RMI Expeditions Blog
Wow, after a couple hectic days in Talkeetna our crew finally completed packing all of the food, fuel, and assorted junk (but still expensive junk) that we'd need for our Denali expedition. We were greeted with fair skies and calm winds for our flight out to basecamp where after a hot meal we've settled in for the night. The crew is certainly eager and excited for the challenge and the hard work that lies ahead but is undoubtedly feeling slightly apprehensive. It's hard to imagine that one wouldn't be surrounded by such massive mountains on all sides. The weather tomorrow is calling for another sunny day and we plan to take full advantage by pushing a single carry out to the base of Ski Hill.
More news to come as the situation develops...
RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Gilbert Chase, Geoff Schellens, and the rest of the gang.
On The Map
After much discussion and hearing a favorable weather forecast for the next few days, we decided that an extra day at 11,000' was the best way for the group to rest and acclimate so we are strong for our move to 14,000'. We are looking to move tomorrow and are expecting good weather for pulling into camp.
As for today, we lazed around all morning in the posh, but had to move outside as the day progressed. It was way too hot to hang out in tents or the posh, a rare treat for a May Denali trip. I think today was just what the doctor ordered for us to move up in style tomorrow. Everyone is feeling strong, well-rested, and ready to camp in beautiful Genet Basin tomorrow night. We'll hopefully be checking in from 14,000' tomorrow.
Hope all is well at home,
RMI Guide Maile Wade and crew
On The Map
I forgot the birthday wish was for Maile
Posted by: Ginny on 5/18/2012 at 4:44 pm
Wow! sounds like all is going well. What a great please to have your birthday on the 19th! so HAPPY BIRTHDAY my girl I love you tons be safe
xoxoxoxoxo Mom
Posted by: Ginny on 5/18/2012 at 4:42 pm
Well today we began our day a little earlier than usual. We elected to go for a little glacier tour this morning and with how hot its been during the day the cool temps felt nice. We went to the base of Annie's Ridge and had a little glaciology talk from a rad location. On the walk back we saw a big ice fall release on Mt. Foraker which was lovely, they are always impressive no matter how many times you see them.
We chilled out this afternoon hiding from the afternoon sun. We regrouped for a crevasse rescue station. Everyone is sending and building mechanical advantage systems to haul climbers skyward. We are also organizing our gear for a move tomorrow up towards Kahiltna Dome which sits at 12,525'. If the weather plays nice, hopefully we will be back in 4 days.
RMI Guide Jason Thompson
On The Map
Hi, This is Dave Hahn calling from Mt. Everest Base Camp, Nepal.
We are still in our waiting game. Conditions appear to have calmed down as predicted today and we hope tomorrow. There are teams posed at the South Col tonight, including a team of Sherpa looking to fix the route to the summit tomorrow. That would be pretty significant, obviously. We are rooting for those guys and hoping they get good weather. But still, this particular weather window is a little too short and a little too busy with people for us. So we are biding our time here and looking very carefully at the forecast for better weather in a few more days. That requires us to be down here at the base of the mountain a few days longer. So, we are just biding our time. We are exercising and going hiking each day, playing games and trying to keep from going crazy. We are looking forward better conditions in a few days and a summit bid.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in from Everest Base Camp, May 17th.
On The Map
All the Best to all the Teams.
Posted by: Ajay Godbole on 5/18/2012 at 3:12 am
Wishing you all benevolence from the weather gods.
Thanks for the dispatches.
Stay safe, stay strong.
Posted by: Bill Horn on 5/17/2012 at 7:42 pm
Hi all!
We are back at 11,000' camp after a successful and gorgeous carry to cache gear at 13,500 ft, just past Windy Corner. When we woke this morning it looked like Windy Corner might live up to it's name; banners of snow were flying high off the nearby peaks from a strong north wind. We had a great smoked salmon breakfast and dragged our feet in camp for a bit to see if the wind would die, and it played ball! The carry was warm and calm, and the group moved great, happy to be free of our sleds, and to have lighter loads.
The weather forecast is sounding stellar for the next handful of days. We're going to make a game time decision tomorrow morning whether to move to the 14,000' camp or stay one more day at 11,000'. We'll let you know!
That's all for now; we're going to crawl into our warm down bags and get some shut eye.
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer and the crew
On The Map
Sounds like a great time! Please give my best to Nick.
Pam
Posted by: Pam on 5/17/2012 at 7:35 pm
Keep going.
Posted by: Richard Coleman on 5/17/2012 at 7:06 pm
Well hello all.
Last week temperatures were frigid. I am happy to say today was downright balmy. We'll take it.
We spent our entire day today going over some critical information. Laying the ground work for crevasse rescue. A lot of information was downloaded and everyone seemed to grasp the concepts. Knots, anchors, rappelling into a crevasse, self extrication from a crevasse were some of our topics on this beautiful day.
Kahiltna Base Camp is getting busier by the day. More and more climbers are showing up to head up Denali, other friends are finding success on various routes on the Mini Moon Flower and the North Buttress of Mt Hunter with this current stretch of superb weather.
