Entries from Mt. McKinley
We are off the
mountain! After a 4 am start and a nearly ten mile slog with heavy packs and sleds, we made it to the base camp airstrip with beautiful flying weather. We waited for a short time before the first of the planes came to shuttle us to Talkeetna and civilization. When we arrived in Talkeetna to dark clouds and rain, but we were all just excited to get a hot shower and food that did not need to be rehydrated. We want to thank all of our team members for their incredible attitudes and hard work that this trip successful. Also, thank you to all of our friends and family for your support. Your blog comments kept us entertained as well as focused on the task at hand!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
July 1, 2017 10:53 pm PST
As expected, we took a final rest/acclimatization day at
17,000 ft. The weather was very much in the same pattern we've been experiencing, some cloud, some sun, some breeze... All in all not bad for a "storm". We had surprisingly good views down the 47 mile length of the Kahiltna Glacier and all the way down the Alaska Range to the Tordrillos. We did the usual things to prepare for a big day... eat, sleep, drink and strategize. Dinner in our high altitude posh pit was relaxed and comfortable with sun filtering through the tent wall. We are enjoying far milder conditions than many Denali 2017 climbers with lows being just a balmy -5 to -10 F. Conditions at the moment (10 PM) are perfect making us very hopeful for tomorrow.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team
July 1, 2017 12:51 a.m. PST
We awoke to wind and snow this morning at our
17,000 ft camp. This did not phase our crew after our successful summit day yesterday. All we wanted to do is head down to warmer, thicker air. We made it all the way down to our old 11,000 ft camp, where we decided to set up tents and nap a bit. This puts us within striking distance of the airstrip at basecamp. We will have to get on the trail around 3:00 or 4:00 to make sure that the lower glacier is still frozen while we make our way to basecamp. We want those crevasse bridges as strong as possible! Wish us good flying weather for tomorrow!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
July 1, 2017 12:18 a.m. PST
This time we did it. But it wasn't easy by any means. As usual, there was murk and cloud around at 5 AM, but we could see the
West Buttress and we couldn't see signs of big wind blowing. We packed up and ate a last low altitude breakfast. The team was climbing by 7:45 in light snow. We didn't have the perfectly packed trail this time and in the poor light of the mild shadowy whiteout, it sometimes felt as if we were climbing by Braille. At the top of the fixed lines, the crest of the Buttress wasn't universally friendly. When the sun prevailed, we were too hot and when the wind and cloud ruled, it could be kind of raw and mean. What was definitely friendly was crossing paths with
Mike Haugen's victorious descending team. Climbing Washburn's Thumb at 16,600 feet was strenuous and exhilarating. The airy ridge walk after that felt slightly less airy with cloud filling the void on either side of the crest. It took us 8.5 hours, with some glitches and minor setbacks, but we got up to high camp. The weather improved at 17,200 ft as the clouds fell far below us and the sun made everything comfy and magical as the evening progressed. We'll likely rest tomorrow, but that doesn't mean we won't be looking out early to check conditions.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
June 30, 2017 2:13 am PST
After a thirteen-hour summit day, the crew is back at high camp safe and sound. The conditions were variable all day from sunny and calm to windy and snowing. We had to break trail both to and from
Denali Pass. I am proud of the whole crew and the effort that they put in for a successful summit day!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
P.S.
Gloria says Happy Birthday to her dad!
On The Map
The "moving up" picture wasn't all that clear this morning at 5 AM. Nor was it at 6 or 7 or 8 or 9. There was plenty of cloud about and some signs of wind on the ridges where we wanted to be. By the time the weather had improved, it was our judgement that we'd be getting into high camp at a later hour than we'd prefer. We traded the physical difficulty of moving up for the mental difficulty of sitting tight for one more day at 14 K.
One more day of rest, one more day of acclimatization, one more day of anticipation.
We managed it just fine. Ultimately the clouds closed in on
14,000' Camp and took away our views. We had sporadic radio contact with Mike Haugen's RMI team as they felt their way up through higher clouds toward Denali's summit.
Tomorrow is our day to move!
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
June 28, 2017 9:41 pm PST
Today our team practiced arguably the most important skill in all of mountaineering: patience. After a blustery, snowy night up here at
17K, the mountain finally came out this morning, but the upper reaches were cloaked in spindrift, lenticular clouds, and all the hallmarks of high wind. So, we decided to opt for a rest day at high camp to wait for the weather to clear up. The signs are looking more promising for tomorrow, and we're all hoping
Denali will give us a shot. Keep your fingers crossed for us for clear skies in the morning!
Hugs from 17,000',
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
June 28, 2017
We waited until the sun came around today to get out of the tents. That made breakfast a little more like brunch, but everybody was happy to wait for Avery's legendary blueberry pancakes. Weather high on
Denali was unsettled, making us a little concerned for our friends at 17,000 who'd hoped to summit today, By midday things stabilized a little and we had a relaxing afternoon in mostly sunny and calm conditions. Hannah McGowan led a well attended high altitude yoga session for the restless. The rest of us rested and read. We're hoping for climbing weather tomorrow.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
June 27, 2017
Things looked good at 6 AM today, so we rolled out, fired the stoves, rousted the team, breakfasted and got walking. All of this was in the cold shadow before the sun came around. Our pals on Mike Haugen's team were two hours ahead of us, already starting the fixed ropes at 15,000 as we left 14K. We made steady progress up the initial hills with perfectly packed snow to walk on. The sun caught us as we neared the ropes ourselves, making it a little easier to keep hands and faces warm. We launched up the steep headwall, getting into the rhythms of mechanical ascenders on rope, and moving crampons and ice axes on firm snow and ice. We hit the 16,200 ft top to the lines and continued up the spectacular West Buttress to 16,400 ft. Only
Denali, Foraker and Mount Hunter were above the Alaskan sea of clouds today. We cached supplies and enjoyed the views from our lofty perch. Interestingly, this height wasn't a new record for any of our well traveled climbers. Our descent to 14,000 was relatively easy and fun with light packs. We hope our friends at 17,000 have a nice night and a good summit tomorrow while we rest.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
June 27, 2017
We are in position for a summit day. We made our move from camp at
14,000' to our camp at 17,000'. The crew did a great job ascending the fixed lines and climbing the spectacular ridge past Washburn's Thumb, a huge chunk of rock that towers above the route. It was a little windy on the ridge, but it is hard to complain about wind on a huge mountain like Denali.
We made a fortified camp before the clouds came up and gave us some wind and snow. The sun is starting to peak through and we are hoping for good weather tomorrow so we can get a shot at the summit!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
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Good luck Jim and all of Team Hanh!
May the road rise up to meet you.
May the wind always be at your back.
May the sun shine warm upon your face,
and rains fall soft upon your fields.
And until we meet again,
May God hold you in the palm of His hand.
Posted by: Fredman Family on 7/2/2017 at 12:28 pm
Matt,
Good luck on the climb! we are all excited as you get closer and closer to the summit.
-Blake Schlesner
Posted by: Blake Schlesner on 7/2/2017 at 11:10 am
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