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Sunday, June 2, 2013 The weather has finally changed. No more perfectly sunny , windless days. Instead, this morning we saw some clouds both below us and above. But they were fairly light clouds and the winds remained calm. A change none the less. After sixteen days of perfect weather these clouds might seem ominous, but in reality the weather was fairly nice. So, we picked up and moved up to high camp at 17,200'. Gambling on the weather is one of those things that is just a part of mountain climbing. Do you stay or do you go? Given the relatively benign weather forecast I opted to take advantage of a nice day to move up. An early start allowed us to reach camp by 3:00 where we were able to have our pick of walled tent spaces. We were even able to dig in the Posh House. After a little while some snow started falling and we figured we'd just have a simple dinner and allow the team to eat in the comfort of their tents. After all, we had had a big day with heavier packs that our previous climb and folks could feel the effort. But, not this team. It's impressive that when offered room service at 17,000' everyone of the team chose to get together for dinner. No, today there was no singing, but everyone was in good spirits and hoping to get a good nights sleep. Our plan is to check out the weather in the morning and go for it if things are good. Otherwise, we'll have a good rest day. It's great to be in position for a summit bid finally. All we need now is one good day. Wish us luck! RMI Guides Brent, Logan and Leah

On The Map

Hello, this is the Dhaulagiri climbing team on Sunday, the 20th. First of all we want to apologize for the lack of communication, but we're having serious problems with our SAT phone and charger and we are trying to solve that problem. We are also saddened by the news that arrived to base camp here of the tragedy on Everest. We want to send our condolences to the community of the Sherpa involved in this tragedy. Our progress here on the mountain continues. We have been able to reach almost Camp 2. We have been very unlucky with the weather. Until right now we have been the only team on the mountain, but we were able to make a carry to almost Camp 2 and spend a few nights at Camp 1. Right now the weather looks like it is favorable to us and we are hoping to take a few days of rest and make some more progress up high, hopefully getting to Camp 2 or 3 in the next week or so. Getting ready for a future summit push around the beginning of May. So we'll keep you posted on that and we hope everybody is doing well. We'll try to keep you posted as much as we can with the limited communications that we have here. Regards to all from Dhaulagiri Base Camp. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

Good news from the North Cascades! The RMI office received the following text from RMI Guide Tyler Reid who is leading a group on Mt. Shuksan’s Fisher Chimneys: “On the summit! It turned into a beautiful day, we had the mountain to ourselves. It was a great climb. I will send a text from camp. TR” Nice work Tyler, Tim and Kevin!

Monday, May 27, 2013 At 6:00 am few climbers are stirring, preferring to crawl out of their tents when the sun is a little closer to chasing the cold shadows of the night away. But we had a big day ahead of us, and knew we would be comfortable having breakfast and hot drinks in our Posh tent. A skiff of snow barely covered the tents and the gear we left outside, and a few more clouds lingered around for a short while after we lit the stoves, but the sun was also out and we knew it was going to be good enough to make our carry up to 13,500'. The crew was super quick getting ready this morning, eager, and certainly a little anxious about the climbing to come. After all, it was to be the steepest terrain we've been on. And as I suspected, everyone climbed well. A very slight breeze kept us comfortable until the last fifteen minutes when the wind stopped and things got hot. We got to our cache site at 2:00, a very respectable time by any measure. Everyone was tired but smiling and happy. The descent was just as smooth, allowing us to enjoy a few hours of well deserved R&R before dinner. Our plan for tomorrow is to move up to 14,200' camp if we're all feeling good in the morning. Otherwise we'll take a rest day. If we do move up, we'll definitely be taking a couple of rest days there, which are key to our acclimatization to the elevation of camp. After dinner we read all your posts! Thanks so much for the kind words and well wishes. It was another bright spot to an already good day. Until tomorrow! RMI Guides Brent, Logan and Leah

On The Map

Following two nights of tent camping in the paramo, yesterday we climbed Antisana. Several members of the team reached the summit and everyone gave a serious effort. Congratulations to all for making it as far as we have.

Antisana is Ecuador's fourth highest mountain, but the complex glaciers that one encounters makes a summit bid quite difficult. Our camp sits at 14,800' in the final patch of grass before entering more serious alpine terrain. The first hour takes you through a glacial moraine before arriving at the base of the glacier. Once on the glacier, numerous huge crevasses are encountered as well as needing to navigate through serac-ridden terrain. Higher on the mountain, the team worked their way up some very steep snow pitches before walking the seemingly endless plateau to the true summit. Although this section is benign, the altitude of over 18,000' catches up with you. This is truly a difficult climb and for making the effort, you are rewarded with excellent views of other high mountains in Ecuador.

