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RMI Expeditions Blog


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Reach Summit

RMI Guides Robby Young and Ben Liken led the May 8 - 11 Four Day Climb teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Climbing conditions were good with lots of climbers on the mountain. The weather is beautiful with warm temperatures and clear skies. Once back at Camp Muir the teams will continue down to Paradise and return to Rainier BaseCamp. Congratulations to today's climbers!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

This was a great experience for me and my two boys, that we will never forget. Our team of climbers was made up of a great mix of people who all came together to get to the top. I’m proud have climbed with you guys and you’ve inspired me to be better.

On the guides; A thing I learned very early in my Marine Corps career was how to spot professionalism and raw, unfiltered competence. This is especially important when serving in a combat zone. You learn quick to spot people who know what the hell they are talking about because lives and mission rest on it. From the very first meeting it was very obvious to me that Rob, Josh and Chad had this talent in abundance and it became even more evident on the mountain. Thanks guys, you humbled this old Jarhead (not easy, lol), with your knowledge, physical ability and spot on climbing guidance.

I hope we get to climb together again soon

Semper Fi

Paul

PS: Tell Josh I’m working on my walking skills and hope to cut my future descent trip/falling to less than 10 per mile. ;).

Posted by: Paul Roarke on 5/14/2019 at 6:36 am

Incredible experience!! So proud to climb alongside such an awesome team and couldn’t have asked for better guides.  Miss everyone already :) Thanks for everything!!

Posted by: Anna Dooner on 5/13/2019 at 7:51 pm


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Kicking Off The 2019 Alaska Season

The 2019 Denali climbing season is getting under way. Our team met this morning for breakfast at the historic Talkeetna Roadhouse for heaping servings of eggs and sourdough hotcakes. After breakfast we strolled down to the Susitna River where chunks of recently broken up ice flowed out from the direction of the Alaska Range. On a clear day we would be able to see Denali from here, but our view was obscured by clouds. Next up was a trip the National Park Service office for a pre-trip orientation. We went over specifics of the route as well as safety issues and environmental stewardship responsibilities we climbers have in keeping the mountain clean. The rest of the day was the meat and potatoes, where we headed to the K2 Aviation hangar to sort our gear and food to be prepared to fly into the range, hopefully tomorrow. We'll keep you posted with our status... RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Go get’em Kelby!

Posted by: Mike Potter on 5/13/2019 at 9:28 am

Wishing the first team of the season an awesome weather and an unforgettable experience! I’ll follow your footprints in a few weeks!!!

Posted by: Anna on 5/11/2019 at 10:10 am


Mt. Rainier: Hahn & Knoff on Top!

The Mt. Rainier Five Day Summit Climb stood on the summit earlier this morning. The teams, led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Adam Knoff, experienced a bluebird day with what seems to be endless views from the highest point in Washington. Both teams began their descent around 8:20 am PT. We look forward to congratulating them back at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon.
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congrats to all on a successful summit! Each trip report I read deepens my desire to attempt the summit myself. Someday.

Posted by: Greg on 5/11/2019 at 9:14 pm

Never get tired of seeing Hahn and Knoff celebrating a summit. Way to go!!

Posted by: Jane Knoff on 5/10/2019 at 9:47 am


Mt. Rainier: May 8th Summit!

The Five Day Climb led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Bryan Mazaika reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Brent reported clear skies, but a constant wind of about 35 mph keeping the temperatures cool. Congratulations to Today's Team!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to all.  What an accomplishment.  And you all did not have to suffer this heat wave in Seattle.

Posted by: Mac Fletcher on 5/10/2019 at 9:45 pm

Congrats team!! A beautiful start to the climbing season onRainier. Way to go Brent Okita! On his way to 600!! :)

Posted by: Larry Schultz on 5/9/2019 at 8:01 am


Mt. Rainier: Okita & Mazaika Take Their Teams to Ingraham Flats for Acclimatization

Our hike up to Camp Muir yesterday was beautiful. The nicest day of the season! This morning we climbed the first 1,000' of the route to Ingraham Flats as part of our acclimatization for the climb. Reports from other guides suggest our route is the nicest, most direct route we could ask for. We're all excited! We'll have a meeting to go over preparations for the climb tonight then get to bed before our pre-dawn departure. Wish us well. RMI Guides Brent Okita, Bryan Mazaika and the crew at Muir
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Mt. Baker: Gorum & Team Summit Mt. Baker and Enjoy Ski Descent

RMI Guide JM Gorum and the May 3 - 5, 2019 Mt. Baker Summit and Ski Descent checked in from camp this afternoon. The team enjoyed a beautiful day on the mountain with 100% of the team reaching the summit. They enjoyed the views from the summit before pointing their skis downhill and enjoyed some awesome skiing. They reached camp in under an hour. The group will pack up camp and continue to the trail head later this afternoon. Congratulations to the Mt. Baker team!
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MT. Rainier: May 3rd Summit!

The Five Day Summit Climb Teams led by RMI Guides Robby Young and Andy Bond reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Andy reported clear skies, light winds and cool temperatures. The route is in great condition, the team took just under five hours to reach the summit. Congratulations to today's team!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations.  What an accomplishment!

Posted by: Mac on 5/10/2019 at 9:39 pm

Words are inadequate to express how truly proud we are of you and your team on this amazing accomplishment!!  Unbelievable you were even able to reach the summit.  We are in awe of the feat you and your team achieved.  God Bless You!!

