Entries from Mt. McKinley

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Reach Base Camp

June 11, 2017

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, JT Schmitt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,200'

June 10, 2017 The sleep of the dead finally hit me this morning just after my last post. An hour later JT asks, "Should we get up? It's 1:04 am and the alarm on my phone hasn't gone off!" The night hadn't brought the hoped for cooling, but it was time to leave and make that trip to Base Camp. Breakfast and hots were served in the remains of our old Posh site, sans the actual Posh, then we were off. As we turned the corner at 10,000' heading down the Kahiltna we were treated to the amazing view down glacier of the jewels ad the Alaska Range. Hunter, Foraker, Crosson and other peaks were starkly defined in shades of black and white, along with some other hue that seemed hard to place. Unusually dark clouds prevented the pinks and reds we often see at 3:30-4:00 am, but this view I've never seen before, and may have been even more spectacular. 6+ hours of hard walking finally brought us back to Base Camp. Reflective of the poor snow year in the Alaskan mountains this year, there were a number of sketchy crevasse crossing to be negotiated. Then white out conditions kept us from seeing the landmarks that would otherwise tell us exactly where we were, but the track in the snow of others gave us something to follow. Then, low and behold, the tents of Base Camp popped into view and we knew we were done. Unfortunately, these same clouds have prevented planes from flying and landing here, so we are again captive of the weather gods and just waiting to be released from Denali to return to civilization where we might wash the twenty one days of toil off us and sit in chairs at a table and eat food that requires more than just a spoon. I just hope that, when we do get to that restaurant, some social graces return to folks and we don't see them licking their bowls clean in anticipation of the next course. I'll of course advise everyone to bring a pee bottle to their hotel room, and perhaps even a CMC (clean mountain can), because some habits might just be too difficult to break after these twenty one days. Goodnight from 7200' camp, where I hear the snow hitting the tent walls in increasing intensity. Oh well, at least we need walk no more, for now. RMI Guides Brent, Christina, JT & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

What an Awesome adventure, Summit or not…An Awesome Adventure! Congrats to everyone!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/12/2017 at 4:36 am

It sounds like quite an adventure to 17K. From what Ive read everyone’s bailed off 17 Camp in the last few days. Quite a year for crevasse falls too. Glad you guys made it safely back to camp! Now to chill out and sip some Alaskan brews until the ride shows up. Have an Ice Axe for me when you get back to TK!

Posted by: Keith Gates on 6/12/2017 at 12:28 am

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Stretch Their Legs and Lungs

June 11, 2017

Posted by: Tyler Jones, JM Gorum, Bryan Mazaika

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 10, 2017 Hello from 14 Camp. We had a mix of bagels, cheese and Cheerios with a side of bacon for breakfast. Then we suited up for a walk in calmer and warmer weather than what we have be experiencing lately. Our team climbed to the base of the fixed ropes to clear our minds from tent time. We also were glad to stretch the legs and lungs! Our vibe is lifted for the future. The forecast for tomorrow is looking like new strong wind with snow. The weather could turn the corner early next week. The team is doing every well and poised to go higher soon. RMI Guide Tyler Jones & Team

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Carry to 17K Camp

June 10, 2017

Posted by: Jake Beren, Steve Gately, Megan Budge

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 10, 2017 7:46 pm PST Today we may very well have nailed it. Waking early for an extended weather viewing to establish any discernible trend, we left camp with reasonable visibility. The team did great as we broke trail up to the base of the fixed lines. We rested at the base of the lines as the weather slowly deteriorated and our friends from RMI 4 joined us in solidarity on a fitness walk. Once we were a big party and the cache was established, we descended back to 14 Camp for some rest before dinner. The winds and snow picked up nearly as soon as we got home and we are now poised to go to 17K once the weather allows. It has been pretty squirrelly in the weather department lately, but the team is hanging tough, waiting for our time to shine. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hope the weather cooperates for the safe completion of your climb. for poet William Blake"Great things are done when men (/women) and mountains meet.” Continued safety for the Team! from Darren D

