Most Popular Entries
Posted by: Adam Knoff
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek and Lobuche
Elevation: 11,300'




Today was pleasantly uneventful here in the Khumbu. We are starting to fall into a nice routine up here aided by the familiarity of the food, the daily packing list and what to expect weather wise. I am very impressed with everyone adjusting so quickly and favorably to the Sherpa menu items often eating porridge for breakfast, noodles and momos for lunch and some kind of sherpa stew or rice dish for dinner. We are all leaving the fried food and pizza items alone which I think secretly impresses our local guides.
After that fine bowl of porridge this morning the RMI team, led by Dawn and Denza Sherpa packed our not so heavy day bags and made a lovely two hour trek into the Thame valley to visit an all women’s nunnery which I believe is the only one of its kind in the entire area. We sat in on a stunning prayer ceremony while sitting mesmerized by the cadence and tone of the prayers, all read from a scripture. All of us with technology raised fine western children all asked each other how long we thought our kids would last sitting cross legged on the floor praying through a rhythmic chant while reading a bible. I think the average answer was around 30 seconds. The Buddhist nuns and monks will pray for three to six hours a day for 30 years. What a crazy different world we all exist in!
Once we finished with the monastery we had some tea then retraced our steps back to Namche for lunch and more shopping. I can’t get over how much the village has changed! So many new structures and lodges. I hardly recognized it walking through the gates yesterday at the bottom of the hill.
By 5 pm were practicing some knots and technical skills on the extreme angles of the lodge’s front steps. After everyone displayed ample confidence in arm wraps and figure Eights, dinner was on the table so we wrapped up our day sitting by the fire eating exactly what makes us happy.
Now in bed we are prepped and ready for a nice long hike to Phortse which holds a special place in my heart.
Find out why tomorrow.
Namaste from Hotel Camp De Base, Namche Bazaar.


The team led by RMI Guides Dustin Wittmier and Matias Francis reached the summit of Mt. Triumph today! The team climbed Triumph's northeast ridge to the summit where they enjoyed views deep into the North Cascades, including Mt. Baker. The team is making the most of their time in the North Cascades and plan to climb Thornton Peak tomorrow before their program concludes later this week.
Posted by: Grayson Swingle, Matias Francis, Leif Bergstrom, Ben Liken, Steve Gately, Seth Burns
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,200'
RMI Guides Grayson Swingle and Ben Liken reported the Five-Day climbing teams enjoyed a beautiful sunrise this morning. The team spent two nights at Camp Muir and enjoyed lots of hands-on training and practice to enhance their glacier travel skills all while ascending to Camp Muir in wonderful spring conditions. The team will descend to Basecamp and celebrate their accomplishments before everyone begins their next adventure home.
Posted by: Steve Gately, Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello, George Hedreen, Lily Emerson
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,200'




RMI Guides Hannah Smith and Steve Gately and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir Team spent a fun week on Mt. Rainier learning new mountaineering skills such as snow & ice anchors, crevasse rescue, ice climbing, fixed line travel, belaying and other technical skills needed to tackle the world's greatest peaks. The team spend their time training on the Cowlitz and Ingraham glaciers that surround Camp Muir and made it to Ingraham Flats at 11,200' to enjoy the incredible views of other peaks in the Cascade Range.
Congratulations Team!
Posted by: Joe Hoch, Abby Westling, Evan Sather
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 9,131'

RMI Guide Joe Hoch reported beautiful views from their climb of Mt. Shuksan yesterday. Joe reported the following message from the summit: "Despite ominous smoke plumes all around us, we had a spectacular summit with a clear sky, warm temps, and views of so many mountains!"
The team has made it back to their cars and are headed home after their successful summit of Mt. Shuksan.
Congrats team!
Looking back on this trip, I’m grateful to the team at RMI for their knowledge and approach to getting us to the top of Mt. Shuksan safely. Joe’s avalanche/snow experience combined with Abby’s big mountain and Evan’s rock knowledge were key to helping us make good decisions, learn and summit safely.
Posted by: Tyler Welch on 2/1/2023 at 7:07 pm
Posted by: Jack Delaney, Roland Scott
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 10,781'

