Entries from Locations
Posted by: Tyler Jones, Mike Uchal
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
RMI Guides Tyler Jones and Mike Uchal lead their Four Day Summit Climb July 4 - 7, 2017 teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier today. They began their descent from the crater rim around 7 am PT. Tyler reported strong winds on the summit but decreasing winds as they were descending. The sky is mostly clear with a few high clouds. The team will descend to Paradise today and return to Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
Posted by: Eric Frank
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Hello, this is RMI Guide Eric Frank calling from the Torment Basin here in the North Cascades. We are on day one of a seven-day custom climbing trip and we have the most beautiful view you can imagine right now. We climbed up out of the wooded valley up into the alpine and tonight we are going to sleep out on the glacier below the beginning of the Torment-Forbidden Traverse. It is beautiful blue skies probably the most stable weather of the summer thus far. So we're actually up here without a tent, just laying out looking at all of the expanses of the North Cascades in front of us. Tomorrow we're hoping to climb the majority of Torment-Forbidden Traverse, and then probably finish up with Forbidden on Saturday. I look forward to updating you a long the way. Take care.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
RMI Guide Eric Frank calls in from the North Cascades.
Update 5:00 pm PST
Elias and team are back at high camp and will descend off the mountain tomorrow. All is well and he will check in from Huaraz.
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Hello! This is ElÃas and the team calling from the summit ridge of Artesonraju. We’ve been climbing since midnight. It’s 10:20 local time. We’re super-psyched, but unfortunately we cannot reach the summit. We are literally a stone’s throw from the top, and it’s got a hefty cornice, and it’s very dangerous. We don’t find it worth it to continue the last 100 meters to the top, so we’re headed down. That’s it for now!
Elias calling from the Summit of Artesonraju July 6, 2017
Congratulations! I can’t wait to hear about the challenges you all faced and overcame! Thank you for choosing safety first!
Posted by: Laura Bryson on 7/6/2017 at 5:50 pm
Great job guys for getting as far as you could go. A difficult few days but the effort so now take care on the return!
Posted by: Peter Williamson on 7/6/2017 at 1:48 pm
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Hannah Smith, Hannah McGowan, Avery Parrinello
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Our final day on Denali began just an hour after the second-to-last day ended. We were up at 1 AM and walking South by three. The hoped for full-on freeze didn't quite come through. While the glacier surface was a little crunchy under the snowshoes, one still sank in a bit more than we'd have preferred. But half a freeze is better than none when there are crevasse bridges to be crossed. And we crossed about a thousand of them. We did have a few scares as team members broke through to wiggle their legs in the void before hastily crawling topside again. I think all would agree that the morning commute to the airstrip was stressful, brutally tough with big packs, and magically stupendous in terms of scenery and the feeling of accomplishment when it was completed. We were at basecamp no more than ten minutes before the big red beautiful K2 ski otters swooped in and scooped us up at 9:45 AM. The rest of the day was spent in glorious summer down in Talkeetna. We changed into cotton and sandals and sorted stinky gear. Our celebration dinner at the West Rib was a blast. We laughed and toasted for hours. A nightcap at the Fairview and a walk down to the Susitna to see the mountains at midnight made for a perfect ending to a perfect trip.
Thanks for following... we'll do it all again sometime.
Best,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons, led by Mike King, is back at camp after their summit day. The team walked into a cloud cap as they began their ascent. Winds sustained at 40 mph with gusts of 50 mph. Now back at Camp Schurman, the winds are dying down and the cap is slowly diminishing. Other than that, not a cloud in the sky.
Tomorrow they will descend from Camp Schurman and drive back to Ashford where they will celebrate their week on Mt. Rainier!
Posted by: Robby Young, Steve Gately
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 16,000'
We were greeted this morning by another beautiful Peruvian morning! Our agenda today would take us to the toe of the glacier at about 16,000ft to review and learn climbing techniques that we will use on our ascent of Ishinca tomorrow morning. The approach takes about 2-3 hours and follows a track through old glacial moraine, remnants of when the glaciers used to flow deep down these valleys. At the toe of the glacier we all donned our climbing equipment and began the days learning. Our training site gives one massive view of the surrounding peaks and glaciers. Many of which are above 6000 meters. The team did fantastic today and we're all feeling really good about our climb tomorrow. We are all back at camp now where we'll take a short siesta before dinner and an early night in preparation for tomorrow. Thanks to everyone for following along. Tune in tomorrow for more!
RMI Guide Steve Gately
Posted by: Mark Tucker, JM Gorum
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside
Today was a perfect day in big mountains! After yet another tasty breakfast in our dinning hut we set off for a solid 4-hour training climb. It was cold enough last night that we all put on crampons to help with traction. This was great training for the team, they did their homework and are physically prepared. We turned around just below 15,000’. This was a new altitude record for some of the team. Then we were back to camp for lunch a bit of a rest. Right now, we are waiting for dinner, and watching the colorful sunset on the dramatic huge mountains in all directions. This evening we meet to go over climbing equipment and tactics.
Team is in fine shape and glad to be here!
RMI Guide Mark Tucker & Team
Posted by: Paul Rachele, Chase Nelson
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Summit Climb team led by RMI Guides Paul Rachele and Chase Nelson reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 6:40am. Paul reported strong winds of about 50 mph and a cloud cap covering the crater rim. The team started their descent at 7:00am and are en-route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's team!
Congratulations! The picture is stunning. Safe hiking down to Paradise. Thank you for this post.
Posted by: Nancy Madru on 7/6/2017 at 9:04 am
Posted by: Robby Young, Steve Gately
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 14,200'
Hello from 14,200'!
Life is good here in the Peruvian Andes. Acclimatization and technical training were the name of the game today. After a good night's rest, a pancake breakfast, and some warm morning sun, we dove right into knots and hitches; the foundation for some of the technical systems we'll learn later on. Chicken soup and beat+potato salad were a welcomed lunch break before a short hike to the top of the moraine at 15,200'. The views didn't disappoint. From our perch we could see all the real time glaciation on Tocllaraju, as well as our future route up Urus Este. We're back in camp awaiting what is surely to be an incredible dinner spread in our dining tent. Life is pure, simple, and beautiful here in Peru, and our entire team is feeling great. We'll update you tomorrow from the Ishinca Glacier during our on-snow training day. Until then, hasta luego!
RMI Guide Robby Young and team
The RMI Artesonraju team made a summit attempt yesterday, reaching 5,600 meters. Technical difficulties kept them from continuing, but the team is giving it another try tonight. Stay tuned!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
Guys, you are determined!
Wishing you well on the next attempt -stay strong and be safe!
Posted by: Peter williamson on 7/5/2017 at 6:00 pm
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Hey Daddio,
congratulations on tackling the mountain. We knew you could do it. Have a great rest of the trip. love you
-Cam
Hey Daddio,
nice job on getting to the peak! Hope it was a great experience, can’t wait tohear all about it. love you
-Austie
Congratulations Paul and team! Sending love and hugs!xoxo
-Kim
Posted by: Kim Hexter on 7/7/2017 at 9:31 am
Well done Dad!!!!! Love Harry x (Thomas, Oliver and mum)
Posted by: Harry on 7/7/2017 at 8:16 am
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