RMI Expeditions Blog
Our team had a great day today, putting in a cache at 13,700' at Windy Corner. We returned to a day time schedule, and enjoyed a warm and sunny day today. The weather is beautiful here at the 11,000' camp tonight; there is blue sky above, clouds below, and no wind. We're all in our sleeping bags and looking forward to a good night's rest.
If the weather is good tomorrow morning we are planning to move our camp up to 14,200'. We are feeling ready and are looking forward to the challenge of tomorrow. That's it for now...time to get some zzzz...
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Today we purposely awoke early for our carry to the top of the headwall. Our intentions to provide the team with the flavor of the frigid temperatures of Denali in anticipation of what a summit day will feel like, were embraced by every team member. Four hours later we dug our cache atop the fixed lines and returned in a speedy mode to our camp at Genet Basin to enjoy ourselves practicing our favorite sports of "eating and napping". Everybody is excited for our move tomorrow to 17 camp and the upcoming launching. Regards!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
On The Map
The day is coming to a close and things are back the way they were at the start of the trip. Our tents are laying here and our sleeping bags in the thick, moist air. It's tough to imagine that we were at 20,320 feet just the day before yesterday.
Thank you for all of your continued support as we took on Denali successfully. I realize how much it took both on the mountain and at home. Again, thank you. The amateur summiteer.
Thanks to all who continue to support my crazy adventures!! Your positive vibes and supportive thoughts mean more than you'll ever know! I return from the highest peak in North America simultaneously proud and humbled!! Michael C
Thanks to my family and friends and especially my wonderful wife Megan for supporting me in this adventure. It is difficult to describe the feeling of humbleness inspired by the the grandeur, majesty and (not least of all) weather of the Alaska Range. The seasoned judgment of TJ, Eric and Logan truly kept us alive and (mostly) comfortable. I cannot thank them enough. MJB
Thanks to all the friends and family for the awesome support! Despite the fact I was unable to make the summit the trip was amazing and will certainly be unforgettable. Much appreciation goes to the best guides anywhere for their judgement. "climbing mountains ain't easy"... The mountain won this time but I'll be back again! CPL
Thanks to all my family, friends, and business associate for supporting my " habit". The summit of North America is an amazing place. Our RMI guides are the best - Tyler, Eric and Logan !!!!
LWS
Belle expedition. Merci RMI. Merci a tous pour vos blog.
N
Now that the day is coming to a close, things are looking eerily similar to the way they did before we left. Tents and gear have been dried. Gear is slightly dirtier, but once again prepared for air travel. It would seem to the unknowing observer, that nothing has happened other than a few mild sunburns.
As the warm rain arrives in Talkeetna, the group runs for cover indoors. It's nice to be dry when it rains and warm when it's cold outside without to much effort. That said, there was something nice about even the coldest days on the mountain. As guides, we hope out clients feel the same way. Like proud parents, we have enjoyed the time we spent with the team as they grew. We have seen the group grow together and grow as individuals. We hope that this growth will have some relevance even in the dry and warm front country.
Thanks to our clients for their time, energy, patience and passion. The guide team hopes to work together and with members of our 2012 Denali trip soon. Weather this trip was the first big expedition or the last, we hope team members will keep trying new things, keep climbing mountains, or at least stay in touch.
The summit was great, but the team was better. Thanks guys,
RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Eric Frank and Logan Randolph
On The Map
Well Done Tyler & Team ! Congratulations!
Posted by: mark skinner on 6/20/2012 at 4:18 pm
Great job Tyler, Larry, and team!!
Posted by: Paul Kinneberg on 6/19/2012 at 10:03 am
The word "team" is what we are; the confidence and style this team has possessed has been outstanding. Team Jones/Frank/Randolph is excited to be in base camp on the Southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier.
We woke up a number of times through last night to gusty winds and white-out conditions at 11k camp. The guides choice was to wait the weather out. Denali was again giving our group another challenge. The team solved this one with some rest and a long pancake breakfast.
An afternoon clearing provided motivation for an evening walk, our final walk that provided everything from blowing snow to pristine clear skies. The sunset reeled us in toward the north face of Mt. Hunter lit in the soft evening light completing our final push to Kahiltna Basecamp at 7,800 ft.
While conditions look prime at base camp and it looks like we will fly out tomorrow, we don't want to count our chickens before they hatch. You never know what Denali, or as we have called her "De-Gnarly," has in store for us.
Laying here in our sleeping bags in the thick, moist air, it's tough to imagine that we were at 20,320 feet just the day before yesterday.
The crew is ready to celebrate our safe and successful summit with the loved ones that allowed us to be in Alaska for this journey. Thank you family and friends for the support. This journey to the top of North America and back has been a long and never to be forgotten experience. We look forward to recalling our time spent in the mountains with a dinner out wearing sandals and shorts along with being back on turf with trees, rivers, and just plain dirt in Talkeetna.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
On The Map
Congratulations JB and team for the strong and safe summit of Denali! Your friends here at AMC are anxious to here the details and wish you good weather for the flight off.
