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Mt. Rainier: Five Day Summit Climb Summit!

May 16, 2012

Posted by: Brent Okita, Casey Grom

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

SUMMIT! Our first Five Day Summit Climb of the 2012 Season reached the top of Mt. Rainier this morning. RMI Guides Brent Okita and Casey Grom and their teams reported clear skies and moderate winds. They began their descent at 7:30 a.m. and are en route to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's team.

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Team Turns at 12,900’

August 14, 2024

Posted by: Joe Hoch, George Hedreen, Will Ambler, Joey Manship, Mac Nolde, Evan Redman

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 12,900'

The Four Day Climb Led by Joe Hoch and George Hedreen climbed to 12,900' but were stopped by ice fall activity that coverd the current climbing route. The team is safely back at Camp Muir and will be returning to Paradise in the early afternoon.

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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Split Up, Some Return to Talkeetna

July 6, 2023

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Dustin Wittmier, Sam Marjerison, Michael Murray

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7300'/ 348'

Wednesday, July 5, 2023 - 11:59 pm PT

Difficult day today, waiting for the weather to clear, then scrambling like crazy in the evening to fly and finally an unintentional split of the team. As some made it in to town and some remained on the mountain for the night.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Rest and Wait at 14,000’ Camp

May 25, 2023

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Henry Coppolillo, Tatum Whatford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Wednesday, May 24, 2023 - 11:14 pm PT

It was a good day for us to sit. Yesterday's strong effort meant everyone slept well, and long. We got up late, enjoyed our last bagels and smoked salmon, told stories, and generally enjoyed the rest day. Snow and clouds intermittently invaded camp, with some breaks of brilliantly strong sunshine. For a bit of movement and boredom cure, we built a bunch of walls to deflect the wind that may come tomorrow. Tomorrow, we will rest again, as the forecast calls for winds at 17,000' to elevate significantly tomorrow. We'll see how this weather system plays out, and it's good comfort for us to know that all of our pieces are in place and when the window opens, we'll be ready.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

Manaslu Expedition: RMI Guide Alex Barber Readies for His Summit Attempt

September 22, 2014

Posted by:

Categories: Guide News Guide Grant

"Analysis paralysis" is an accurate summation of my last few days here at Manaslu Base Camp. I've been reviewing weather information for the coming week collected from different teams and sources, paid forecasts, free forecasts, second hand forecasts. Of course, they all project different weather conditions. There is a general trend though... starting Thursday the 25th to Sunday the 28th looks like it might be a decent window for my summit day. The 25th being the worst day with 30+mph winds at the peak. Saturday, the 27th, is forecast to have 5 to 10mph winds but possibly precipitation. That precipitation could just be the result of a few days of good weather causing afternoon snow showers or a larger deposit. In this part of the Himalaya it can be hard to predict - and this is too many days out for a mountain weather forecast to be highly reliable. Decision time - It all comes down to this, the time, the money, and the mental dedication. I will depart in the morning tomorrow, the 23rd, for Camp 1, the 24th I'll climb directly to Camp 3 then if the weather window looks decent the 25th I'll move Camp 3 to Camp 4 and push to the summit the morning of the 26th. I'll keep the 27th as a backup day as it is currently forecasted to be the best day. I do not plan to stop at camp 2 on purpose because the entire area around camp 2 is unstable and dangerous. The many seracs and ice cliffs higher up the mountain - with large slopes below to accumulate snow - is a bad day just waiting to happen. This site is not for me. I'll just push through to camp 3, which is in a much safer location - as I described in an earlier post. I'll check back in from the upper mountain in the next couple of days with a weather update and my progress up the mountain. The photo below shows a view from base camp up towards the peak of Manaslu, my objective for this week. RMI Guide Alex Barber

Ecuador: Nugent & Team Descend from Cayambe

June 25, 2012

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

RMI Guide Billy Nugent and team were forced to abort their summit bid on Cayambe due to windy and snowy conditions. After resting and trying to dry out in the hut they began an eventful drive down the mountain with muddy roads, lots of snow and a flat tire. The team is resting nicely at the Chilcabamba Eco Lodge at the base of Cotopaxi. Listen to Billy's dispatch below for more details. We look forward to hearing from the team tomorrow to see what the weather has in store for them.

RMI Guide Billy Nugent checks in after the team's summit bid and descent from Cayambe.

