Entries By andres marin
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Categories: Guide News
RMI Guides Andres Marin and Katie Bono spent a week leading RMI's Alaska Alpine Skills Seminar this spring. After the seminar they returned to the Alaska Range for a personal climbing trip.
Andres Marin: I guided the Alpine and Expedition seminars in Alaska, where our teams had an incredible time climbing and learning. When the seminars ended, I had a few days to spend climbing around Base Camp.
Katie Bono: Both Andres and I had time at the end of our trip for some personal climbing. We bid adieu to our team in Talkeetna and the next morning flew back into Kahiltna Base Camp.
Kahiltna Base Camp sits in the heart of the Alaska Range, surrounded on all sides by peaks such as Denali, Mt. Foraker, and Mt. Hunter. With the plethora of climbing options the pair decided to climb the Kahiltna Queen (12,380’).
AM: Around Base Camp there are so many cool peaks to climb and one of those is the rarely climbed Kahiltna Queen. This peak is located at the end of the southeast fork of the Kahiltna glacier. It is the only peak in the range that divides three different glaciers: the Kahiltna, the Ruth and the Tokositna.
KB: Andres and I spent a day skiing up the Southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, stopping along the way to look at different climbing options and to do some ice climbing. Kahiltna Queen looked like a gorgeous peak to climb and both of us were stoked about trying an unclimbed route.
The following night Katie and Andres began their climb up the West side of the Kahiltna Queen.
KB: The line we took followed a rib splitting the west face, starting from where the rib emerged from the glacier. The part of the climb was mostly steep snow climbing on some great and not-so-great neve (granular snow that accumulates near mountain tops from wind and precipitation). The route then transitions into ice climbing with some rock mixed in.
AM: The mixed climbing was great all the way to the summit. The day was incredible and the views were just amazing. At the top we stopped to melt water and high five. Then it was time for us to start descending the West Couloir Route. The descent ended up being longer and more difficult than I expected as we had to do over fourteen rappels.
Following the successful climb, Katie and Andres, skied two hours back to Base Camp. After 25 hours of climbing they returned safely to Base Camp.
KB: Seeing the moonrise while we were climbing was awesome! It came up for maybe an hour or so and just skimmed the edge of the horizon. For the whole way up we had splitter weather and were basking in the sun at the summit. After this trip I can definitely understand why my friends are excited about Alaska. It was great to be able to climb the Kahiltna Queen after guiding the Alaska Seminar since it enabled me to spend so much time in the Alaska Range. Andres has heaps of experience in the Alaska Range and I learned a lot from working and climbing with him.
AM: All and all it was a great climb with a great partner. I am already looking forward to next year’s seminar and more personal climbs in the Alaska Range.
Andres Marin is a senior guide at RMI leading programs in Washington, Alaska and Colorado. He is an off-width specialist and an accomplished ice and mixed climber. One of his recent achievements includes climbing the five hardest mixed lines in Ouray, Colorado, in a day. Andres is a fully certified alpine and rock guide sponsored by Millet, Blue Water Ropes, 5.10, Petzl, GU and Ice Holdz.
Katie Bono is an RMI Guide and accomplished climber with impressive ascents in North America and Canada. A retired Nordic ski racer and Millet athlete, she currently holds the women’s speed record on Mt. Rainier.
To see more of their climb check out Andres’ Kahiltna Queen video.
Kahiltna Base Camp sits in the heart of the Alaska Range, surrounded on all sides by peaks such as Denali, Mt. Foraker, and Mt. Hunter. With the plethora of climbing options the pair decided to climb the Kahiltna Queen (12,380’).
AM: Around Base Camp there are so many cool peaks to climb and one of those is the rarely climbed Kahiltna Queen. This peak is located at the end of the southeast fork of the Kahiltna glacier. It is the only peak in the range that divides three different glaciers: the Kahiltna, the Ruth and the Tokositna.
KB: Andres and I spent a day skiing up the Southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, stopping along the way to look at different climbing options and to do some ice climbing. Kahiltna Queen looked like a gorgeous peak to climb and both of us were stoked about trying an unclimbed route.
The following night Katie and Andres began their climb up the West side of the Kahiltna Queen.
