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Posted by: Dustin Wittmier, Matias Francis
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Elevation: 15,354'
November 2, 2021 - 6:33 am PT
Yesterday we did our first serious acclimatizing by hiking Rucu Pichincha. It is a fun hike that includes a gondola ride to 13,000' where we began our ascent to Rucu Pichincha, with an official summit elevation of 15354'. The entire team made it to the summit after a few hours of hiking and a short scramble. We then hustled down to avoid the afternoon rains and arrived back at the gondola before getting wet. This morning we are headed to Iliniza to make a summit attempt on Iliniza Norte tomorrow!
Early season weather kept the Mt. Rainier Five Day Climb from ascending above Camp Muir. The teams, led by RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Andy Bond reported windy and snowy conditions at Camp Muir. The climbers will make their descent to Paradise this morning and will be back in Ashford later day.
So good to meet you all and thanks to Andy and the gang for a fantastic time on the mountain. I’ll see you guys again in August for an hopefully successful summit bid.
The closed Longmire Gate still haunts my dreams.
Posted by: Xavier on 5/3/2022 at 7:08 am
Posted by: Dave Hahn
Categories: Guide News
Posted by: Walter Hailes, Robert Whyte
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 10,781'
The Mt. Baker - Easton Glacier Team with Walt Hailes reached 10,781' summit via the Easton Glacier. The team had perfect weather and route conditions for the climb.
Congratulations Team!
Posted by: Joe Horiskey
Categories: Guide News
Summited with Joe as the lead guide on a July 1980 trip. I was the anchor on his rope team and wrote about the climb for The Daily World in Aberdeen. I remember that the southeast flanks of the mountain below 13,000 feet were covered in ash from Mount St. Helens eruptions. At our rest stop above DC, Joe gave us a pep talk about some dicey crevasses that awaited us. He said, “Let’s just grab the bull by the horns and go.”
Posted by: John Dodge on 8/14/2024 at 3:26 pm
Great story, thank you for telling us about it. I loved the part when you said “lo and behold someone decided to call it quits after passing through the DC”.This part was where three of my team members last year decided to turn around too ( and I will admit I was about ready to also if guide Bridgette B. hadn’t coached me through my anxiety). RMI has great guides that put their lives in jeopardy so people can achieve their personal goal of reaching the summit. Thank you so much! And Joe, congrats and a high-five for your very first summit at age sixteen!
Posted by: Stephanie Antich on 7/20/2015 at 12:03 am
Posted by: Casey Grom, Abby Westling, JT Schmitt, Lily Emerson, Jenna Burkey, Cal Seeley
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,080'
Continuous rain overnight at Camp Muir, kept the Five Day climb July 2 - 6 teams from making their summit attempt. RMI Guide Casey Grom reported a slight break in the weather but the rain was continuing. They plan to leave Camp Muir around 9:30 am for a hopefully dry walk down to Paradise. The teams should return to Rainier BaseCamp in the early afternoon.
Thank you Abby, Casey and all the guides for your leadership and hard work to help us all develop our mountaineering skills.
Posted by: Jeff Wrobel on 7/7/2022 at 7:24 am
Posted by: Adam Knoff
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek and Lobuche
Elevation: 11,300'
Today was pleasantly uneventful here in the Khumbu. We are starting to fall into a nice routine up here aided by the familiarity of the food, the daily packing list and what to expect weather wise. I am very impressed with everyone adjusting so quickly and favorably to the Sherpa menu items often eating porridge for breakfast, noodles and momos for lunch and some kind of sherpa stew or rice dish for dinner. We are all leaving the fried food and pizza items alone which I think secretly impresses our local guides.
After that fine bowl of porridge this morning the RMI team, led by Dawn and Denza Sherpa packed our not so heavy day bags and made a lovely two hour trek into the Thame valley to visit an all women’s nunnery which I believe is the only one of its kind in the entire area. We sat in on a stunning prayer ceremony while sitting mesmerized by the cadence and tone of the prayers, all read from a scripture. All of us with technology raised fine western children all asked each other how long we thought our kids would last sitting cross legged on the floor praying through a rhythmic chant while reading a bible. I think the average answer was around 30 seconds. The Buddhist nuns and monks will pray for three to six hours a day for 30 years. What a crazy different world we all exist in!
Once we finished with the monastery we had some tea then retraced our steps back to Namche for lunch and more shopping. I can’t get over how much the village has changed! So many new structures and lodges. I hardly recognized it walking through the gates yesterday at the bottom of the hill.
By 5 pm were practicing some knots and technical skills on the extreme angles of the lodge’s front steps. After everyone displayed ample confidence in arm wraps and figure Eights, dinner was on the table so we wrapped up our day sitting by the fire eating exactly what makes us happy.
Now in bed we are prepped and ready for a nice long hike to Phortse which holds a special place in my heart.
Find out why tomorrow.
Namaste from Hotel Camp De Base, Namche Bazaar.
Wish I could be there with you! It all sounds and looks wonderful.
Posted by: Catherine on 3/25/2022 at 4:02 pm
Glad your team is doing well and continue the great updates on your trip and comparisons to trips past. Thx and Best
Posted by: Jane on 3/25/2022 at 9:54 am
Posted by:
Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
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Posted by: dineh7gj on 7/17/2018 at 5:08 am
Drawing trend lines is one of the few easy techniques that really WORK. Prices respect a trend line, or break through it resulting in a massive move. Drawing good trend lines is the MOST REWARDING skill.
