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Entries By thomas greene

June 21, 2012

Denali - West Buttress Expedition

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Reach Summit!

Hello, this is Jake calling from 17,000’ camp on Denali after what was an unbelievable summit day.  The team is back in camp safe and sound.  We are having some dinner before turning in for a very well earned night’s sleep.  Everybody did fantastic today, we had perfect conditions.  It was a really beautiful climb.  I’ll give a little more information after we get down.
Just know that everybody is safe after a wonderful day here in Alaska.
Alright, that is it for now.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

RMI Guide Jake Beren checks in after the team's summit day.

On The Map

Bob, one more peak under your belt! What a huge accomplishment! All your training and determination is paying off. The girls and I are at the lake and we had spotty communication, but I was following your progress daily, sometimes multiple times daily! Keep your balance on that descent and don’t come down the mountain faster than you should!! ;-)


Posted by: Kathy Spinks on 6/22/2012 at 8:11 am

We are SO impressed! Congratulations! Roger and Charlie

Posted by: Charlie Hewson on 6/22/2012 at 3:01 am

June 20, 2012

Denali - West Buttress Expedition

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Ready for Summit Bid

Greetings from 17,000’.  Our team is at camp doing great and tucked into their sleeping bags with an absolutely beautiful evening here on Denali.
We are going to cross our fingers for good weather tomorrow and with any luck, we’re gonna give it a shot.  So, wish us the best weather.  Our team is doing great, very strong.  Hopefully we will go take a shot at it tomorrow.  So that is all from 17,000’.  We are ready to launch…

RMI Guide Jake Beren

RMI Guide Jake Beren checks in from 17000 feet on Mt. McKinley

On The Map

WHOOOHOOOO im so excited! I’ve been thinking about you everyday and I can not imagine how lucky I am to have such a badass dad.
Your so close to your pie! :)
Go for it!!.. and dont whimp out hah. Sleep well!

Posted by: Sarina on 6/20/2012 at 11:10 pm

Good luck guys.  Maybe you already hit the top or at the top now??  The suspense grows…..
Drum roll please.

Posted by: dave on 6/20/2012 at 7:26 pm

June 16, 2012

Denali - West Buttress Expedition

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team to the Edge of the World

Today we enjoyed the luxury of waking to the sun on the tents, avoiding the early morning cold. Once up and fed, we took a fantastic walk to THE EDGE OF THE WORLD. Perfect views of the lower Kahiltna Glacier 7,000 feet below our perch and we all took turns peeking over the edge and snapping a few photos. Don’t worry friends and family, we were on belay the whole time.

For the afternoon we rested and welcomed the RMI 4 team after their stylish send on Denali yesterday. Nice job everyone!

Then it was back to work, setting up a fixed line practice and trying as many variations as possible to prepare for the cache tomorrow. Now it’s dinner time, catch y’all tomorrow.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Congratulations team! Good luck on the descent as well.

Posted by: AK on 6/21/2012 at 12:43 pm

Hey paps!!!!!!!!
HAPPY FATHERS DAY!!!!!! There is a pecan pie waiting for you at the summit, so scurry on up there and get your butt back home!!!
Miss you! Cant wait to fatten you up when your back with all our celebratory dinners!!
Love, Sarina

Posted by: Sarina Karwande on 6/17/2012 at 1:50 pm

June 15, 2012

Denali - West Buttress Expedition

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Back Carry to 14K Camp

Climbing consistently gives you opportunities to improve, especially on Denali. A summit day is possible only after weeks of getting in position. During those weeks we are dedicating ourselves to improving all aspects of our game.

This morning we took the lessons of yesterday’s approach to go pick up our cache at Windy Corner. Getting ready in the cold morning will pay off as we move higher. The crew did well on the back carry and the little bobbles in our rigging were addressed when we got back with everyone taking a little time to do some homework dialing in their cold weather systems.

Tomorrow we will rest here at 14,000’, reviewing fixed lines, running belays and if we have some visibility, taking a short cruise to THE EDGE OF THE WORLD for some views. Then it all depends on the weather, but the team is feeling great.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Happy Fathers Day Jim!  Hope you are having a fun adventure.  Halsey: sunscreen!!! Give each other a hug for us.  Love Anne and Jack

Posted by: Anne on 6/16/2012 at 11:36 pm

Ross and K,

Keep plugging away! Take some pics tomorrow at the edge of the world.  Been thinking of you guys today, hope all is well with tent life and the elements. Try to keep everything dry!  A dry hand is a happy hand.  Your in the middle of it, enjoy the views.  -Dave

Posted by: dave kolar on 6/16/2012 at 8:36 pm

June 14, 2012

Denali - West Buttress Expedition

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Move Into 14K Camp

Waking to perfect conditions, clear and near windless, we decided to saddle up and move on up to Genet Basin and make a new home at 14,000 feet. Our hard work yesterday really paid off, leaving us with a perfect trail to camp. It was even downright hot as we pulled into camp and we found a great camp left to us by our friends now living at 17,000 camp. Thanks.

It was still tough, but our team held together well and turned in early for some much needed rest. Tomorrow we will most likely retrieve our cache and spend the afternoon relaxing and preparing for the fixed lines higher up. Cross your fingers for some high pressure. A week would be plenty.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

All the best for the head wall and beyond. Let us know that you’re all doing fine please. 

Posted by: AK on 6/16/2012 at 3:53 pm

Great climbing everyone, keep it up.  Bob, the summit is around the corner, stay strong!  Everything good at home.

