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Mt. McKinley: Jones and Team Acclimating in the Arctic

Tuesday, June 10, 2014 - 4:10 PT The first real weather day for us this trip. The overnight temps dropped to -7F not including the wind chill. Our early morning plans to move a few items for caching up to our high camp were foiled by the high winds -- 35mph winds at 17,200' and negative temps! Not to mention the squalls of crystalline snow flakes flying in all directions. The sun peered out from the flanks of the west rib shedding enough solar rays to warm the tents. With the brim of a ball cap we scraped the tent walls free of the frost of our night's breathing. Lighting the stoves in our kitchen tent soon brought the smells of coffee, bacon, and cream cheese with bagels. This motivated our spirits to make our camp a fortress. We spent two hours building large block walls and remodeling the bathroom -- which, I might add, could be the best one currently on the mountain featuring a snow free enclosed taj ma-stall! Not to mention the fact that RMI Guide Bryan Hendrick took on a project to expand and improve an igloo just outside camp...soon we'll have a monstrous underground lair for additional resting and wind protection. Sick! We are now taking a rest, drying out and warming up after a great session. The wall building serves as great acclimatization through light exercise, team building, and making camp even better for this time we're spending in this harsh Arctic environment. We will keep our hopes high for lighter winds, less snow, and a bit of warmth. RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, Bryan Hendrick, and the crew!
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Daveed,  You guys are all crazy (amy) however Bud wants to be there, he thinks it is hot here. Hope you are having fun. I can’t send you too much warm weather or I will freeze (amy). See you soon.

Posted by: BUD/AMY on 6/12/2014 at 6:11 pm

Dave, We’re waiting for summer to start, but our chilly 62 degrees must sound balmy to you.  Think summer thoughts.  Stay safe…

Patty

Posted by: Patty on 6/12/2014 at 5:37 am


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team - Down We Go

We awoke today to subzero temperatures at 17k camp and are now enjoying the thick air at 11k camp. After a quick breakfast, the team packed their belongings and headed downward. Despite some fatigue from our successful summit bid yesterday, the team safely negotiated the descent to 14k camp. There, the team was met by another RMI team. Jake Beren and team topped off our bottles with water and our stomachs with warm quesadillas. After this hour long break we headed down to 11k camp. While the air was thick and warm, Denali was quick to remind us that we aren't out of the woods yet. While snow fell and wind blew around us we consolidated our left over meats and cheeses for a quesadilla smorgasbord. We enjoyed these tasty morsels until we were full, then ate some more. Then we had dessert. We are now snuggled into our sleeping bags, staying warm and hoping to fly out tomorrow. While we are all set to walk to the runway, the weather is not ripe for a speedy flight to Talkeetna. We are still at the mercy of the big one, Denali. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

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Congratulations to JB and the whole team for a strong and safe climb!  Your friends here at AMC looking forward to hearing all about.

Posted by: Rick on 6/19/2012 at 9:52 am

Hope you had a long and profound sleep for a significant recuperation. It should help for the descent. Wishing you a smooth return. Hélène

Posted by: Hélène Larocque-Nolin on 6/17/2012 at 7:45 pm


Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Sight Seeing in Quito

Our Ecuador's Volcanoes team has arrived here in Quito after a fair bit of travel, but healthy and with all of our gear! Always a good start to a trip. Today we took to the streets, touring Quito's revitalized Old Town and taking in the sights from La Panela, the hilltop site of the Virgin of Quito where we could clearly see the city snaking to the North and South, the ancient churches and plazas quite visible from our vantage point. Then it was off to lunch and a stop at the "Mitada del Mundo," the "center of the earth." Here the equator is marked by more than just a line and we were able to double check it's accuracy with a few tests, putting to rest the long debate about which way the toilet flushes in which hemisphere (can you remember without testing?). All in all a great first day and the afternoon thunderstorms even held off for us! RMI Guides Jake Beren & Zeb Blais
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Kilimanjaro: Martin & Team See Thousands of Animals at Ngorongoro Crater

