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Aconcagua: RMI Team Moves to Camp 2

The team woke early today to make our move to Camp 2. Just over three hours after leaving Camp 1, the group rolled into our new home under bright sunny skies and a chilly breeze. Everyone was relieved to shed the weight of packs at 18,000 feet. Tents are up and everyone is resting and beginning the process of acclimating anew. Stokemeter Tonight and tomorrow are supposed to be very windy, so we will see in the morning if we are going to do our scheduled carry to Camp 3, or whether we will sit tight. We'll let everyone know tomorrow! Today's stoke meter is resting between 6 and 7. We worked hard, but everyone is excited to be that much closer to our objective. Until tomorrow, The RMI Aconcagua expedition
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Garrett, your new nickname is Captain Stoketacular. FYI.

Posted by: Amy on 1/19/2011 at 10:23 am

Lisa, I am sitting at my computer following your awesome adventure step by step! Girlfriend, you rock!

Posted by: Karen on 1/19/2011 at 9:39 am


Mt. Rainier: Bergstrom & Emmons Seminar Team on Top!

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons July 7 - 12 team led by RMI Guides Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland, Thomas Skoog and Claire Pennell, reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning around 6 am. The team will descend to Camp Schurman for their final night on the mountain.  They have completed additional training during their days together including rope travel, cramponing, ice axe arrest, crevasse rescue, and expedition camping skills. Tomorrow they will return to the trailhead and make the drive back to Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford.

Nice work team!

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Denali Expedition: King & Team Take Weather Day at 14,000 Camp

Tuesday, June 8, 2021 - 2:52 pm PT

The weather front that was forecasted finally arrived in camp last night. While the winds and snow were light the weather above 14,000' Camp looked foreboding. We are planning on a move to 17,000' camp on Thursday unless the weather breaks in the morning. With the last push up in sight the team is busy playing cards, engaged in spirited debates on various issues and enjoying walking around camp meeting other climbers.

Mike Fortier would like to wish his wife a happy birthday!

RMI Guide Mike King

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hoping for clear weather, and continued high vibes for the crew! So stinking proud of y’all. Love you, so big, Abby!

-Rae

Posted by: Rae on 6/9/2021 at 7:00 am

Sabom, 94 degrees and 91% humidity in SoTex. The Mosquitos in the OP are healthy and active. Cars are selling like candy bars. Steady as she goes, my friend!  See you soon!
TS

Posted by: Thomas Stephens on 6/9/2021 at 5:37 am


Mt. McKinley: Haugen’s Team Has a Rest Day at 14K Camp

Friday, June 21st, 2013 Ahhhh a day of rest. We did not even move in our tents until the sun hit them at 9:30. We had a morning of slowly cooking pancakes for the group. We believe pancakes are the perfect acclimatization food. We volunteered to be guinea pigs for a medical experiment having to do with high altitude. The test involved having a series of heart rate and oxygen saturation measurements taken and then walk around a track for 6 minutes to see how those measurements change. It was not a competition, but let's just say our group crushed it! If the weather is nice tomorrow, our plan is to move some gear up to 17,000' Camp. On Denali, 60% of the time the weather is good all the time! RMI Guide Mike Haugen and RMI Summit Team 6

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Any smiley faces in the pancakes?  Glad you got some rest.  Big storms here (well, yes, it is all relative) but all is well.  :)

Posted by: KConstantine on 6/22/2013 at 9:25 pm

Pancakes, huh?  Well, OK.  But you know, the other teams are reporting Pop Tarts.  Since we live at 9500 feet, Bill and I are sure proof that Pop Tarts are the best high altitude food ever made.  But if you guys want to eat pancakes, carry on. 
Love to Steve & Grasshopper from Lisa, Bill, Taii, & Togo

Posted by: Lisa Mackey on 6/22/2013 at 6:56 pm


Mt. Rainier: Seminar Trains at Camp Muir

The Expedition Skills Seminar team awoke at Muir with sunny skies. We spent the day training outside going over basic climbing skills. Later this afternoon the weather rolled in and we retreated back into the comfort of our bunkhouse. There we continued training where the team safely learned self rescue out of a crevasse. Tonight we will enjoy dinner, lecture on high altitude medicine and tell some tall tales along the way. RMI Guide JJ Justman
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey; hope all is going great…have not heard from your guide for a couple of days; be safe.
Dad

Posted by: Jeff on 5/30/2013 at 9:15 pm

Dave,
I hope you are having a great time. I can’t wait to hear all about it!
Love, Renee

Posted by: Renee Kodey on 5/29/2013 at 9:05 pm


Alaska Seminar: Program Recap

Our time in the Alaska Range finished wrapped up just a couple of days ago. We had an extra 2 bonus days in the mountains. Our fly off date was set, but the weather determines our true fly off date. The snow began to fall the night before our scheduled departure date, it kept snowing for the following 2 days. Veteran climbers stated that this had been one of the biggest snowstorms, at Base Camp, that they could remember in the past 7 years. Over 3 ft of snow fell in a little more than a 36 hr period. We woke up on Saturday morning to crystal clear skies, soon the planes began to fill the skies. Everyone at base camp looking for a flight out spent the previous evening stomping out the run way for the planes. Still, when the planes landed it was obvious how deep the snow was for the planes. I think the pilots were getting faceshots, as the snow was hitting the windshields of the planes. We all arrived back in Talkeetna in the early afternoon, on Saturday. The week consisted of lots of information being uploaded and downloaded to a very enthusiastic group of climbers. Us guides were very impressed with how much information this group of climbers soaked up. Topics covered a wide variety of mountain tactics, how to simply live comfortably in an environment that was cold and snowy, how to set up a camp, crevasse rescue, snow and ice anchors, climber responsibilities, avalanches and rescue, ice climbing and the list continues. Everyone had a great time experiencing the Alaska range. Ideas have already been hatched for future trips to visit Little Switzerland, the Ruth Gorge or other objectives around the base camp area, from members of this group. Climbing around the Kahiltna base camp area offers a great experience for your first time to Alaska. Hopefully we will see you up here soon. Everyone is on their way home now but memories will last a long time of this very special place. Thanks again from Jason, Andres, Anne Gilbert and RMI
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Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Upper West Rib Team Move to 11,000’

