Hello everybody, this is Peter checking in with First Ascent/RMI ski team here at Vinson basecamp. And we just finished a fantastic day of skiing. We transitioned yesterday from the climb into skiing today and we went out and skied some shoulders and glacial areas right on the side of the runway here at Vinson base. And in the morning had a nice session and kinda got our ski legs under us and testing the snow and the slopes. This afternoon we went over, down valley a couple miles and off to some shoulders and planks, to the south and the snow was unbelievable. Two – three inches of some of the most beautiful, most sparkling snow that I've ever seen and we had just a great afternoon/ evening. We got back to camp at about 9 PM. Once again, Jake’s going to try and push out some images to show you what I'm talking about, but it was surreal and just an amazing ski day today, a beautiful snow in the most beautiful place in the world. And almost spiritual really, really, nice and so we're all stoked. We're back in camp and finishing dinner and then gonna hit the rack. Tomorrow will be one more day of skiing here and then we've got the maps out and we are plotting to find a piece between here and Union Glacier and we'll take the twin otter probably day after tomorrow to get up in the air and look around for just the perfect mountain that is unclimbed and unskied. So that's our plan. All is well here. Everyone’s healthy, happy, and really stoked about the turns we got today. We will check in with you tomorrow. And everybody have a good evening and we'll talk soon.
Dobre Veycher,
The morning again broke perfectly clear, only a faint trace of wind and blowing snow visible on the summit of Elbrus. After a leisurely breakfast we decided a little adventure and relaxation was in order so we headed back down to the top of the tram where we hopped a ride back down to Azau. Taking a couple of hours at lower altitude we enjoyed a quick shower, the chance to shoot a quick email home, and a fantastic order of french fries. It was a spontaneous little side trip and a welcome treat before the climb.
Returning to the mountain we went on a short hike to stretch our legs and then spent the rest of the afternoon preparing our gear for the morning and resting. Tomorrow we will wake up early for our summit bid, planning on returning to the Barrels by midafternoon.
The weather remains unchanged and the group is feeling strong and excited for our climb tomorrow. We will check in after the climb and let you know how it goes.
Once again I write from our comfortable camp in Genet Basin. There is not very much new to report. It is mostly sunny and calm down here. The story is different up above, where a large lenticular cloud had encapsulated the upper mountain. Our friends at High Camp have reinforced their snow walls and are hunkered in their tents. We are all hopeful for the decreased winds that are forecast for Friday afternoon. In the mountains, you are at the whim of the weather, and it is a fool's journey to act otherwise. Hopefully our patience will pay off soon with an opportunity to move higher. Until then, we're in chill mode. Reading, music, conversations, and crosswords are on the itinerary. A big breakfast scramble with plenty of coffee was a highlight this morning. It's important to savor the little things as we wait for our chance for further climbing forays.
Well, after three days of hard work on the approach to our climb, we are finally taking some deserved time off. This is the first of our "rest days" which we are using to relax, refuel, and acclimatize. The team is loving it.
We started the morning with some sleeping in and a leisurely breakfast of loaded egg quesadillas, while watching a few flurries drift off of the upper mountain. After the sun started to heat our base camp weather-port and some digesting had taken place the team prepared their gear for our carry to Camp 1 tomorrow at 16,200'. The packs are heavy but the spirits are high as the mountain looms above.
For the rest of the evening the name of the game is chilling.....playing cards, eating snacks, taking in the sights, and trying to guess what our dinner could be by the delicious smell coming from the kitchen. Stay tuned as we continue our ascent tomorrow!
RMI Guides,
Garret, Ben, and Nick
Hi everyone. You know...it certainly can be disappointing. I guess that's why they call it Disappointment Cleaver, which is where we are right now.
However, our team is having fun and smiling. Hey! That's part of climbing. The mountain said no and we have to respect that. We will climb another day and we are happy about that.
Now, we will finish taking photos and focus on the most important part of climbing, getting down safely.
Ciao from Rainier.