Hello from the Ngorongoro Wildife Lodge, We were driving down into the crater at 7:00 am this morning for a full day of game viewing. We saw at least 10,000 animals today, mostly zebra, wildebeest, cape buffalo, and gazelles. But the two black rhinos (mother and baby) is what stole the prize. We first saw them way out in the distance, but they continued to travel in our general direction and so we waited patiently. They ended up crossing right in front of us, about 100 yards away, and we were the only group to see them. Timing is everything when it comes to safari. We also saw lions, a cheetah, hyenas, a serval cat, and elephants. It was quite a day. After spending the majority of the day in the crater, including a picnic lunch, we headed back up the road to the crater rim. At the top, we stopped at a traditional Masai village to learn about their culture and how they live off the land. It was a lot of fun getting a tour of their huts and watching them perform their traditional dances. It was then time to head back to our lodge to grab a drink and head out on the patio to watch the sun go down over Ngorongoro Crater. Tomorrow, we travel to Tarangire National Park where we plan to spend another full day game viewing. The only animal left on our "Big Five List" is the leopard. We have heard that our chances are good that we can see one in Tarangire. - The Kili Team
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Vinson: Patience, Day 2

We really shouldn't complain, as it could be much worse. Some people have been waiting 11 days already at Union Glacier to fly back to Punta. We've only been stuck for two days. But, for an active group of people, two days lying in the tent in a fog as thick as pea soup...well, that can be like an eternity. We're hanging in there, though. We got a brief respite this morning when the clouds lifted enough to expose the checkerboard of icefall immediately outside of camp, and a brief glimpse down to the Nimmitz Glacier. But, then it all socked in again, encasing us in a deep, thick fog and taking visibility down to about 50 meters. So, we read. We sleep. We listen to music. We eat. We repeat. Not much else can be done. Patience, and a good sense of humor - two essential elements for a good team in the mountains.
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Summit Day On Pico de Orizaba!

Climbing up through the rocks and gullies that make up the base of our route, the team did very well getting to the upper glacier on Orizba. As the sun started to rise we climbed up the glacier, treated to cold and very clear views in all directions. We had a great mountain shadow of Orizaba over Tlachichuca and higher up were able to see La Malinche, Ixta and the smoke of Popocapetl. Great day to go climbing. Everyone did well and really pushed themselves, earning a spot on top of Mexico's highest mountain. Congrats team, time to celebrate in town. Thanks Paul, Greg and John for a great trip!
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Mt. Shuksan: Fisher Chimneys Team Reaches Summit

On Friday in the North Cascades, RMI Guide Steve Gately and team reached the summit of Mt. Shuksan via the Fisher Chimneys. The team spent their final night in the mountains at high camp near Winnie's Slide before descending to the trailhead.

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Aconcagua: Beren and Team Rest Day at Guanacos (Camp 2)

Holá from 18,000 ft above the sea! We spent a windy evening up here last night, but so far camp is holding tight. With any luck this weather pattern will relax by tomorrow and we will be in solid shape to move higher! Today we are going to review some crampon and ice axe techniques before lunch and then take a little stroll post meal. Then more resting to be prepared for a few big days coming up. The team is doing great, and now we just need a few good weather days to make our move to Camp 3 and then shoot for the top. For now we wait for the wind to relax and head up when the mountain lets us. RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team
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Just got 15 inches of snow over night. Temps in the low teens. Probably much better where you are.

Scenery looks beautiful up top there. Hope the weather cooperates for a good summit attempt.

Hike well and be safe.

Posted by: Bill Gately on 1/3/2014 at 10:10 am

George,

Glad to hear that all is well.  We head to Asheville tomorrow to eat dinner with Barry and the family.  After dinner, we are off to a Charlotte hotel to get a little sleep before an early flight to Pasadena.  With a little luck, we will have a double celebration on Monday—Your triumphal summit and a BCS trophy with Auburn’s name on it.  War Eagle! 

Posted by: Carolyn Crandell on 1/2/2014 at 11:26 pm


Ecuador Volcanoes: Cayambe Summit!

Hello everybody back home. This is Casey Grom checking in from the Ecuador expedition. Just wanted to let everyone know that we are standing on the summit of Cayambe right now! Beautiful day, a little chilly though. There's a slight breeze. We had a total of 10 climbers reach the summit... One climber and one guide turned around at about 18,200', just short of the summit. It's been a really long day. The route is in good shape, but it's just a really long route. Took us six and 1/2 hours for the first group and about 7 hours and 45 minutes for the second wave of climbers to reach the summit. Everyone's been doing great, pushing real hard and are pretty tired. We're going to take a few minutes get something to eat and drink and start making our way back down.......... We look forward to talking with you soon. RMI Guide Casey Grom


Casey Grom calls from the Cayambe summit!

On The Map

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Mt. Rainier: Kautz Seminar Makes Summit Attempt

The Kautz Seminar June 23 - 28 made their summit attempt today, they climbed the crux of the route and reached 14,000' between Point Success and the true summit before weather turned them around. RMI Guide Tyler Jones reported a thick cloud cap with snow and cold temperatures. The team will descend to camp and continue their training on the mountain for the next few days.
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