KB: The line we took followed a rib splitting the west face, starting from where the rib emerged from the glacier. The part of the climb was mostly steep snow climbing on some great and not-so-great neve (granular snow that accumulates near mountain tops from wind and precipitation). The route then transitions into ice climbing with some rock mixed in.
AM: The mixed climbing was great all the way to the summit. The day was incredible and the views were just amazing. At the top we stopped to melt water and high five. Then it was time for us to start descending the West Couloir Route. The descent ended up being longer and more difficult than I expected as we had to do over fourteen rappels.
Following the successful climb, Katie and Andres, skied two hours back to Base Camp. After 25 hours of climbing they returned safely to Base Camp.
KB: Seeing the moonrise while we were climbing was awesome! It came up for maybe an hour or so and just skimmed the edge of the horizon. For the whole way up we had splitter weather and were basking in the sun at the summit. After this trip I can definitely understand why my friends are excited about Alaska. It was great to be able to climb the Kahiltna Queen after guiding the Alaska Seminar since it enabled me to spend so much time in the Alaska Range. Andres has heaps of experience in the Alaska Range and I learned a lot from working and climbing with him.
AM: All and all it was a great climb with a great partner. I am already looking forward to next year’s seminar and more personal climbs in the Alaska Range.
Andres Marin is a senior guide at RMI leading programs in Washington, Alaska and Colorado. He is an off-width specialist and an accomplished ice and mixed climber. One of his recent achievements includes climbing the five hardest mixed lines in Ouray, Colorado, in a day. Andres is a fully certified alpine and rock guide sponsored by Millet, Blue Water Ropes, 5.10, Petzl, GU and Ice Holdz.
Katie Bono is an RMI Guide and accomplished climber with impressive ascents in North America and Canada. A retired Nordic ski racer and Millet athlete, she currently holds the women’s speed record on Mt. Rainier.
To see more of their climb check out Andres’ Kahiltna Queen video.
Posted by: Win Whittaker, Solveig Waterfall
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Five Day Summit Climb Team led by RMI Guide Andres Marin reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The Four Day Summit Climb Team led by RMI Guide Win Whittaker had a great climb but were unable to reach the summit. The teams reported clear skies, some light winds, and pleasant temperatures.The teams are on their way to Camp Muir and will be back at Rainier Basecamp to celebrate this afternoon.
After a successful summit yesterday and a week of training the Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons will be returning to Rainier Basecamp this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's teams!
Posted by: Ed Viesturs, Peter Whittaker
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,080'
The Four Day Summit Climb led by Andres Marin and the Viesturs/Whittaker Climb led by Ed Viesturs & Peter Whittaker were unable to summit Mt. Rainier today due to high winds and poor visibility.
The teams began their descent from Camp Muir around 7:30 a.m.
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by RMI Guide Billy Nugent will be returning to Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Weather and route conditions prevented the team from reaching the summit yesterday. Their team spent four days on the mountain expedition style climbing and learning new skills.
We look forward to meeting the groups in Ashford later this morning.
Not sure if this is the team with our fearless leader CPK. We are all here back at home base, “ST Francis” in CT rooting you all on!! Be safe! So proud!
:)
Posted by: Michelle Carrier on 6/28/2013 at 7:31 pm
Good luck on your summit. Go Dave, Mark, Sam, and Carl!!
Posted by: Eric Olson on 6/28/2013 at 7:47 am
Posted by: Casey Grom, Eric Frank
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Our Four Day Summit Climb teams led by Casey Grom and Andres Marin reached the top of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Casey reported beautiful clear skies above 7,500’, a light breeze and cold temperatures. The team will be crossing the crater to Columbia Crest, enjoy the views and then head back to Camp Muir.
After a successful summit yesterday, Eric Frank and the Kautz Expedition team will be back at Basecamp in the early afternoon. JJ Justman and the Expeditions Skills Seminar - Emmons team will be spending the day at Basecamp training.
Cannot wait to hear all about it and see you pictures! Congratulations Dave & John! Must be so amazing up there. :)
Posted by: Miina on 6/14/2013 at 1:30 pm
What a wonderful view from the top! Great climbing!! congrats to David and John and the rest of the group1
Posted by: Barbara on 6/14/2013 at 12:16 pm
The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Andres Marin and Shaun Sears reached the summit of Mt Rainier on this clear, sunny morning. They reported windy conditions with views all the way to Mt. Hood in Oregon. The teams spent about an hour on the summit before starting their descent to Camp Muir. After a short rest at Camp Muir, the teams will continue down to Paradise.
