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RMI Expeditions Blog


Mt. Rainier: Winter Seminar Team Training at Camp Muir

Everyone is doing great on day four of our seminar. A hard day up to Muir was followed by a full day of training on Tuesday in increasingly challenging weather conditions. Today dawned sunny but quite windy. As forecasted, the winds stayed strong throughout the day. Not being one to let a little wind get in the way of some great training, we did have to moderate our plans to cope with the 40-45 mph sheets of blowing snow that swept thru Muir all day. Sticking close to camp allowed us to bail back to the bunkhouse for the occasional break. There were no complaints about not getting out on the glacier for the day. An earlier exploration by Mike and me proved the winds were just as strong out there as at camp. Anchors, crevasse rescue, fixed rope work and rappelling filled the day completely. And for the evening: mountain medicine and mountain weather is on the docket. We're looking forward to another good day of training tomorrow, though we might have to deal with another little storm to keep us honest. Alas, I'm afraid a summit bid has been shelved due to the increasing avalanche hazard up high. We're safe here at camp, and that's how we'd like to keep it. All for now. The crew at Muir
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Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar led by Okita and King

RMI Guides Brent Okita and Mike King are back on Mt. Rainier along with climbers on the Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter. The team gathered at Rainier BaseCamp on Sunday for a day of technical training, gear checks and packing. With clear roads on Monday morning they headed for Paradise and made the push all the way to Camp Muir. Today the team trained near Camp Muir with cramponing, rope travel and ice axe arrest practice while Brent and RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli kicked in the route above Camp Muir and investigated the current conditions. The team will continue training this week with the hope of making a summit attempt before their return on Friday.
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Wow such beautiful pictures. Thank you for the update!

Posted by: Lisa Macchione on 4/16/2019 at 5:43 pm


Mountaineering Training | High Intensity Interval Training

High Intensity Interval Training, often referred to popularly as HIIT training, have been featured in a few recent studies that concluded that a short HIIT workout was as or more effective at promoting cardiovascular health than steady state activity. The first paragraph of a recent New York Times article reads:

Think you’re too busy to work out? We have the workout for you. In minutes, high-intensity interval training (HIIT) will have you sweating, breathing hard and maximizing the health benefits of exercise without the time commitment. Best of all, it’s scientifically proven to work.

Despite the recent attention, interval training is not anything new to seasoned athletes and coaches who have understood the benefits of repetitive high intensity workouts for a long time. Many of the recent studies have focused on previously sedentary people trying to improve basic cardiovascular health, rather than on elite athletes striving towards a performance goal. With that said, we have and continue to encourage climbers to utilize interval training (by it’s nature high intensity) as part of a well-designed training program.

Interval training can accomplish a wide array of tasks and works best when the focus of a workout is clear:

Longer intervals, from 5 to 8 minutes, at 70 – 85% of max heart rate work to improve the lactate threshold, the body’s ability to metabolize and clear lactate build up from muscle cells, increasing the amount of work that the body can perform sustainably. A good example is an elite level marathon runner, who is able to sub six-minute miles for over two hours during a race. The intensity that they are working at is very high, yet the body is able to sustain it over a very prolonged period of time.

Shorter intervals, from 20 seconds to a few minutes, performed at 85 – 95% of max heart rate (very intense!) increase the body’s anaerobic threshold, it’s ability to perform work while in oxygen deficit. Think Olympic swimmer in the 50-meter butterfly: the intensity that they race at surpasses the body’s ability to clear lactic acid and to provide enough oxygen to the muscle cells for them to continue that pace for a long period of time. The race is very short, however, and for that 20-something seconds, their muscles are able to put out an immense amount of power in oxygen deficit.

It may seem as though interval training isn’t as applicable to our sport of mountaineering. We tend not to sustain the very high levels of output, but instead operate for far longer periods at moderate intensity. It is the very definition of an endurance sport. Interval training provides other physiological adaptations however that go beyond the abilities of the skeletal muscles. Interval training is shown to increase cardiac output, by increasing the size of the left ventricle, the stroke volume and the overall contractility of the heart. Increased cardiac output supplies more blood to muscle cells, delivering more oxygen and removing more waste. Additionally, interval training has been shown to increase the size and density of mitochondria in the muscle cells. Mitochondria use oxygen to convert glucose to ATP (the cells’ energy source). Both of these adaptations help endurance athletes go longer, faster and with less effort, and ultimately help us in the mountains.

Interval training is harder on your body than traditional steady state workouts and requires longer to recover from as well. Therefore, too heavy of a focus on interval training can lead to overtraining and injury. More of a good thing isn’t necessarily better. It’s important to realize that a good training plan maintains a balance of high intensity workouts and lower intensity steady state workouts.

As part of the recent HIIT hype, people have championed the fact that HIIT gets more done in less time, even as little as 10 minutes. This may be true for an average person whose goal is to improve overall cardiac health, but for athletes working towards goals in the mountains, remember that there are no short cuts. Time invested in your training will lead to a more enjoyable and successful climb.

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Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here!

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Fantastic insights on integrating HIIT into rock climbing training! Your clear explanations make it effortless for novices like me to recognize the benefits. Thank you!

