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Mt. Rainier: July 14th - Summit!

Our Four Day Summit Climb teams led by Peter Whittaker, Ed Viesturs and Jake Beren reached the top of Mt. Rainier today. Visibility was low and winds were strong, so their time on the top was short. The teams have started their descent and are on their way down to Camp Muir. Our Kautz Glacier Climb led by Mike Walter sent us a radio call at 1:59pm PST from the summit of Mt. Rainier. The entire team reached the summit via the Kautz route. Congratulations to today's teams!
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Torres del Paine: King & Team Enjoy Kayak Tour on Lago Grey

The team enjoyed an evening kayak near the large icebergs on Lago Grey yesterday. Today we had a windy but scenic 6.5 miles through the 2013 wildfire scar. The terrain is a series of rocky bluffs and valleys covered in burned and sun bleached trees. While holding onto thier hats, some were able to get pictures of Glacier Grey. Some, decided to forge ahead and get out of the wind. This Refugio is located on Lago Pehoe pay way) which has a brilliant turquoise color. We got our first views of the Cuernos (horns) of the Paine Massif. A short stay here tonight and we’ll head up the French Valley tomorrow morning on our way to Francis Domes. 

RMI Guide Mike King

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Mt. Rainier: Five Day Team Led by Gately & Lyddan Summit

After enjoying a day of training at Ingraham Flats, 11,200ft, yesterday, the Five Day Climb June 29 - 3 July led by RMI Guides Steve Gately and Emma Lyddan put their training to good use. The teams climbed 4,500' from Camp Muir to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  Steve reported a pleasant day on the mountain with a bit of a breeze towards the summit.  The teams began their descent from the crater rim just before 7:30 am en route to Camp Muir.  Once back at camp they will have a short break to repack before continuing the remaining 4,500' to Paradise.

Congratulations to today's climbing teams!

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Cotopaxi Express: Whittaker & Team Explore Quito

After a long day of travel yesterday, we were re-energized this morning when we stepped outside the hotel to deep blue skies, brilliant equatorial sun, and temps in the mid 70s all at over 9,000’ here in Quito. We made our way high and low through the city excited to experience the colorful culture, friendly locals, and empanadas! We then ventured to the outskirts of Quito where we visited the site that gave the country its name - the equator! And since there’s never a bad time to snack, we hunted down a produce stand and stuffed ourselves with oritos, delicious sweet baby bananas widely grown here in Ecuador, and was soon followed by a delicious team dinner at an Ecuadorian restaurant. No, no one’s ordered guinea pig...yet. What a great way to acclimatize for a 19,000 foot volcano! RMI Guides Peter Whittaker, Jess Matthews and Team
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Ruth Glacier Seminar: Delaney & Team Return to Airstrip

Thursday, May 11, 2023 - 12:01 AM PT

Sorry for the delay of game blogoneers! Yesterday was so jammed packed and busy with doing nothing that I forgot to blog. We awoke at 6am with high hopes of starting our summit day but instead when we poked our heads outside it looked like we were inside of a marshmallow. The lighting was so flat that up was indistinguishable from down. Suffice it to say, those are not ideal conditions for going uphill and assessing unknown avalanche terrain from the bottom up. So we stayed put and waited, and waited, and waited… until around 1pm we got sunshine for a whole 20 minutes! Then back into the clouds.

The team had high spirits and we enjoyed our weather day as best we could with movies, podcasts, music and books. Today was a new day! The skies were clear and we had a long way to go ahead of us. We packed up camp and descended from 747 Pass in great time compared to what it took us to come up it. Clouds started to pour over from the next valley and soon we had an overcast sky above us. We made it back to our cache we had left behind two days prior and had a nice, leisurely lunch. Then we reshuffled all our gear to make use of the sleds again and started tromping up glacier. A vicious headwind and snow hampered our progress but only slightly as the team was strong and motived to make it back to the airstrip. After a grueling climb of the final glacial hill, we were back where we started. What seems like a life time was only a week ago. The team expertly and quickly assembled camp, downed a tasty meal of garlic siracha bacon Mac and cheese, and promptly fell asleep. A well deserved rest after a long and arduous day. Assuming the clouds clear by morning, we’ll be back in Talkeetna tomorrow!

Cheers,

RMI Guides Jack, Mike and the team

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Courage Quilt: What is Courage?

On March 21, RMI Trekker Susan R left her home in Florida en route to Kathmandu, Nepal. Susan would be joining RMI Guide Mark Tucker and their team on a 21 day adventure through the Khumbu Valley. From Kathmandu the team would fly to Lukla and begin their trek to Everest Base Camp at 17,575'. Along with the jackets, hiking boots, sleeping bags and other items needed along the trail, Susan brought with her a special Courage Quilt. This quilt was given to her by Mrs. Hixon's 4th Grade class from Oakton Elementary School in Oakton, Virginia. Mrs. Hixon and her class did a project on Nepal and the Himalaya. " It certainly helped me and I think it helped the other team members as well." said Susan. The students were asked the following questions: What is courage? What does it look like? What do you think about when you need to be courageous? The photo below is of the Courage Quilt given to Susan which she brought with her to Nepal.
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Have fun with Tuck on the trek. He was a blast on Kilimanjaro 2 years ago.

