RMI Expeditions Blog
We heard from our team members at high camp that the route has been fixed. They reported that that the route is a mixture of blue ice and snow. They have a fixed line all the way to the ridge. The ridge, however, is too dangerous to walk along due to poor snow quality. They are optimistic though that the team can make it onto the ridge and enjoy some beautiful views. We are all excited to get the chance to climb something. As for the rest of us today, we fixed our own rope in a gully outside of camp, that had some ice in it, to give the Nepali girls more practice before the real deal. They all did great, with one of them showing real potential in the mountains. Tomorrow we rest, to give our teammates that have been working so hard to put in a route, a well-deserved break. On Saturday the whole team will move up and try our hand.
All the best,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith
Another great day in the mountains! We reached for the second time the altitude of 5000 meters in our acclimatizing trek, going over
Renjo Pass. The views from the top of 4 of the 6 tallest mountains in the world, were astonishing and motivating. Descending to Thame was energizing as the air felt thicker.
We're now ready to switch gears, and start focusing on our first objective!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
After packing our packs, organizing our tents, and eating lunch, we were ready to head uphill. Unfortunately though, we have been stalled at Base Camp. Our team members at High Camp radioed down that they need more time and rope to fix the route. They said the route is a bit icy and not great snow, but they seem optimistic that we will be able to give it a whirl in a few days. Till then we will continuing hanging out at Base Camp, practicing more with the girls and going on hikes. It's a good thing it's so pretty here and one can easily occupy themselves.
Happy Halloween!
RMI Guide Hannah Smith
Good evening!
What a day we had... We trekked to the base of Cho Oyu, where the seldom expeditions that climb is south side set their Base Camp. Man we felt small! We also had the best views that any trekker can have of Everest and Lhotse together (without climbing any peak) from any trail in the Khumbu Region. But we had to work hard, as this was the team's first day above 5000m.
An uneventful return, and we were enjoying a nice dinner at our lodge by the shore of
Gokyo Lake. We're headed to bed, as another long day awaits tomorrow.
Stay tuned!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
Resting and training were the theme of today. We took time to practice using the ascenders and different techniques for descending the fixed line with the Nepali girls. They did a great job and are getting more excited for the climb ahead, as are the rest of the team. Rest days can seem long but the team is pretty creative in keeping busy. Some made jewelry, while others went to the big boulder, that we call our Nepali gym to work on abs and pull-ups. We ended the day with a delicious cherry cake for dessert. The cook has done an amazing job making us delicious breakfast, lunch, and dinners. Tomorrow we will find out from our team members at our high camp whether we move up or take another test day.
Buenos noches,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith
Namaste!
Another great day of terrible weather and awful landscapes... Just kidding. We are having an incredible time, as everyone's physiology is adapting seamlessly to the altitude of the Himalaya, and that allows for a better enjoyment of the trail, the views and cultural experience.
We just arrived to our lodge in
Gokyo at 4800m, and next to the Dudh Pokhari, a turquoise lake that bears the same name, and with Cho Oyu in the distance, the sixth tallest mountain of the world, a magical stay is guaranteed.
That's all for now!
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team
The team made a carry to our high camp at 15,400'. We will attempt to climb Edurne Peak in a few days. Tomorrow or perhaps the next day, three climbing Sherpa and two other team members will head back up to our high camp and begin putting up fixed line on the route. The entire route will be fixed from high camp. If they decide there is not enough rope or it is not possible, we will not climb. The team as a whole does not have enough experience to climb without the fixed line. The rest of the team will rest and do some training at basecamp tomorrow. Fingers crossed the weather remains good and the route can safely go.
Namaste,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith
Today was a day of strategy. Team members went on a scouting mission to see what our options are for climbing. We got good beta from a friend of ours Tyler, who also works for RMI. It was great catching up with him and hearing about their attempt at the South West face of Saipal. He gave us good information, that we might be putting into play. His team left Base Camp this afternoon, after spending almost a month here. For now our plan is to attempt an unclimbed peak, that has been named after our team member by the chairman of the region. Edurne peak will be a challenge for the team, with the Nepali girls being so new to climbing. A Sherpa team is going ahead of the group to try and put in fixed lines. We will see in the coming days if this route will be possible.
RMI Guide Hannah Smith
Hello again!
Here we are, just below 14,000' and everyone is feeling like a million roses.
We left Namche and got a step further up the hill under the best weather possible. The mountains continued to provide jaw dropping views at every corner, and having
Ama Dablam on sight for most of the day was rather motivating.
Yak caravans and rhododendron forests added a touch of authenticity to the Himalayan experience we're having.
Tomorrow we'll continue up, towards Gokyo, acclimatizing and kicking butt!
RMI Guide Elías and team
Good morning, afternoon or evening! The team went on an acclimatization hike today. We hiked up the drainage then gained a ridge to get a better view of the surrounding peaks. Saipal peak is more and more impressive the closer you get. There is a peak to the right of Saipal that we are considering pursuing. It too looks beautiful. The team will discuss this evening and tomorrow on what we should do. Everyone's duffles should arrive tomorrow, which the team is psyched for. Basecamp is cozy with dining tents, bathroom tent, and even a shower tent. We are living a pretty good life up here.
Talk to you all tomorrow,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith
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Good luck and safe climbing!
Posted by: Michelle the mom on 11/2/2018 at 8:32 am
Good luck team! Can’t wait to see some pictures.
Posted by: Shannon Smith on 11/1/2018 at 4:34 pm
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