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Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Enjoy Rest Day

Monday, May 23, 2022 - 6:10 pm PT

Today we awoke to a world of synchronized visual perception, everything was the same milky white, the sky, the ground and the thin cover of frost draped over all the man made intrusions on this arctic alpine environment. Quite a stark contrast from the last few days of around the clock blue skies.

Despite the lack of visibility we still prepared to carry our gear as if the weather wasn’t part of the equation, hoping the eternal Alaskan summer sun would penetrate the trillions of suspended water molecules, and provide us with the conditions so desired to continue the task of climbing this mountain.

Unfortunately that didn’t happen soon enough, so we decided to use our time in the next most productive way, resting. The team enjoyed letting our bodies recuperate and help red blood cell counts climb after four days of work.

Tomorrow we will see what the mountain sends our way and keep you all posted!

RMI Guides JT, Matias, Jackson and the RMI team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Enjoy the rest little gomie :) Back to work tomorrow!

Posted by: Pat Breen on 5/24/2022 at 2:38 pm

Enjoy the rest day!!

Posted by: Nestor Davidson on 5/24/2022 at 9:15 am


Mt. Rainier: Climbing Team reaches Summit

RMI Guides Eric Frank and Hannah Smith led a team of climbers with the Inspiration4 Team to the summit of Mt. Rainier today.  The teams enjoyed nice conditions on the mountain and a direct route via the Ingraham Direct.

Congratulations to the Inspriation4 Team!

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Mt. Rainier: RMI Guide Elias de Andres Recaps Winter Seminar & Successful Summit

Last week was RMI's March Expedition Skills Seminar-Winter. Like every month from January to April, a team of intrepid climbers looking to learn the beauty of winter mountaineering, ventured up the slopes of Mt. Rainier on this, our classic six-day winter program. Guides Adam Knoff, Leah Fisher, Nick Hunt and myself, Elías de Andrés, enjoyed the company of a dozen folks, who initally were welcomed by a characteristic March day; rain in town, snow and wind up high. Our orientation day in Ashford would include a thorough evaluation of the forecast, a task that is, regardless, part of this program's curriculum. But in this case, with a close look at a promising improving trend which would keep us excited for the remaining of the day. The next morning, with packs ready and boots laced up, we headed into the park not without a delay due to the National Park's snow plows hard work to keep the road to Paradise open to individuals like us. Upon arriving to Paradise we rigged our equipment for the hike to what would be our first camp. Atop Marmot Hill, we built a fortified settlement "Denali style" for the evening. A "posh house" tent was erected to socialize at dinner time, just like on any expedition, really. It was a new sight for many in the group, which by now were enjoying expedition life barely 500ft above the parking lot. Our hike to Muir started as we waved good bye to a weatherfront that had wiped western Washington for a few days, but not without great team effort breaking trail for most of the remaining 4,000 vertical feet to Camp Muir. Enjoying the clearest skies possible, our climbers who'd arrived from all parts of the country could make out in the horizon the central Oregon volcanoes of Mt. Hood and Jefferson without even squinting. To the north, some avalanches, along with ice and rock fall from the Nisqually Ice Cliff, reminded us of the interactions between the new loaded glaciers the spring-like sun of this day. The next 36 hours would continue to add to the tool kit the climbers were building for future expeditions and also, in order to face, of course, a potential climb the following day as the high pressure system was supposed to last for at least three days. Muir Peak, the AAA Gully, the Cowlitz Glacier... all provided, in the vicinity of Camp Muir, a perfect training ground. In the morning of Thursday, March 13th, we woke up to yet another incredible day; clear skies had been swiped of clouds by the same winds that windblasted some of the upper slopes... as well as loaded others. Careful evaluation by the guides on the go, determined a safe, wind-scoured route up the west side of the Ingraham Glacier, a seldom traveled route almost hugging Gibraltar Rock on its east side. Once at Camp Comfort, trail breaking efforts would begin again, and as the team team held it together, we were getting closer to the top in sometimes mid-calf deep snow on the now, more lower angled sections of the climb. After 6 hours and 50 minutes of ascent, the team reached the crater rim to the now strengthening winds. But a new winter summit had been attained by another successful RMI Winter Skills Seminar team. Our careful preparation to detail, our philosophy in approaching the mountain, the guidance of the leaders and the great application of the skills learned by the climbers allowed the feat... the RMI way! The next day, in a deja vu of what winter is truly like, we woke up to one-foot tall spindrifts and gusts of over 70mph at Camp Muir. Most of the guides, including myself, couldn't remember such conditions on the snowfield. Far away from feeling accomplished by the previous day's achievement, successfully navigating down to Paradise in such white-out conditions demanded now serious skill and perseverance. A team of now well-trained climbers, learned their last lesson of this winter seminar; the summit is only back at the car. Three hours later we'd bypass the remains of our camp on day 1, and as the winds decreased at 6,000ft and visibility came back to reasonable, we reached the Paradise parking lot. Celebratory drinks and a dinner over future climbing plans with the climbers was the perfect closure to a week on the frigid, yet amazing environment of winter on Mt. Rainier. Come play, climb and learn with RMI! Satisfaction guaranteed. Elías de Andrés RMI Senior Guide
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Elias, Adam, Nick, Leah;

