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I'm calling this the unofficial start to the
2013 RMI Mt. Everest Expedition. It can't be official yet because we are still waiting for Dave Hahn to arrive in Kathmandu after being delayed en route.
The rest of us have all arrived over the last two days and are doing great. We got together for dinner tonight in the district of Thamel, a crazy-maze of restaurants, shops, bars and hotels.
Tomorrow we'll spend the day picking up last minute items and getting packed for the trek into Everest Base Camp. We're all looking forward to getting started!
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
On The Map
Good Morning!
Most of team opted for a full educational day over a difficult summit climb. Summit team woke up at 10pm and with high winds in camp we made the call to skip the walk and prepare for a full educational day today. We will finish our expedition skills training here at Camp Schurman before descending tomorrow.
RMI Guide Drew O'Brien and Team
Our Summit Climb team, led by
RMI Guides Caleb Ladue and Mike Walter, reached the top of
Mt. Rainier this morning. With sunny skies and moderate winds, the team is making their way back to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's summit climbers!
Union Glacier camp was a busy place this morning. There were snowcat sledge trains and big-wheeled vans and tracked vehicles and snow machines of every sort and size zipping from A to B, plowing things flat, and simply hauling freight and people. Fuel drums were being fed to the Twin Otters and names were being written on luggage tags. The ALE staff were in overdrive and sixty outbound climbers and Antarctic enthusiasts were pleased, mellow and smiling. It was "Ilyushin Day".... Out with the old and in with the new on a grand scale.
My successful climbing team packed their bags and knocked their tents down in about five minutes... Ready to go home but also a little sad to be leaving this cold paradise. Around 1:30 PM, the big four engine Russian jet touched down with a great roar of reversed thrust out on the ice runway. My old gang got in one big offroad van with Seth Waterfall and headed for the plane and Punta. I'd shaken their hands and advised them to have a heck of a victory feast in town. They'd earned it. I stood for a while watching all the action and before long another big offroad van pulled up with my new climbing team.
Nicole, Brian, Joe and Bart were snapping pictures in all directions and smiling broadly. We got acquainted and oriented, waited a bit and then hurried up for a flight to Mount Vinson. By then it was dinner time and the Union folk felt bad about kicking us out of camp without a big feed, but clouds were closing in and we needed to get to the mountain. Mission accomplished (with a big pan full of hot pigs-in-a-blanket for inflight food) despite the encroaching storm, there were still a few thousand peaks to be seen out the windows of our ski plane. We landed at Vinson Basecamp around 8 PM and built our tents in our new home. My climbers haven't yet seen their mountain as it is cloaked in mist and light falling snow, but they will see plenty of the big hill, soon enough.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Wednesday, July 5, 2023 - 11:59 pm PT
Difficult day today, waiting for the weather to clear, then scrambling like crazy in the evening to fly and finally an unintentional split of the team. As some made it in to town and some remained on the mountain for the night.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Saturday, July 3, 2021 - 1:04 pm PT
We are stationary once again, waiting for any sign in the weather forecast that would indicate a potential good-weather window to move up to high camp and get in place for a summit bid. Today is overcast above us with light wind in camp, but we can still hear the wind up high. It's hard to complain about R & R time, but we're certainly ready for some weather that's more conducive for climbing.
We will check in again soon.
RMI Guide Mike Walter & Team
Whether training, or on your next climb, your feet are your Achilles heel. If you develop blisters, banged up toes, or pain in your feet or joints, the whole process of climbing comes to a grinding halt. While training for your climb, you’ll put in countless days with heavy weight on your back, countless miles of trail and rough terrain, and many, many hours on your feet. Taking good
care of your feet and giving them proper support through all of this training can help to minimize a lot of overuse injuries, and leave you feeling better for your upcoming climb. Get yourself a good pair of orthotics or at least a good supportive footbed for your training footwear and climbing boots.
Our leg alignment can change dramatically throughout our life, often as a result of changes in the structure of the foot. These changes in alignment, when you are in the midst of a heavy training load, can leave you with joint pain and a tendency towards persistent overuse injuries that can stick around and have a major impact on your training. Orthotics are often the best solution for fixing your alignment and keeping those injuries from cropping up. An orthotist can mold a footbed to help your alignment stay nearer the ideal. This helps your knees track straighter, joints stack over each other better, and femurs rotate in the hip socket more smoothly.
