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Everest Base Camp Trek & Lobuche: Knoff, Smith & Team Summit Lobuche

April 3, 2022

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Hannah Smith

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek and Lobuche

Elevation: 20,075'

We are happy to announce that the Lobuche climbing team successfully reached the summit this morning at roughly 10 am. It was a much more demanding climb than originally thought but everyone pushed hard and gave it all they had resulting in 100% of the team making it to the summit. Because the day was so challenging, we got down much later than expected so we are currently still at High Camp. We will descend in the morning to hot showers, wi fi and beer! All of the guides are proud of today's efforts. Stay tuned for a more detailed description later.

RMI Guide Hannah Smith

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

CONGRATULATIONS!! Safe descending and travels!

Posted by: Molly Knoff Caughn on 4/3/2022 at 3:10 pm

That is Very Cool!! Congratulations!!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 4/3/2022 at 11:20 am

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams Summit with 100%

August 29, 2022

Posted by: Mike Walter, Abby Westling, Leif Bergstrom, Josh Geiser, Nicole De Petris, Nick Sinapius

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Mike Walter & Abby Westling led the Four Day Climb August 26 - 29 to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning with all climbers in both groups. Mike reported a beautiful day on the mountain as the teams were approaching the crater rim around 7:10 am. Climbers will spend time in the summit crater before starting their descent, dropping 4,500' back to Camp Muir. After a quick stop they will continue the remaining 4,500' to Paradise. Once back at Rainier BaseCamp later this afternoon the program will conclude with a small celebration for the teams.

Nice work today everyone!

Mt. Everest Expedition: Climbing through the Khumbu Ice Fall to Camps 1 and 2

April 25, 2011

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

Yesterday we got back to Base Camp from a climb up the Khumbu Ice fall to Camps 1 and 2. The Khumbu was everything it was made out to be. We had previously completed a series of climbs into the ice fall that had provided us with valuable experience. But tackling the ice fall in its entirety was a new ballgame. We awoke at 4 am to eat breakfast and to prepare so that we could have a prompt 5 am start. We start this early for a variety of reasons, one of which is to have cold temperatures and a frozen solid ice fall. One of the biggest risks in the ice fall is an avalanche. An avalanche in the ice fall would not consist of soft snow, but solid ice (as hard and as brittle as stone). And since the ice fall is a constantly moving, dynamic glacier that is tumbling (in slow motion) down a 2500 foot cliff, this risk is ever present. So, the objective is to climb a solid ice "waterfall" - all of which starts at an altitude of 17500 feet. The actual climbing is a non stop series of challenges - straight up 30 foot cliffs of ice (assisted by vertical ladders), 20 foot vertical descents in which you repel down "batman" style, 30 to 40 foot horizontal crevasses (which are up to hundreds of feet deep) in which you have to negotiate five eight-foot ladders roped together, etc.. If it wasn't so dangerous and you weren't scared out of your mind, it would actually be fun. The idea is to safely and quickly move through the ice fall in a business like manner, always clipping into safety ropes, and to move quickly. There are only two places that are safe enough for a rest stop. Every so often I would steal a glance at the massive glaciers overhanging us and then just keep moving. Camp 1 sits at the top of the ice fall and at the end of the Western Cwm (at approx. 20,000 feet). We spent three nights at Camp I, and we were treated harshly at times by high winds, which I estimated (using the "guess method") of up to 70 mph. The winds were strong enough to break a tent pole in our tent (masterly repaired by Dave and Linden the next day). The winds slashed at the sides of the tent, creating a massive roar, which kept me up most of the night. There were times that night that I wondered what I was doing in Nepal at 20,000 feet in a tent in a wind storm. I am quite sure that Hawaii would have been a more pleasant place to be! The hike up to Camp 2 is quite beautiful and gentle (in comparison to the hike up to Camp 1). It is literally a hike up the middle of glacier. The most similar climb that I can compare it to is the climb on Denali up to Camp 2 (at 11,000 feet). The climb is a gently ascending 3 to 4 hour climb through a beautiful valley surrounded by some of the tallest mountains in the world - almost vertical walls on all sides and at the end of the valley the Lhotse face and Mt. Everest - what a spectacular day! To me this is what climbing is all about - the beauty was endless. Then, a trip back down from Camp 1 to Basecamp yesterday morning. As we approached base camp we saw a HUGE banner hung across the entrance to our camp that said "HAPPY BIRTHDAY BILL MCGAHAN - a day late!" Then, last night we had a birthday dinner that insisted of T-Bone steaks, chicken, French fries, cole slaw, all followed by a birthday cake (and included candles and a "B-" singing effort - ha!). The celebration was very appreciated and will be remembered forever. So, for now our mission is to rest for three days. We will be heading back up to Camp 2 and hopefully Camp 3 by the end of the month, and the idea is to continue to acclimatize and to get stronger for each of the next series climbs as we go higher and higher. Thank you all for following our blog and for your kind postings. A great portion of this challenge is mental - we are all going to have days that we physically feel bad, or are homesick, or just want to know what is going on in the NBA playoffs - and getting kind words of encouragement means a tremendous amount to keep us going. So, thanks again

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Bill - Happy Birthday! Nice way to spend it. Would love to see you in Saratoga again this year (if the climbing schedule permits of course).

