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This is Dave Hahn calling from Advanced Base Camp on Mt. Everest. Myself and Linden Mallory came up today on our new formulated summit plan. We went from Base Camp to Camp 2 today. It was stunning to us the changes in the ice fall, there had been a massive avalanche that had come off the west shoulder, and came right down along the climbing route. It actually made the route better by filling in the crevasses and knocking over all the little walls we were climbing over. It was pretty sobering to think that that same avalanche had it come down when climbers were going though the ice fall, it would have killed many people. As it turned out it came down at a time, sometime this last week, when nobody was in the icefall. That was really something to see.
Linden and I came up through Camp 1 and straight up to Camp 2 in pretty good time and had good conditions. While we were walking there was cloud cover right from the start and from Camp 1 that was real helpful because it kept the sun off of us and light breezes as well so we didn’t dry out as much coming up here as we might normally have. Tcherring also came up so the three of us are up and we hope that Kaji and Dawa are able to come up tomorrow and that will be the making of our summit team. We are going to rest here tomorrow as planned. And take it easy at Advanced Base Camp tomorrow and hoping to go from ABC all the way up to Camp 4, skipping Camp 3 on the following day and be in place for our summit bid.
So we’ll see what the weather does. We are keeping careful track of the weather right now. It is snowing lightly here and Mark Tucker says it is snowing more heavily at Base Camp. We are very interested in what the weather does down there because Bill and Sara are hoping to fly via helicopter from Base Camp to Kathmandu. They weren’t able to fly today due to weather. So we are keeping our fingers crossed for them tomorrow.
That is all for the moment. We’ll be in touch.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
I remember when I first stepped into the mountains. I was 11 years old and I had never seen a mountain before, let alone thought of climbing one. My father, older brother, and I traveled to the White Mountains of New Hampshire to climb Mt. Washington (6,288’). I remember finally standing on top of the boulder pile that comprises the summit and feeling the accomplishment. "I did it, I'm on top!" It was windy—a wet cold cloud had moved in during the final hour of tedious boulder hoping to the top—and even at that age I remember quickly coming to the realization that I needed to turn around and walk back down! Mt. Washington is unique in that it has a paved road to the summit along with the world’s first mountain-climbing cog railway train. My brother insisted that we descend via the train. Luckily for me, my father obliged and shortly after the train started it's descent it began pouring. Although I was cozy in a train cabin watching the rain patter off the windows, I didn't soon forget my realization: the summit is only halfway.
You hear this quite often in the climbing world. The ability to efficiently descend is a crucial skill in regards to staying safe in the vertical world. Just as with standing on top of
Mt. Rainier,
Denali, or
Mt. Everest, getting down off of a rock climb requires the same amount of focus and effort as climbing it, and in a lot of ways requires much more.
Days 5 and 6 of our Rock Guide Course were focused on becoming proficient in our technical descent systems. I was paired up with RMI guide Pete Van Deventer and former RMI guide and current AMGA instructor Jeff Ward, and we traveled over to the Bunny Face Wall of Smith Rocks. On the easy and moderate multi-pitch sport climbs this area had to offer we discussed and practiced rappelling and lowering our climbers: the pro's and con's of each, when and why to use one over the other and a myriad of ways to be more efficient and provide the best experience possible for our climbers. Over the course of the next few days, we climbed a number of different routes and really got the opportunity to apply these techniques in mock guiding scenarios.
When you practice these skills for the first time—or any skill for that matter—it's usually done so in the "best-case scenario.” You start out easy so you can concentrate on the learning. In rock climbing the "best-case scenario" is pretty straightforward and easy to mitigate. Over the next several days of climbing, we learned that the best scenario rarely occurs. As guides, we need to always be prepared for the difficult scenario, and we had the benefit of climbing into some terrain that posed plenty of guiding challenges. This allowed for lots of hands on learning and problem solving. As guides, it's important that we keep our skills sharp and this course was a great reminder that that process truly never ends. 16 years ago I learned that getting to the top is only half way and 16 years later I'm still being reminded of that fact!
_____
Steve Gately grew up in Boston, MA, and found his love for the mountains in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. In 2012, Steve combined his passion for teaching, climbing, and the mountains when he started guiding for RMI. Steve now guides year round for RMI, from Argentina to Alaska. Steve will be guiding not one, not two, but three trips to
Aconcagua this winter!
A little over 7 miles of hiking brought us to the Perros glacier overlook and nearby camp. The wind, forest and rivers make for a soothing ambient soundtrack as the trail winds through the lenga trees. We are at the base of the Pass, fed & rested for the longest day to join the "W" circuit in the Grey Glacier Valley. The laughs continue as we get to know each other.
RMI Guide Mike King
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Torres del Paine Trek, February 3, 2024
Thursday, May 18, 2022 - 12:46 am PT
We took our time over coffee and breakfast burritos this morning, enjoying the slow start and the warming sun that doesn't hit camp until 9 am. Satiated, we left camp and moved quickly downhill to our cache at 9600', relishing the opportunity to stride it out and cover ground. We passed a lot of teams headed towards 11,000' Camp, slowly trudging under the loads of big packs and full sleds. With our cache retrieved, we worked out way back uphill to our cozy camp. Overall, 11,000' Camp felt like it doubled in size today and lots of folks were strolling around, enjoying a warm afternoon. We'll look to continue our momentum tomorrow caching a load of fuel and food up high near Windy Corner.
RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and team
Tuesday, June 22, 2021 - 11:22 pm PT
Hi,
Patience and more patience. Every day we look at the forecast and wonder how accurate will it be. Is the weather system going to happen or will it be nice out. Its a part of expedition life that is difficult. When do we move? Is this our time? Does it get better or worse? But no one truly knows. Its all in retrospect that we deliberate the decision and know the answer. So we wait. We wait for a forecast that is better than marginal. We have plenty of food and fuel to see if the winds will get better in the next handful of days. Patience is key. In due time it will be our moment, so we wait.
Good night,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
Hello everyone,
RMI’s
Kilimanjaro expedition is underway.
The team members arrived late last night after some very long flights, two back to back 9 hour legs to be precise. Needless to say we didn’t do much other than check into our hotel and head to bed.
We started today off with a team meeting/orientation to the program and gear check. After getting to know one another a bit we explored the beautiful grounds of the Dik Dik Hotel, which was teaming with monkeys and exotic birds and some views of the surrounding mountains.
The team had a nice lunch then headed off to visit the nearest town of Arusha, a bustling city of about 1.2 million people. Its a diverse culture made up of Christians, Muslims and local tribes people from the Chagga and Masai.
We had a quick stop off at the local grocery store called Shop Rite to pick up a few last snacks, then visited the local cultural museum. We also picked up a few umbrellas to protect us from any rain that might try and dampen our spirits on tomorrows trek.
Last but not least we finished up the night with a delicious five course meal that left everyone with a smile on their face.
Just a few last minute touches on packing and its off to bed.
Everyone is doing great and we are very excited for tomorrow's start to this grand adventure.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
A climber from Mark Tucker's
Kilimanjaro Climb, Mike Wyatt, composed the following poem about his summit day.
BLUE SNOW by Mike Wyatt
The air is cold, burns the lungs deep – Wish I was in bed fast asleep.
Obsidian night – Black as a raven feather.
Buttery crescent moon shepherds in good weather.
Heavy limbs fight the rocky slope – Trekkers tied by an invisible rope.
The echo of fatigue resonates down the line – Fiery meteorite the color of red wine.
The air is cold, burns the lungs deep – Wish I was in bed fast asleep.
Blindly pushing forward, we pass another team – What is reality? What is a dream?
Summiteers from years past whisper in my ear – not give in, for the peak is near.
I chase the heels before me repeatedly catching my breath – One unconscious slip could mean injury or death.
Tangerine pink color accent the sky – It’s pure silent beauty is no lie.
The crater rim now in sight – Ebullient hikers descend in weary flight.
Icy dry wind burns my face – Tired scarred boots don’t leave a trace.
The air still cold burns the lungs deep – I’m glad I am not in bed fast asleep.
For the glacier’s blue snow is still cold, hard and deep.
Our Four Day Summit Climb teams reached the top of Mt. Rainier early today, by the light of the blue moon. The
guides reported good weather, the winds were decreasing, and it was cold!
This summit climb marked
RMI Guide Brent Okita's 450th summit of Mt. Rainier! Congratulations on your remarkable milestone!
We would also like to congratulate RMI clients Alex and Julie. News from the summit this morning that Alex proposed to Julie and she accepted! A special day on
Mt. Rainier!
Last night we received another foot of snow, though it wasn't nearly as windy as the previous night. Although it was a significant storm, come morning something about it felt different causing me to check the weather regularly. Sure enough, by the time we got up at 9:30 the skies had cleared and it was beautiful. Except for the winds blowing the new snow around
Denali Pass and the ridge above.
It was yet just a little too windy for us, plus all the trail breaking of the previous days was gone, so we hung out at camp and enjoyed our nicest day at 17,200' yet. Another day for the snow to settle will help reduce any avalanche risk as well However, a report by another guide that poked his nose into the conditions affirms what we have been seeing already, and eases my mind considerably.
After a breakfast of grits, Leon, Lindsay and I went down to 16,200' to help out our next group led by Tyler Jones by bringing their cache of food and fuel up to 17,200'. This eases their move day enormously, and gets some provisions up here in case our already less than stellar luck with the weather turns south even further.
And now, for the first time all trip, I'm very optimistic about our chances for the summit. Things seem like they are finally falling info place. Of course, tomorrow is another day ...
Right now it is warm and windless, and we are getting ready for dinner. Wish us luck!!!
RMI Guide Brent Okita
On The Map
Hello everyone! We are back at basecamp after a very successful carry to, and cache at
Camp 1! The group did very well today, and now all of our upper mountain gear and food is staged for us. The next step: REST. Today was the first day of the trip with heavy packs, and for many of the group a new personal altitude record. Tomorrow we will spend the day at base, eating food, napping, and recovering tired muscles. If all goes according to plan, we will move our camp to 16,000 feet the day after tomorrow, and continue the process of acclimating and moving our gear up the
mountain. Everyone is excited to have completed our first big day, and sends their best!
All for now.
Cheers,
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Gilbert Chase, Gabriel Barral, and team
Dave and team, you can do it! Climb strong but be SAFE!
Posted by: Andrew Propst on 5/19/2011 at 11:30 pm
Climb strong, Linden, and good luck!!! Can’t wait to hear about it all!
Xo-Dana Marie and John
Posted by: Dana Marie Buchanan on 5/18/2011 at 6:54 pm
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