The scale out here is truly impressive. Reinvigorated by the views, the climbers were ready to scamper up squirrel hill and charge across the polo fields straight to Windy Corner. Again luck was on our side as the often ferocious Windy Corner would not live up to its name on this day. With the bulk of the hard climbing behind us, only one hill remained between us and our cache site at 14,000'. In the style that us guides have come to expect from our climbers they crushed the last hill and strolled into 14,000' Camp with ample energy. Friends and other climbers from RMI groups ahead of us treated us with smiles and a much needed water refill as we dumped our gear in our cache and prepped for our return to our Camp at 11,000'. The day was only half over. With water and snacks in our bellies we turned our boots down hill hoping to make it back to the safety and comfort of our tents before the snow turned to mush and the sun baked our minds. The climbers of the Jones expedition once again did not disappoint as all members of our group made it safely back to camp in time for lunch and well earned nap.Tomorrow will be another big day if the weathers on our side? RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika and Nick Scott

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David and the rest of the team,

We had dinner last night with Lou Whittaker and his wife Ingrid. He turns 90 soon, but is still going strong. An inspiration.

He told us a rather harrowing tale of his Mt. McKinley (Denali) ascent with his twin brother Jim, Pete Schoening, and John (?) . The good news is that you are in great hands and being much more careful than they were. The most important take away advice I got from his tale is ‘don’t fall.’

We raised a toast to all of you. Much love. Take care.

Posted by: Linda Glein on 6/5/2018 at 4:07 pm

Thank you for the posts and pictures - excellent! The camp times must be as enjoyable as the climb judging from the pictures / views. Enjoy!

Posted by: Matt H's Parents on 6/5/2018 at 9:31 am

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Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Make Summit Attempt, Turn back due to Winds

June 5, 2018

Posted by: Mike Walter, Robby Young, Alan Davis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,000'

Monday, June 4, 2018 - 9:27 PM PT We woke to mostly clear skies, with some visible wind above us. With very cold temps we waited a little to let it warm up and to see if the winds abated. Temps did warm but the winds remain...not atrociously strong, but something to keep an eye on. Leaving camp at 10:00, along with about 100 of our best climbing buddies, we headed up the "Autobahn" towards Denali Pass. The temps were cold and winds made it chillier. By the time we reached Denali Pass and turned the corner, the winds were in our face, colder and stronger than before. We pressed on, in the hopes that the winds would decrease. But as we gained more altitude, the winds kept increasing and getting colder; it was challenging to stay warm--especially our hands, toes, and fingers. So we turned around at the top of Zebra Rocks (~18,800') and headed back to High Camp. We climbed for seven hours and got back to our tents cold and tired. We'll check the weather forecast to see what our next move will be. Hopefully we will get another chance to go for the top. RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Champion effort! May you be well rested for another summit run and may she,the Mountain,help make it so. Many Blessings, Hujo and Katie.

Posted by: HUGH DE PENTHENY O KELLY on 6/6/2018 at 9:08 am

You fellas have fun up there. Maybe have Robby eat some more torts and ride him to the top like a rocket ship…. I don’t know, maybe??? Just think about the 8 cases of beer buried at base camp!

Posted by: Todd Hayes on 6/5/2018 at 8:28 pm

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Denali Expedition: Hailes & Team Carry Up the Fixed Lines

June 4, 2018

Posted by: Walter Hailes, JM Gorum

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Monday, June 4, 2018 - 7:41 pm PT BEST DAY YET! It finally feels like we are out climbing, not just on a long walk uphill dragging sleds. We started the day with some blueberry pancakes and bacon. It left our mountain kitchen messy but was a tasty way to start the day. Then we got all geared up with our ascenders. Ropes and packs and headed up the headwall right out of camp. The high temperature is about 5 degrees F, but in the sunshine we are climbing in a single layer and loving it. We will take another scheduled rest day tomorrow in prep to head to the summit as soon as the weather allows. Best wishes to all our family and friends, we miss you all. RMI Guide Walter Hailes

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You are all such an inspiration! Beautiful photos - amazing people. You got this!

Posted by: Susan Dickson on 6/6/2018 at 3:33 pm

Brett, I assume it was the bacon for breakfast that sealed the deal, not the thrill of the climb or these incredible views!! Wow…those views! Hope you’re enjoying this once in a lifetime experience. We’re all thinking of you. Dan, Audrey, Matthew and Sydney

Posted by: Dan Melanson on 6/5/2018 at 5:11 pm

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Bolivia: Frank & Team Resting in La Paz

June 4, 2018

Posted by: Eric Frank, Andy Bond

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Bolivia

Elevation: 11,942'

Like all good mountaineers, it’s okay to be lazy. Two summits in three days, our group enjoyed a much deserved rest day in La Paz. We shopped, we ate and we slept as we get ready for our third and final peak Illimani. The rest day also came at great time, as it was a rainy day in La Paz bringing a fresh coat of snow to the mountains. We’ll enjoy a nice dinner tonight before heading back into the mountains tomorrow! RMI Guide Andy Bond

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Reach Summit

June 4, 2018

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Zeb Blais

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb June 1 - 4, 2018 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. RMI Guides Mike Haugen and Zeb Blais led the teams and reported high winds at Camp Muir overnight that decreased enough for them to make their attempt. They reported good weather with increasing winds as they reached the upper mountain. The teams will return to Camp Muir and then continue down to Paradise. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Yes!!!!! Fantastic!