Posted by: Rick on 6/19/2012 at 12:42 pm
That was a fast descent.Thank you Tyler, Eric and Logan for bringing everybody back down Denali in good spirit and shape!
À bientôt Nicolas!
Posted by: louise on 6/18/2012 at 1:40 pm
Due to winter like conditions on Mt. Rainier this morning both the Four Day Summit Climb Team led by Seth Waterfall and the Five Day Summit Climb Team Led by Gabriel Barral were forced to turn near Disappointment Cleaver. The teams are safely back at Camp Muir and we expect a early afternoon return to Ashford Basecamp today.
Glad to hear your safe and sound RiRi!! Come see us in Boston again soon! :)
Posted by: Eryn on 6/19/2012 at 7:05 am
Nige, sorry the weather was against you :-( really thought you were in with a chance after them making it on Sunday .. safe trip home, see you Friday
Posted by: Zoe on 6/19/2012 at 12:47 am
Happy Father's Day to all the Dads in the lowlands!
After our day of training, we were raring to go carry up the fixed lines. Packed up, alarms set but when we woke the wind was blowing and the snow was swirling. Dragging our feet provided little clarity, with the basin clearing out just enough to show high winds on the West Buttress. Tough to establish a trend, but we decided to wait another day here at 14 Camp. It ended up being a good call as the clouds regained control of camp and it has snowed heavily since.
Armed with an optimistic forecast, we plan to carry tomorrow and get in position for a move as soon as we can. Wish us luck down there and enjoy the day celebrating all the Fathers.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
Congratulations, what an accomplishment!!!
Posted by: Dan H on 6/21/2012 at 5:25 pm
Hi Jim and Halsey,
Just checking in to see where you are! Looks very exciting. Can’t wait to hear all about it.
Love,
Ruth
Posted by: Ruth on 6/18/2012 at 10:49 pm
Posted by: Brent Okita, Leon Davis, Lindsay Mann
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 358'
We all finally got off the glacier yesterday afternoon as our flight service, K2, did a wonderful job getting everyone out when conditions seemed like they might close in and shut down flights.
After a remarkable twelve days at 17,200', we are all skinny and inhaled large portions of meat, fish, and beer last night. I write this last dispatch as we are riding to the airport to return home to loved ones, and put this remarkable trip behind us.
Huge kudos go out to a very strong and committed team of climbers, and to two incredible guides, Leon Davis and Lindsay Mann, who worked so hard to make this trip safe and enjoyable, and who were there at the end when the climbing got really tough and the mountain could not have been harsher.
That's all for this year. I need to see my wife and play with the dog. And I'm sure the lawn needs mowing. Thanks for following us on this unprecedented trip. I'll be back next year for a shorter, and less exciting expedition.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Congratulations to all of you. Amazing accomplishment!
Posted by: The Parella Family on 6/18/2012 at 5:41 am
12 Days At 17.2k has to be some kind of record! What tenacity & an epic climb.
I leave Tues for my turn—have to be honest, hope we’re not stuck up at high camp that long—but you all have paved the way.
TM
Posted by: Tim McLaughlin on 6/17/2012 at 10:26 pm
Happy Fathers Day from our Denali crew! We're just checking in from our new home at 11,200'. We moved up here yesterday in nice weather, but shortly after we arrived the winds picked up and it started to snow lightly. The gusty winds and snow continued thru the night, but it seems to be calming down this morning. We're not too concerned though, because we are planning to take a full rest day today. We deserve it after 3 hard days of carrying heavy packs and pulling sleds up to 11k.
We enjoyed seeing Tyler Jones and the RMI June 5th Denali crew here at camp as they are descending after a successful summit. They are eager to get back to base camp and fly back to Talkeetna. But unfortunately the current weather is making them drag their feet and hang here in camp.
We'll be in touch again soon...
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Hope you guys brought plenty of crackers
Posted by: Tony on 6/20/2012 at 10:52 am
This message is from ontario canada. we’re so proud of you ashley and so happy you and your team are safe. a moment in history for you all!!!! congratulations!
with love anick
Posted by: anick mohan on 6/19/2012 at 6:58 pm
7:55 a.m. - JJ Justman and the Four Day Summit Climb reached the Mt. Rainier summit! The weather was better than he had expected when the team started their ascent this morning. They are spending a little time on top and will begin their descent shortly. Congratulations team!
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz led by Mike Haugen starts their four days on the mountain today. Good luck to them as they train and make a summit bid on the Kautz Route.
JJ, congratulations to you and your team. Perhaps the Cascades Winter is finally loosening her hold on the great one. Safe descent to all.
Posted by: Everett Moran on 6/18/2012 at 8:24 am
Nigel , I hope you had a great time.
Safe trip home.
Posted by: Pete Bowes on 6/18/2012 at 4:35 am
Posted by:
Categories: Guide News
It's June already. Do you have a Mount Rainier climb planned this summer? If so, you are probably at the peak of your training efforts and devoting a good amount of energy and time to preparing your body for the big climb. Many people ask, "What's the most important thing for training right now?"