Honestly, Antisana might be my favorite volcano climb in Ecuador. The beauty of our campsite alone is worth a visit. We camped two nights in tents and there is also a dining tent where we were served delicious, hot meals every morning and evening. The staff at Antisana basecamp is lovely and as always, our local Ecuadorian guides are professional and just truly good people to hang with.

Today, a portion of the group heads home while the rest of us are headed to Chimborazo. We spent a final night as a team at Casa Ilayaku, a quaint hacienda on an old farm property near Quito. According to our smart watches, the sleep was near perfect. For those headed to Chimborazo, we are now on a four hour bus ride to the Chimborazo Lodge for one more relaxing night prior to another big summit push!

Thanks for following along.

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

Today our Sherpa team secured prime real estate at Camp 3. The super Sherpa chopped away ice for a nice flat platform and supplied, but did not set up the tent. It is best to wait till the day the team is ready to use the tent; otherwise, the elements may damage or blow the unoccupied tent away. Sherpa plan to carry loads to the South Col tomorrow; these guys are tough. The climbing team is getting some exercise around Basecamp by day hiking, golfing, and playing horseshoes. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map

Air and automobile travel, shopping, traffic, in-laws, it’s dark, cold and wet outside...the Holidays are here! Does all of this have an impact on physical fitness? It can, and as a result I need a workout I can do anywhere and in a short amount of time. Here is a favorite, I call it the Four Hundred by Two by Ten. Let’s call it the Holiday Workout. Try it two or three times this week. The Holiday Workout goes like this: 1. Run or walk 400 meters. Conveniently, this is the distance around an athletic track (or around a football field). You can also do it on the trail, even if you have to guess the distance (or use a watch and run/walk for 2 minutes). 2. Do two strength exercises. I suggest ten repetitions of Bicycle Crunch and Push Up, or the Russian Twist and 30 seconds of the Plank. You can chose whatever you like and try to make one an upper body and one a mid-core exercise. For an explanation of the strength exercises, and a list of others, see the Daily Dozen. 3. Repeat ten times and that’s it - an all-body workout that trains both strength and cardiovascular fitness! Stay focused and it will only take you about 45 minutes. You can make it a social activity by doing it with friends and family. If someone is more fit, try to double up on the strength exercises. If someone is less fit, give them a head start on the run/walk section. Happy Holidays! - John Colver John Colver is a longtime climber, former mountain guide, and certified personal trainer with the American Council of Exercise. Colver introduced outdoor fitness classes to athletic clubs throughout the greater Puget Sound region before creating his adventX brand. Currently, adventX leads training programs in Seattle and Colver presents clinics on outdoor fitness at companies such as Microsoft, Boeing, the American Lung Association, and REI. Colver lives in Seattle. Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts with John and other readers on the RMI Blog!

Hey there Mark Tucker here with the Carstensz climb. I am not quite sure what of the amazing sites in front of me I should speak of when it comes to leading a Jungle tour. We round a corner here in this neck of the woods, I guess jungle. A gentleman appears with a big spear, a large bow, something sticking through his nose, and wearing only a gourd tends to get my attention. A wondrous place it is. It is like jungle gym, thank goodness for roots, I have a new a respect for them as a whole. We had an ascent on some very steep terrain. The team is climbing so strong and so well and the support we are getting from our local staff is wonderful. We are now in Putigapa which is just a meadow swamp land at about 11,000’ and it is still very forested and we have yet to find the tree line. Mother Nature was kind to us again today we were able to get all of our gear, tents and dining area set up before the rains started. Right now it is raining pretty hard, we are all dry, but pretty happy. We are tired, but that just comes with the territory. We wish you were all here and we will check in later. RMI Guide Mark Tucker & Team

On The Map

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz July 9 - 14, 2017 led by RMI Guide Jake Beren reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning shortly before 7:30 am. The team has spent the last two days training on the route and will do some additional training this afternoon. After a bit more training tomorrow, they will pack up their camp and descend to Paradise to conclude their program. Congratulations to today's Kautz Climbers!

Hello one last time.

Today was our last day here in Tanzania so we opted for a moderately leisure departure from the tranquil Plantation Lodge.

Our first stop was to a huge gift shop so everyone could bring back a few souvenirs.
By the looks of it, a few people back home are getting some nice gifts too.

We made a quick stop off at Lake Manyara National Park. Normally the safari sightings here are always exciting, but sadly that was not the case today. It’s been incredibly wet this year and most of the drivable roads have been either flooded or completely washed out.
It was expedited to say the least.

The team has returned to our original lodge and are packed up headed for the airport.
Your loved ones should be home soon!

Thanks for following,

RMI Guide Casey Grom & Crew