Posted by: Lisa Koch on 6/4/2018 at 8:24 pm

Great job ty. We are proud of you and the team. You accomplished a great fear

Posted by: Kathie and joel gardella on 6/4/2018 at 5:16 pm

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Denali Expedition: Hailes and Team Back Carry from 14,000’ Camp

June 4, 2018

Posted by: Walter Hailes, JM Gorum

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Another beautiful day on Denali for the team. I think most folks woke up around 7 or 8 this morning, but we all rolled around in our sleeping bags for a while until the sun hit us at almost exactly 9:30. No sense in being cold if we don't have to. After the sun warmed our tents, we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast, and some more limitless views. As we walked downhill to dig up our cache, Mounts Foraker and Hunter dominated the skyline while valley glaciers spilled farther than we could see. The team wasted no time retrieving their stashed goodies, and we were back in camp within an hour and a half. With the remainder of the day we snacked, napped, practiced using ascenders, and snacked some more. We will try to cache some gear above the fixed lines tomorrow if the weather is favorable. Talk to you all then. RMI Guide Walter Hailes

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Big Daddy says “Go Big or Go Home!” and don’t come home until you go big. Keep up the good work, we look forward to the untold stories upon your return.

Posted by: Chris Ewers on 6/6/2018 at 3:56 pm

Tyler, luck be with you- I told Syd where you were- he’s coming to catch up with you!!!! You better climb bigger, faster harder!!! Haha! Love Ya, D and Lo

Posted by: Dee DEe Miller on 6/4/2018 at 7:16 pm

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Take Rest Day at 14,000’ Camp

June 3, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Sunday, June 3, 2018 - 7:26 PM PT Our acclimatization at 14,000ft continues, and we took today to rest, get ready for our summit push, and took a stroll out to the Edge of the World, where Genet Basin that 14,000ft Camp sits on falls away almost 7,000 feet to the Northeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. It's the perfect photo opportunity, and our team took advantage. Our focus shifts up now, and if the weather looks good in the morning, we'll make our move to 17,000' Camp and keep moving towards the summit! RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and team

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Magnus and Team!
Following with interest.
Best of luck with the summit attempt.
Johan w family

Posted by: Johan Blechert on 6/5/2018 at 2:00 am

Wishing the team and guides a safe climb and good weather. Can’t wait to see the pics Magnus - all the best!! Stay focused, warm and motivated….

Posted by: Adelle on 6/5/2018 at 12:05 am

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Back Carry to Grab Their Cache

June 3, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Monday, June 3, 2018 - 3:11 pm PT The sun is shining and the weather is sweet at 11,000 feet. We were singing a sweet song as the walking was easy to grab our our cache back at 10,200 feet. To the rescue came quesadillas for breakfast filled with eggs, hash browns and bacon along with some rest day vibes from Bob Marley. We want y'all to know our bellies are full and we are taking it easy this afternoon with some training later this afternoon as we begin the climbing portion of our expedition. We will stir it up in the kitchen tonight and prepare ourselves for another hard day, as we will be jammin’ up to 14,000' camp to cache half of our group and personal supplies. We are hoping for another natural, mystic day tomorrow. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Matt Hill(and team),

Very inspiring and equally jealous. Proud of you, bud! Have a great climb!

Posted by: Mark Ward on 6/5/2018 at 4:37 am

Matt Hill, Have a good climb from your buds Ricky, Julian, Bubbles, and Paul!

Posted by: Paul Downs on 6/4/2018 at 9:36 am

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Denali Expedition: Walter and Team Wait out the Weather

June 3, 2018

Posted by: Mike Walter, Robby Young, Alan Davis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Sunday, June 3, 2018 - 2:00 PM PT We woke this morning and looked up at the upper mountain to see a little bit of wind coming off of Denali Pass; something to keep an eye on, but nothing too concerning. Our stoves were stubborn to heat up at this altitude and with these cold temps, but soon they were firing away, working hard to melt our cook pots full of solid ice (which, just last night, were water).The winds of early morning transformed into a menacing lenticular cloud cap that refused to dissipate. We hung around on "stand by" for a few hours, hoping conditions would improve. That never happened and we decided that we would write this one off as a rest day. We're hoping that tomorrow morning will present us with better climbing weather for a summit bid. Stay tuned. RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Hi Tom!
I’ve been following your incredible journey!
I’m hoping the weather cleared for your summit bid!
Can’t wait to hear/see (did you bring a camera? :) all about it once you’re home!
Enjoy the last few days with Mother Nature and your climbing pals!
Shannon

Posted by: SHANNON REILLY on 6/5/2018 at 8:19 pm

Hey Mike, Roby, and Alan,
Please let your team member, Joseph know that his wife and kids wish him a Happy Birthday.
Wishing good luck, Tünde, Angela, és Hanna.

Posted by: Tünde Veis on 6/4/2018 at 4:08 pm

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Bolivia Expedition: Frank, Bond, and Team Summit Huayna Potosi!

June 3, 2018

Posted by: Eric Frank, Andy Bond

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Bolivia

Elevation: 19,979'

Sunday, June 3 - 6:18 AM PT Hey, this is Eric and Andy checking in from Bolivia. Just letting you know that everyone made it up to the top of Huayna Potosi this morning. We are in a cloud right now and experiencing a little bit of snow, but have calm winds and we're making our descent. Everyone is doing well and it's a beautiful day in the mountains. RMI Guide Andy Bond

Andy Bond checking in from Bolivia.

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Cache Gear At 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Make Summit Attempt, Turn back due to Winds

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Hailes & Team Carry Up the Fixed Lines

On The Map

Bolivia: Frank & Team Resting in La Paz

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Reach Summit

Denali Expedition: Hailes and Team Back Carry from 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Take Rest Day at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Back Carry to Grab Their Cache

Denali Expedition: Walter and Team Wait out the Weather

On The Map

Bolivia Expedition: Frank, Bond, and Team Summit Huayna Potosi!

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