Hello, this is Adam Knoff and the Upper West Rib Climbing Team. We are established comfortably here at 11,000’ on Mt. McKinley. We moved up today from our camp at 10,200’ in very nice weather. The weather deteriorated a little bit this afternoon bringing some clouds and light snow. We were able to climb above camp for a few hours and found a nice place to do some ice climbing and some training. That got everybody excited and morale is good. Everyone is feeling strong and we expect to make a carry up to 14,000’ tomorrow. Then we will see what the weather is like as the forecast calls for a low pressure system on Tuesday and Wednesday. This puts a little uncertainty into our planning so we'll play it by ear. As our team gets to know each other we have discovered that the never snoring Mr. James Fitch does in fact snore. And that is one of the fun new discoveries of the trip so far. We'll keep you posted as our plans for the upcoming days develop. RMI Guide Adam Knoff
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

James, glad to know you’ve finally gotten up there. It’s worth the wait. Courtney, nice job getting the heavy load hauling done. All spectacular country ahead. Be safe and have fun!

Posted by: Steve Bott on 5/31/2011 at 10:05 pm

Congrats on your progress so far - please continue to keep us posted, thank you.  So glad to hear the whole team is doing well.  If Peter is James’ tentmate, I’m glad he brought earplugs!  If possible, please tell Peter all is well back home and that his friends and family are cheering him on.

Posted by: Esther Kim on 5/31/2011 at 1:05 am


Elbrus Northside Team caches gear near Camp 1

A calm and warm night gaveway to another gorgeous morning here at Base Camp. After breakfast we shouldered our packs and set out. The first stretch of walking brought us through a series of steep valleys and rolls just above Elbrus Base Camp that are blanketed in lush green grass and wildflowers. Picking our way amongst the giant protrusions of volcanic rock from the mountain's formation we made our way higher, leaving the vegetation behind and entering the alpine zone of rock and dirt. By midday we reached our goal for the day - a flat plateau at just over 11,000' below the morraine leading to Camp 1. There we unloaded our packs and cached our gear amongst the rocks. This strategy of caching our gear higher on the mountain and then descending back to camp serves a twofold purpose: it allows us to move a portion of our gear ahead of us, making packs lighter tomorrow when we move camp, and also gives us a jumpstart on acclimatization by exposing our bodies to a higher altitude before descending back lower to recover. This strategy of "climb high, sleep low" is an important part of any climbing expedition to high altitudes and will greatly benefit us tomorrow when we move to Camp 1. After caching our gear and resting for a bit in the sun, we retraced our steps back to Base Camp, reaching our tents just before a small sprinkling of afternoon rain swept through the valley. Thankfully the rain blew through and the evening is beautiful. We have just wrapped up dinner and are getting ready to turn in for the night. The setting sun has lit up Elbrus' west side in a pink alpenglow as well as the small clouds hanging near the summit. It is a gorgeous night to be out in the mountains. We will check in tomorrow after moving up to Camp 1.
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Denali Expeditions: Van Deventer & Team Cache Gear at 17,000 ft Camp

Wednesday, May 24, 2023 - 9:00 am PT

The climbing along the West Buttress is some of the most fun and aesthetic of the whole Denali trip and we got a perfect day for it. We left early, with camp still in the shade and chilly. But we climbed out into the sun within the first hour. The fixed lines, which has been blue blue ice when we first got to 14,000' had pasted in with the last couple days of snow and there were nice steps kicked in for most of the way. We rolled over the top of the line onto the ridge to stunning views that extended forever. We could see trees from our perch (or at least green). We continued along the Buttress, picking our way through the airy terrain will above 14,000' Camp and the Peters Glacier on the other side. By afternoon, we walked into 17,000' Camp. Doing most anything at 17,000' is hard. You have to show down - how fast you walk, shovel, etc. We got a hole dug and left our goodies, then retraced our steps back to 14,000' Camp. The team did an incredible job and got the trip done in 10 hours. We were back in camp for dinner time. Things are set and now we wait for the weather to open a summit window.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

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Mt. Rainier: Frank, Konway & Teams Reach Summit on Beautiful Day

RMI Guide Eric Frank thinks it's a beautiful day to climb Mt. Rainier. Eric along with RMI Guide Jenny Konway and the Four Day Climb August 23 -26 reached the summit just before 7 AM today. The team reported clear skies but with strong winds from the top of Disappointment Cleaver to the summit. The teams enjoyed almost an hour in the crater enjoying the views before starting their descent. Once back at Camp Muir they will repack and get ready for the final descent to Paradise. Their program will conclude with a celebration at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's climbers!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Marlena, you are my hero!

Posted by: Angela Gordon on 8/26/2019 at 5:44 pm

Congratulations, Emmy, well done! One more down on your Bucket List!!

Love you!

Evie

Posted by: Evie D on 8/26/2019 at 10:46 am

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