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We accomplished our move up from basecamp in fine style today. Within the first thirty minutes on the track, we burst out of a low cloud layer into brilliant sunshine and the bluest of skies. All seemed to be feeling strong and as our loads were lighter than on yesterday's carry, we cranked up the pace a notch. We cruised in to camp in just over 4 hrs. Namgya Sherpa led a rope with Tim Amos and Leif Whittaker. I tied in with John Kelly, Brent Huntsman and Sashko Kedev. I enjoyed chatting with Namgya at our rest breaks. He has climbed Everest 9 times along with ascents of Cho Oyu, Dhalagiri and Shishipangma. When I thought about those numbers a bit, I realized something peculiar about the approximately 25 climbers that make up Vinson's current population. I've got eleven, Willie Benegas and Vern Tejas have about nine Everest summits each, together with a healthy handful by guides Scott Wollums, Michael Horst and David Hamilton... Throw in a few more for the clients on our teams who have been up (like Sashko on our team) and the grand total must be up near sixty. But none of that will be very comforting if we can't manage to climb Vinson in the coming days. Luckily for us, Namgya has already been up Vinson three times this season and knows the way. He is from the eastern part of Nepal, near Kangchenjunga, but these days lives part of each year in Kathmandu, part in Cambridge, England and part in Antarctica. The other teams on the mountain have spread out a bit, with some now at high camp, some having carried high and with ourselves bringing up the rear. Fine with us, that way. Today was a classic antarctic climbing day. The air temperature probably didn't pass 5 degrees F, but with intense sun reflected off extremely clean white snows, the apparent temperature was downright Carribean. We were treated to splendid views of the big and steep mountains to the north which are seldom climbed. Shinn, Epperly and Gardiner are massive and formidable and don't exactly beckon to those of moderate skill (we couldn't see Tyree today, but it is even more massive and more formidable and does even less beckoning). We enjoyed a fine dinner in our new home and turned in, tying everything down in case of storm... such a thing is difficult to imagine just now as there isn't a hint of wind and the midnight sun continues to blaze away in the summer sky. It will get intensely cold in a few hours when the sun ducks behind Vinson... But as I say, who wants to think about that now?

Two Days After the Conquest of Mount Doom:

The morning after a thrilling evening at base camp, where Yev and Jim engaged in an epic battle of Farkle (which ended conclusively in a tie), we embarked on a new challenge. Our weary legs carried us on a 17-mile trek through the beautiful Relinchos Valley and Vacas Valley, winding our way to our next camp at Pampa de Las Leñas.

As we traversed through the two valleys, we crossed rivers by foot and marveled at the majestic peak of Aconcagua as it was slowly obscured from view. Then, quite unexpectedly, we stumbled upon the fabled Fountain of Youth! This natural spring bubbled with crystal-clear water, inviting us to partake in its rejuvenating properties. We solved a mystery that has plagued explorers and adventurers for thousands of years. The fountain of youth is precisely located at coordinates 32.6439307 South, 69.8435342 West.

As we settle into our camp at Pampa de Las Leñas, we can't help but feel grateful for this incredible journey. Yev has conquered his precious summit, we discovered the Fountain of Youth, and most importantly: Nick and Jim have gathered many rusty horseshoes for their collections. A good day.

RMI Climber James Loudin

Tuesday, October 8, 2024 - 4:09 am PT

The stars and satellites were twinkling when we left Lungdhen at 5:25 AM. It appeared to be a perfect morning for our big climb.  The trail was steep and unrelenting, right off the bat, but the team was moving well.  By the first rest break we no longer needed headlamps and the jagged peaks were bathed in splendid sunlight.  After the initial hills, we walked through rolling and sandy hills amid alpine lakes.  We began to encounter the snow that fell while we were coming into Kathmandu a week ago.  It got a little deeper as we got on the steep rock switchbacks and ledges that led to the pass itself.  It was tricky going.  There was no room for slipping or tripping.  But our amazing guide team of Tenzing, Lakpa Tenzing, Santa and Rai were vigilant and enormously helpful. The team had certainly noticed the 17,600 ft of elevation when we hit the pass, but it was so magical to be standing there in bright sun with no wind and the whole world seemingly revealed, that the gang smiled through whatever pain they were feeling.  Right there in front of us were Everest, Lhotse and Makalu (the first, fourth and fifth highest mountains in the world.)  We ate, drank and took pictures. It was easy to just hang out, gazing at a thousand mountains and glaciers, but after about thirty minutes it was time to get busy with a safe descent.  We’d made the pass at about 11 AM and were headed down the other side by about 11:40.  The snowy path through steep rock demanded laser focus, but things got easier as we descended.  We pulled into Gokyo 9.5 hours after we’d begun the day, having covered 8.7 tough (but beautiful) miles.  Our guesthouse sits on the edge of a turquoise lake at nearly 15,700 ft.  The team was happy to find their rooms in the comfortable Fitzroy Lodge. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