Word on the street is temperatures are about to get really hot the next few days. We will let you know how that plays out.
Everyone is doing great and says hello.
RMI Guide Jason Thompson
On The Map
Hi Eric-
See you in a couple of weeks!
Posted by: Larry Seaton on 5/17/2012 at 10:38 pm
Posted by: Brent Okita, Casey Grom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
SUMMIT!
Our first Five Day Summit Climb of the 2012 Season reached the top of Mt. Rainier this morning. RMI Guides Brent Okita and Casey Grom and their teams reported clear skies and moderate winds. They began their descent at 7:30 a.m. and are en route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's team.
Hello from the Alaska Range,
We departed Talkeetna this afternoon and the flight onto the glacier was spectacular, no one was disappointed. We quickly set up our camp on the SE fork of the Kahiltna Glacier and are beginning to adjust to glacier living. The weather is splendid.
We are looking forward to beginning our training tomorrow and will let you know how it goes.
RMI Guide Jason Thompson
On The Map
Watching Blaine go to the top…...
Posted by: lee on 5/17/2012 at 12:13 pm
Rich, Amazing pictures, looking forward to more. I wish I was up there with you, but I am enjoying watching the progree from my couch! Stay safe and make every day epic!
Posted by: Erik on 5/16/2012 at 4:56 pm
We had a great day yesterday, and moved our camp up to 11,200'. The weather was perfect for climbing, and we made swift progress up the Kahiltna Glacier towards Kahiltna Pass. We arrived in camp and spent a few hours establishing our camp, as we will be staying here for a few nights. With all of our gear moved in to the 11,200' camp, we are in a great position, and we will spend the day resting and acclimating. We are planning to carry a cache of supplies up to Windy Corner (13,600') tomorrow, so we're looking forward to a lazy day today. The weather looks great the next few days, and our team is feeling strong. We're right on schedule as we start staging on to the upper mountain.
We'll be in touch again soon.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Happy Belated Birthday Carl! We all hope you’re having lots of fun. Hope it’s not too cold.
Posted by: Crystal on 5/17/2012 at 8:50 am
Bernie, don’t slow the team down. Steak & Lobs part II waiting for you when you get back to NYC.
Posted by: Tom Hogan on 5/17/2012 at 8:49 am
It is the middle of May and the wait for fine weather on Mount Everest continues. Many climbers have started up the mountain so as to be in position should a break come in the next few days. A combination team of Sherpas from several expeditions is bound for the South Col now, hoping to be able to fix the ropes to the top when the wind dies. Our team is obviously hoping that the fixing effort succeeds and that those lining up for a first shot at the top get their shot. We aren't eager to be in that first run though. The weather window is forecasted to be short and the climbers are many, so we will instead take our chances on whatever more substantial break comes afterward. But the waiting is difficult. We are all healthy and feeling strong and we've now been down and resting for some time. We want to climb soon and it is difficult to hold back when others are going for it, but our judgment is that a little more patience is called for to fully accomplish our goals. We are each feeling the frustrations of being in a dead-end valley where the only real outlet is a journey through the Khumbu Icefall. It doesn't make much sense to go through that jumble simply for exercise and so we repeatedly backtrack down the trail toward Gorak Shep, taking on more sensible and vastly safer hiking goals like Kalapathar and Pumori Camp One. Our hope in doing these hikes is that our legs and lungs will be ready for the real thing and that daily hikes will keep our brains from fretting over the wait. It is sometimes a little difficult for us to remember that these 19,000 feet "hikes" in the midst of spectacular peaks and glaciers would be lifetime goals for many and that we are extremely lucky to be living in this place... But of course we are preoccupied with the top vertical mile or so of Mt. Everest right now.
Winds are still raking the upper peaks and ridges and temperatures still seem a bit lower than normal for mid-May. Our walks and scrambles on the glacier adjacent to Basecamp reveal slightly less runoff than we'd consider normal. We choose to view this positively in that the Khumbu Icefall won't get up to its full speed while things remain remain cool.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
dave- i had the pleasure of you serving as my guide in sept 98 on an ascent of Rainier. I wish you good weather, health and most importantly- safety. Suerte amigo!
Posted by: david.mendel on 5/17/2012 at 11:58 am
Have you met my friend Moshi Wilfred from Tanzania yet? He’s probably the tallest guy on the mountain.
Best of health and well-being during your climb.
Posted by: Ellen on 5/17/2012 at 11:00 am
Hi Brandi and Elizabeth its time to put all that prep to work. I’m sure that there is a lot of hard work ahead but remember to take some time to enjoy it all along the way.
Miss you Poo. -Chris
Posted by: Chris on 5/19/2012 at 10:32 am
Hi Gilbert-
Plow that road for me! We’ll cross paths in a couple of weeks. Looking forward to seeing you again (do you still have that boyfriend?)
Posted by: Larry Seaton on 5/18/2012 at 9:29 pm
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