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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Turns at 13,500’

The Four Day Summit Climb led by Geoff Schellens and Jenny Konway turned this morning at 13,500'. The team made the call to turn around after experiencing high wind gusts on the upper mountain. They called in from about 12,300' at 7:00 AM PT and reported good views and a steady descent.
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Denali Expedition: Walter & Team at High Camp, Ready for Summit Bid

Saturday, June 2, 2018 - 8:30 pm PT We woke to perfect weather so we fired up the stoves, had a hot breakfast and packed up camp. We were climbing before 9am, headed up toward the headwall en route to 17k camp. The weather was perfect and so were the views. We made it to camp in six hours. And then it took us another couple of hours to build camp, and another few on top of that for us to get dinner made (our stoves are rather anemic at this altitude). If all goes well, we'll try for the top tomorrow. We'll see what the weather throws at us in the morning, but the forecast remains good through mid week. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

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Heidi and I love you and miss you, Dave!

Hope the sun is shining and you are keeping as warm as you can. We know how much you love the snowy mountains.

XOXO,
Me and Heidi

Posted by: Michelle & Heidi on 6/3/2018 at 1:34 pm

Cheering you on from Peru, Tom, and Team Denali! Looking forward to the summit photos. Then, you ride your sleds back to the bottom, right? :) xox Patty

Posted by: Patty on 6/3/2018 at 11:43 am


Denali Expedition: Hailes & Team Move Up to 14K Camp

Saturday, June 2, 2018 - 7:25 pm PT All is well on Denali at 14,000 ft camp. We climbed for approximately five hours today after quickly breaking down camp at 11,200 feet. The air was crisp all day but we had full sunshine keeping us comfortable. This day on Denali is always tough and today was no exception. Thankfully we are all in camp now relaxing with our boots off resting up for a big tortellini dinner. I am sure it will be an early night to bed and we will enjoy a well earned late wake up in the morning RMI Guide Walter Hailes

On The Map

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Hey Tyler
With you

Posted by: D Dutro on 6/3/2018 at 8:09 pm

Hey Tyler
With you

Posted by: D Dutro on 6/3/2018 at 8:07 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Make a Run up the Fixed Lines

Saturday, June 2, 2018 - 6:56 pm PT We decided that the perfect weather this morning demanded that we go take a run up the fixed lines to check them out, and finally gain the West Buttress. We're sitting through a spell of fantastic weather, warm, calm, and sunny, and the views back over camp were stunning. The fixed lines are often a point of uncertainty, nervousness, and apprehension, right up until we clip in to them and everyone realizes that's it's just the same old climbing that we are all used to. Everyone did a fantastic job and we cruised to the top, took a bit to enjoy the views and breathe some thin air, then headed back down to camp for an afternoon siesta. Tomorrow we'll take one more rest day before we look to make our move to 17K Camp and get our summit push underway. RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford, and team

On The Map

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Hey Rich and all your teammates…great pictures have been coming our way and we are so pleased you all have had such great weather.  Can’t wait to see more!!!  Love mom and dad

Posted by: Richard lewis on 6/3/2018 at 2:12 pm

Thinking of you all every day and enjoying these updates! Happy Birthday yesterday to Henry - love to him and Caleb from Gran/Mom (and of course to the rest of the group!)

Posted by: Jennifer Huntington on 6/3/2018 at 8:17 am


Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Move to 11,000’ Camp

Saturday, June 2, 2018 - 3:23 PM PT Early this morning we broke down camp under perfect conditions! The team climbed remarkably strong and we made great time up to our Camp III at 11,000'. We arrived in mid morning to avoid traveling while in the heat of solar rays and overheating our engines. The crew then built camp in short order now we’re settling in for a mid day siesta. We’re strong, happy and stoked with our performance. Tonight we will have a feast of Annie’s Mac and cheese, then we will try to be up before the sun hits us in the morning for a short back carry to retrieve yesterday’s load of groceries, fuel, and personal luggage. That’s all for now from our new camp and currently the rest and hydration station. Cheers, RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Brian Mazaika, and Nick Scott

On The Map

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Go Team Jones! Go Shawn! August says that next time he want to go with you :-)
Keep up the great work everyone. Awesome progress up this amazing mountain!

