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We're on Ixta! Well we're actually at the Altzimoni Hut but we did get up to 14,600' on Ixta today. That means we set new altitude records for the whole team. That's always cool.
The day started with an 8 am pick up from La Malinche. Our fantastic driver, Rogelio, took us to the best breakfast in Mexico at the Hotel Mission Tlaxcala. Very nice.
Then we hit the market in the town of Amecameca for some last minute food and water before driving to the Altzimoni Hut. After dropping our gear we set out for a hike. We took the same route that we will follow tomorrow and I dropped some water at our high point. We'll pick that up on the way through on our way to high camp and I'll check in again from there.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
On The Map
12:01 a.m. (Nepalese Time) - Team leaving the South Col
UP UP AND AWAY !
These guys are my supermen. It's now down to a handful of hours. With all that has happened over the course of this expedition, success shows itself in many ways.
Summit or not these guys rock.
In a couple of days, when Dave, Linden, Kaji, Dawa, Yubarj and Tsering are back down here at Base Camp feeling good and all equipment removed from the mountain, that will be a huge success.
As they leave the South Col they start on kind of rolling terrain with some good-sized crevasses. In the past the fixed line didn't normally start till you got the first steep part, the Triangular face. So some kind of markings like the sticks with flags were great but if it was hard ice everywhere you had a difficult time placing them. GPS is sure an improvement but electronics can have some problems in the cold and one more thing to mess with. The last few years the teams have made it a point to put a rope line to follow in this area for low-to-no visibility occasions.
As they start up it's a constant mix of adjusting straps, pace, oxygen masks, gloves, ice axes and more.
While you hope you hit the clothing options right, it may be necessary to pull over and make the quick change so as to not sweat bullets or need to move to quick to stay warm. And what about the other teams? Are they in front, going at a pace that does not work for you? Can you unclip from the rope and make a pass safely? Is your oxygen mask clogging up and not allowing freedom of ambient air movement? Is the wind now picking up and I need to put on some form of eye protection to keep from getting the dreaded frozen cornea? Now that I have put on the eye protection is it all fogged up? Better to see the terrain and risk the freezing? How are my toes, what is going on with my hands? Head to toe self survey, constantly observing my every move. What are my thoughts, am I keeping focused? How is my partner? Where is my partner? Are my Sherpa OK? Do they have my next bottle of oxygen? My oxygen!
Do I still have enough to get me to the Balcony (27,500 ft), the next location that I will expect to hear radio communication from the team? And first semi-flat place for a short break and a oxygen bottle change.
That should take between three and four hours from now. So hang in there, I promise as soon as I hear, you will too.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
On The Map
The streets of Kathmandu were hardly waking up when we reached the airport this morning, unloading our duffel bags outside of the the domestic terminal in the pre dawn darkness. By the time the morning sun found us, burning as an orange orb just above the eastern horizon, we were loading into a Twin Otter turbo prop plane, a STOL airplane - Short Take Off Landing - capable of landing at Lukla's narrow strip.
Besides some turbulence as we turned into the Khumbu Valley the flight was uneventful, a fact duly noted and much appreciated when flying a tiny airplane into a mountain airstrip like Lukla. Perched at a 10 degree angle and hardly more than several hundred meters long, the Lukla Airstrip is guaranteed to raise your heart rate - the plane touches down bearing full speed toward the hillside at the end of the strip, the brakes are slammed on and the engines roar as the air brakes fire, the plane decelerating from airborne to parked within a matter of seconds. It's exciting to say the least.
By 8:00 am this morning we were all safely in Lukla and we hit the trail shortly thereafter. To say that Kathmandu to Lukla is a change of pace is an understatement. Within minutes we looked at each other remarking at the novelty of hearing birds in the background, not taxi horns. The trail meanders down from Lukla among several villages, eventually reaching the base of the valley where we joined the banks of the Dudh Kosi - the Milky River named for the glacial sediment flowing in it. The trail is really the highway of the Khumbu, a boulevard of hand laid stone a few meters wide, that links the different villages. Passing by front yards bordered by small gates, past teahouses and chortens - Buddhist stupas and flapping prayer flags. Although the distance we covered today was relatively short compared to the days ahead, it felt full by the time we reached Phakding from all of the daily going ons of the Khumbu we saw.
We reached the teahouse as the clouds built in the sky. Before we could do anything we threw in our backs to help the teahouse owners raise their Chotra - a pine truck a dozen meters high that flies vertical prayer flags and serves as the entrance to most houses and compounds in the Khumbu. With a dozen locals, a few ladders and long poles, we managed to raise the Chotra to a vertical position and plant it in the ground. It was an entertaining way to be welcomed into the Khumbu.
We've spent the afternoon at the teahouse, watching periods of afternoon rain blow in. Tomorrow we climb to Namche Bazaar, the major trade center and biggest town of the region where we will spend a few days acclimatizing and exploring the surrounding area.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
On The Map
The team had an early start to the day, leaving Mexico City and driving to our acclimatization hike.
We began our ascent at 10,000 feet, weaving our way through the forest until we were greeted with a view of the snowy North face of La Malinche. Despite the snow up high, it was a beautiful and warm day to stretch our legs.
Our team had a successful summit of La Malinche (14,640 feet) that was made perfect by views of Ixta, Orizaba and even an erupting Popo.
Spirits are high as we prepare for Ixta in the coming days!
-RMI Guide Abby Westling and Team
Looks amazing
Posted by: Nancy Elser on 1/16/2023 at 9:08 am
Hello again.
After a rest day yesterday at Ama Dablam Base Camp, where we practiced some of the rope techniques we'll implement on our ascent, today we're in a holding pattern for the weather.
