Entries from Mt. McKinley
Thursday, June 27, 2019 - 10:44 PM PT
No alarm clocks this morning. It was a
rest day at 11K. Everyone came into the dining tent with smiles around 9 AM, having enjoyed lying in. We stretched breakfast to last a couple of hours as we swilled coffee and chowed down on perfectly constructed breakfast burritos. Some followed that with the first naps of the day, others read, chatted, sorted gear or daydreamed. It was a fine day with mild temps and strong sun. Nobody was sorry to have an occasional cloud throwing shade. We rehydrated and rested. R & R Denali style. There are only about three other teams at 11,000 ft at the moment - the climbing season is tapering off - and so things were quiet and calm. The forecast calls for a few more nice days, which is usually about all one can ask for around here. We will spring back into action tomorrow with the big move to 14 Camp.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Thursday, June 27, 2019 - 9:45 PM PT
Not much to report from 14k. We woke up late, ate breakfast burritos for brunch, and relaxed.
We did stretch out our legs and walk out to an area called the
Edge of the World. As suggested, the Edge of the World is a huge drop of that overlooks the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. We all got our hero shots from this spectacular viewpoint.
We are going to spend at least one more day at 14k to see if we can let some wind clear out before we return up high to 17k. It has been so nice at 14k that we feel a bit spoiled!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team Siete
Thursday, June 27, 2019 - 10:22 AM PT
We woke up and fired up the stoves early again today, hopeful for good climbing weather. But the clouds that were lingering above us at 4:30am have descended and engulfed the
Denali, including our camp. We are currently back in our tents staying warm and dry. There is near zero visibility with light winds and precipitation and high humidity. Unless things turn around quickly, we'll chalk today up as another day to rest and acclimate. We're hoping for improving conditions the next couple of days.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Wednesday, June 26, 2019 - 11:21 PM PT
Our workable weather continued today. Crisp, cool and mostly clear conditions prevailed as we set out above 11,000 camp at 7:15 this morning.
Motorcycle Hill was first up, but didn’t take us all that long, just forty five minutes of “duck foot” cramponing up a steep snow slope with a handful of well-bridged crevasses. Next up was Squirrel Hill, a little traversing and some more duck footing, which brought us up to the Polo Field at the west end of the West Buttress. By this point, we were finally out of the valleys... looking up at surrounding mountains has been fun, but now looking out and down at the world from 12 and 13,000 ft is novel and beautiful. Windy Corner wasn’t windy. We took a pleasant rest break there in the mid morning sunshine. Then we put our helmets on and climbed around the corner. A new world opened up to us as we could now see the upper West Buttress and the bulk of Denali’s South Peak up close and personal. At 13,500 ft, we’d reached our target for the day -about four hours above 11 camp. We dug a deep hole in the snow to cache food and gear out of the reach of crafty clever ravens. Enjoying the sunshine and calm conditions, we lingered for about an hour before starting our descent. The track was in fine condition, so walking/climbing down went smoothly and easily. We strolled into 11,000 near two in the afternoon, which as we’ve discovered, is a darn good time for a nap. Clouds came and went throughout the afternoon and evening, there were some light showers, but nothing of great significance from our perspective.
We’ll rest tomorrow to solidify acclimatization before making the big jump up to 14 camp.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn and Team
Wednesday, June 26, 2019 - 3:30 PM PT
We had hopes of making a summit push today, but as we were gearing up early this morning winds began to increase and a lenticular cloud cap began forming on the
summit. So we pumped the brakes to see what would materialize. As it turned out, the cloud cap continued to materialize. Eventually we pulled the plug on the waiting game. We'll use today a a rest day (although the weather is making it unable to climb, it is not too uncomfortable at camp). We're hoping for calmer winds tomorrow so we can give it a go.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Tuesday, June 25, 2019 - 10:00 PM PT
We didn't get out of the tent this morning until the direct sunlight at 9:30. We enjoyed a relaxing breakfast of toasted bagels with cream cheese and smoked salmon. We are really roughing it here at
14,000' Camp.