Posted by: Kam on 6/3/2018 at 7:36 am

Yes!! Watching you all move up the map is incredibly exciting. Stoked to hear the team is climbing strong and the conditions ideal. Sounds like the team is climbing with style.

Dave and Team, you are in our thoughts and we are cheering on each step higher!!

Love,
B

Posted by: Beth on 6/3/2018 at 4:55 am


Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Prepare For Summit Attempt on Huayna Potosi

Saturday, June 2, 2018 - 2:43 PM PT We awoke to a leisurely morning as we waited for our porters to arrive and collect some of our gear to bring to High Camp at 17,600’ on Huayna Potosi. As with any big mountain around the world, weather plays a major role when attempting to summit a 6000 meter peak. With a deteriorating forecast in the coming days, we’ve decided to bump up our summit attempt to tonight! Today we climbed a little over 1500’ to the Anselme Baud hut at the base of glacier. The hut feels similar to any European Chalet with a mixture of people from all over the world looking to climb. The crew did great getting to the hut allowing us ample time to enjoy tea, and food. Currently it’s cloudy, with no precipitation and winds are calm. Our hope is to climb tonight before the weather turns with an approaching cold front. Forecasting weather in Bolivia is a challenge as clouds slowly build in the Amazon lowlands slowly building over the mountains. Some local guides use the sight of a certain beetle to tell when a storm is approaching. We remain optimistic that weather will hold off until Monday. We’ll keep our fingers crossed as we look to make our summit attempt tonight on Huayna Potosi. RMI Guide Eric Frank
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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Rest at 14,000’ Camp

Friday, June 1, 2018 - 10:30 PM PT We're falling into the rhythm of Denali. After a big day yesterday, it seemed appropriate to take a rest day and avail ourselves of the comforts of 14,000' Camp. It was a stellar, beautiful day and we rested for most, taking a brief reprieve to practice and train for the fixed lines tomorrow. We'll take our first spin on those and everyone is excited to get on the West Buttress and some exciting terrain! RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

On The Map

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Happy Birthday to your mate on the mountain!

Rich hope all is going well! Can’t wait to hear all about your trip when you get back home

Posted by: Susie and the kids on 6/2/2018 at 7:51 pm

Happy birthday to Hank Huntington! -Thomas

Posted by: Thomas Huntington on 6/2/2018 at 11:38 am


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climbs Reach the Crater

The Four Day Summit Climb May 30 - 2 June, 2018 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. RMI Guide Steve Gately reported consistent 20 mph winds and cloudy conditions. The team will return to Camp Muir and then continue down to Paradise. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
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Congrats team! What an amazing accomplishment!

Posted by: Staci Ikeler on 6/3/2018 at 6:45 pm

Awesome!  Wonderful!  Best news I’ve had in a long time.  Enjoy the descent and the memories of a life time experience together.  Thank you for the blog information.  It made my day for sure.

Posted by: Helen PicKell on 6/2/2018 at 1:16 pm


Denali Expedition: Hailes & Team Rest at 11,000’ Camp

Friday, June 1, 2018 - 9:30 PM PT We had our first rest day of the trip today, and the team certainly earned it. The weather was perfect, with blue skies, and a cool breeze that kept us from baking in the tents. The day went pretty quickly, which is not always the case. We passed most of the time trading stories about our most embarrassing moments, and listening to Finnish heavy metal courtesy of our friendly neighbors. Not much else to report from the mountain today. We'll check in tomorrow, hopefully from our new home at 14,000'. RMI Guide Walter Hailes

On The Map

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Brett,
We are so proud of you! Garrett and I miss you but we’re doing great and we’re happy thinking about you, Alden, and Chip on this amazing adventure! We’re sorry we missed your sat call. We love you!!! Xoxo

Posted by: Kate on 6/2/2018 at 9:55 pm

Alden, keep pumping brother. Me and the lady buglettes are behind you and your team 110%.

Bugman

Posted by: Matt Lattig on 6/2/2018 at 6:10 pm


Alaska Seminar: Dale & Team Complete Seminar, Return to Talkeenta

Friday, June 1, 2018 - 6:33 PM PT From the top of Radio Tower to the bottom of the crevasse on the Kahiltna, your guides; Christina, Lucas, and Alex thank the Alaska Seminar team for bringing a sense of humor and awe to the 9 days spent together. We are now off the ice and onto burgers and brews.
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