Dave

Posted by: David Schmidt on 4/29/2011 at 12:05 pm

HAPPY LATE BIRTHDAY!!! how fun! just can hardly wait to read the posts every day! i am so grateful that all is going well. hugs and prayers and best thoughts coming your way! lynn crow

Posted by: Lynn Crow on 4/26/2011 at 9:19 am

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Aconcagua Expedition: Team Returns to Mendoza

December 31, 2011

Posted by: Jake Beren

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Feliz Ano Nuevo from Mendoza! Our last dispatch was from Aconcagua's base camp and we have certainly covered many miles since then. A big day of walking from Plaza Argentina to Pampa de Llenas put us in camp just in time for a big Asado prepared by our herreros, the mule drivers who transport our gear off the mountain. An early morning walk brought us to Penitentes where we showered and had lunch before heading to Mendoza. Now back in civilization our celebratory meal felt great and is a far cry from mountain food and the thin air of the Andes, but the significance of the last few weeks that put us on top of the highest mountain outside of the Himalaya is still sinking in. Everyone has done a great job and I am thankful for the time spend with a great team. Nice work all! RMI Guide Jake Beren

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams Turn due to High Winds

August 27, 2022

Posted by: Dustin Wittmier, Matias Francis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 12,000'

The Four Day Climb Teams led by RMI Guides Dustin Wittmier and Matias Francis turned at 12,000' on Mt. Rainier today. Dustin reported high winds of 60 mph on the upper mountain that forced the teams to turn before reaching the summit. The team climbed safely back to Camp Muir and plan to depart at 11 am today. They will reach Paradise in the early afternoon.

Congratulations team!

Mexico Volcanoes: Team Summits Ixtaccihuatl

March 2, 2022

Posted by: Dominic Cifelli

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico

Elevation: 17,340'

Today was the day, the team successfully reached the summit of the eighth tallest mountains in North America, Ixtaccihuatl. We woke up dark and early at 1230 AM for our alpine start, scarfed our oatmeal, chugged our coffee and we were off.

The route from high camp starts off with most of the elevation gain and a steep scree field to boot. Taking two steps up and one step back, the team trudged up “the knees” of Ixta to gain one of its magnificent ridges. Though the skies were clear, the wind was out with a vengeance. A cutting, constant 30 mph wind greeted us at the top of the ridge and decided to join us for the rest of the climb. With most of our layers on our person and buffs covering all but our eyes, we leaned into the wind and traversed until we dropped down into the ever-receding Ayaloco Glacier. Down and up the half pipe of a glacier, we gained the final ridge and pushed on to the summit. The team moved so well that we beat the sun to the top, but we were able to find a wind break and watch a gorgeous sunrise at the summit. Congrats to the team!

Now we’re off to well-deserved showers and beds in Puebla.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to all! I’m very impressed and enjoy watching the adventure.

Posted by: Bobby Hall on 3/2/2022 at 3:37 pm

Awesome. On to Orizaba! Enjoy Puebla first, though. Watch out for the tacos arabes, Dom :-)

Posted by: Patrick Johnson on 3/2/2022 at 3:15 pm

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Mt. Everest Expedition: Team on the Summit!

May 22, 2013

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Mark Tucker, Seth Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 29,035

Update:10:51 pm PT The team has safely reached the South Col. Everyone is doing well. They are going to take a quick break before continuing down to Camp 2 (Advanced Base Camp). Mark Tucker Update: 6:46 pm PT Mark Tucker reports from Everest Base Camp that RMI Guides Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall and their Sherpa team, Tshering and Kaji have reached the summit of Mt. Everest! This marks Dave's 15th summit of Mt. Everest and the third time for Seth to have reached the summit. Tshering and Kaji have both made their sixth successful summit of Mt.Everest. The team reported a beautiful day with a cold wind. They will spend about 30 minutes on top before starting their descent. Congratulations to all!

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations, felicidades! 15 th summit!!! Great. Regards from Costa Rica

Posted by: Silke on 5/23/2013 at 7:51 pm

Huge Congratulations! You guys were patient, waited until the right time, even when all others were making their summit bids, and you always seem to be successful. Great climbing. Bill Bussey

Posted by: Bill Bussey on 5/23/2013 at 7:20 am

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Mt. Rainier: Ski Touring in December

December 22, 2011

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,060'