Thanks again for all your hard work on this trip - you all handled things very professionally, and I for one learned quite a bit.  Both the seminar and the summit bid exceeded my expectations.

-Eric

Posted by: Eric on 3/19/2014 at 9:57 am


Kilimanjaro: Team Visits the Ngorongoro Crater

I'm continually amazed with the Ngorongoro Crater each time I visit. The variety and sheer number of animals we see blows my mind. Today might have surpassed what I've seen in prior trips.

It started with a bang as one of the first critters we encountered was a hyena feeding on a carcass with a jackal and vulture looking on. A Nat Geo moment if there ever was. It got better from there on. The animal we all wanted to really see, simba, popped into view not terribly long after the hyena. A big male showed itself for us looking as regal and mighty as only a big cat can look. Later, we got closer looks at a pride of four or five lions, including a young male, resting by a river, content to relax before they go hunting again. Perhaps the coolest thing was just being in the middle of hundreds, if not thousands, of animals like wildebeest, zebra, gazelle, warthog, Cape Buffalo, and more. All just milling around, some just inches from the vehicle and more as far as the eye could see. Things were so active we were delayed in reaching the designated picnic area for lunch because we had to stop and gawk so much. 

Finally, we made it to our lunch site and were treated to a great meal centered around chicken shishkabobs. On our way out we stopped by a Masai bomba, or village, where we were invited to learn about their culture and how they live. Sure, we pay for the privilege, but I think it money well spent as it helps support these people who are caught between keeping to their traditional ways while existing in a world so unlike theirs.

The day ended with another gourmet dinner, the likes of which none of us commonly partake. A nice South African Cabernet seemed an appropriate pairing to the wonderful meal. The great company only made the evening perfect. 

Tomorrow: Tarangire National Park!

Cheers,

RMI Guide Brent Okita & Team

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams Summit on Windy Day

The Four Day Climb August 29 - 1 September reached the summit of Mt. Rainier around 7 AM today. RMI Guides Brent Okita and Ben Ammon led the groups today. Brent reported windy conditions as they were approaching the crater rim. After enjoying the views the teams will return to Camp Muir and then continue their descent to Paradise. They will conclude their adventure at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon and hopefully enjoy the festivities of Rainier Mountain Fest. Congratulations to today's climbers!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

You are all rockstars!

Posted by: Lois on 9/1/2019 at 11:25 am

Congratulations Jonathan!!!! I am so proud of you!!! <3

Posted by: Joanne on 9/1/2019 at 9:09 am


Mt. Rainier: Low Visibility Turns Teams at 12,500’

The American Lung Association's Climb for Clean Air led by RMI Guide Win Whittaker and the Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Mike Uchal were unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams decided to call 12,500 ft. their high point today due to high winds and low visibility. The teams descended back to Camp Muir for some extra rest. Later this morning the teams will pack up and make their descent back to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them back in Ashford later today.
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Great work but unfortunate for today’s conditions. Everyone did a great job this year training!

Posted by: Jason Lathrop on 6/23/2016 at 11:21 am

Great job guys- impressed you made it that far! Sasha says “I love you daddy- see you soon!”

Posted by: Diane and Sasha on 6/23/2016 at 10:58 am


Aconcagua: Nugent & Team Reach Summit!

11:39 a.m. PST Billy Nugent & Team called and they are safely back at High Camp. It has started snowing so they are packing up and heading for Plaza Argentina. The team is doing great and they will send an update when they get there. Hey everybody, I am checking in for our Aconcagua crew giving you guys a call from the summit. We are [broken] clear skies [broken] and 100% of our crew on the summit. We are all giving hi-fives, taking pictures and just looking around kind of in awe. I'll give a call when we get back to camp safe and sound but until then, ciao ciao. RMI Guide Billy Nugent