Posted by: Darren D on 6/12/2017 at 1:27 pm

keep up the great work, kenny. i have faith that your team will make it. we are all rooting for you back at home. love, anne

Posted by: anne lawler on 6/11/2017 at 5:48 pm

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Denali Expedition: Okita & Team on Their Descent

June 10, 2017

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, JT Schmitt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

June 10, 2017 12:07 am PST It was a day of decisions. The team sadly broke apart today, with the main group heading down, and two strong and driven individuals opting to stay on the mountain to give 'er another try. Caught in the middle I was torn between sticking with the two and going for the summit, or sticking with the main part of the team. After anguishing over the decision, I chose to finish off the expedition with the team, rather than lead our two erstwhile members to the top. A sketchy forecast helped me in my decision, and I think my two climbers will have a better chance of summiting with the groups I left them with. They'll be joining Tyler and Jake's teams, who have a bit more time than I to wait for good weather. So here we are, in our tents at 11,200' camp waiting for the night to referee the glacier so we can travel over its frozen surface to minimize the risk of crevasse falls that have been occurring much more than normal lately. It's sad separating from our two teammates, and leaving the mountain without a summit under our belts. For me it's been twenty five trips since I've not summited. But folks are in good spirits. I think we all really appreciate the time we've spent here, the friendships developed, the hard times as well as the fun times. In two hours we awaken for one last day on the glacier. That is, as long as the air service can pick us up in the morning. With any luck, next time I chat with you I'll have had a shower, eaten a big ol' steak and perhaps consumed an adult beverage or two. Good night from 11,200'. RMI Guides Brent Okita, Christina Dale and JT Schmitt

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

who are the two going for the summit?

Posted by: win smith sr on 6/12/2017 at 10:21 am

Team - Sorry that you did not summit but congratulations on such strong climbing and a great adventure. Many people have been rooting for you and continue to do so. Descend safely and enjoy your return to civilization. Ken

Posted by: Ken Porrello on 6/11/2017 at 5:12 am

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Storm Day at 14K Camp

June 10, 2017

Posted by: Tyler Jones, JM Gorum, Bryan Mazaika

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 9, 2017 11:40 pm PST The team held at 14 Camp another day while it snowed most of the day. There wasn't much action outside of the tents minus some shoveling around camp and playing some games under shelter in the kitchen or as we call it the "posh." The team is still doing well and spirits are high as the weekend outlook is still calling for more snow and high winds. We've been keeping a close eye on our dwindling food bags but some easy rationing has us feeling that we still have enough time to wait for the next weather window. Thanks for some of the previous blog comments, we've shared them with the team. Send us some calm, sunny weather! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Tym, Tyler, and Team,

There must be a break-down because I have been sending you calm, warm weather…it is obviously not arriving. There must be a large, lost package at the post office. So sorry. I will continue to try at this end and wish you all the best. Stay strong and enthusiastic.

The Cavs beat the Warriors 137-116 last night, so with the Warriors ahead at 3-1, it is back to Oakland for another game on Monday night.

And Tym, Satoshi says, $2921.00!!

Love Mom and Zeppelin

Posted by: Kristi Kennelly on 6/10/2017 at 8:04 pm

Matt and team,

Hanging in there. Sunny and hot in Michigan this weekend. Will send some your way. Praying weather clears up soon!! Stay safe.

Love, Mom

Posted by: Barb McAllister on 6/10/2017 at 9:18 am

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Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Train at 14,000’ Camp

June 9, 2017

Posted by: Jake Beren, Steve Gately, Megan Budge

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

June 9, 2017 Today we enjoyed a little bit of sleeping in before a solid brunch. The weather has been persnickety of late, but our team is handling the storm well, fortifying camp at 14,000' and swapping stories in our cook tent. Naps are a big part of the downtime as we wait for a chance to move higher. Yesterday we went for a training mission to hone our skills for the fixed lines and everyone did a great job, passing their rope skills test with flying colors. Cross your fingers for some good weather for us! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Lindsay - hope you are having the time of your life! It seems like weather is not cooperating but I am sure it will turn around. Hang in there!

