RMI Expeditions Blog
We went to bed last evening to a blue bird sky after nearly 8 inches of new snow during the day. Today we woke to the same, blue bird weather and light wind. The crew broke camp at 14K fairly early, in good fashion, and headed on our way to the fixed lines. The clear sky made for a bone chilling morning until the major work up the lines started and we were greeted by the welcome rays of the sun, which warmed our souls. The West Buttress was windless and by far provided us with the best views and exposure the team has faced. The clear day gave us views over 10,000' below to the lower Kahiltna Glacier, while Denali stood proud and urged us higher. It was as good as it gets; in fact several folks said it was their best day climbing ever. We climbed for more than six hours so the the team is definitely enjoying some down time while trapping some evening heat in the tents.
With a bit of luck from the weather and wind we will shoot for a summit in the AM on the 17th. Thank you all for the warm wishes - the team has greatly enjoyed all the comments. Keep the positive vibes. We will report back soon.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones and team!
On The Map
After waiting at the airstrip in Talkeetna all morning due to socked in conditions at basecamp, the sky cleared and off to the mountain we flew. We arrived to beautiful weather at our basecamp on the Kahiltna Glacier.
We set up camp, did some crevasse rescue practice, ate dinner, and prepared our sleds. Currently, we are tucked away in our tents trying to sleep through the midnight sun before our very early departure up the frozen glacier to 7,800 ft.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
Hello, this is Jake Beren with the RMI Mt. McKinley Expedition calling from 14,000’ camp. We arrived here yesterday and are happy in our brand new home and happy place. Before moving camp we made a carry the day before with our gear.
The team is looking great, very strong as we climbed yesterday. We arrived late afternoon and set up shop.
Today we are going to do a little bit of training and potentially make a back carry to pick up our cache. So all's well here, it’s a beautiful sunny day here in the Genae Basin. We are looking up at the fixed lines.
The RMI Team lead by Tyler Jones made their move to 17,000’ camp this morning and are just doing great and heading up the West Buttress as we speak.
So, that's all from 14,000’ on Mt. McKinley. It's great to be here with a good crew. We'll be checking in the future.
This is Jake, Mike, Gilbert and team standing by at 14,000’.
The RMI Four Day Summit Climbs June 13 - 16 led by Win Whittaker and Nate Disser reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. At 7:25 a.m. PT the teams were beginning their descent from the crater rim. They reported cold temperatures and high winds. They were enjoying clear skies with a cloud deck below them around 7,000'.
The Expedition Skill Seminar - Emmons led by Jason Thompson also reached the summit this morning via the Emmons Glacier. Their team arrived at the top of the crater around 8:25 a.m. PT and were enjoying some warm sunshine after a cold and windy ascent. The team will return to Camp Schurman for their final night on the mountain and some additional training.
Congratulations to the teams!
Hello from Talkeetna, Alaska,
Our McKinley Expedition June 14th team met in Anchorage on Tuesday, June 14th, since then we have spent time shopping, packing food, gear, and other necessities, and meeting with the National Park Service. Our gear is organized and packed and we are all set to fly tomorrow (Thursday, June 16th). The weather has not been clear for several days so there are many teams waiting to fly to/from the Kahiltna Glacier. The weather has not begun to clear and planes are flying.
Our chances look good to fly onto the mountain tomorrow. Wish us luck!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
Climbing a mountain like Denali is different than smaller peaks. On shorter trips to lower altitudes, climbers can push to their physical and mental limits, with slightly less potential consequences. Here, though, it's imperative that climbers be at their peak strength, and that they are mentally prepared for the challenges of the cold, the altitude, and the difficulty of the route. With those considerations as well as a less than ideal weather forecast, we decided to take a rest day at 14,200' today. While the team performed well on yesterday's carry, we all could benefit from some more chilling and sport eating.
So we started our day late, with a bodacious breakfast of egg, bacon, and cheese burritos with salsa and hot sauce. Hot coffee rounded out our top-flight mountain café experience. The team is currently resting in the tents and working through excess lunch food, playing cards and reading. So we sit and wait in a state of relaxed anticipation, ready to spring into action as soon as we have ideal weather. Send us your vibes for more sunny, calm days!
Until tomorrow,
Tyler Jones, Garett Stevens, Erik Endert & the crew
RMI's Four Day Summit Climb June 12 - 15 led by Casey Grom and Five Day Summit Climb June 11 - 15 led by J.J. Justman reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. They encountered high winds, cold temperatures and light snow. The teams were starting their descent from the crater rim at 7:45 a.m. PT.
RMI Guide Mike Walter and his team on the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz are completing their program today. They had a great week of training on Mt. Rainier and were able to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier yesterday via the Kautz Glacier route. This morning the team will break camp and hike a few hours down to Paradise.
Congratulations to the RMI Teams!
Armed with last night's forecast, we woke early this morning for our planned carry from camp here at 14,200' to the top of the fixed lines. By 7:15, we were underway, and within 2 hours we were climbing the most technical terrain so far. Using our ascenders and solid climbing techniques, we gained ground quickly and without incident to 16,200ft, where we stashed some of our luggage for the upcoming push to high camp.
Even though the weather today hasn't been as nice as previous days, it was still a good day for moving on the mountain. Light winds, light snow, and high clouds kept the temps fairly low, but everyone's hands and feet stayed warm and toasty as we made our way up and back to camp.
The crew continues to impress with the strength and motivation they display, and we're all fully stoked to be in position to launch for the upper mountain as soon as we have the ideal weather window. For the remainder of the day today, though, it's resting and recovery after the morning's climb.
Thinking warm thoughts from 14,000ft...
RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Erik Endert, Garrett Stevens and the team
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall with the Four Day Summit Climb June 11 - 14 called early this morning from Camp Muir. The team was forced to abort their summit bid due to high winds today. The team will be descending from Camp Muir to Paradise this morning.
Today we slept until the sun crested the West Rib of Denali, quickly warming the zero degree nip of the night. Another great bacon, bagel and coffee breakfast with stories around the posh house quickly lead to the post noon hour. The team had a few hours to rest and hydrate. The afternoon brought training for the fixed lines and running belays we'll encounter on our final carry tomorrow. The crew is very excited to be in the final preparations leading to our summit bid, hopefully a few days from now.
The weather continues to be absolutely wonderful. Keep the positive vibrations coming our way and we'll be in touch soon.
RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, & Erik Endert
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Great news about the bluebird sky and good luck on the climb for the summit. Craig just to let you know Emma has been following you and the crew and now her 6th grade class are following your adventure and you and your team are included in their daily “special intention” prayers. The class will be following you on this blog. Good luck we are all so proud of you.
Posted by: The Doyles on 6/17/2011 at 7:54 pm
Congratulations to the whole team on reaching the summit. a special congrats to Tim and Justin. Our thoughts and prayers will be with all of you on your descent.
Love Pat and Lori
Posted by: pat and Lori Halls on 6/17/2011 at 7:48 pm
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