Many climbers rent boots for their climb. While rental boots are well made, high-end brands, they are not broken in to your foot. A custom orthotic or an aftermarket footbed such as “superfeet” is the best way to make that boot feel as though it has always been on your foot. With the long days climbing up and down
Rainier, or weeks on the glaciers of
Denali, that extra comfort and support can be a major boon to enjoying the experience.
In the last several years, there has been a lot of support for the idea of running in very low support shoes that mimic what it would be like to run barefoot. While studies do support the idea that this is better for your body when running or walking, the heavy loads that we put on our backs and the stiff to nearly rigid soles of the boots that we wear when training and climbing all demand that we support our feet. Look into your alignment and footbed needs and find your way to more comfortable climbing and training!
Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the
RMI Blog!
We got together after a relaxing breakfast in our tropical garden of a lodge and we talked about going up amongst the glaciers of
Kilimanjaro. It was a morning of going over the plan of attack and for discussing gear and best practices for staying healthy in this part of the world. The middle of the day was spent getting the gear and clothing sorted and by afternoon the team enjoyed a bit of free time to wander about or to nap. The wanderers didn't have to go far before they could see Kilimanjaro floating in the distance. The nappers surrendered for a short time to the jet lag we all feel.
The team enjoyed seeing groups of monkeys swinging through the trees of our compound as well as listening to strange birds call out as they cruised overhead.
We enjoyed a group dinner and some storytelling for the evening. It will be hard to leave this luxurious and laid back setting, but the thought of getting walking on the flanks of the largest freestanding mountain in the world is pretty enticing as well.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
We are back in the mountains again! And it feels great! Our team had a leisurely walk with light packs in the Vacas Valley. The clouds kept us cool and the sun off our backs.
After a nice picnic lunch along the
Vacas River we arrived at our first trekking camp. The team is relaxing and we are about to prepare some snacks before we sit down with the cowboys as they prepare an asado meal of steak, corn on the cob and grilled vegetables. There's no need to start eating ramen just yet.
Everyone says hello to friends and family and the guides say hello to our RMI family back in Ashford, WA.
Chau from Pampa de Lenas!
RMI Guide JJ Justman
May 22:
Resting here at 11,300' on
Mt. McKinley... Not much to report other than worsening weather through the day today and that while hanging in the posh (cook tent) the team was able to solve most of the world's problems. We broached the taboo subjects of politics, religion, economics, ancient societies/civilizations, space exploration, extraterrestrial copulation, ancient ruins, plate tectonics, coral atoll nations and the rising sea level, doomsday cults, classic car restoration, moral bankruptcy, and escalating health care costs just to name a few. Currently it's snowing moderately but fortunately without wind. A good day to rest after all. Hopefully we get a small break in the weather tomorrow so we can push a load of food and fuel up around Windy Corner which will put us in position to move up to 14k camp.
Ciao,
RMI Guides Billy Nugent,
Geoff Schellens and
Gilbert Chase
May 21:
After an uneventful night we awoke to more mostly sunny weather with some high cirrus clouds. The plan was to sleep in a little and enjoy the first morning of the expedition where we didn't have the chore of breaking camp. We enjoyed a delicious breakfast of smoked salmon on toasted bagels with cream cheese and then geared up for our walk down to the cache at 9,600'. After less than four hours we had retrieved all of our groceries and returned to camp at 11k. After eating dinner and hanging out, the glacier in camp suddenly settled sending a large shock-wave through the ground, needless to say scaring the crap out of everyone. I've never really felt a glacier do that before, pretty wild. Tomorrow calls for a rest day which might be good timing with the weather as things seem to be slightly deteriorating. There are some lenticular clouds forming on the peaks across the Kahiltna which may be indicative of some moisture on he way.
Will check in tomorrow from our rest day...
RMI Guide Billy Nugent and the gang.
May 20:
Hi everyone.
Today was another great day of unbelievable weather for our push up to the 11,000' camp. We left behind a cache at our previous camp at 9,600' of mostly food and fuel (alongside some miscellaneous personal items) and thus enjoyed a significantly lighter move than the loads from the previous two days. After a little bit of digging and improving of an abandoned camp we moved in and enjoyed a great tortellini dinner.
Hoping for a smooth first night at a new elevation,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
On The Map
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Godspeed to Mark and the whole team!!! Praying for a safe climb!!!
Posted by: marcus on 3/25/2013 at 8:22 pm
Looking forward to the updates of your expedition. Save travels!
Posted by: Ken Allen on 3/25/2013 at 5:16 pm
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