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Know Snow - Getting Under Winter’s Blanket

March 3, 2016

Posted by: Kel Rossiter

Categories: Guide News Guide Grant

Before the big mountain bug bit me, I viewed snow as a blanket that came in the winter and lay quietly in place 'til spring's thaw. All that changed when I decided it wise to educate myself about avalanches. Taking part in the introductory Level 1 avalanche education course, I quickly learned how the snowpack, terrain, and triggers (like climbers or cornice falls) can transform that quiet blanket into a raging white dragon. Interested in learning more about this beast, I enrolled in a Level 2 avalanche course a few years later, and came to understand that each layer of snow that falls forms something of geologic record in that season's snowpack: if the snow falls warm, that layer will stay warm for a long time; if hail falls, it can be evident in the snowpack months later. Even more incredibly—similar to plates of geologic sedimentary matter—that seemingly silent white winter blanket is often actively undergoing radical metamorphosis due to vapor and temperature differences in the layers. This February—with the support of the RMI Guide Grant—I participated in a Level 3 course. It's something of a graduate level course in the University of Avalanches: A rigorous curriculum that explores the intricacies of snowpack dynamics and the techniques used to assess how stable the snowpack is. Our course took place in the Wasatch Mountains and it began a few days after one of that area's avalanche forecasters had declared it one of the weirdest snowpacks ever. An excellent classroom had been arranged! A key focus of the course was learning to quickly identify weak layers in the snowpack and then to assess the structure of that instability. One aspect of instability has to do with the kinds of snow crystals in between the layers. A Cliff Notes summary would be: square ones are bad, round ones are good. But how can you tell with something so small? Were they the good guys or the bad guys? First, I had to identify which layer to look at, a process of first poking the snow with my finger to determine layer interfaces, and then prodding it with a fist, four fingers, one finger, a pencil, or a knife to get some grip on the specific hardnesses. Once all that was established, it was time to sort out the good from the bad. Somewhat ironically, amidst all of the grandeur of the Wasatch, I was often peering into the little lens of a snow microscope looking at the edges of myriad little bits of snow to determine their personalities. Kel examines the universe of snowflakes with the hubble. Jake Hutchinson/American Avalanche Institute

Kel examines the universe of snowflakes with the hubble. Jake Hutchinson/American Avalanche Institute

Ultimately, beyond peering down a microscope, knowing the snow is a very sensory experience, incorporating sight, sound, and touch in order to determine its stability: windslabs are often squeaky like styrofoam, while faceted grains bounce off a gloved hand and make for a poor snowball. Of course, once stability is determined, the sensory experience is the pure enjoyment—how well does it ski? Through careful tracking of the Wasatch area over our week of study, we knew that north aspects were retaining the best snow. So, after our final exam, involving each person doing a complete analysis of the season's snowpack and weaknesses, we gathered together for a final run back into the front-country. We ripped our skins and then laid tracks down a beautiful bowl, each up us kicking up huge roostertails of powder joy—a reward for all of our diligent study. Jake Hutchinson of the American Avalanche Institute demonstrates an extended column test. Kel Rossiter

Jake Hutchinson of the American Avalanche Institute demonstrates an extended column test. Kel Rossiter

The pleasures of backcountry skiing and the benefits of big mountain climbing with skis are becoming increasingly known in the outdoor world and RMI is right out in front of the trend. Safely partaking of those pleasures and benefits involves really coming to know the snow. While in its essence knowledge of the snow is like knowledge itself, where “The more one knows the more one knows they don't completely understand,” coming away from the Level 3 avalanche course, I feel good in knowing that I'm keeping the learning edge sharp. That sharp edge will aid me whether cramponing up alpine routes on Rainier or schussing down couloirs in the North Cascades.

Kilimanjaro: Tucker & Team Celebration Time

July 22, 2013

Posted by: Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro

We were up early, slammed a quick breakfast then had a fun gathering of local staff and rewarded all of them with financial bonuses.This crew took great care of us while on the mountain, it felt really good to show our appreciation. A few hour descent to the park gate, a couple hour drive time watching the daily routine out the window of our monster truck and here we are. Back to hot showers and clean clothes. We just finished a dinner of fondue and topped it off with a bunch of summit certificates handed out to a group of well-deserving mountain climbers. More excitement ahead as we repack for the game viewing safari we start tomorrow. A great trip just keeps getting better. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

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Mt. Elbrus: Justman & Team Explore Moscow

July 2, 2013

Posted by: JJ Justman

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside

Hello from Moscow, Today our Mt. Elbrus June 30th team enjoyed a fantastic tour of the Kremlin. There is a lot to see and we want to give you a glimpse into this historically and culturally rich place. We hope you enjoy the video. RMI Guide JJ Justman

