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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Carry Gear to Windy Corner

June 29, 2021

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Dominic Cifelli, Matt McEttrick

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Monday, June 28, 2021 - 9:59 pm PT

We were up by six this morning, braving the chilly shadows (the sun hits 11,000' Camp at 9:15) in order to get on the trail early. Although it was tough to tell just what the weather was going to do, it seemed there wasn’t much wind evident on the ridges we wanted to be around. After a deluxe breakfast in the dining tent, we geared up for climbing. So nice to be putting on crampons instead of snowshoes, so nice to have an ice axe in hand for the steeper terrain we were getting on. We were able to do our carry without hauling sleds, so -although the packs were heavy- it felt like a day of freedom in some respects. The first hour got us up Motorcycle and halfway up Squirrel Hill. After a long week down in the valleys it was wonderful to have the views from the ridges and rises we were topping. Just about the time when the sun might have hit us and warmed things up, the clouds began to gather, which kept us pleasantly cool. We took a second rest break in the Polo Field and by just after noon we were sitting at a windless Windy Corner. A shorter stretch took us up and around the corner and into our intended cache site. We spent a pleasant hour there at 13,500 ft, getting some good views of the South Peak of Denali and the West Buttress while we dug in and buried our supplies. We worked extra hard to make the cache raven-proof. It then took just ninety minutes to descend with lightened packs to 11,000' Camp -most of that was spent walking in thick cloud. We rested and ate dinner as it snowed lightly through the afternoon and evening. We’d love to move up to 14,000' tomorrow, but we shall see what the morning brings.

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Denali Expedition: Frank & Team Ascend to Camp 1 at 7,800ft

May 21, 2021

Posted by: Eric Frank, James Bealer, Jack Delaney

Categories:

Elevation: 7,800'

Thursday, May 20, 2021 - 10:36 pm PT

Sometimes it’s not so fun to be right. Turns out we were right about the incoming snow storm. We moved to Camp 1 at 7,800' today through continuous snowy weather. The guide team safely navigated us across the Kahiltna, while Eric proved he was a talented linguist by regaling us with stories during our breaks. Tomorrow we hope to cache food and extra equipment above Ski Hill and then return to our camp.

RMI Guides Eric Frank, James Bealer, Jack Delaney and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Go Heidi!!! We are following along as well! :)

Carol & Huay

Posted by: Huay on 5/22/2021 at 6:00 pm

Elliot
Loving the updates. Stay strong and tap into your tenacious spirit. Our best to you and your fellow travelers.
Love
Mom and Daf

Posted by: Susan and Bert Campos on 5/22/2021 at 9:57 am

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Mt. Elbrus: North Side Team Wraps Up in St. Petersburg

August 16, 2017

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Northside

The Mt. Elbrus North Side expedition is a wrap. As I write, I am sitting in the Amsterdam airport, and the team is in the process of scattering to the winds; some will continue traveling, while others are headed home to family and friends. It's amazing that the trip is already over, as it flew by. We spent yesterday on a walking tour of the best cathedrals, gardens, and palaces of St. Petersburg. The sheer size and scale of St. Isaac's Cathedral was stunning, the luminous mosaics of the Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood were fascinating, and the history of the founding of the city and derive during WWII were enlightening. We wandered through the Hermitage, as enthralled with the architecture and ornate rooms as we were with the collection of some of the world's finest art. Degas, Renoir, Michalangelo, Picasso, and so many more were on display. We finished up the trip with a delightful boat tour in the River Nieva, seeing St. Petersburg from the vantage that most in 1800 would have seen it, via the canals. Finally we gathered one last time at the Jerome for a last celebration dinner before we parted. It's been a fantastic trip, with an smashing bunch of new friends. We had great weather, a perfect summit day, built a hut, and tried to become a bit more worldly along the way. So many thanks to this group of climbers. Mike and I had so much fun, and we look forward to crossing paths in the mountains again soon! RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Mike Uchal

Justman & Team Kickoff The Aconcagua Season!