RMI Guide JJ Justman
The Four Day Summit Climb led by Brent Okita and the Five Day Summit Climb led by Tyler Reid both reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning just after 7 am PT. Brent reported beautiful weather - bluebird skies without any wind. The low marine layer of clouds we are experiencing in Ashford tops out around 6,000' -7,000’.
The teams started their descent around 8:30 en route to Camp Muir. They will take a break there before continuing their descent to Paradise.
Congratulations to today's teams!
Awesome job, so glad you made it! So proud of my husband Curt! Yaaaay
Posted by: Rebecca McCLellan on 5/19/2013 at 5:01 pm
You did it! Scott I’m so excited to hear you made the summit! You must be so proud! I know I’m proud of you. I can’t wait to hear the stories! Safe travels home. I love you.
Our Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by Billy Nugent and Solveig Waterfall reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. It was a beautiful morning on the summit and the teams were able to spend some time enjoying the views. They have started their descent back to Camp Muir and will be back at Ashford Basecamp this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's teams!
Hey there! This is Billy calling in with our dispatch for July 3rd. The team woke up pretty early here in Quito. We got out of the hotel pretty quickly after a nice breakfast. We headed south of town to the Illinizas which is a really cool park to do another training hike. We ended up hiking for a few hours, climbing up above 15,000’. We made it to a Refugio which sits right in the saddle between Illiniza Norte and Illiniza Sur. We had some hot drinks then cruised on down. The team performed super well and so we were really psyched. After that we descended where Victor, our driver, rendezvoused with us again at the trailhead and we headed up to the Chilcabamba Eco Lodge where we had a fantastic meal and an awesome night! We are really enjoying the super, super bright full moon and amazing views of Cotopaxi which is our next big adjective. Tomorrow we are planning on heading that way, towards Cotopaxi, so we will give you a call and let you know how things are developing. That’s all for now, bye.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Sorry for the delay of game blogoneers! Yesterday was so jammed packed and busy with doing nothing that I forgot to blog. We awoke at 6am with high hopes of starting our summit day but instead when we poked our heads outside it looked like we were inside of a marshmallow. The lighting was so flat that up was indistinguishable from down. Suffice it to say, those are not ideal conditions for going uphill and assessing unknown avalanche terrain from the bottom up. So we stayed put and waited, and waited, and waited… until around 1pm we got sunshine for a whole 20 minutes! Then back into the clouds.
The team had high spirits and we enjoyed our weather day as best we could with movies, podcasts, music and books. Today was a new day! The skies were clear and we had a long way to go ahead of us. We packed up camp and descended from 747 Pass in great time compared to what it took us to come up it. Clouds started to pour over from the next valley and soon we had an overcast sky above us. We made it back to our cache we had left behind two days prior and had a nice, leisurely lunch. Then we reshuffled all our gear to make use of the sleds again and started tromping up glacier. A vicious headwind and snow hampered our progress but only slightly as the team was strong and motived to make it back to the airstrip. After a grueling climb of the final glacial hill, we were back where we started. What seems like a life time was only a week ago. The team expertly and quickly assembled camp, downed a tasty meal of garlic siracha bacon Mac and cheese, and promptly fell asleep. A well deserved rest after a long and arduous day. Assuming the clouds clear by morning, we’ll be back in Talkeetna tomorrow!
The Kautz Seminar June 23 - 28 made their summit attempt today, they climbed the crux of the route and reached 14,000' between Point Success and the true summit before weather turned them around. RMI Guide Tyler Jones reported a thick cloud cap with snow and cold temperatures. The team will descend to camp and continue their training on the mountain for the next few days.
Is wonderful to see everyone is in such thoughtful and knowledgeable hands.
Posted by: Anne on 5/25/2022 at 7:23 pm
Safety is priority #1. Your wise in waiting for safe climbing conditions. Hang in there, this will happen soon.
Posted by: Larry Shears on 5/25/2022 at 7:02 pm
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