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Everest Base Camp Trek: Arriving in Lobuche

March 23, 2012

Posted by: Linden Mallory

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek

Elevation: 16,175'

Another beautiful day greeted us this morning. After breakfast we reluctantly said goodbye to the accommodations and staff of our tea-house in Pheriche and set off up the valley. The trail ran through small clumps of juniper and back and forth across streams running down from the hillsides, reaching a collection of stone buildings and fields where yaks are pastured in the evenings. The vegetation continued to thin out, the grass getting shorter and eventually the juniper bushes disappearing from the landscape as we made our way higher. Eventually we began the ascent to Thokla Pass, a climb up the toe of the moraine created by the forward push of the Khumbu Glacier. Although a moderate climb in length and height, the elevation makes it challenging and we spent the better part of two hours picking our way up the hillside. Partway up is the small "village" of Thokla, in reality little more than two tea-houses sheltered from the winds that blow up the valley, but the perfect breaking spot for trekkers and yak herders making their way up the climb. We sat in the sun for a few minutes resting and sipping on tea before resuming our ascent, reaching the top of Thokla Pass at well over 15,000' by midday. Built along the ridgelines of the pass are dozens of small chortens, each one paying tribute to climbers and Sherpas that have lost their lives on Mt. Everest. With views out to the surrounding mountains and prayer flags streaming from the many memorials, it is a solemn place that commemorates many famous climbers. Continuing from the top of the pass we ascended into a shallow valley that runs parallel to the Khumbu Glacier, finding our way among the boulders and rocks that border a small stream that was completely frozen over, even in the midday sun. After another hour of walking we reached our tea-house in the village of Lobuche. Tucked into a small recess in the side of the valley, Lobuche was traditionally a summer grazing grounds for herds of yaks but now is more popular with trekkers and climbing expeditions on their way to Everest. Although the landscape is quite barren around us, our tea-house is warm and comfortable in the midday sun. We have all been surprised at how warm the temperatures have been the past few days. We settled into the tea-house and spent final part of the afternoon sipping on tea and reading, focusing on breathing well, even at rest, as we adjust to these higher altitudes. Tomorrow we head to Gorak Shep, the last village before Everest Base Camp, and hope to climb to the summit of Kala Patar above it in the afternoon if the weather cooperates. The team continues to do well and sends their best to everyone at home. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

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Skills Review and Rest Day for RMI Team

June 23, 2010

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

After starting the morning with breakfast burritos, coffee, and tea, we hiked out to the glacier to review climbing skills--such as cramponing and ice axe arrest. The rest of the day is spent resting, eating and drinking, and preparing for our summit attempt tonight/tomorrow morning. The weather is looking good right now: partly cloudy skies and light wind. Cross your fingers for us that it stays that way! Everyone is feeling strong and climbing well. I will be in touch tomorrow.

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Mt. Rainier: Paradise Seminar Team Reaches Summit

August 13, 2023

Posted by: Ben Luedtke, Jackson Breen, Joey Manship

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise August 8 - 13 team met last Tuesday at Rainier BaseCamp for their first day of Technical Skills training. On Wednesday, led by RMI Guides Ben Luedtke, Jackson Breen and Joey Manship they headed to Paradise and hiked to their first camp. The team spent the next several days learning and practicing glacier travel skills, crevasse rescue and expedition style climbing. Yesterday they bumped camp to 10,080' Camp Muir and with an alpine start this morning they reached the summit of Mt. Rainier. The team is safely back at Camp Muir where they will have a short break to repack and re-fuel for the remaining 4,500' down to Paradise. They will conclude their program with a celebration at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

Congratulations to the team!

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Mt. Rainier: May 31st Summit!

May 31, 2014

Posted by: Katrina Bloemsma, Casey Grom, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Casey Grom reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at about 7:35am PT. The team reported clear skies and calm climbing conditions. The team will spend some time on the Summit before starting their descent to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's team!

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Most Popular Entries

Mt. Rainier: Five Day Summit Climb Summit!

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Team Turns at 12,900’

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Split Up, Some Return to Talkeetna

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Rest and Wait at 14,000’ Camp

Manaslu Expedition: RMI Guide Alex Barber Readies for His Summit Attempt

Ecuador: Nugent & Team Descend from Cayambe

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Everest Base Camp Trek: Arriving in Lobuche

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Skills Review and Rest Day for RMI Team

Mt. Rainier: Paradise Seminar Team Reaches Summit

Mt. Rainier: May 31st Summit!

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