December 16, 2014

Posted by: JJ Justman, Steve Gately, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 9,000'

The gang is all here! The Aconcagua season is officially under way! Today after final preparations the team began trekking into basecamp. First stop, Leñas at 9,000 feet. The sun was shining, the condors were chirping and everyone had a great day hiking! We now plan on enjoying our first night in the Andes. Why sleep in a tent when you can cowboy up and sleep under the stars!! Speaking of cowboys...we are hanging out with our team of Gauchos as they start the fire. The steaks just went on, the salad is made and our drinks are on their way! Ahh yes, this is the life! RMI Guide JJ Justman

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Powder Wading

July 17, 2014

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Ben Liken, Sean Collon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

July 17, 2014 - 8:45 pm PT In just under 24 hours, our climbing team went from the 17,200 ft high camp to the 7,200 ft basecamp. It wasn't remotely easy. Luckily, we had a calm start to the day which allowed us to balance carefully down the exposed and spectacular crest of the West Buttress. Things got tougher at the base of the fixed lines when we needed to virtually swim through bottomless powder snow. We reached easier terrain upon which one could walk laboriously in knee deep new snow and this ground got us to 14 camp. We did a fry-up of a few quesadillas while reorganizing gear and then set off in cloud toward Windy Corner. Plenty of snow kept us walking funny and breathing hard as we negotiated the side hills and corners of Squirrel Hill and then Motorcycle. At 11 camp we threw up tents and downed dinner. The team wanted to just sleep for a few hours before resuming the march to BC at 2:30 AM. The early start would give our best chance at catching the lower glacier in a frozen (rather than slushy) state. We pushed on through the night gloom, a few thick fog banks and miles of glacier. It was great to see -as expected from conditions on the way in- that the lower Kahiltna was well put together. Very few crevasse crossings troubled us. Finally we got working, trudging and sweating up Heartbreak Hill. As we progressed, the weather improved to the point that with our arrival at the former site of Basecamp (nothing remains so late in the season) it was good enough to dial up K2 Aviation on the Sat Phone and seek a pickup. The K2 pilots did their normal exceptional job in whisking us out of winter and into the Talkeetna summer. Day 21 of our climb will end with a victory dinner in town. True, we stopped a couple thousand feet short of the summit, but victory is still ours. It feels that good to have endured Denali together. Best Regards and thanks for following, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

An amazing 21 days for the team and for those of us who climbed vicariously with you all the way up and back down! We do not regret missing the summit, since the climb is a great success in itself, proving who you all are, and allowing us “lowlanders” to share in your successes!

Dennis and Georgia

Posted by: Dennis and Georgia on 7/18/2014 at 10:30 am

Congrats on your safe return. It is always a good day when you live to climb another day. Now you can plan your next climb!! :o)

Safe travels.

Posted by: Mary on 7/18/2014 at 3:47 am

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Kilimanjaro: Grom & Team at Machame Camp

August 20, 2013

Posted by: Casey Grom

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro

Elevation: 9,800'

Hello again everyone. We had a early departure from the Dik Dik Lodge and drove east for about two hours to reach Kilimanjaro National Park. Our drive took us through the rural country side of Tanzania which is full of banana and coffee plantations, markets and plenty of people headed between home and the local water well. It was very surreal to see so many folks who depend on these wells for their water, especially watching them walking with 5 gallon jugs carefully balanced on their heads. Once at the gate we took a short break to sign in and allow our team to arrange all the loads and hire all of our porters for the seven-day climb. Our team started with 11 climbers and quickly grew as we acquired all the support of cooks, waiters, camp crew and porters and we ended up at a total of 68! Just before 11 a.m. we set off on the trail that ascended through the forest and slowly climbed all the way up to just shy of 10,000'. It took the team a little over four hours to reach our camp and everyone did fantastic and enjoyed the hike. The team just finished dinner and are all comfortably resting in our warm sleeping bags- thanks to the hot water bottles our gracious crew prepared for us. Not quite roughing it yet! RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Chris and Jess,
Love following the climb and your progress ... I can only imagine how awesome it must be. Everything is looking up for you guys ): , haha. Enjoy, stay safe and I look forward to seeing the photos!
Love you guys,
Lorraine

Posted by: lorraine bocci on 8/22/2013 at 7:16 am

Chris - Jess sending extra energy your way—the next 9,000 feet is a breeze…enjoy… you two rock.