Tuesday, September 5, 2022 8:10 am PDT
SUMMIT!
RMI Guide Jack Delaney called in at 8:10 am PDT from the summit of Mt. Baker. The team climbed via the Easton Glacier route. The early morning temperatures were cool, but great for climbing! The team is on the descent and will be back at their high camp at about 6,800' where they will spend the night, and plan to descend early tomorrow.
Congratulations Team!
Monday, September 5, 2022 5:06 pm PDT
Greetings from the team with the two tallest guides at RMI!
We hiked into Sandy Camp on the flanks of Mt. Baker yesterday. The hike in was slightly overcast but great temperatures for hiking with a heavy pack. Once we got to camp we quickly set up tents as the overcast clouds had become dark and threatening. Lucky for us the rain started as soon as we moved into our tents. The rest of the night was spent hunkered down inside our nice dry tents except for a brief lull in the rain that we took advantage of to boil water for dinner. This morning we awoke to dry weather with partly sunny sky's. Today we'll practice all the mountaineering skills necessary for our ascent of Baker starting in the wee hours of the night this evening!
RMI Guides Jack, Roland & Team
Posted by: Alan Davis, Dustin Wittmier, Tatum Whatford, George Hedreen, Tyler Meyers, Lacie Smith
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climb July 26 - 29, 2022 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. RMI Guides Alan Davis & Dustin Wittmier led today's climbers to the crater at 14,410'. Warm temperatures and clear skies continue, allowing great views in all directions. The team began their descent from the crater rim around 6:20 am and are making their way back to Camp Muir. After a quick stop at Muir, the teams will continue the final 4,500' descent to Paradise and transfer to Rainier Basecamp. The team will conclude thier program this afternoon with a celebration.
Nice climbing team!




Bill,
I just finished reading your blog (sorry I was a bit late checking the update), and was blown away by the fortitude and conviction you displayed in making your decision.
It had to have been an incredibly difficult one for you to make- and at the same time, NOT. The reasons you listed were, needless to say, all overwhelmingly outweighed the decision to carry on up the mountain. although I’m sure the pull was and is still strong, you showed even greater strength in staying put at Base Camp and “taking one for the team”.
This extra time at Base Camp also provides you with an opportunity to win back the expedition fees via the late night Texas Hold ‘Em winnings you are bound to take in! Don’t forget to play the “Oh woe is me, I’m all alone down here at base camp while my daughter is up there on the summit without me” sympathy card! That should be good for a few extra chips or let you pass on the ante a few times…
Anyway, on behalf of the Benno Group congrats on your achievement. You’re an inspiration to us mere mortals down here at sea level.
See you in August?
Best,
Marc
Posted by: Marc Reiter on 5/11/2011 at 1:38 pm
Bill- I haven’t checked in for awhile. We met in Gorak Shep. I was on the Island Peak team. Just wanted to weigh in. When we all met a few weeks ago, I sensed something pretty unique between you and Sara. The fact that you made the decision you did speaks volumes of the kind of person you are.
Dzum Dzum!
Tim
Posted by: Tim McLaughlin on 5/9/2011 at 10:42 pm
Posted by: James Bealer, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,200'

Strong winds overnight kept the teams at Camp Muir. Telemetry shows wind gusts in the 50-60 mph range. RMI Guide Henry Coppolillo reported a nice morning at Camp Muir as the wind continued to decrease. Around 7 am, the teams were going to ascend to Ingraham Flats to explore the terrain above Camp Muir and enjoy the sunshine. The teams will return to Camp Muir, pack their gear and descend to Paradise later this morning.
Wish I could be there with you! It all sounds and looks wonderful.
Posted by: Catherine on 3/25/2022 at 4:02 pm
Glad your team is doing well and continue the great updates on your trip and comparisons to trips past. Thx and Best
Posted by: Jane on 3/25/2022 at 9:54 am
View All Comments