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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team - Basecamp is the Spot

The word "team" is what we are; the confidence and style this team has possessed has been outstanding. Team Jones/Frank/Randolph is excited to be in base camp on the Southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. We woke up a number of times through last night to gusty winds and white-out conditions at 11k camp. The guides choice was to wait the weather out. Denali was again giving our group another challenge. The team solved this one with some rest and a long pancake breakfast. An afternoon clearing provided motivation for an evening walk, our final walk that provided everything from blowing snow to pristine clear skies. The sunset reeled us in toward the north face of Mt. Hunter lit in the soft evening light completing our final push to Kahiltna Basecamp at 7,800 ft. While conditions look prime at base camp and it looks like we will fly out tomorrow, we don't want to count our chickens before they hatch. You never know what Denali, or as we have called her "De-Gnarly," has in store for us. Laying here in our sleeping bags in the thick, moist air, it's tough to imagine that we were at 20,320 feet just the day before yesterday. The crew is ready to celebrate our safe and successful summit with the loved ones that allowed us to be in Alaska for this journey. Thank you family and friends for the support. This journey to the top of North America and back has been a long and never to be forgotten experience. We look forward to recalling our time spent in the mountains with a dinner out wearing sandals and shorts along with being back on turf with trees, rivers, and just plain dirt in Talkeetna. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations JB and team for the strong and safe summit of Denali! Your friends here at AMC are anxious to here the details and wish you good weather for the flight off.

Posted by: Rick on 6/19/2012 at 12:42 pm

That was a fast descent.Thank you Tyler, Eric and Logan for bringing everybody back down Denali in good spirit and shape!
À bientôt Nicolas!

Posted by: louise on 6/18/2012 at 1:40 pm


Denali Expedition: Bond & Team Land on Glacier, Establish First Camp

Tuesday, June 6, 2023 - 11:11 pm PT

The RMI team lead by RMI Guides Andy Bond, Jack Delaney and Joey Manship thoroughly enjoyed the K2 flight in to base camp this morning. The views were spectacular! We began our climb for a short distance down hill before beginning the arduous journey with heavy packs and full sleds up what we referred to as Blister Hill. The team made excellent time and established our camp at 7,800 feet elevation on the flats at the base of Ski Hill. As the clouds rolled in and a light snow began to fall we enjoyed delicious burritos and looked forward to a well deserved nights rest. 

Climber Jeff Ebeling

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Looking forward to following your progress   Take lots of pictures Andy.
Steve

Posted by: Steve Kickert on 6/7/2023 at 6:25 pm

Great to hear day 1 was a success! We wish the best of luck and best of weather! -Love, Jeff’s family! ❤️

Posted by: Jill Ebeling on 6/7/2023 at 1:04 pm


Aconcagua: Cifelli and Team Enjoy Rest Day at 18k

I thought that some of our followers at home might enjoy an insider’s view of daily camp life. So, here it is:

The evening began with a six p.m. dinner of pasta lightly tossed in olive oil with sautéed bell peppers and onions and topped with grated Parmesan cheese. You could smell the delicious aroma circling the camp. After crawling into our tents, some of us watched videos, others read books, while Pops wrote poetry. Although we were tired and the weather was good for sleeping, we are each faced with a nightly dilemma - waking up with an urge to use a bathroom (which doesn’t exist above base camp).

The thoughts running through your head include: do I really need to get out of the warm comfort of my sleeping bag? Can’t I just go back to sleep and go later? It’s too cold outside! Will I disturb my tent mate? It takes too much energy. Where’s my toilet paper? Is my pee bottle already full?

These thoughts are on an endless repeat in your head until you finally give in and stumble out of the tent to take care of business.

With a sense of relief, you crawl back into your tent and kick yourself for wasting a half hour of sleep and not just getting up at the first urge. But the night continues with lots of twisting and turning as we try to find that perfect position until our arm or leg falls asleep - necessitating another turn. We still manage to get enough rest to climb upwards and onward.

Speaking of business - choosing a place to poop.

At camp, we do have a designated poop tent; however, there are many things to consider. We are each issued a big plastic bag which we can use in the poop tent by putting it into a big plastic bucket or finding a private spot and squatting. The upside to the tent is having a seat and the privacy of a tent. The downside is trying to separate pee from poop.

The other option is walking away from camp and squatting over the bag. The downsides are missing the bag, your private spot isn’t so private, and the huffing and puffing that occurs during the search. The upsides are the beauty of nature, no smelly hot tent, and easier to separate the pee from the poo. That’s probably TMI but this is part of camp life.

 

This morning we were gently awoken by Dom’s door to door tent service with hot drinks. It was the coldest night so far and none of us were particularly interested in leaving the warm sanctuary of our sleeping bags. Making the tent service much appreciated.