Posted by: Bocci clan on 8/21/2013 at 10:13 am

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Mt. Rainier: May 18th Update - Summit!

May 18, 2013

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Pete Van Deventer, Walter Hailes, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

Congratulations to the Four Day Summit Climb team led by Adam Knoff! They reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning! The team left Camp Muir with clear and pleasant weather. As the climb progressed a front moved in and the team experienced some light snowfall and 10 mph winds. They spent some time on the summit and began their descent at 9:15 a.m.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

It was great climbing with you all and thanks to all of our guides.

Posted by: Josh on 5/22/2013 at 7:22 pm

YAY good job daddy!!! and happy birthday!!! Keith Hutchinson!!!!!

Posted by: Nate Hutchinson on 5/19/2013 at 4:45 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team at 11,000’ Camp

June 9, 2011

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,000'

It's a little soupy here at 11,000' camp this afternoon, but we're sitting pretty after retrieving our cache from 10k earlier today. A frosty morning greeted us when we woke, but a hearty round of hot drinks & breakfast burritos (eggs, cheese, salsa and hot sauce all wrapped in warm tortillas) soon chased the chill away and fueled us up for the quick trip downhill to our gear buried in the snow. Within minutes after arriving at the cache, we were packing all the food and personal luggage into our backpacks and sleds for the short uphill stretch to camp. The team moved smoothly back up and is now settled in for another afternoon of rest. We're hopeful that the weather holds for a carry to 14k tomorrow, which will be the biggest test of strength and stamina so far. But the crew continues to impress with the collective performance so we're confident about what lies ahead. Last night at dinner, we shared some of your comments with the group. Everyone says thank you very much for keeping the team in your thoughts, and they appreciate your interest in our trip. Keep the positivity flowing as we continue our adventure! Cheers, RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Erik Endert & Garrett Stevens

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

IFMGA guide Tyler!
All my love, hugs and smiles! Think of grandpa at the summit and be safe!! MOM and Tommy Best to the team!!

Posted by: Sharon Pyle on 6/11/2011 at 7:44 pm

Ty,

Thinking about you while your Mom and I are here in Chicago. Take care and be safe.

Love, Tara

Posted by: Tara on 6/11/2011 at 7:43 pm

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Ecuador: Resting after a Successful Summit Day

January 27, 2011

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

We're all down from Cotopaxi, healthy and happy after a successful summit climb! We woke up at midnight and left the climbers' hut at ~1:30 am... headed for the summit. The weather was spectacular: no wind, moderate temperature, and a crystal clear, starry sky. Our team climbed strong, and 7 1/2 hours later we were all congratulating each other on top! The snow conditions were perfect for cramponing--a good thing because we had some exposed traverses and a steep ice chute to negotiate up near the summit. The route was very enjoyable, and challenged us not only with its altitude, but its variety. This team of climbers attempted Cotopaxi last summer, but we were denied its summit by a violent storm. Persistent folks we climbers are; we scheduled this reunion trip and it paid dividends. We had great climbing weather and summitted 3 peaks in 4 days... all of which are higher than any peak in the Continental US! Now we're getting some much needed rest at the hacienda Chilcabamba. After a leisurely breakfast we'll head back to Quito tomorrow morning. I'll be in touch tomorrow. RMI Guide Mike Walter

Mt. Baker: Gately & Team Summit via the Easton Glacier

July 24, 2023

Posted by: Steve Gately, Ellison Boord, Nick Sinapius

Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

Elevation: 10,781'

RMI Guide Steve Gately and the Mt. Baker - Easton Glacier team July 22 - 24 reached the summit today. They returned to camp and enjoyed a restful afternoon. The team will continue their descent tomorrow and return to the trail head to conclude their program.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

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Most Popular Entries

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Carry Gear to Windy Corner

Denali Expedition: Frank & Team Ascend to Camp 1 at 7,800ft

Mt. Elbrus: North Side Team Wraps Up in St. Petersburg

Justman & Team Kickoff The Aconcagua Season!

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Powder Wading

Kilimanjaro: Grom & Team at Machame Camp

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: May 18th Update - Summit!

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team at 11,000’ Camp

Ecuador: Resting after a Successful Summit Day

Mt. Baker: Gately & Team Summit via the Easton Glacier

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