Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Morning at 12,600 ft was cold and frosty... and beautiful from Shira Camp. Partway through our breakfast, the sun found its way over Kilimanjaro and warmed us right up. Conditions were perfect for walking when we set out at 8:20 AM. Our route took us directly in toward Kibo -Kilimanjaro’s towering central peak. The terrain was easier than the rocky narrow track we were on yesterday. This was gently rising, wide open juniper and sagebrush. Within a few hours we were breaking altitude records as we passed 14 and then 15,000 ft. At 15,200 ft we’d reached our goal, the Lava Tower. Clouds had come over, making us notice the cool air, but the weather wasn’t unpleasant, by any means. We sat for a good half hour, enjoying a fine lunch spread presented on a Maasai picnic blanket by our camp staff. Then we shifted gears and walked downhill for a couple thousand feet into the garden-like Barranco Valley full of Sceneccios and Lobelias. We pulled into camp at 3:20, making for seven hours and our biggest day yet. Then it was time to snack and rest and gaze up at tomorrow’s challenge... the Great Barranco Wall.
After dinner, our staff surprised Mike Winiarski with a perfectly prepared and presented birthday cake. The guys sang in English and Swahili as we all laughed and clapped along. Mike admitted that it was a birthday he wouldn’t soon forget.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Mike Uchal
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Northside
Elevation: 12,300'
It was a perfect morning to move up to Camp 1! Bright, sunny skies greeted us as we crawled out of the tents, so we'r spent some time organizing what we would take up high and what we would leave. It's easy to think about a few days in camp 1 and start filling our backpacks with luxury items, but everything that comes up must go down. We cooked up a "very American breakfast" of fresh eggs, Tillamook cheddar, loaded into tortillas, and grabbed our packs to start the journey back up the tall that we familiarized ourselves with yesterday. Somehow, having seen it once, each stretch felt easier than yesterday, we walked a bit lighter, and before we knew it, we were pulling into camp.
The pattern from the last several afternoons changed today, and though clouds built at times, they dispersed and we stayed warm and most importantly, dry. We're looking at a bit of a training day tomorrow, but mostly a day to rest and acclimate after a few big days and a big jump in altitude.
RMI Guides Pete and Mike, and Team "all we've learned is the Russian word for hose"
Great job Guys! Keep it up Dan!
Posted by: Mike Lee on 8/10/2019 at 5:55 am
Can’t wait to see pictures and hear about your climb Dan!! Now is when all that conditioning and hard work pays off. Take in the view and live in the moment man. LOVE that kind of stuff! What an adventure for sure.
Justin
Posted by: JWiz on 8/9/2019 at 1:49 pm
RMI Guide Andy Bond and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team reached to summit of Mt. Rainier today. After two days of Technical Training, the team ascended the Kautz Route learning technical skills they moved up to their high camp on the mountain. Today the team put the skills to work and successfully climbed the challenging Kautz Ice Chute en route to the Summit. The team has started their descent and will spend another night on the mountain before returning to Rainier Basecamp.
Congratulations team!
The Four Day Climb August 5 - 8 reached the summit around 5:30 AM today. RMI Guides Mike King and JT Schmitt reported a cloud cap near the summit and moderate sustained winds. The teams are returning to Camp Muir and will continue their descent to Paradise later today.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
Congratulations, Team!!! You did it! You all should be so proud of yourselves on this incredible accomplishment:) I love you, Owen!
Posted by: Catherine on 8/8/2019 at 12:12 pm
Third times the charm! Way to go Adam! Hope that cloud cap didn’t dim the view! What an accomplishment!
Posted by: Kay on 8/8/2019 at 8:24 am
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Mike Uchal
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Northside
Elevation: 8,300'
We awoke the first time this morning to the entrancing beats of Zivert, from songs of an intrepid hiker's boombox, at 4:30 am. A bit confused and groggy we fell asleep again, waking to bright sunshine at a much more reasonable hour, all wondering if we had imagined the 4:30 episode. After a breakfast spread and fresh artisan drip coffee seemed better than Starbucks by Abby, we packed up our packs with loads of food and climbing gear that we won't need until above Camp 1 and headed uphill to make our first steps towards the summit, get dinner off our weight up to the next camp, and accomplish some acclimatization as well.
Our sunshine lasted for about an hour and a half of walking, and by late morning, clouds had built above us and much of the mountain. It was cooler, and the occasional snowflake sifted down as we continued our upward progress. After just under five hours, we walked into Camp 1, on the terminal moraine of the glacier. We made a quick cache, then turned and headed down, hoping to drop underneath the clouds. We managed to just around Mushroom Rocks, some unique formations that have been sculpted by wind, rain, snow, and time to resemble giant rock mushrooms. After pausing for photos and snacks, it was all ahead to base camp, impressed to have the weight off our backs and be able to move. We rounded out the evening with naps and a hearty pasta dinner. Our plan tomorrow, assuming the weather cooperates, is to move up to the huts at Camp 1.