RMI Guide Billy Nugent checks in from the summit of Aconcagua, 22,841 ft.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Uncle Kenny! Hope you’re having a great time in Argentina! I’m having a fantastic semester so far, I got hired as an RA for next year! I’m so excited, and all my classes are great too. Can’t wait to see all the amazing pictures I’m sure you took, have a safe trip back to the US! Love you!
-Natasha

Posted by: Natasha Young on 2/17/2013 at 12:15 pm

Congratulations to you all!!
I hope there was some summit wine.
Rolf

Posted by: Rolf on 2/17/2013 at 6:44 am


Vinson Massif: The Team Moves to Camp One in Good Weather

Weather forecasts that were passed in to us from Union Glacier suggested that things wouldn't be so great today. But then the forecasts changed. It was a fine and calm day with plenty of sun and blue sky. We packed up our basecamp and at about 12:30 PM, we began marching up the Branscomb. The going was slightly easier today as the track in the snow is getting packed down a bit better. We collected our cached food and gear from yesterday and then made the big northward turn with the glacier. This put us directly under Vinson's great western escarpment and it was a thrill to look up at 2000 vertical meters of rock and precariously perched ice. A few hours of easier going on a firm surface brought us to Vinson's low camp at a little before 7 PM. It was very comfortable in the sunshine but the slightest breeze or a small cloud putting us in shadow made everyone acutely aware of what the actual temperature was. The forecast that called for good weather today pegged the summit temp at -36 degrees. We got tents up and the kitchen going and had dinner sitting outside, surrounded by giant and jagged mountains. After dinner a few of us got a quarry of snow blocks going and built some walls for the camp... Just in case the weather changes, as usual. It is now around 30 minutes after midnight and the sun is blazing away on the tents. The sun won't set, but around 3 AM when it goes behind the mountain, we will know it. At this camp, we won't expect to see or feel it again until noon. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Happy Thanksgiving to all! We are hoping you have great weather. Keep warm.
Regards,
F/W Group in St Louis

Posted by: F/W Group on 11/23/2011 at 10:38 am

I just turned up the thermostat another 5 degrees after reading this post.

Mark - hope you’re carrying your little stuffed moo-cow with you. I find it galling that its been to more summits than me.

Posted by: Madhu Rao on 11/23/2011 at 7:43 am


Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Wait Patiently at 14,000 Camp

Howdy all,

One of the most important traits to have in expedition style climbing is patience. Patience to wait for a window that will give you the best odds to reach your goal: to safely summit the mountain. We are currently testing our patience waiting for the best opportunity for the team to move to 17,000' Camp and go for the summit. Rest days or waiting days can get long and can be quite boring but they are necessary. The down time can be hard and your mind can drift to family and friends and your life back home, but its important to keep your head here and in the game. Lots of tent time, snacking, reading, and Netflix occupy our time. We did get to greet a RMI team who came down from 17,000' Camp after a successful summit. It was fun seeing friendly faces and hearing about the route. It makes us that more excited to get up there. In due time it will be our turn. Till then we wait.

Till tomorrow,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team

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Wishing a great and fair weathered summit bid to the entire team! Happy birthday at my bad a$$ little sister who just turned 20 at 17k!!!

Posted by: Paulina Johansson on 6/22/2021 at 9:22 pm

BJ - thinking of you and continuing to wish you and your group the very best.  You’re almost there!  I am proud of you and I love you.

Posted by: Anna Geigle on 6/22/2021 at 5:36 pm


Mt. Everest Expedition: Team Arrives at Balcony

3:21 am (Nepal time) arrive at Balcony. No direct radio talk to climbers but Dawa at South Col relays that the team is all together and all doing well. Breeze down here at Base Camp and looking up, I see some high thin clouds, a few clouds setting in on some surrounding peaks but word from above is weather is OK, not too windy. During this stop they will change to a fresh bottle of oxygen and store their partially used ones in a certain spot to pick up, and possibly use on the descent. They will be working with some metal parts on the regulators during the exchange process so it's don't touch any part with bare skin or congratulations, you now have some form of frostbite on your hand. Next up, the climb to the South Summit (28,750 feet). Start up from the Balcony along the ridge to some very steep climbing, that on a dry year would be a number of rocky steps. This year conditions are very nice in that they are mostly snow covered making it a little easier and less chance of rock fall hazard. Right on schedule. Right on track. Right on Dudes upstairs. Another few hours till radio traffic but should have direct radio contact from South Summit. Drop you all a note soon. RMI Guide Mark Tucker
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Good luck with the weather tomorrow. We are rooting for you all!

Posted by: Marina on 5/20/2011 at 6:43 pm

Taos and Albuquerque LeBlancs wishing Dave and team the best!

Posted by: LeBlanc Familia on 5/20/2011 at 4:05 pm

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