Entries from Mt. McKinley
June 24, 2017 10:36 pm PST
And today we rested. After our big move day yesterday we felt we deserved a day of kicking back and recovering. We made a point of emerging from our tents no earlier than 10 am and got the day started out right by consuming a mountain of pancakes. Kudos to Caleb for consuming the largest pancake of the morning! By 1 pm we were wrapping up the pancake party and as you may imagine, that long of a breakfast can really take it out of you .... So we rested a bit more. Once we felt we had properly digested we reviewed fixed line travel and running belays in preparation for our carry tomorrow. After practice for a few hours it was nearly time for dinner! Funny how time flies on a rest day. We had an early dinner of gourmet Ramen and before the sun could go down on us and give way to the chill of
14 Camp we headed to bed. Tomorrow we have our first go at the fixed lines!
Goodnight from 14!
Hasta Manana
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
June 24, 2017 10:07 pm PST
We continue to enjoy better weather than we have a right to expect. The forecasts keep calling for snow, and I'm sure it was snowing somewhere -we got about .5 inches overnight at 11,000 ft, but when we peered outside this morning it just looked like good climbing weather. We were out of there by 8 and up our now familiar hills, Motorcycle and Squirrel, we had no trouble getting to Windy Corner by noon and then we passed our cache (yesterday's high point) and made for 14,200 ft. We pulled in at 2:30 for a respectable 6.5-hour journey. There was a fine place for tents right alongside our pals on
Mike Haugen's RMI trip. The afternoon was spent as a lot of ours seem to be, building camp and melting snow for water. Except now we are doing it in the legendary Genet Basin with the West Buttress and
Denali's gigantic South Peak looming over us. We built a fine dining area (a giant pit in the snow with snow benches and snow tables and our dining tent capping it) and then tested it out with a team dinner. Tomorrow should be a relatively easy day, just dropping down the short distance to our cache and bringing it all home to 14.2.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
June 23, 2017 10:30 pm PST
Greetings from 14 Camp on
Denali!
Our team took advantage of stable weather and strong legs today to retrace our steps back up to 14,200 feet, this time with tents and sleeping bags in tow. We were excited to ascend the steeps of Motorcycle Hill and Squirrel Hill for the last time, and lucky for us, windy corner proved not so windy after all.
The rest of the day was devoted to digging in our new camp, which is looking dialed and styled. The team is looking forward to having some time to relax and adjust to the new altitude tomorrow, with a non-zero chance of Horiskey-style blueberry pancakes.
Ciao,
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
June 23, 2017 10:00 pm PST
It didn't seem terribly cold this morning at 5:30, Around 17 F or so, which made it a little easier to get up and rally for "the carry". We got out on the trail by a quarter to eight. Finally we were wearing crampons and holding ice axes like mountain climbers (to this point it has been snowshoes and ski poles). The track was in great condition -well packed snow- due to the large number of teams that have passed through since the last storm. We cruised up the steep Motorcycle Hill, and navigated the squirrely Squirrel Hill and found ourselves in the Polo Field below the end of the
West Buttress before the sun caught us. Another hour brought us to a decidedly calm Windy Corner. We slipped around the corner, getting great views of Foraker, Hunter and finally Denali, in the process. We cached food and fuel at 13,500 ft -our target for the day- and had an easy walk back down to camp at 11K with relatively empty packs. It was exhilarating to be out of the deep valley at last and to be crossing ridges and turning corners with all the big views. But it was also nice to get back to our camp and to have a calm afternoon to rest after our labors. We ate dinner and made preparations for our big move up to 14K tomorrow.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
June 22, 2017
Rope teams came and went in the early morning today, and we stayed comfy in bed. The guides were desperate for coffee by 8:30, but the sun and full breakfast didn't show up until after 9. Our rest day consisted of long, leisurely meals in the dining tent separated by naps and reading sessions. It was a fine and sunny day at 11K. We sorted loads for the carry tomorrow and
discussed climbing techniques. Each climber and guide prepared for the after-dinner poetry slam suggested by Anja. There were haikus and limericks, remembered verses and spontaneous rhymes... There was much laughter, some genuine applause and plenty of food for thought. And then there was the swirling cloud endless evening light show of Alaska. We're all excited to go climbing tomorrow.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
June 22, 2017
After having so much fun with our
cache mission up to 14,000 feet and back, the team decided they want to do it again tomorrow. This time we will be moving up to make a new camp at 14,200. We hope that the weather tomorrow will be as lovely as today.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
June 21, 2017
Good weather has finally hit
Denali. The pressure is rising along with the temperatures....for now. We have had a good time at our 11k camp but it time to start moving up higher. Our plan is to do a carry up to 14,000 feet to cache some gear and then move up after a couple of days. If this weather holds, we will wake up early and hit the trail so we can get up to 14k before it gets too hot. Most people would think that being to hot would not be an issue while mountain climbing in Alaska, but it can be a real energy drain when the hot sun reflects off he snow like a solar oven.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Team
On The Map
June 21, 2017
It snowed a couple of inches overnight at 9500 ft but skies were clear by morning. A cool breeze kept us in bed for a little while, but we were on the trail by 9:30 and making slow and steady progress toward the head of the
Kahiltna Glacier. We could almost see all of its forty-seven mile length stretched out below us as we turned East at Kahiltna Pass. The cool breeze was nowhere to be found as we worked up steeper hills at midday. We made it into 11,000 ft Camp at 1 PM and were happy to see our friends on Mike Haugen's team. They kindly helped to shovel tent sites for us and gave us some "starter water" to make us feel at home. The day had turned out to be stunningly nice... Which is always a good thing on the solstice. We gazed in wonder at the bright clean angular chunks of glacier hanging all around us and at the formidable rock of the NW and West Buttresses. Camp went up smoothly and quickly and we crawled in the tents to beat the heat for a few hours. Evening was a social whirl as guides and climbers from all over the world had reunions and wished each other well as they went in opposite directions. We will take a much deserved rest day tomorrow and look forward to catching up on sleep, reading, and hydration.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
June 20, 2017
The alarm went off at 3 AM but we didn't leave camp until close to noon. Winds built as we ate breakfast and the thought of walking straight up into a cold and snowy down glacier breeze was unappealing. We did what we often do in such circumstances... We dragged our feet and waited to see which way the weather might trend. We got out our already packed sleeping bags and waited in the early morning shadows. When the sun came out, we were still waiting. By 11 things were not so different, but it wasn't nearly as cold. And so we packed up and made our move. As is normal, the glacier was in far better condition as we worked up
Ski Hill. We had just a handful of easy crevasses to cross before we reached the stable ice up at 9500 ft. We pulled into our unbuilt new home just before 4PM and got busy building. Clouds had built up below us, overtaking our last camp and by evening we were in light snow from the clouds just up glacier, but we still had great views of Mts Foraker and Hunter to our South. The team turned in at 8 PM. Higher and happier with each passing day.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
June 19, 2017
Denali remains unseasonably cold for June. This actually works in our favor for the lower camps. The cold days allow us to wake up a little later to move camps or cache before the sun comes out and bakes us.
We successfully completed our mission for the day, which was to go back to our last camp and retrieve some food and gear that we left cached there. We couldn't have asked for better travel conditions with perfect weather and a great path stomped through the deep snow. We completed our task with enough time for second breakfast and an afternoon nap. This mountaineering stuff is rough!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
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Mother Nature has been on your side. Good luck Marc, Tucker and team. Brenda
Posted by: Brenda on 6/29/2017 at 8:36 am
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