PC: Dave Hahn

Our team is all packed and ready to go, optimistic that we'll have the opportunity to fly in to Kahiltna Basecamp today. After a full day of packing on Monday, we eagerly awaited a weather window for flying into the Alaska Range, but it never materialized. Instead, we enjoyed another evening in a real bed, with hot showers and flush toilets. This morning we'll be on standby to see if the weather is flyable. The weather trend is improving, so fingers crossed that our next communication will be from a glacier!  We will keep you updated.

RMI Guide Mike Walter 

The Four Day Summit Climb August 12 - 15 and the Five Day Summit Climb August 11 - 15 both reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. RMI Guides Leon Davis and Geoff Schellens reported they were in a cloud cap on the summit with low visibility and light winds from the South/Southwest. The teams began their descent from the crater rim shortly after 7 am. They will return to Camp Muir for a short break before continuing their descent to Paradise this afternoon. Congratulations to today's climbers!

Wednesday, June 26th, 2013 The climbing team ate a hardy breakfast at The Talkeetna Roadhouse. We talked climbing and safety as we chewed bacon and swilled coffee. Our excellent meal prepared us for a giant day of packing and organizing to fly on to Denali. Longtime legendary NPS climbing ranger Roger Robinson gave our pre-climb briefing at the ranger station, after which we trooped on out to the K2 Aviation hangar to get into the nuts and bolts of getting our gear ready for the mountain. We worked through some unbelievably hot hours, checking tents, stoves, ropes, pots and clothes. Massive cumulonimbus clouds formed as the day went along and thunder boomed, but the storm never really hit Talkeetna. We enjoyed a great dinner together at the popular West Rib Pub and then turned in. All were intent on resting up from this big and busy day to be ready for a bigger and busier day tomorrow, hopefully one that gets us onto Denali. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

The first full day of the trip has been a blast. We started off with breakfast at the hotel in Mexico City. While we were eating the military honor guard raised the national flag in front of the presidential palace giving us quite the show. After that we peeled out of town and headed for the mountains. On our way out we stopped to get some water and one of the guys found a soccer ball that he just had to have. So now we have a team soccer ball. The drive was real smooth and we pulled into the cabanas at La Malinche before noon. Once we moved in we set off for a hike. We ended up getting to about 13,700 feet on La Malinche and set a new altitude record for Dave! We have just returned from the hike and we're all starving. Dinner is in 8 minutes so I've got to go! RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

We have arrived in the quaint little ski town of Penitentes. It was nice enjoying the "good life" in Mendoza. However, it's a refreshing change getting into the high desert mountains near Aconcagua. The team organized our gear to be carried in by the mules. Then it was quickly off to dinner at Hotel Ayelen. I'd like to joke that it was the team's last good meal. However, we have several kilos of filet mignon and fresh chickens to grill and I'm planning on making my 2001 award winning homemade pesto served over hand made angel hair pasta. Sorry, we won't send photos of that, don't want to make you too jealous. RMI Guide JJ Justman

On The Map

Hi this is Seth. Today we did a dry run for our climb by heading up to Ingraham Flats this morning. The wind was blowing us around a bit but at least the sun was still out. After spending an hour at 'The Flats' we dropped down onto the Cowlitz Glacier for a round of crevasse rescue training. The crevasse that we picked out was great and everyone was brave enough to go down in it. Now we're relaxing for the evening. Tonight we climb! RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

It doesn't always happen like this up here, but when you can fly out of Talkeetna at 9 am, just like you planned, it is a real sweet start to a trip. We landed on a warm glacier and spent the day settling into our new pace on the mountain. Building camp, rigging sleds, reviewing some techniques and most importantly checking out the views. It is stunning here and perfect weather for starting this adventure. If it holds we will wake up and head towards 7,800' camp at the base of Ski Hill tomorrow, testing our new knowledge and taking our first literal steps. Til then, RMI Guides Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos, Thomas Greene and the gang.

On The Map