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Vinson Low Camp, Branscomb Glacier

We accomplished our move up from basecamp in fine style today. Within the first thirty minutes on the track, we burst out of a low cloud layer into brilliant sunshine and the bluest of skies. All seemed to be feeling strong and as our loads were lighter than on yesterday's carry, we cranked up the pace a notch. We cruised in to camp in just over 4 hrs. Namgya Sherpa led a rope with Tim Amos and Leif Whittaker. I tied in with John Kelly, Brent Huntsman and Sashko Kedev. I enjoyed chatting with Namgya at our rest breaks. He has climbed Everest 9 times along with ascents of Cho Oyu, Dhalagiri and Shishipangma. When I thought about those numbers a bit, I realized something peculiar about the approximately 25 climbers that make up Vinson's current population. I've got eleven, Willie Benegas and Vern Tejas have about nine Everest summits each, together with a healthy handful by guides Scott Wollums, Michael Horst and David Hamilton... Throw in a few more for the clients on our teams who have been up (like Sashko on our team) and the grand total must be up near sixty. But none of that will be very comforting if we can't manage to climb Vinson in the coming days. Luckily for us, Namgya has already been up Vinson three times this season and knows the way. He is from the eastern part of Nepal, near Kangchenjunga, but these days lives part of each year in Kathmandu, part in Cambridge, England and part in Antarctica. The other teams on the mountain have spread out a bit, with some now at high camp, some having carried high and with ourselves bringing up the rear. Fine with us, that way. Today was a classic antarctic climbing day. The air temperature probably didn't pass 5 degrees F, but with intense sun reflected off extremely clean white snows, the apparent temperature was downright Carribean. We were treated to splendid views of the big and steep mountains to the north which are seldom climbed. Shinn, Epperly and Gardiner are massive and formidable and don't exactly beckon to those of moderate skill (we couldn't see Tyree today, but it is even more massive and more formidable and does even less beckoning). We enjoyed a fine dinner in our new home and turned in, tying everything down in case of storm... such a thing is difficult to imagine just now as there isn't a hint of wind and the midnight sun continues to blaze away in the summer sky. It will get intensely cold in a few hours when the sun ducks behind Vinson... But as I say, who wants to think about that now?
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Mt. Elbrus: Grom & Entire Team Reach Summit!

100% on top! We did it! We stood on Mt. Elbrus, the highest point of Europe. I have to admit we were pretty lucky with the weather, as it was near perfect. The team did a fantastic job of taking care of themselves and climbed strong. We reached the summit at 7:30 AM in clear skies with a wonderful view of the entire Caucus mountain range with very little wind, which is rare here. But it didn't end there, after descending back to the saddle between the 2 summits that Elbrus has, a few of us decided to climb both summits while the rest of the team descended safely back to camp. It only added an additional 1.5hrs, so not too bad, especially since we had such amazing weather. After everyone returned to camp, we had a quick lunch and then packed up to head down valley to our hotel at the base of the mountain. Everyone is in high spirits and feeling great after some much needed hot showers. RMI Guide Casey Grom and comrades
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Mt. McKinley: Beren’s Team at High Camp

Sunday, June 16th, 2013 Holy cow we made it up! Leaving early, we passed RMI 4 at the base of the fixed lines, high fiving as we continued our climb. The team did a remarkable job making it to high camp in fine time. The West Buttress proper is the most fun part of the route and earns the namesake title. We cruised up to our cache at the base of Washburn's Thumb and barely slowed down with the extra weight. Arriving at camp didn't even require a coat once we stopped. The weather is perfect now and all we need is one more day and I'm sure the team will make it to the top. We are ready to outchill weather if it comes, but hopefully we can get one more day of this fantastic weather. Send us all good weather vibes if you please and we will check in tomorrow. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

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Sweet they way i read this is you summited on an absolutley gorgeous day.  Way to go.

Posted by: Terry Kramer on 6/18/2013 at 1:24 pm

The KEI team is cheering you on.  Can’t wait to see the pics.  Barbara you are awesome and put us all to shame.  We are so very proud f you.

Posted by: Terry Kramer on 6/17/2013 at 9:55 am


Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Nugent & Team Visit Otavalo Market

Finally, we headed for the hills! A quick breakfast at San Luis and an easy checkout (not necessarily the norm) made for a smooth start to another busy day cruising around Ecuador. Right off the bat we headed for the Otavalo marketplace, world famous for its street food and local handicrafts. It being Saturday, the market frenzy was at a climax and the gang enjoyed a unique opportunity to experience Ecuadorian and more specially Otavalan culture. Not wanting to risk a potential intestinal disruption, we decided to grab lunch at the Cafe de la Vaca on our way over to Cayambe. After hiking for about an hour we arrived at the Refugio high on Cayambe's flank and settled in. Freshly baked pizzas for dinner were a welcome change to typical mountain food. Everybody is bracing for a rough first night above 15,000'. We'll check in tomorrow and let you know how the first night went. All for now, RMI Guide Billy Nugent

On The Map

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Aconcagua: RMI Team at Pampa de Las Leñas

We had a great hike down to Pampa de Las Leñas. A little rain on the way but has changed to blue skies. The team is doing well and is excited to celebrate our last night in the mountains with an Argentine-style barbecue. We'll check in tomorrow from Mendoza! RMI Guide Gabriel Barral & the Aconcagua team
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Hope you are enjoying Mendoza with your 2 xtr days,
excited to hear the details.