The week of winter solstice was filled with sun, great attitudes and a wonderful time spent in the mountains. We started our Intro to Ski Mountaineering Seminar with a day of basic touring skills, equipment function and packing along with harness, rope, and avalanche transceiver drills. This was a great start to the trip with two young boys from New York and Ohio looking for adventure and building their mountaineering and ski touring skill sets. The mountain days were full of exciting new learning. Our first day on the hill we parked at Paradise and ski toured toward Edith Creek drainage and found a nice, secluded and well snow-covered area to camp for the evening, allowing us to make a run down a great slope in the basin. We covered kick turns and transitions along with many other key maneuvers while traveling the mountains with skis on, whether it be up or on the way down. Our camp experience was good practical winter camping… Cold…ish but clear and star filled nights. The second day we awoke to fog filled air. We leisurely packed camp and dropped some extra overnight equipment in the van. Around 10 a.m. we stepped in to our skis and started our ski to Camp Muir, 4,500' above at 10,000'. On our way to Muir we encountered firm crust and rime ice requiring us to make use of the crampons a few times and used them a good amount on a section of the upper snow field when our skins would just not grip. In late afternoon we arrived at Muir feeling the days work. We brewed up some hot drinks, had dinner and settled in the bunkhouse for the evening. The third day we covered loads of skills in the region of Muir including ice axes, ropes, cramponing, rope rescue and then followed with many of my other teaching tangents. We had the best weather we could ask for on the true winter solstice day in the Northwest. In our evening lecture we went over frostbite, hypothermia, and altitude illnesses. Today, our fourth day, we made our decent from Muir . We traveled a section with crampons due to poor snow conditions but still managed to get 3,200' of descent. In my eyes, any skiing is good skiing. We closed the week's journey back in Ashford over a refreshing beverage and a burger. The week of ski touring has been one to remember and I look forward to teaching more ski-based mountaineering trips on one of the lower 48's best and biggest ski hills, Mount Rainier. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

Everest Base Camp Trek & Lobuche: Knoff, Smith & Team Arrive at Everest Base Camp

March 31, 2022

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Hannah Smith

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek and Lobuche

Elevation: 17,575'

Today was not unlike most of our others the last week. Breakfast, packing then walking. Except today we would finally reach Everest Base Camp. It is almost agonizing to see the bright yellow tents in the distance and feel like they are not getting any closer. But three hours of steady walking landed the entire team safely at the Base Camp rock. We were greeted upon arrival by our gracious Base Camp Staff with cookies and hot tea. The views of the Khumbu icefall, Mt. Everest and Nupste were incredible the entire morning. After our entrance greeting, we hiked the final 30 minutes to our camp site and enjoyed hot showers, a great dinner and interesting sounds of far off avalanches.

Everyone is now tucked into their cozy tents ready for a good nights rest. We will report tomorrow after our hike back to Lobuche.

RMI Guide Hannah Smith

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Hannah and Adam!!!
This is So Cool!!!
Farmer Dave

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 4/2/2022 at 11:12 am

Congrats on hike well done! Glad weather is your blessing. Best returning.

Posted by: Jane on 3/31/2022 at 12:05 pm

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Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Top Out!

December 16, 2014

Posted by: Dave Hahn

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif

We are feeling quite lucky today. It was extremely good weather for going to the top of Mount Vinson. And there was no mystery about it. From the time we got out of the tents at high camp this morning, it was obvious that conditions were stable and that we'd be able to simply concentrate on climbing well. The team did exactly that. We left camp at 9:35 and were on the top at 3:45 PM. In fact, we passed most of the teams that had left before us, although that certainly wasn't our goal. We just wanted to move efficiently in this cold environment. On a day when about 30 climbers were going for the top, it was also quite nice for us to have the summit to ourselves for a time. Gary and Bob had the added significance to the occasion in that Vinson was the seventh continental summit for each. We could see up and down nearly the full length of the 200-mile Ellsworth chain, but our eyes were drawn continually to the sharp and lofty summits just north of Vinson, to Shinn, Tyree, Gardner and Epperly. We left the top at 4:20 and arrived back at high camp by 7 PM. Dinner was a comfortable session in our POSH tent and then we headed to bed early. Tomorrow will be another big day as we descend to Basecamp. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to the whole team! Amazing work; may you be blessed with beautiful weather! Home soon!!!!!!!!! Lots of love, Mom

Posted by: Betty Sullivan on 12/17/2014 at 7:22 am

Hey - yes you did it!!!!
Congratulations to everybody!
Wish you a save way back under the antarctic sun!
See you soon, Hans!
Ute ;-)

Posted by: Ute Novak on 12/17/2014 at 7:11 am

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Most Popular Entries

Everest Base Camp Trek & Lobuche: Knoff, Smith & Team Summit Lobuche

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams Summit with 100%

Mt. Everest Expedition: Climbing through the Khumbu Ice Fall to Camps 1 and 2

Aconcagua Expedition: Team Returns to Mendoza

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams Turn due to High Winds

Mexico Volcanoes: Team Summits Ixtaccihuatl

Mt. Everest Expedition: Team on the Summit!

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Mt. Rainier: Ski Touring in December

Everest Base Camp Trek & Lobuche: Knoff, Smith & Team Arrive at Everest Base Camp

Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Top Out!

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