Posted by: Uncle Gary and Aunt Roe on 5/5/2019 at 11:53 am


Mountaineering Training | Ladder Intervals

One of the keys to performance in endurance events such as distance running, cycling, swimming, or mountaineering, is to be able to put in a hard burst in the middle of your effort and then recover. We see Tour de France cyclists do this all the time, racing a full out sprint in the middle of a stage, then recovering for the final sprint 60 miles later. Runners do it when they make a break up a hill to get away from the field, and mountaineers need to be able to do it when getting through a tough stretch of Disappointment Cleaver or clambering over the bergschrund on the fixed lines on Denali. The ability to put on a burst AND recover while you maintain your activity is developed through interval training.

There are lots of different intervals that can be tailored to accomplish different goals, from natural rolling intervals (Fartlek Intervals), to the 4x4 interval workout. Another useful set of intervals are ladder intervals.

Ladder intervals are sets of increasing and/or decreasing intervals. Ladder intervals can be done in a variety of terrain, from flats, to rolling hills, to a hill climb. A common ladder set might be to do a 1-minute interval, then recover, then do a 2-minute interval, followed by a 4-minute effort, followed by a 6-minute interval. Once you reach your peak (you’ve worked your way up the ladder), start working your way back down, reversing the pattern. After the 6-minute interval, do a 4-minute interval, then a 2-minute interval, and then finish with a last 1-minute interval. As with all interval training, the goal is to complete each one at a similar pace. The 1-minute interval might naturally be a bit faster, but you want to avoid blowing yourself out in the first couple of intervals so that you are just surviving through the remainder.

Another important component to interval training is the recovery time. Recover for between 50-100 percent of the duration of the previous effort. For shorter intervals, recovery time might be closer to 100 percent (you might recover for 1 minute after a 1-minute interval) while longer intervals may be closer to 50 percent (for the 4 and 6-minute intervals). Recover for long enough that your heart rate has dropped and you feel ready for the next set, but not so long that your heart rate returns to a very low zone 1 or 2 effort level. Recovery is best accomplished actively, at a very slow jog, walk, or spin; after all, the ability to recover while moving is what we are trying to develop.
As with all training tools, the ladder intervals can be adjusted to fit your needs. Using longer sets (at a slower pace) will help to build your lactate threshold, while shorter (and faster) sets will help to build your anaerobic threshold and recovery. These can also be done over distances rather than time, such as on a track. An example might be a 100m, 200m, 400m, 800m, 400m, 200m, 100m. Remember that interval training requires a quality warm up and cool down, both to prevent injury, and allow you to perform and get the most out of the workout.

_____

Need a refresher on interval training? Learn more about general interval training…

Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here!

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

very impressive post for mountain climber like me.i am very excited to do my next expedition after reading your article.
Thanks for sharing.

Posted by: Rajendra Timalsina on 5/14/2019 at 8:18 am


Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb Starts Off the 2019 Climbing Season

What a few days it's been. After a productive and fun day at our climbing school on Saturday we were excited about the perfect day we had yesterday for our hike up to Camp Muir. At times it was almost too hot as the sun's radiation backed. But we all persevered and made it to Camp Muir doing well. Unfortunately, today we received some bad news when the guides kicking in the route discovered a crevasse preventing forward progress up to the higher reaches of the mountain. That, coupled with some not insignificant avalanche hazard from a couple of unexpected evening snow storms has forced us to temper our ambitions for the summit this go around. While disappointed, the team was understanding and in full agreement that getting down safe and sound was our priority. While a handful of folks opted to descend to the comforts of life at sea level, the rest of us explored the upper mountain as much as we could and had a great day enjoying the glaciers and crevasses of Mt Rainier. Later, as the now normal afternoon snow storm continues to dump snow at Muir here, we're passing the afternoon and evening talking about mountains, climbing and the tall tales that take root in such firmament. We're planning on an early departure tomorrow morning when we hope the skies will have cleared and the sun will shine on our descent. See you soon. RMI Guides Brent Okita, Dustin Wittmier, James Bealer and the team
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Words cannot adequately express how proud and excited we are for you and your team on this amazing accomplishment.  You even were able to reach the summit!!
God Bless You!

Posted by: Uncle Gary & Aunt Roe on 5/5/2019 at 10:41 am


Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar continue training at Camp Muir

The storm hitting us at Camp Muir originated in the tropics and we wouldn't have been surprised to see palm fronds waving in the breeze given how unseasonably warm it is up here. Yes, it's still snowing, but just. And for being at 10,000' that's warm! We started our day discussing numerous topics in the Bunkhouse, but ventured out by mid morning. Equipped though we were with full on Gortex storm gear it took less than an hour for the moisture in the cloud enveloping our world to permeate the vaunted membrane of our rain gear. But we persevered and got some great training in, developing our expertise in handling running belays and evaluating snow stability through studying snow pits. Lunchtime found us back inside, thankful for the plywood protection of our bunkhouse and trying to dry out our external layers through our bodies natural internal combustion. It does work, but slowly. There was plenty to talk about through the afternoon, and when queried whether anyone wanted more outdoor training a decided no was the response. A smart group! The evening culminated with war stories of Everest and beyond. Now that we're back in our old sleeping bags the weather gods are unleashing a tempest like no other. All we can hope is that this big bad storm is blowing itself out. Dreams of a pleasant descent tomorrow morning might allow some well deserved sleep tonight. Goodnight from Camp Muir. RMI Guide Brent Okita
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