Posted by: Manish on 6/10/2017 at 4:08 pm

Steve, We are in awe watching you and your team embrace this journey.You are all truly amazing!! Hang in there man…you are living the dream…We love you and can’t wait to see, hug , and have a very expensive bottle of wine and dinner with you!! Stay safe all. Ruth and Mike

Posted by: Mike and Ruth on 6/10/2017 at 2:51 pm

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Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Retreat to 14K Camp

June 9, 2017

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, JT Schmitt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 9, 2017 12:55 a.m. PT Every fifteen minutes another gust would pummel the side of the tent. Of course, it would have to be on my side. The moisture inside our precious shelter, frozen to the walls of the tent would fall on us with each gust, forcing us deeper into our bed of down. Day five at 17,200' turned in to a real doozy. The forecasts have actually been fairly good lately, and no good news was to be had with the latest issued. In fact, a high wind alert was posted for the upcoming four days with winds into the sixties. This had camp on edge, including my wise assistants Christina and JT, upon whom I rely so heavily to help make our trip the best and safest, My initial optimism that the weather would surely improve with time was tempered by the latest info coming out. A decision to retreat to the relative safety, protection and comfort of 14,200' camp was made by all in camp, even though the strong winds are cause for concern as we need to navigate the technical terrain of the West Buttress. Taking down tents and packing up went well even in those conditions, a testament of the ability of our veteran and tested team. The climb down to camp went well, besides the inevitable traffic of perhaps fifty people leaving camp simultaneously. To our delight, the RMI teams at 14,200' got into our cache and had camp all set up for us when we pulled in, What incredible work, A huge THANKS to [url=https://www.rmiguides.com/blog/expedition/denali_5_23_17/desc]https://www.rmiguides.com/blog/expedition/denali_5_23_17/desc[/url], Jake and their teams!!! So now, at day 19 we have a number of folks feeling the pull of home and a life put on hold while we take part in this incredible experience. A couple of others are still excited to finish off the climb and willing to put in a few more days. An updated forecast in the morning might help us see if we actually have a realistic chance of getting a good enough break on the weather in a few days time. We'll make some final decisions in the morning, but right now we might not even have good enough weather to leave camp. Goodnight from 14,200' camp (revisited), RMI Guides Brent Okita, Christina Dale and JT Schmitt

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Dear Alex,
“Nevertheless, she persisted…”
Keep strong and safe, team.
Jasmin

Posted by: Jasmin on 6/10/2017 at 6:38 am

Hello Mountain Friends! So sorry that I couldn’t join the climb at the last minute this year. Everything has resolved itself with my family’s health issues, but it was necessary to stay here. While I have been very disappointed that I can’t be climbing with you, I have been following the blog entries about your progress with enthusiasm, and am impressed with the tough resolve that you have all exhibited as you’ve faced the various challenges on the mountain. I truly hope that the weather relents and gives you all a well-deserved shot at the summit in the next few days! Best of luck and stay safe everyone. I hope to climb with you all at some point on down the road. -William

Posted by: William Kenyon on 6/9/2017 at 6:59 pm

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Relax at 14,000’ Camp

June 9, 2017

Posted by: Tyler Jones, JM Gorum, Bryan Mazaika

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

June 8, 2017 Today was another relaxed day! The crew played more corn hole and we learned a new old game from Amir and Nima. The winds were cooking this morning. The signs of uphill progress were not looking hot. The team is bonding and has high spirits for sticking out the unsettled and likely stormy weather the next few days. Brent's RMI team descended to 14,000' to skip the bad weather up high. The guides put some strong work into helping them set up camp and make water for them. Tomorrow will likely bring more laughter and good times maybe some laps around camp, we'll see. The weather has to break at some point! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

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Matt,
I hope you’re well up there and that you’re getting some good use out of my favorite down slippers. Enjoy the rest of your time on the mountain and take lots of pictures. It looks amazing and I can’t wait to hear your stories.

If by chance you start to miss me… Just remember every time you look up at the moon, I too will be looking at a moon. Not the same moon, obviously, that’s impossible.