The problem is, as you may have already experienced, too many false breakouts. You see trend lines everywhere, however not all trend lines should be considered. You have to distinguish between STRONG and WEAK trend lines.
One good guideline is that a strong trend line should have AT LEAST THREE touching points. Trend lines with more than four touching points are MONSTER trend lines and you should be always prepared for the massive breakout!
This sophisticated software automatically draws only the strongest trend lines and recognizes the most reliable chart patterns formed by trend lines…
http://www.forextrendy.com?kdhfhs93874
Chart patterns such as “Triangles, Flags and Wedges” are price formations that will provide you with consistent profits.
Before the age of computing power, the professionals used to analyze every single chart to search for chart patterns. This kind of analysis was very time consuming, but it was worth it. Now it’s time to use powerful dedicated computers that will do the job for you:
http://www.forextrendy.com?kdhfhs93874
Posted by: dine on 7/16/2018 at 11:47 pm
Posted by: Robby Young, Sean Collon, Steve Gately
Categories: Guide News
Sean Collon: Rock climbing and mountaineering have a large number of common skills, techniques and physical requirements. Approaching rock climbs with heavy packs full of gear builds stamina, and the climbing itself requires total body strength; all of which contributes to success in the big mountains. When guiding, or on personal mountaineering trips, I rely heavily on the rope skills I have developed largely in the vertical world of rock climbing. But more than all of this, rock climbing, in and of itself, is fun. Like any type of climbing, it is physically and mentally demanding. It can be pure enjoyment, often scary and painful, but always tremendously rewarding.
Steve Gately: After a busy Rainier season, trips like this provide us with some welcomed vacation time, while also allowing us a great opportunity for continued training. With back-to-back trips to Aconcagua coming up this winter, keeping my skills sharp is important to me. One aspect that goes consistently overlooked is not only the mental capacity but also the situational awareness needed for such long expeditions. For me, rock climbing is a way to keep my assessment skills sharp. There is some inherent risk in rock climbing, similarly to anytime that we step out into the mountains. This requires you to be constantly assessing situations, risk, hazards, terrain etc. This level of awareness is invaluable. You can be as strong as the best climbers out there, but without that ability to constantly assess your surroundings and problem solve when needed, well, you won't last very long in the mountains. For me, as a guide, this is one of the most important contributions I can bring to my trips and rock climbing provides an excellent way to stay strong, keep my skills sharp, and have a ton of fun while doing it!
______
Robby Young is as talented on rock as he is on glaciers and skis. He is spending the winter ski patrolling and teaching several avalanche courses in Utah and planning on a ski trip to Iceland this spring before his Denali expedition. See more of Robby's photography at www.robbyyoungphotography.com.
Sean Collon is an RMI guide, originally from Michigan, spending this winter season in Utah ski instructing at Canyons Resort and training for the AMGA Rock and Ski Instructor Courses. He has climbed rock and alpine routes all around the Pacific Northwest and throughout the country, and guiding with Dave Hahn next summer on Mt. McKinley.
Steve Gately is heading to the southern hemisphere this winter to guide on Aconcagua. Returning to Park City, UT, he will be found skiing, ice climbing and working on another short film about backcountry skiing in Utah's Wasatch Range before heading north to Alaska next summer.
Great clip! I had the honor of attending a fundraiser last night (Golden,CO) for Jeff Lowe’s “Metanoia” movie. One of the items they were auctioning off was a 3 day climb at “The Creek” with Jim Donini! Jim was there and personally offered the trip. As you can imagine, it went for a nice high bid!!
Posted by: Lori Stewart on 12/18/2013 at 7:30 pm
Posted by: Jack Delaney, Roland Scott
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 10,781'
Tuesday, September 5, 2022 8:10 am PDT
SUMMIT!
RMI Guide Jack Delaney called in at 8:10 am PDT from the summit of Mt. Baker. The team climbed via the Easton Glacier route. The early morning temperatures were cool, but great for climbing! The team is on the descent and will be back at their high camp at about 6,800' where they will spend the night, and plan to descend early tomorrow.
Congratulations Team!
Monday, September 5, 2022 5:06 pm PDT
Greetings from the team with the two tallest guides at RMI!
We hiked into Sandy Camp on the flanks of Mt. Baker yesterday. The hike in was slightly overcast but great temperatures for hiking with a heavy pack. Once we got to camp we quickly set up tents as the overcast clouds had become dark and threatening. Lucky for us the rain started as soon as we moved into our tents. The rest of the night was spent hunkered down inside our nice dry tents except for a brief lull in the rain that we took advantage of to boil water for dinner. This morning we awoke to dry weather with partly sunny sky's. Today we'll practice all the mountaineering skills necessary for our ascent of Baker starting in the wee hours of the night this evening!
RMI Guides Jack, Roland & Team
That is Awesome Dustin!!! Best of luck to you and the team!!!
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 11/3/2021 at 4:05 am
Nice hike to the summit of Rucu Puchincha. Keep up the good work.
Posted by: Joel Cline on 11/2/2021 at 8:16 am
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