Posted by: John Spinks on 6/15/2012 at 8:11 pm

June 14, 2012

Denali - West Buttress Expedition

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Break Trail to Cache Supplies

After our rest day yesterday, we were certainly ready to bust a move this morning. Clear and cold conditions soon gave way to snow flurries and minimal visibility. We made ready, grabbed another cup of coffee and caught enough of a lull to try to carry loads higher on the mountain. Our plan was entirely dependent on conditions encountered on each stretch and despite being the first trailbreakers since the storm, we were able to kick a proud track through several feet of new snow up to Windy Corner and make our cache. Our team opened the route up in good style and if favored by workable weather will try to push it up to 14 Camp tomorrow. Everyone is doing great and will surely enjoy a good night’s sleep after a solid day in the mountains. Thanks also for the messages to the team!  Keep ‘em coming! 

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Jake,  congrats to you and the team.  Sounds like you are all doing well, with a great leader.  Big Hug, Hello and best wishes to Karwande!!!  Keep those fingers warm and battle on!!!!  :)  cs

Posted by: courtney on 6/14/2012 at 8:07 pm

¡Hola, equipo! Glad to hear things are going well and moving upwards.

Today I completed a successful mission to deliver homemade cookie to the folks at Muir (and got to try out the new skis!)

Stay strong and keep thinking happy thoughts…

Posted by: Bridget on 6/14/2012 at 7:31 pm

June 12, 2012

Denali - West Buttress Expedition

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Rest at 11,000’

Throughout the night the clouds surrounding camp started to produce snow and dropped over a foot around our tents. Plans are always in flux up here and our carry higher on the mountain has been postponed. The crew is unfazed, merrily digging out our home and relaxing with a big salmon and bagel breakfast. Another round of digging and a bit of rest before our upcoming potluck lunch. Down days can be productive, storing up strength for higher up on Denali and fine tuning the essential camp skills required for the future. That’s all for now, cross your fingers for a break in the weather and we’ll check in later.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Yo Eric & Elias!  Keep up the good work.  We’re pulling for you!  Can’t wait to see the summit pictures!  Wayne, Ian & Zach

Posted by: Wayne on 6/14/2012 at 5:17 am

Ross and K.  Hopefully everything is working out in the tent.  Fate kept me here for this one.  I cant wait to hear the stories.  Remember to keep your water bottles and the tuna salad in your bags!!  Stay warm guys! - Dave

Posted by: dave kolar on 6/13/2012 at 8:06 pm

June 10, 2012

Denali - West Buttress Expedition

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Move to 11,000’

A big aloha from 11 Camp

We woke to our first clear morning of the trip, with brightly colored lenticular clouds stacked over Mount Forraker. It was cold and clear in our neck of the woods and we traveled well on our way to our cache at 10,000 feet. With slightly lighter loads we dispatched the final hill into camp and moved right in to camp. Now we rest during the heat of the day and recover after a great, but tough day.

Tomorrow, if the weather permits we will retrieve our cache and ready ourselves for life higher up.

Take care everyone,
RMI Guides Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos, Thomas Greene and Team

On The Map

Message for tony crumley David called made it to his new afghan camp. Em has been admitted to hosp. Keep climbing we are proud of uou!  Love you

Posted by: Jill crumley on 6/11/2012 at 1:00 pm

Bob, glad to hear the progress you and the team are making, keep it up.  My prayers and thoughts are continually with you.


Posted by: John Spinks on 6/11/2012 at 8:57 am

June 10, 2012

Denali - West Buttress Expedition

MT. McKinley: Beren and Team Move to 9,500’

Do two times constitute a trend?  Probably not, but today did share a few similarities with yesterday. We woke to a little squirrelly weather with a few inches of snow on the tents and it was unclear whether heading up was a good idea or not. We watched the skies and eventually decided to move. As we climbed into the whiteout above camp and onto Ski Hill proper, the snow stopped and we enjoyed pockets of visibility. It was downright hot as we pulled into camp with an excellent down glacier view. We were able to go down to baselayers as we built camp and as soon as we finished setting up shop it began to snow. Now we are enjoying a hot beverage before some Tortellini a la Thomas for dinner. Tomorrow we’ll see what happens in the sky and hopefully move to 11 camp.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

To Christel: liebste Grüße und eine nächtlich wärmende, feste Umarmung, Tropf

Posted by: Susann on 6/10/2012 at 12:35 pm

Message for Bob…Could not be prouder of you brother!

Posted by: John Spinks on 6/10/2012 at 11:06 am

June 8, 2012

Denali - West Buttress Expedition

Mt. McKinley: Beren and Team Move to 7,800’

When we woke early this morning we weren’t sure what the day had in store for us. The cloud deck dropped during breakfast and no one could really tell if it was raining or snowing. We returned to the tents to wait for a trend to emerge and in about an hour made the call to try to leave basecamp for higher pastures. We had perfect conditions to make our way to the base of Ski Hill and set up camp at the confluence of the Main and Northeast Forks of the Kahiltna Glaciers. As soon as camp was buffed out, it started to snow and we are enjoying a little siesta before dinner.

If the weather is cooperative we will move higher tomorrow to get within striking distance of 11 Camp and the upper mountain.

Hope all is well down South!

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Great to have the opportunity to virtually follow your tour. To Christel: Aunt ever I am so proud you are doing this, one day we might tackle the Matterhorn together ;)

Posted by: Wenke Stalling on 6/10/2012 at 2:07 am

Bob~Kristi made it to Rwanda, after 27 hours!! Now you have to make it to the top!

Posted by: Kathy Spinks on 6/9/2012 at 1:37 pm

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