Love, Colleen

Posted by: Colleen on 6/9/2017 at 4:24 pm

Hope weather breaks real soon! We want you to come home soon! Stay safe!

Posted by: Kathy Healy on 6/9/2017 at 3:09 pm

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Remain at 14,000’ Camp

June 8, 2017

Posted by: Tyler Jones, JM Gorum, Bryan Mazaika

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

June 7, 2017 The team is still here at 14,000 ft Camp on Denali. Our snow walls we built yesterday proved to be worthy today as the winds were gusty and we had some light snowfall this afternoon. Today provided some more tent time than the last few days, discussions around dinner have evolved to what books people are reading and if anyone is ready to trade finished books. We also got crafty with building a camp game, with a sled filled with snow and some sandwich bags packed with snow we improvised the game cornhole. It became an instant hit and we might have some more time here to start a tournament! Otherwise, all is well as we wait out the windy and snowy conditions on the upper mountain. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi to Dear Amir and Nima and all team guide and team members,

Hoping this message finds you well. I can understand how tough it is to wait in the camp for final approach. You need to be too patient, that you are!! and keep yourself fit and safe. I don ‘t want to disappoint you but it may happen if your supplies are running rock bottom down or weather conditions are tough, your guides may decide bringing you down without going to top summing. But that’s it; at times it is the route that matters not the mere fact of reaching the goal. Stay tough, patient and safe,
Last Friday 9th of June, I climbed to Claun Bastak (CB) in Dizin area of Central Alborz, north of Tehran. CB has a height of 4300 m (we started from Dizin at 2000 m ) and when we reached summit we had the amazing view of Damavand summit, Touchal, and Alam Kuh. As it was too cold, we spent half an hour there. In the way down we had a difficult time as the route was too sharp and slippery. I have put pictures on our family account. !!
I keep my fingers crossed and pray you prevail it. But if you didn’t, don’t worry you are on the right path and on the good hands; you would be able to do it next time. Please don’t forget that it is not the goals that are important, the path towards goals are much mor fundamental and meaningful. You will accomplish it, keep your spirits and stay safe and well,
Hadi, Mitra’s father,

Posted by: Hadi on 6/10/2017 at 11:08 pm

Tym, Tyler, and Team,

Hang in there and be patient. Your time has to be coming. Keep up your spirits and know I am thinking of you here in the 90 degree lowlands of Charlotte, NC. And…Satoshi says, $2,822.00.

Love,
Mom

Posted by: Kristi Kennelly on 6/9/2017 at 3:56 pm

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Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Take Rest Day At 14,000’ Camp

June 8, 2017

Posted by: Jake Beren, Steve Gately, Megan Budge

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 7, 2017 We are writing from our newly built snow fortress at 14,000'. After a leisurely wake up time and a hearty brunch of bagels and smoked salmon (with capers!), we set our sights on fortifying our camp with some snow walls. The team worked seamlessly to make a solid camp that can withstand wind and blowing snow. With our work for the day out of the way, we spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing in our cozy tents. Our bellies are filled with a delicious dinner of chicken quesadillas, and we are looking forward to some more technical training tomorrow. Good night from 14,200 feet on Denali! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Cheryl, I’m almost unbearably proud to call a woman like you one of my dearest.
Cheerleading so ridiculously hard with my five star dance moves for you ! (I’d like to think in a way that would make you turn bright red and step slightly to the side - the psych is that real)
Mind
Over
Matter
Keep crushing! You’ve already reached the summit of my heart .
Hugs ❤️
Sarah

Posted by: Sarah on 6/9/2017 at 12:17 pm

Jake Jirsa - We’re watching you! Keep it up man. You’re only a few inches from the top on the map!

Posted by: Jim and Kerynn on 6/9/2017 at 11:42 am

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Entries from Mt. McKinley

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Reach Base Camp

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Stretch Their Legs and Lungs

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Carry to 17K Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team on Their Descent

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Storm Day at 14K Camp

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Train at 14,000’ Camp

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Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Retreat to 14K Camp

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Relax at 14,000’ Camp

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Remain at 14,000’ Camp

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Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Take Rest Day At 14,000’ Camp

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