Best,
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Mike Uchal, and team
On The Map
We were treated to another clear morning -above Machame Camp at least- there was a sea of clouds below, but that didn’t bother anybody. We enjoyed a 7:15 breakfast and by 8 AM we were ready for walking. John, the lead guide on our local staff, formally introduced us to the fifty man team of porters, cooks, tent builders, waiters and guides helping to get us up Kilimanjaro. The team sent us off with a song as everybody clapped and danced along.
The trail started out immediately more steep and rugged than yesterday’s route. We gained altitude quickly in a forest of giant heather. Ultimately we reached a ridge crest and followed it for several hours, still steadily gaining height. The final hour involved a traverse out to the left where the hike became a mild scramble requiring good hand and footholds on the rock. We reached a high point at around 12,900 ft as we turned a corner onto the Shira Plateau and then it was an easy downhill stroll into camp at 12,600 ft. We reached Shira Camp near 1:00 in the afternoon and so had most of the afternoon for resting, eating and drinking. As with yesterday, things clouded up by midday and this time we had brief rain showers in the afternoon, which just made it a little easier to nap inside the tents. The clouds melted away by evening and we were treated to a fine sunset and great views of 15,000 ft Mt. Meru off on the western horizon.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
After two days spent on the mountain the Five Day Climb reached to summit of Mt. Rainier early today. RMI Guide Jess Matthews called in as the team was on the descent. The team has had great weather while on the mountain, and everyone has climbed strong. They will return to Paradise this afternoon.
Congratulations team!
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guide Steve Gately reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Steve reported clear skies and a light breeze. They are on the descent and will be back to Camp Muir in a few short hours.
Congratulations Team!
I check these blog updates almost daily! I know RMI and Rainier have a lot of climbs throughout the season but it would be interesting for sure to write maybe a bit more of the Rainier climbs. Maybe a great story from a guide or climber that was told. A crazy food that was brought up on the mountain. Ask the guides who are working the climb to share a bit more. It could be Steves 10th Rainier summit or another important summit for another guide on the team. Food for thought from a lover of climbing blogs. Thank you
Posted by: Darren Chromey on 8/7/2019 at 11:24 am
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Dustin Wittmier, Dominic Cifelli
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 10,781'
Hannah Smith called in by SAT Phone this morning to let us know that the entire team had reached the summit of Mt. Baker via the Easton Glacier route. She reported excellent warm weather and a great route. The team has begun their descent and will return to town today for showers and a fresh meal.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
CONGRATULATIONS
MT. BAKER TEAM !!
Very proud of you Peter Gaeta !!
Posted by: Doreen Kaplan on 8/6/2019 at 1:39 pm
Congratulations, I am in awe of your bravery and hard work!
Posted by: Judy Costigan on 8/6/2019 at 1:08 pm
From first light this morning at the Arumeru River Lodge, Kilimanjaro could be seen towering in the distance, free of the normal cloud cover. The purists in the group maintained that the air was still "a little hazy" but the rest of us were simply thankful for the view and the chance to start our climb without rain in the air and mud on the trail. We’d finished breakfast and the “duffel shuffle” by 8 AM and so we loaded up on our bus for the 90 minute ride to the park entrance. The team stayed alert for the ride, alternating between staring at the rapidly growing mountain on the horizon and watching the Tanzanians beginning their day in the towns and villages along the highway. The bus began to climb as we drove up through banana and coffee plantations at the base of the big volcano. At the 6,000 ft Machame Gate to the park, we hopped out and got ready for walking. We were on the trail in perfect conditions at 10:40 AM. Freddy -one of our most experienced local guides- led the way and set the pace. We followed, marveling at the thick and lush forest. Eventually, in the early afternoon, cumulus clouds formed just above us and took away the sunlight that had been sneaking down through the foliage. The air got quite humid and although we were climbing steadily and getting into cooler air, we each did a fair bit of sweating. We took rest breaks each hour or so and in about five hours time we rolled into Machame Camp at nearly 10,000 ft. The team was a little amazed at how much work had been done by our support staff in building camp and making things comfortable and easy for our arrival. We enjoyed afternoon tea and ultimately Chef Tosha’s excellent dinner in the dining tent. The clouds cleared away and we came out to find a display of stars and moon and Milky Way that far exceeded the home view many of our team have access to. Day one went just fine in every way.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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So proud of both Bob’s and the view of the stars above and the city below must be amazing. Tried to make u both out in the pics, but its hard to do, except for the glimpses of one set of hands moving in a very animated manner and that has to be my husband. Miss u both!
Posted by: Cindy Gervey on 8/9/2019 at 1:22 pm
Thanks for the updates and photos. Good luck tomorrow and a special big shout-out to Bob Brothers! Keep having fun!
Posted by: Iwona Piatkowska on 8/8/2019 at 5:19 pm
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