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Entries from Mount Rainier

Mt. Rainier: RMI Guide Elias de Andres Recaps Winter Seminar & Successful Summit

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

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Last week was RMI's March Expedition Skills Seminar-Winter. Like every month from January to April, a team of intrepid climbers looking to learn the beauty of winter mountaineering, ventured up the slopes of Mt. Rainier on this, our classic six-day winter program. Guides Adam Knoff, Leah Fisher, Nick Hunt and myself, Elías de Andrés, enjoyed the company of a dozen folks, who initally were welcomed by a characteristic March day; rain in town, snow and wind up high. Our orientation day in Ashford would include a thorough evaluation of the forecast, a task that is, regardless, part of this program's curriculum. But in this case, with a close look at a promising improving trend which would keep us excited for the remaining of the day. The next morning, with packs ready and boots laced up, we headed into the park not without a delay due to the National Park's snow plows hard work to keep the road to Paradise open to individuals like us. Upon arriving to Paradise we rigged our equipment for the hike to what would be our first camp. Atop Marmot Hill, we built a fortified settlement "Denali style" for the evening. A "posh house" tent was erected to socialize at dinner time, just like on any expedition, really. It was a new sight for many in the group, which by now were enjoying expedition life barely 500ft above the parking lot. Our hike to Muir started as we waved good bye to a weatherfront that had wiped western Washington for a few days, but not without great team effort breaking trail for most of the remaining 4,000 vertical feet to Camp Muir. Enjoying the clearest skies possible, our climbers who'd arrived from all parts of the country could make out in the horizon the central Oregon volcanoes of Mt. Hood and Jefferson without even squinting. To the north, some avalanches, along with ice and rock fall from the Nisqually Ice Cliff, reminded us of the interactions between the new loaded glaciers the spring-like sun of this day. The next 36 hours would continue to add to the tool kit the climbers were building for future expeditions and also, in order to face, of course, a potential climb the following day as the high pressure system was supposed to last for at least three days. Muir Peak, the AAA Gully, the Cowlitz Glacier... all provided, in the vicinity of Camp Muir, a perfect training ground. In the morning of Thursday, March 13th, we woke up to yet another incredible day; clear skies had been swiped of clouds by the same winds that windblasted some of the upper slopes... as well as loaded others. Careful evaluation by the guides on the go, determined a safe, wind-scoured route up the west side of the Ingraham Glacier, a seldom traveled route almost hugging Gibraltar Rock on its east side. Once at Camp Comfort, trail breaking efforts would begin again, and as the team team held it together, we were getting closer to the top in sometimes mid-calf deep snow on the now, more lower angled sections of the climb. After 6 hours and 50 minutes of ascent, the team reached the crater rim to the now strengthening winds. But a new winter summit had been attained by another successful RMI Winter Skills Seminar team. Our careful preparation to detail, our philosophy in approaching the mountain, the guidance of the leaders and the great application of the skills learned by the climbers allowed the feat... the RMI way! The next day, in a deja vu of what winter is truly like, we woke up to one-foot tall spindrifts and gusts of over 70mph at Camp Muir. Most of the guides, including myself, couldn't remember such conditions on the snowfield. Far away from feeling accomplished by the previous day's achievement, successfully navigating down to Paradise in such white-out conditions demanded now serious skill and perseverance. A team of now well-trained climbers, learned their last lesson of this winter seminar; the summit is only back at the car. Three hours later we'd bypass the remains of our camp on day 1, and as the winds decreased at 6,000ft and visibility came back to reasonable, we reached the Paradise parking lot. Celebratory drinks and a dinner over future climbing plans with the climbers was the perfect closure to a week on the frigid, yet amazing environment of winter on Mt. Rainier. Come play, climb and learn with RMI! Satisfaction guaranteed. Elías de Andrés RMI Senior Guide
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Elias, Adam, Nick, Leah;

Thanks again for all your hard work on this trip - you all handled things very professionally, and I for one learned quite a bit.  Both the seminar and the summit bid exceeded my expectations.

-Eric

Posted by: Eric on 3/19/2014 at 9:57 am

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Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Reaches the SUMMIT!

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

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The last Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir Team of our 2013 Rainier climbing season reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier at about 2:00pm yesterday. RMI Guides Casey Grom and Elias deAndres Martos reported a blue bird day with cold temperatures and fresh snow on the route. The team will spend the morning at Camp Muir finishing up their mountaineering skills training before heading back to RMI Basecamp this afternoon. Congratulations Team!
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Fatima, Casey….just awesome. I wish I was there!!

Posted by: Debbi on 9/28/2013 at 5:39 am

Congratulations Tim!  That’s one checked off the Bucket List.  Keep goin’!