Our camps are stocked thanks to the help of our Sherpa, and we're ready to go when the time is right. In the meantime, we continue to execute expedition life; patience at it's best.
RMI Guide ElÃas de Andres Martos
Well you all look healthy and happy!
Holding pattern? You must have an airline pilot in the group
Posted by: lisa maiser on 11/13/2018 at 8:14 am
Posted by: Peter Whittaker, Seth Waterfall
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro
Jambo from Lake Manyara! We've just finished a great afternoon game drive. The elephants were out in full force today. We got extremely close to several of the amazon creatures. Another highlight of the day was seeing several baboon and monkey babies. All in all it was a great first day on safari.
RMI Guides Peter Whittaker and Seth Waterfall
Now you can all relax and really enjoy yourself! Must be beautiful actually seeing the animals in their natural habitat. Sam take lots of pictures of those giraffes.
Posted by: Terrianne Riga on 10/15/2013 at 1:05 pm
Posted by: Seth Waterfall
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
We're all checked in at the Hotel Colonial in Puebla. If you're counting, that's less than 10 hours after standing on the summit of Ixta!
We got up this morning at 2:30AM under clear skies and no moon. The view of the city lights from Amecameca to Mexico City was really cool. The guys made quick work of getting ready and we started just after 3:30. The talus field leading up to the Ayaloco glacier was our first challenge but my guiding partner Alejandro stepped up with local knowledge on the ever-shifting route. He plotted the course to the toe of the glacier without issue. After a quick transition to crampons we dispatched with the climb up the Ayaloco. Once we crested the ridge the wind whipped up and it was parka time for most of us. Our only hold up of the day came after we had put the crampons back in the pack to walk the 'Arista del Sol'. We hit an unexpected section of ice a few hundred feet below the summit plateau and had to transition back to the spikes. Other than that it was smooth sailing for us right to the summit. The wind calmed to a light breeze for our pictures up top and we found a sheltered spot for a nice long break just below the summit.
The way down to high camp was completed in three stretches and to my surprise there was very little grumbling as we down climbed the talus. Kudos boys. Having made such good time on the climb we were able to enjoy some extra breaks on the walk down from high camp. The icing on the cake was when we were met by our super-driver, Rogelio, with tortas, chips, sodas and cervesas back at the trail head.
He tortas were good but they're just the tip of the iceberg for we are in Puebla, home of many delicious foods. The team is waiting for me, it's dinner time!
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
Looks like a great time was had by all….awesome pics - especially the smiles on the faces post the climb!
Posted by: Caskie on 1/17/2013 at 10:12 am
This morning we awoke to 6 to 8 inches of light fresh powder. We didn't allow this to stop our momentum. With calm winds and overcast skies we decided on a carry for today. We cached a portion of our gear at 10,000 feet with the intention of lightening our load when we move to 11,000 feet.
We are now back at our camp at 7,800 feet hiding from the sun, rehydrating and relaxing. For the past two days we have seen many climbing teams from all over the world. This trip of a lifetime is well underway and the team is climbing strong. As the winds pick up here at Camp 1, we are headed out to tighten up our camp and build some wind walls. Cheers for the team.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
On The Map
Thunderstorms rolled into the Baksan Valley last night as we ate dinner, temporarily cutting the power, but again the morning broke clear, with a few scattered clouds dispersed across the sky. We packed up our bags and left our hotel, climbing onto the first tram of the morning with all of our gear for the mountain. Two tram rides and another rickety single seat chairlift later we reached the toe of the glacier.
Perched along a fin of rock jutting uphill into the glacier sits the Garabashi Huts, also known as the Barrel Huts. Consisting of several massive fuel barrels retrofitted into bunk rooms and painted in the colors of the Russian flag, the collection is a bit odd looking compared to the alpine huts most of us are used to. But when the winds start to blow nothing could be more inviting up here.
After setting in we headed out for a small acclimatization hike, climbing up the glacier a ways, getting ourselves back in the habit of walking on snow and giving our bodies good exposure to still higher elevations. Above us Elbrus' twin summits danced in and out of the clouds whirling around them.
Returning to the huts for lunch, we watched the clouds descend down the mountain, growing ever darker and occasionally spitting rain on us as the afternoon progressed. But by early evening they once again dispersed and the skies have cleared, giving us gorgeous views across the Caucasus into Georgia, the peaks illuminated in evening light.
Tomorrow we will head out on a more substantial acclimatization hike before returning to rest at the Barrels. We will check in tomorrow night.
Sunday, July 2, 2023
While it hasn’t been unlike Denali to act up at inopportune times. Today was a low blow. We descended from High Camp today under mostly clear skies and on top of tired legs. We were awarded new views from the West Buttress that were previously shrouded and the team descended fast and well.
At 14,000' Camp we took a good break and then kept the train going. Clouds were billowing, wind was picking up, and snow was falling as we passed Windy Corner, which once again held true to its name. A storm was coming. We’re in that storm right now, hoping for it to abate and to get off the mountain we’ve called home for the past 19 days.
We’re hopeful, but not too optimistic we’ll be able to walk to the airstrip tomorrow.
Wish us luck.
RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli
Wishing you luck with the weather and praying you’ll be walking to the airstrip tomorrow!!! You are a brave and amazing team. I can’t wait to read tomorrow’s post! Love you, Alex!!!
Posted by: Kim on 7/3/2023 at 8:36 pm
I salute each and every one of you for your patience and determination on this climb that has been full of challenging weather. Stay safe. You’re in the home stretch!
Posted by: Doreen on 7/3/2023 at 2:07 pm
Congratulations Team El Futbol!
Gorgeous photos!
Dave..the SVA letter came.. all set!
Adios Amigos!
Posted by: Laura on 1/15/2013 at 6:49 am
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