We look forward to seeing everyone at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Congratulations!
I think my family might be in this group. Congratulations!!
Posted by: Diane Pinney on 6/10/2013 at 3:21 pm
The Four Day Summit Climbs led by RMI Guides Andres Marin and Geoff Schellens were forced to turn at the traverse to the nose of the cleaver (11,000’) due to unstable snow. The teams performed snow tests which confirmed the snow instability. The weather this morning was clear but windy with gusts of 45 mph as the teams descended back to Camp Muir.
The Expedition Skills Seminar – Muir led by RMI Guides JJ Justman and Pete Van Deventer are making their ascent to Camp Muir today to begin their week of training and climbing.
Nate,
Stay safe & enjoy every breath! So proud of you!
Good luck!
Lora
“A mountain keeps an echo deep inside. That’s how I hold your voice.”~Rumi
Posted by: Lora on 6/4/2013 at 5:34 am
This morning we woke up early, broke camp and flew off the Kahiltna Glacier. We are now enjoying a nice meal at the West Rib Pub. The group is doing fantastic and we all looking forward to a warm shower. All and all and incredible time with everyone.
Thank you all for the fantastic time!!!!
RMI Guide Andres Marin
Fantastic Conratulations for the entire team and Big thanks to the Guides
Posted by: Aamer's Dad on 5/23/2013 at 10:23 am
After our unsuccessful attempt climbing Radio Tower due avalanche conditions, we spent our last day hiking to the first camp on Denali. We all had the opportunity to pull sleds and go for a long glacier hike. The group enjoyed the views and exercise that took to get there. We finished our day climbing up Heartbreak Hill back to Denali Base Camp. All and all a fantastic day.
Tomorrow we will be packing our camp and be flying at noon back to Talkeetna.
RMI Guide Andres Marin
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There is something about ice climbing in a crevasse that is just mind blowing. Today the group got to experience ice climbing and how much fun it is.
We headed for the foot hills of Mt. Francis to find a deep crevasse suitable for great climbing. Big smiles all day long. Tomorrow we are getting ready to go climbing Radio Tower. The team is excited to climb higher tomorrow and are doing well!
RMI Guide Andres Marin
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Today we woke up with clear skies! After breakfast we shouldered our packs and went for a hike to the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. The Fork offers spectacular views of the North Buttress of Mt. Hunter, South Face of Radio Tower, and the West Face of Kahiltna Queen. We also learned about snow anchors and glacier travel. It was really nice to be able to stretch our legs and hike around. It certainly was a fantastic day.
We also had the opportunity to eat dinner outside enjoying the incredible views. The weather is looking nice for the rest of the week, so we will be getting around.
Everyone is doing great!
RMI Guide Andres Marin
Lis and Pete,
We are very proud of your endurance and stamina.
Wishing you and the team sunny skies for the remaining part of the trip.
Nicole
Posted by: Nicole areson on 5/20/2013 at 10:32 am
So glad the weather has cleared! The photo is awesome, I can’t wait to see the final pics of this spectacular region. Godspeed and I hope that the weather cooperates the rest of the week. JIm Vaughan
Posted by: jim vaughan on 5/19/2013 at 7:26 pm
Do you think the Kahiltna Queen can be solo’d in January? There is a climber in Talkeetna, Alaska right now who may attempt the first solo of the KQ in January 2019. He was going to solo Denali, but due to the government shut-down, that was a no-go. Alaska just had a big earthquake (7.0) on November 30, 2018, and the aftershooks are still plentiful even in Big Lake and Talkeetna, which are not that far from KQ. I wish this climber the best and would value your opinion.
Posted by: Annie G on 1/12/2019 at 4:13 am
Anyone looking into Andres’ background as a guide or a teammate can have confidence that he is capable of more than most and still patient with those less skilled. (thanks again, Andres)
Posted by: Creighton Miller on 8/15/2013 at 8:15 pm
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