Posted by: Le on 9/27/2013 at 10:14 am

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Turns Below Camp Muir

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 8,000'

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The Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by RMI Guides Leon Davis and Geoff Schellens were forced to turn around at 8,000' today en route to Camp Muir. The teams experienced wet and windy weather with low visibility. They made the tough decision to descend and return to Paradise. The teams arrived at Rainier BaseCamp just before 3 pm PT.
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Mt. Rainier: Four & Five Day Climbs Turned Around

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 12,300'

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The Four Day Summit Climb September 19 - 22 led by RMI Guide Billy Nugent & the Five Day Summit Climb September 18 - 22 led by Zeb Blais were unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams left Camp Muir en route to the summit but were forced to turn around at the top of Disappointment Cleaver (12,300') due to a cloud cap that was descending. The cloud cap brought limited visibility and increased winds. The teams returned to Camp Muir to rest and dry out. They began their descent from Camp Muir a little after 8 am en route for Paradise. We look forward to seeing the groups at Rainier BaseCamp later this morning.
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Glad you guys are safe. (Following Lissa and Joanna but glad for all of you.) You guys are a success for trying and going so far, and being willing and able to go the distance. Sorry the weather made it rough and you had to turn around at “Dissapointment Cleaver.” I’m guessing with that name, you guys weren’t the first to have to deal with having to turn around at that place. What an adventure!:)

Posted by: dawn n. on 9/23/2013 at 5:05 pm

Having made it to the top of the Cleaver with the team…  It was awesome. Rainier made it pretty clear it was in no mood to let anyone summit on Sunday.
I can’t say enough about all the RMI guides. They are great. Thanks, guys.

Posted by: Wytold on 9/23/2013 at 7:56 am

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Mt. Rainier: September 21st Summit!

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

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The Mt. Rainier Summit Climb led by Seth and Solveig Waterfall reached the summit at 7:00 this morning. The guides reported clear and cold weather conditions. After spending some time on the summit, the team began their descent at 7:45 a.m. We look forward to congratulating them back in Ashford at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon!
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Fantastic lead! I had a great time and was so glad we had a window to summit.
A truly professional team with the Waterfalls, Andy And Nick. Thanks so much for keeping things safe and fun. Look forward to seeing you all on future climbs.

Posted by: Scott Anderson on 10/1/2013 at 8:06 pm

The 2 best guides at RMI working together

Posted by: Tom on 9/22/2013 at 4:29 am

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Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Summit Day!

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

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The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir September 15 - 19 led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and JJ Justman reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. Brent reported a beautiful day with no winds and blue skies all around. The team will conclude their week on the mountain tomorrow. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp tomorrow afternoon.
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congrats!!  Awesome!

Posted by: Nissa on 9/20/2013 at 3:15 pm

Great job Sanath! We are very excited for you, can’t wait to hear all about it and have a safe trip back.

Manju

Posted by: manjula on 9/20/2013 at 12:35 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Summit Climbs on Top September 16th

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

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The Four Day Summit Climb teams September 13 - 16 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning just after 7 am. RMI Guides Seth Waterfall and Solveig Waterfall reported clear skies above with a light wind from the SW. There is a cloud deck lower on the mountain 9,500'. The teams will enjoy some time on the summit before starting their descent to Camp Muir and continuing to Paradise later this afternoon. Congratulations to today Summit Climb teams!
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WTFIT!!! yeah!!

Posted by: aferrer on 9/16/2013 at 1:11 pm

Congratulations Sean!
Never had a doubt you wouldn’t reach the summit.
Love,
Stacy & Carter

Posted by: Stacy Ragiel on 9/16/2013 at 9:34 am

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Mt. Rainier: September 15th Summit!

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

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The Four Day Summit Climb August 12 - 15 and the Five Day Summit Climb August 11 - 15 both reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. RMI Guides Leon Davis and Geoff Schellens reported they were in a cloud cap on the summit with low visibility and light winds from the South/Southwest. The teams began their descent from the crater rim shortly after 7 am. They will return to Camp Muir for a short break before continuing their descent to Paradise this afternoon. Congratulations to today's climbers!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

March 29th climbers. 2014.  Wishing you a safe and fun trip.!!  You are rare birds and we are ALL waiting anxiously to hear your adventures.  Be safe, be kind, be happy.

Love you all,
Burdee

Posted by: Rosemary -burdee on 3/31/2014 at 8:01 am

One of the finest groups of people that I have ever met. Great job team, proud of all of you!!

Posted by: Rob on 9/17/2013 at 9:30 am

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Mt. Rainier: September 14th Summit!

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

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The Four Day Summit Climb reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The team reported great route conditions and warm, sunny weather. The team is making their way to Camp Muir where they will rest and refuel before returning to Ashford this afternoon. Congratulations climbers!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Thanks RMI guides for getting the team safely to the summit!  Congratulations Jason and the whole team!  We are so PROUD of you Jay for Hiking for the Hungry.
Linda Friedman
Ps.
Would you bring us some snow?  We haven’t seen any here in NJ since the 2013-14 winter from hell!

Posted by: Linda Friedman on 9/14/2014 at 9:30 am

Ajaz I am soo sooo proud of you!!!! love you

Posted by: sadaf on 9/15/2013 at 11:49 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Reaches the SUMMIT!

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

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Our Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir led by RMI Guides Mike Walter and Jake Beren reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The team reported great route conditions, warm temperatures and clear skies. The team is now en route to Camp Muir and will spend the spend the rest of their time at Camp Muir training before returning to RMI Basecamp tomorrow. Congratulations to today's team!
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Job well done!!!! Not too many people can say they did this.  Congratulations…. from the other Eileen & Ty

Posted by: Eieen on 9/16/2013 at 6:29 am

YEAH! Great News Thrilling…  what an accomplishment.

Love Mom, Ty ( Bluefin Tuna Fishing on Cape Cod) and Kate!!!

Posted by: meg on 9/12/2013 at 6:12 pm

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