If you are less than a week away from your climb, you'll want to rest. By all means, do some activity — but just enough to keep you moving — not so much that you arrive fatigued. You'll want to maximize your sleep and relaxation this week. Also, be sure that you're eating plenty of carbohydrates to ensure you start the climb with a full tank.
If your climb is still a few weeks or even months away, then you have a great opportunity to add to your endurance.
I like to keep things simple. My recommendation to people training for mountaineering is to include at least one long hike each week. How long? Well, your summit day will start in the middle of the night and you may well be climbing and descending for upwards of 14 hours. So, it's important to condition yourself to be on your feet for that long.
Practically, if you live near Mt. Rainier you can train on any number of long steep hikes in the area, or even hike up to Camp Muir for practice. One big weekly hike is my minimum, but if you can you'll benefit from back-to-back days of hiking, or maybe even sneak in a midweek hike as well. A man I know was out of shape with only two months to go before his Mt. Rainier climb. He realized he was behind on his training, took vacation time, and hiked Mt. Si, near Seattle, eighteen times in one month! I thought it was a bit extreme and advised him to pay attention to his knees and joints, but he did it — and he made it all the way to the summit and back.
If you live in a flat city you can still get in good training. I've done urban hikes before to get in condition for a climb. Once, when I was getting ready for a big climb while I lived in London, UK, I would put a metal weight and some water-bottles in a pack and walk all day, stopping at restaurants to eat and visiting the occasional museum. It's fun and a great way to see a city. This winter in Seattle I set a goal of walking three miles each day. It's great for the feet, legs, and back and it's easy to plan to walk places instead of driving. Arrive at work or a friend's house and tell them you walked — you'll inspire them too! It might be tough to get elevation in flatter regions, but don't let that stop you from building endurance.
If you can't hike or walk anywhere then bicycling is about as close as you can get to hiking as an alternative. It works the same energy-systems and many of the same muscle groups. If you do a lot of cycling, also do jumping exercises, perhaps even get a jump-rope and use it for a few minutes every day. That will help with the coming-down part of the climb. Cycling builds strength and endurance but doesn't replicate the impact of stepping down. The combination of both is very effective.
Top three tips for June:
1. Make the main thing - the main thing: It's a long endurance climb with a 35lb pack. Go long in training and wear a pack when possible.
2. Back up your long hikes with shorter sessions: 60 - 90 minute efforts at a higher intensity. Stairs, stair-master, elliptical machine, cycling or spin class are good options.
3. Mix up your training: Some long and steady 'conversational' pace sessions; some hard and steady; some intervals of 1 minute of very hard effort followed by 1 minute of rest.
A parting thought: I used to get close to a climb and worry that I hadn't done enough of this or of that. Right now you've done what you've done. Its best to take out a calendar, figure out how many long hikes you can fit in, block out those time and then use the other days for shorter sessions. Take a day or two of rest as well, you'll benefit from doing so. As the guides will tell you on the mountain, don't worry about tomorrow or next week, just focus on now. Focus on how you can complete — and enjoy — today's workout. You've trained hard and what you do now will make a difference on the mountain.
Good luck.
John Colver
Author of Fit By Nature by Mountaineers Books.
www.adventx.com
For more information please see our resources for mountaineering fitness and training.
Treadmills and stair machines only work your legs against the earth’s gravity, not your entire body’s weight or even the weight in the pack. They also don’t really do much for the downstroke of the leg, just the upstroke. It’s Newtonian mechanics, guys.
Posted by: borisjimski on 7/4/2012 at 1:30 am
Bodyworks, which partners with AAI, says that one needs to be able to go on a treadmill at 15 degrees for 45 minutes at 3.5 mph with a 40-pound pack in order to be in sufficient shape to climb Mt. Ranier. There is no way I can do that. Are they exaggerating? On a good day I can go at 15 degrees at 2.5 mph for 45 min with no weight.
Posted by: Larry on 6/19/2012 at 6:45 am
Fingers still crossed, for good weather conditions and an extra bit of good luck for your team. Crispi, Pass auf dich auf, und wenn du ganz oben stehst, dann schau und genieße für uns mit. Küsschen, SF.
Posted by: Susann and Frank on 6/20/2012 at 2:12 pm
Ross and K, Getting closer. An expert guide one time told me that mountain climbing is a lot about chillin so if you need to sit near the top it can be tough but know your about vertical 17000 ft and four thousand miles closer than any of us writing you.
I had one hell of a couple of weeks and have continually thought about the mountains. I wish I was able to make the trip with you guys but as I said I collided with fate here, I needed to be here.
Can’t wait to hear more from you guys and the progress.
Dave
Carla- Kanitta lost her phone a while back and now we only have Ross’ cell number. Call us :0)
Posted by: dave kolar on 6/19/2012 at 9:56 pm
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