As the sun rose, our tents began to warm and we mustered the courage to emerge and begin our day of relaxing, recovering, and acclimatizing. The day started with another amazing breakfast of hash browns scrambled with bacon, peppers, and onions. Cooking this type of breakfast is no easy feat with limited pans, scarce utensils, and camp stoves that burn like jet engines.

We ate seated on rocks arranged in a circle while wearing gloves, hats, parkas, and puffy pants, as the morning remained cold. One moment, we are putting on layers and the next, we are taking them off. It’s a constant rotation of clothing. Conversations around the circle included what it’s like to be a cowboy, crazy outhouse stories, and how delicious rocky mountain oysters can be when fried over a campfire.

During the day, we take short walks around camp, eat more food so we don’t have to carry it, nap during the heat of the day, listen to music, read books, enjoy a variety of conversations, and play cutthroat card games. This recharges our batteries as we prepare for a carry to our last camp at 19,600’ tomorrow.

 

Mary Beth Kempner, aka “the editor”

PS Don’t worry Floyd, I’ve only temporarily taken over your job as editor. You are the editor of my life!

PSS Angela - thanks for your encouragement.

PSSS Shout out to Hudson for taking on the role of editor tonight

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good job MBK!  Our best to all of you for the summit push.  Karen, Micki and Bart

Posted by: Karen Loeffler on 2/1/2023 at 3:48 pm

Thrilling you are that far. Go for it! love and light to the top! What a breathtaking experience this must be, and unforgettable. I know your tired and worn, we know climbing is more than just the summit. Your incredible courage and accomplishment will be felt for a lifetime. You GOT THIS! Love you Teri

Posted by: Teri Derr on 2/1/2023 at 7:29 am


Mt. Rainier: The Winter Seminar Tries for the Summit

We left Camp Muir this morning at 4: There was a cap over the summit from the outset of our climb but we were thankful the winds from yesterday evening had abated and hoped the cap would follow suit.45 a.m. in reasonable winds. The team took to heart the lessons learned at yesterday’s climbing school and climbed strong on the upper mountain in deteriorating conditions. I began the route finding effort up the Ingraham Direct but gave way to RMI Guide Zeb Blais as he led the team up to a break at 12,800’. As we switchbacked our way up the mountain, we encountered increasing wind speeds and steadily decreasing visibility. We made the smart and safe choice to call 13,400’ our high point for the day. On our descent to Camp Muir, clouds would billow up from below causing white out conditions followed by periods of visibility. This process repeated continually until we returned to Camp Muir. We’re back at Camp Muir safe and sound. We are looking forward to a low-key afternoon at camp with a siesta and some easy training on the schedule. Signing off for now, RMI Guide Brent Okita
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Zeb led the way for Mariana and I out of Camp Muir on June 20, 2010.  He got us up to Ingraham Glacier before returning with climbers.  Mariana and I continued to the summit, led by Solveig Waterfall.  I will always be grateful to Zeb for his kind and thoughtful pace out of Muir . . . I’ve not seen him since, but want to send a big hello his way and the heads up that I will be forever grateful to him for his efforts that Father’s Day.  Thanks, Zeb!!!

Posted by: Josephine Johnson on 4/17/2014 at 9:58 pm

Thanks for keeping my guys safe and sound!  Think warm thoughts!  Hugs to Mike and Steve

Posted by: cathy on 4/16/2014 at 7:59 pm


Mt. Rainier: September 10th Summit!

At 9:30am the Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Billy Nugent and Geoff Schellens we descending from the crater rim. They reported 60+ mph winds on the summit. The teams are making their descent back to Camp Muir and will be back in Ashford late the afternoon. The Expedition Skills Seminar – Muir is beginning their ascent to Camp Muir where they will spend the week training. Congratulations to today's summit climb teams and good luck to the Expedition Skills Seminar!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I’m so proud of you! Now hurry up and get some safe and sound :)

Posted by: Julia Gulia on 9/10/2012 at 2:47 pm

great job guys. i can only imagine the suffering going on in those conditions and how strong you all are to give that a go. i was really wishing you a blue bird summit, but i know you’ll have epic stories to tell from probably an even more spiritual adventure.—ethan

Posted by: ethan kutzscher on 9/10/2012 at 12:03 pm


Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Cache Supplies and Head Back to 11K Camp