Posted by: Dick Davies on 5/10/2014 at 12:32 pm


RMI Guide JJ Justman Notches his 200th Summit of Mt. Rainier!

RMI Guide JJ Justman reached the summit of Mt. Rainier on Wednesday, June 4th, 2013, marking his 200th summit of the mountain. JJ has been a mountain guide for eighteen years, leading climbers on climbs and expeditions around the world, from Mt. Rainier to Alaska to the Andes to the Himalaya, including Mt. Everest. "People often ask me how I can climb Rainier day in and day out year after year, if it ever gets old? And my answer is always the same. No," said Justman. "I climb Rainier to share the experience with first time climbers. I see the emotion on people's faces as they come down from the mountain as they say, "I can't believe I did that"! And now with 200 summits I have seen and heard that a lot from hundreds of people. And it never gets old. I look forward to sharing the unforgettable experience with many others as I climb towards 300!" Below is a compilation of photos from JJ's climbs over the years. We wish JJ a big congratulations and many more safe climbs to come! - The RMI Team Collection of JJ's Rainier Photos over the years
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YAY JJ! That’s awesome! I was on your rope with you when you completed your 175th in 2011, it was such a great time that I am coming to do it again next week.  You’re a kickass guide!  -Andy R

Posted by: Andy on 6/5/2013 at 3:55 pm

Wow JJ ... 200 summits.  What an accomplishment!  Congratulations!!!  Fred K

Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 6/5/2013 at 10:20 am


Mt. Rainier: Avalanche Risk turns May 28th Team at 10,600’

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Avery Parrinello turned at 10,600' today due to high avalanche risk. The team had calm skies during their climb, but the new snow from recent storms has not had time to settle on the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier making travel above Camp Muir unsafe. The team has started their descent and will be back at Rainier Basecamp in Ashford, WA  in the early afternoon.

Congratulations team! 

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We are so proud of all of you! Heather Heather this is a shout out from your friends who love you so much and we wanted to let you know that you inspire us!

Posted by: Janine Paradiso on 6/1/2022 at 5:08 am


Chile Ski: Reid & Team From Araucania to Osorno

We have had a great few days working our way south from Araucania to the Lakes District. We had a nice day of ski touring on the ridges across from Lonquimay before heading south to Pucon. Beautiful views that morning of Sierra Nevada, Llaima, Villarrica, Tolhuaca and Lanin. We had a nice rest day in Pucon while a wet storm hit the region. That day we were slated for Villarrica, the most active volcano in South America. It's currently under "Amber alert" after spitting some lava and smoke in the last couple weeks. Our backup plan was another nearby mountain - Quetrapillan. But with a forecast of heavy snow and 80 knot winds, a down day seemed like a better plan. Yesterday we worked our way further south into the Lakes District, arriving to Refugio Teski on the flanks of Volcan Osorno. This morning we set off in light snow flurries and low visibility, once again with optimism that things would improve. Improve they did as we skinned through the cloud deck into the sunlight. We didn't quite make it to the top of Osorno. The wind was whipping and the steep summit slopes were icy. But we did get an amazing 4000'+ descent above Lake Llanquihue. Snow conditions were once again uncharacteristically good for this time of year - a smooth, preserved, fast powder surface illuminated in cold sunlight. Quite a run to end the trip on. And one that should make the wait for our Northern Hemisphere winter more tolerable. An added bonus was having our friend and outfitter Sergio join us on Osorno. He doesn't usually travel this far south with us but this was a special cameo. RMI Guide Tyler Reid
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Peru Seminar: Davis, Lyddan and Team Checking In from Ishinca Base Camp

July 11, 2022 - Huaraz to BC: The team loaded up the bus from the hotel this morning and after about an hour through pleasantly rough and rocky roads arrived at Pashpa. Here we loaded up our burros with duffels, food, climbing gear, and base camp infrastructure then promptly began our 4-hour trek up the Ishinca Valley. Through high grassy knolls, green forests, and boulder fields leftover from glaciers many millennia ago, we reached our basecamp at just over 14,000.’ Ishinca Base Camp is quite the spot. Surrounded by steep rocky walls with the mighty Tocllaraju sitting in front as a majestic skyline at just under 6,000m (19,797ft).

After we got our tents set up and moved in, we enjoyed a delicious meal of fresh caught trout and potatoes, prepared by our wonderful camp cook Emilio and his assistant Romel. With tired eyes and full bellies, we happily crawled into our sleeping bags and drifted off to the sound of babbling glacial stream

July 12, 2022 - BC Training Day: Today we slept in and let the warmth of the sun wake us up. After a breakfast of omelets, we began working on some rope skills and practice with knots and hitches. We took advantage of good weather and did another acclimatization hike after lunch up the moraine to Laguna Milluacocha. Along the way we saw views of Ranrapalca and our objective Urus Este. We were welcomed back with some afternoon tea and popcorn. Not a bad day living at 14,000’

July 13, 2022 - Snow School: We left basecamp early this morning to head up 2,000’ to the toe of the Ishinca glacier to get some more acclimatization in before we attempt our summit bid of Ishinca tomorrow. There we practiced cramponing, roped travel, anchor building, and crevasse rescue at 16,000’.  It was back to basecamp for an afternoon of rest and an early dinner of Lomo Saltado before bed. Tomorrow (tonight will come early) …

RMI Guides Alan Davis, Emma Lyddan & Team

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