Posted by: Fred & Jan on 1/27/2011 at 8:21 am

Keith. . .

Glad you made it. . . on a side note, you’re “on-call” when you return and while I’m skiing next week. 

Kamran sends his love, and since it snowed 1 inch today, he of course stayed home.  I am piss!

Posted by: Brian E on 1/26/2011 at 12:29 pm


Ecuador Seminar: Hailes & Entire Team Reach Summit of Cayambe

RMI Guide Walter Hailes checked in the from the summit of Cayambe at 18,997' today.  The entire group reached the summit in what sounds like great conditions. 

Listen to Walter's voicemail below.

Nice work team!  Congratuations!

The team has safely descended and will enjoy a bit of a rest day tomorrow along with some training.


RMI Guide Walt Hailes calls from the summit of Cayambe.

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Aconcagua: Wedel & Team Summit & return to Camp 3

Hello to our friends and family!

We talked about this as a team yesterday before we went to bed “the possibility exists that we could make it to the top!” But if we knew for sure then my job (as a guide) would be so boring and mountains wouldn’t be that fun for anyone to climb.

You don’t come here because you know you are going to succeed. You come to the mountains because you are open to both - success and failure.

Today some of the team stood on the summit of this beautiful and brutal mountain and some of us turned around. But each one of us was pushed in a different way and most definitely beyond limits we had previously set for ourselves. We endured strong, cold winds from start to finish, learned something about ourselves along the way and are all safely back in our tents at campo 3. I’ll call that a successful day - summit or not.

After such a tough climb, most everyone is snoozing in their tents. Going to 22,841 feet really takes it out of you.

Jack and I will wake everyone up soon for their favorite meal ever, FREEZE DRY (hopefully the last one of this trip) and then we’ll all head straight back to bed to sleep better than we’ve ever slept at 19,600 feet.

Big, big winds are moving in so we’ll get an early start tomorrow on our descent to base camp.

I’m so proud of each person on this team and the courage they had to try something so hard.

RMI Guide Jess Wedel

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Eagerly Await Blue Skies to Fly

June 1, 2023, 10:30 pm PDT

MOUNTAIN DAY 22 -

We had hopes this morning as the base camp manager said to ready everything and that planes were on the way. By 8:30 several planes hit the runway and stayed to load climbers. They departed and as the clouds edged closer, we were told they were launching planes for us and they were trying to get in. But the snow started and visibility shut down and the planes stopped landing. We kept waiting for the snow to stop and a hole to open, but it didn't come. It is now calm, but snowing prolifically. Midwinter, we would be going to sleep excited about the powder day to come. Here, we beg for it to stop so we can make our way home. But we are in a beautiful place, and we count ourselves warm, dry, and lucky to experience the power of the Alaska Range. 

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer and team

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Denali Expedition: Hahn and Team Gather in Talkeetna

Saturday June 18th - 11:52pm PT

The Denali team formed up in Anchorage this afternoon.  We flew from Seattle and Frankfurt and Johannesburg and a few other places.   Not every single piece of luggage made it through, but we have high hopes for getting it all together soon.   

It was cloudy in central Alaska today, but we could see hints of mountains as we drove up toward Talkeetna.  We made the traditional stop in Wasilla to round out our expedition food supplies, and then got on board the Denali Overland van once again for the final 90 minutes into Talkeetna.  A brief stop at K2 Aviation around 6 PM allowed us to offload gear, and then we checked into our rooms at the Swiss Alaska Inn.  The team made the short walk into town to relax with outside beers and pizzas.  Town was busy and bustling on this endless summer evening.  We went to the banks of the mighty Susitna River to see if Denali was visible, but the clouds stayed put and made us guess at what we were missing.  

Tomorrow morning, we’ll meet over breakfast and dive into the details of packing and prepping for our Denali West Buttress Expedition

Best Regards,

Dave Hahn and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good luck to all team members! 
Stay safe everyone!
An adventure of a lifetime!

Margaret Nolan

Posted by: Margaret Nolan on 6/20/2022 at 2:04 pm

You Go Jim!

Posted by: Gary Gustafson on 6/20/2022 at 4:36 am


Mt. Rainier: September 4, 2013

RMI Guide Billy Nugent led the Four Day Summit Climb to the top of Disappointment Cleaver this morning before encountering strong winds, low visibility, and precipitation. The teams have safely returned to Camp Muir and are getting ready to descend back to Paradise. We are excited to welcome the teams back in Ashford early this afternoon.
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We are so proud of you, Doug. All your hard work and training has paid off. Can’t wait to hear all about your adventure! Mom and Dad Hicks

Posted by: Byron and Nancy on 9/5/2013 at 6:54 am

Way to go Jack and Beth!!! Sorry to hear you couldn’t make it all the way to the top, but way to get to 12,300’!!! Can’t wait to hear more about it next week!

James Rogers

Posted by: James Rogers on 9/4/2013 at 5:23 pm

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