After our late breakfast, we did some fixed line practice for our trip up high tomorrow. Our plan is to carry some supplies up high so that when the weather is good we can move to high camp and go for the summit soon after.
The crew is all doing very well and we are excited to keep climbing up!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Team Siete
On The Map
Tuesday, June 25, 2019 - 9:58 PM PT
Four AM wake up today down at 9,500 ft. That was a perfect time for watching the early rays of sunshine playing across Mt Foraker’s 17,000 ft slopes. We watched, but we also geared up and ate our Cheerios. There were a bunch of different layers of cloud out and about, but none of those gave us any trouble. We hit the trail by six. It was an easier trail to hit today, since there’d been a good freeze and no additional new snow overnight. Cruising along the upper
Kahiltna in deep, cool shadows was wonderful. Although it wasn’t our intention, we shaved plenty of time off our travel from yesterday as we made it to 11,000 by 8:30 AM. Then there was the familiar work of leveling tent sites, building tents and anchoring them down. By the time the sun found us we were ready for a midday nap. In the afternoon the team got together for a review of the climbing techniques we’ll use to get up and around Windy Corner. The character of the climb changes with tomorrow’s carry. Time to bust out the crampons and ice axes. Hannah crushed things in the kitchen this evening with her acclaimed Mac and Cheese. Things briefly got snowy and cold, and then blue sky and sunshine broke out everywhere as we turned in for the “night”
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Tuesday, June 25, 2019 - 5:24 PM PT
The early wake up call in the cold was well worth it as our team was able to move efficiently up the
fixed ropes and along the ridge to Denali High Camp. We arrives by noon, which gave us ample time to build camp and get some rest. The weather is beautiful, and almost warm in the sun. If this weather persists through tomorrow we will give the summit a shot. We won't know until we wake up, but we're optimistic.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Monday, June 24, 2019 - 10:53 PM PT
We have a group of happy campers here at
14,000' Camp on Denali. Although we had to delay our start time a bit due to snow this morning, we were eventually able to tear down camp and head up hill. The weather was very nice to us until we got to about 13,600'. This terrain is a convex area in the glacier that reflects all the sun off the snow and rock and becomes an easy-bake oven. Luckily we left early enough where our brains did not fully melt even though it felt like they might.
We set up a great camp and had a birthday dinner of mac and cheese and no bake cheese cake for Zach and Ian.
The group has earned their rest day tomorrow and we won't wake up until the sun hits our tents. Goodnight!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Siete
On The Map
Monday, June 24, 2019 - 9:56 PM PT
Two inches of snow covered our tents in the wee hours this morning at
9,500' on the Kahiltna. It was still falling at 3:30 when the alarms went off so we gave it another 30 minutes to shape up. Sure enough, at 4 AM things were looking better. We rallied and ate breakfast in our dining tent. At 5:40 it was time for moving up. The walking was pretty easy, despite the new snow and it was all very quiet, traveling in muffled cloudy conditions. In an hour’s time we were at Kahiltna Pass at 10,000', the very northernmost start to the 47 mile long glacier. Time to turn right and go up some steeper hill to 11,000', which we did. We reached the camp at around 8 AM, having walked out of the clouds in the process. It was a spectacular and novel setting, up close to some great hanging ice cliffs and towering rock buttresses. We dug a raven-proof cache in the snow and buried the food, fuel, and equipment we’d carried. It was then an easy and pleasant walk down with light packs and empty sleds. Finally it was a relief to come into our already established camp at 9500 ft and relax. There was no digging to be done or tents to put up, which was just as well. It got blazing hot, even with all of the cloud lingering. We napped away another quiet afternoon.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
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Congratulations team on the progress to 11,000. Big milestone! You rock!
Posted by: Ken Porrello on 6/28/2019 at 12:57 pm
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