Posted by: Musclegaragefitness on 12/29/2023 at 4:15 am

Incorporating HIIT into mountain climbing education is a game-changer! Your insights supply a realistic method to elevating health for difficult terrains. Thanks for the treasured guidance!

Posted by: Rejesh raj on 12/18/2023 at 1:29 am


Everest BC Trek & Lobuche Climb: Dale and Team Finish Trek, Return to Lukla

A huge congratulations to this team for completing the Everest Base Camp Trek and Lobuche climb today. This has been an amazing and challenging expedition. We have seen the cutest red cheeked children, the world's highest mountains, and some good looking chocolate cake slices. We are fortunate to have embarked on this adventure and learned more about the world, one another, and ourselves. As we pulled into Lukla this evening, after many miles and long days, I realized how grateful I am for the positive energy of this team and the Nepali people who supported us along the way. We passed Zopkeos and porters with huge loads on their backs all working to make the trekker's and climber's experiences more enjoyable with coca cola, clean towels, and so much more. Sometimes people come to Nepal for the mountains, but the generosity and hospitality of the Nepali people is what everyone remembers. RMI Guide Christina Dale
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Everest BC Trek & Lobuche Climb: Dale & Team Enjoy Descent to Namche Bazaar

We are all getting tattoos of our favorite part of Nepal. A large hairy yak, a momo, and the summit of Lobuche. Forever, permanently inked on us. April fools. The truth is we had a huge day today and walked all the way from Lobuche to Namche. 44,800 steps said one phone. A long day. But now we are all fed and happy here in Namche Bazaar. Tomorrow we will leave the mountain country and head down to the Dudh Kosi River crossing 11 suspension bridges on our way back to Lukla. RMI Guide Christina Dale
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Everest BC Trek & Lobuche Climb: Dale’s Team Reaches the Lobuche Summit!

Congratulations to the strong and determined team for reaching the summit of Lobuche this morning at 11:30am (Nepal Standard Time). They earned every step to 20,000 feet in the Himalayas! RMI Guide Christina Dale
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So proud of you Michael and Bruce! Love you and miss you dearly Michael. Xoxo

Posted by: Rebekah Holman on 4/1/2019 at 8:50 am

Congrats! This is an incredible and amazing accomplishment! It looks like all those OTF double sessions paid off (Sherry and Ed). Safe travels back to us. Love you guys!  xo

Posted by: Colleen on 3/31/2019 at 6:13 pm


Everest BC Trek & Lobuche Climb: Dale & Team Ready for an Alpine Start

We are perched high above the Khumbu Glacier watching the clouds roll by. The hike to high camp was short but a challenging rocky scramble. Unfortunately, some of our team had to make the hardest decision in mountaineering and head downhill today. The health gods are not on our side this climb and a bad cough has hit us. Making the right decision in the mountains is always the safe decision. We are so proud as a team to have made it to Everest Basecamp together as one of the many highlights of the trip. The rest of us have fingers crossed for good weather for our alpine start and climb tomorrow. RMI Guide Christina Dale
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Good luck on the climb today! Stay safe and kick butt!

Posted by: Jordan Vanek on 3/30/2019 at 11:17 pm


Everest Base Camp Trek: Grom’s Team Arrives Safely Back to Kathmandu

Back safe and sound in Kathmandu! Well all most! Managed to get the team out of Lukla by the skin of our teeth. Sadly I wasn’t able to join them, only eight helicopter seats available for the nine of us. Hopefully tomorrow I’ll be able to join the crew. I’m sure everyone is enjoying the comforts at the Yak & Yeti Hotel, hot showers, good food, and the warm temps. It's been one amazing adventure with a great team and it will be sad to say goodbye, but we are all looking forward to getting back home to our loved ones. Thanks for following. RMI Guide Casey Grom and a happy crew
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Everest BC Trek & Lobuche Climb: Dale & Team at Lobuche High Camp

Hey, this is Christina Dale and team on Lobuche at high camp. We got up here today. Our Sherpas have set up a nice dining tent, a good cook set up and we are eating well. We did some training and we're hoping to get a little break in the weather and give the climb a go in the morning. Wish us luck. RMI Guide Christina Dale


RMI Guide Christina Dale checks in from Lobuche.

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Everest BC Trek & Lobuche Climb: Dale & Team Reach Everest Base Camp

Now that we've checked the big goal of Everest Basecamp our sights are set on climbing Lobuche. It is a 20,000-foot peak which towers above the Khumbu valley. Today we departed basecamp after a great breakfast of bacon and eggs, a welcome change. Basecamp accommodations are some of the nicest on the trail with hot showers and amazing food. As we headed down the trail we were impressed with the number of supplies heading up. We saw tables, an oven, and a large mattress all being carried on the backs of porters up to support the climbers. Tomorrow we head to high camp on Lobuche and position ourselves for a summit! Think clear calm skies. RMI Guide Christina Dale
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Woohoo! Very excited for your summit of Lobuche. Hoping for good weather!

Also, let Michael and Bruce know that Duke beat Virginia Tech in a close game. 75-73! On to the Elite 8! Go Duke!

Posted by: Katie F. on 3/29/2019 at 9:05 pm

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