And we were getting so lucky with weather to this point... Ah well, we did our best to make use of a break in the snow and wind today. It started, here at 11,000 ft, with a snowy and socked-in morning. Many a team leader came out of his or her tent and then went right back inside, waiting for something better to work with. We were up at 7... but then gave it a pass until 8 and then we took a look at 9 and had breakfast. Things did start looking up by 10 and a few teams went for it. We liked the trend by 11 since we were seeing a lot of blue sky above (the uppermost part of the mountain was still in cloud) and only some indication of wind here and there. We were wearing our spikes and carrying our ice axes out of camp by 12:20. Our intention was to carry food and fuel up and around Windy Corner, cache it and then drop back down to 11 camp. The first hour went great. That was spent on "Motorcycle Hill" which was far steeper than any hill we'd tackled so far on the climb. From the top of Motorcycle, we could see winds starting to whip at the top of "Squirrel Hill" our goal for the next hour. We topped the hill in a fairly vicious and cold breeze and pushed on into the "Polo Fields" below the end of the West Buttress. From there, we had a good view of Windy Corner, which looked... you guessed it, windy. We decided not to push things too far, although the team was handling everything just fine to this point. We chose a cache site at about 12,850 ft and dug in. The only reason for burying it all is that ravens long ago developed a taste for climber food and a talent for ripping a cache to shreds. We couldn't see any ravens, but by this point in the day we were seeing a lot of blowing snow and swirling cloud again. With light packs, we made good time getting down the hills and back into 11k. We were home by 5:30 and dining in the shelter of our posh tent by 7:00 while the storm intensified. It isn't a terrible storm yet, just some wind and snow, but we hope it plays out overnight and leaves us in peace. Your messages to the web site were passed on to us and were thoroughly enjoyed by all the team. Thanks for the well wishes... keep those fingers crossed. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Daddy (Brian), I miss you and I want to go camping in that orange tent with you when you get home.  (Direct quote from Connor)

Hope you and the team had some relaxing down time and that tomorrow brings good climbing weather. Stay safe, we love you!

Posted by: Connor Bulatao on 7/5/2012 at 6:12 am

Hello Brian! I hope that you and the team have a good climb, and I have added you and the team to the chruch prayer list for a safe trip. Love, Mom Bulatao

Posted by: Mom Bulatao on 7/4/2012 at 4:45 pm


Mt. Rainier: June 28th Update

Our Four Day Summit Climb Led by RMI Guide Brent Okita reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The team experienced clear weather, but strong winds. They were able to spend a short amount of time on top and are now descending back to Camp Muir. RMI Guide Andres Marin and the Expedition Skills Seminar – Kautz Team made a summit attempt this morning, but experienced much different conditions on the Kautz route and were forced to turn back due to strong winds. The team will spend the rest of their time on the mountain honing their mountaineering skills. Congratulations to today's teams!
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

WHAT’S YOUR PROGRESS? FAMILY IS WATCHING. SAFE TRAVELS DOWN. GODSPEED AND LOTS OF LOVE.

Posted by: FRED CHANEY on 6/28/2012 at 2:36 pm


Mt. Rainier: Emmons Seminar Led by Andy Bond Reaches Summit

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by RM Guide Andy Bond reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The team got an early start from Camp Schurman and reached the summit around 5:30 am. They will return to Camp Schurman for their final night on the mountain. Enjoy these photos from RMI Guide David Price taken from the summit crater of Mt. Rainier this morning.

Congratulations to today's Emmons team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Doug and Erik — you went, you saw, you conquered!  Revel in it!
Rich

Posted by: Rich on 6/24/2021 at 8:20 pm

Congrats Giorgio Kulp on checking off climb one in the ole bucket list. We are proud of your determination and the accomplishment. Can’t wait to hear the story of your adventure. Congrats to the entire team!

Posted by: Debbie Snyder and the Kulprits on 6/24/2021 at 6:23 pm


Mt. Elbrus: Justman and Team Check in from Cheget

Hello RMI family. The team had a great flight from Moscow to Mineralyne Vody. We met Vladimir who will be with us on the mountain. Judging from his light heartedness, I am predicting we are going to have a few laughs. We drove to Cheget, which is a destination for skiers. Our hotel is situated in the foothills of Mount Elbrus. I do have to admit my surprise. The last time I was on the south side of Elbrus I didn't remember such a beautiful and charming hotel. I am glad we are staying two nights here to acclimatize and prepare gear. After all, there's nothing wrong with First Class, even if it's in the mountains. RMI Guide J.J. Justman

On The Map

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Everest Base Camp Trek: Great Hike to Lobuche

We had a great hike up here to Lobuche. Everyone's doing well and we're all excited to be here. Moving up to up to Gorak Shep tomorrow. Hope we will be able to send a dispatch out via iPad. So, sign off for now and wishing everybody the best. RMI Guide Mark Tucker


RMI Guide Mark Tucker checks in from Lobuche.

On The Map

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