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Aconcagua: Nugent & Team Rest Day at Basecamp

February 7, 2013

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 13,800'

A rest day! The gang has been hanging out most of the day today catching up on sleep, reading, and calories. Our first night in Aconcagua Basecamp wasn't the smoothest... Despite sleeping quite well most of us were feeling a little lethargic this morning from spending the night at nearly 14,000'. Regardless, spirits are high after moving around a bit and getting prepared for tomorrow's carry/cache up at Camp 1. The guides spent the morning packing group food and equipment and the team has been packing up their personal gear that they plan to cache. The weather has been a little funky but nothing terrible, hopefully tomorrow brings better or at least similar weather for our first foray onto the upper mountain... Hasta mañana, RMI Guide Billy Nugent

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Aconcagua: Justman & Team Camp 2 Rest Day Gives Time for Reflection

January 15, 2013

Posted by: JJ Justman, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 18,000'

We woke on our rest say today to another beautiful morning on the Stone Sentinel, feeling good at our Camp 2 altitude of 18,200'. Although clouds have slowly built and a light snow is falling, team morale is high and the collective attitude is positive and charged with anticipation of the move to come. Everyone continues to climb well, and we're all taking care to eat and drink enough for the hard days ahead. Rest days give time to think, and something that always comes to mind is the total experience of mountain climbing. A big part of that experience is being present in the moment, finding the rhythm of walking and breathing, seeing the splendor of nature all around and being able to appreciate it without the distractions that are all too present in most of the world. The team is definitely embracing the moment, soaking up the beauty and enjoying the journey through this high and wild place. While occasional thoughts may jump forward and higher to the summit of South America, we are perfectly content to enjoy a cup of coffee and the company of friends new and old on this well-earned rest day. Keep us in your thoughts as we push higher and higher the next few days. The weather looks promising, the team is strong, and we look forward to the challenge ahead! RMI Guides JJ Justman, Geoff Schellens, Garrett Stevens and the Aconcagua team

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Kilimanjaro: Teams Last Day on Kilimanjaro

September 19, 2011

Posted by: Seth Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro

Hello from the village of Mweka! The group is all doing great. We started the day at our last camp, elevation 10,000 feet, with a great breakfast followed by a closing ceremony with our whole team. After that we hit the trail for a 3.5 hour hike down to the park gate. After signing out we had lunch and now we are riding in the truck back to the Dik Dik hotel. Everyone is psyched to hit the showers and start the celebration party. After tonight our trip will shift gears as we start our four days of Safari! That's all for now. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

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Mexico: SUMMIT!

February 16, 2011

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico

Elevation: 17,340'

Hello everybody this is Jake with RMI’s Mexico Volcanoes Trip. Our team is standing on the top of Ixtaccihuatl right now about to catch the sunrise. Beautiful day, light winds, really strong team. Everybody is doing great. Really couldn’t ask for a better day. Thanks to everybody back home. We will be touching base when we get a little bit lower. Have a good one. It’s pretty good up here. RMI Guide Jake Beren

Team Completes Frist Day of Acclimatization Hikes in Ecuador

December 2, 2010

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 10,000 ft.

Hi everybody, it's Billy checking in with another dispatch from Quito, Ecuador. Today's events brought us some of the first exertion of the trip. After a pleasant breakfast the crew geared up and headed out in taxis to the teleferico where we rode a gondola up to 13,600'. From there we began our first acclimitzation hike up on the volcano, Rucu Pichincha. We hiked up through bright green hillsides and skirted some large volcanic cliffs, moving in and out of the clouds, all the while with the sprawl of Quito far below. It was a pretty cool place to get things started with some amazing views when the clouds parted. After stretching our legs and working our lungs a bit we headed back down to Quito in the late afternoon. The day finished with a thorough gear check for the mountaineering to come and a team dinner on our last night here in Quito. Tomorrow, an early rise and escape from Babylon will take us out to Cerra Fuya Fuya (13,986') for our next training hike. We'll check back as soon as we can! Thanks to Dawn Kim for the photos in this post!

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Ecuador Seminar: Wittmier & Team Arrive in Quito, Tour Historic Town

January 12, 2022

Posted by: Dustin Wittmier, Avery Parrinello

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 9,350'

Hello,

The remainder of the group arrived yesterday, on time and COVID free. This morning we all met and headed out for a tour of Quito and La Mitad del Mundo. We learned quite a bit of Ecuadorian history and had a chance to get our bearings in the second largest city in Ecuador. More importantly, one member of the team was able to balance a raw egg on the head of a nail. There is now a shiny certificate that comes with this achievement as compared to when it just came with lifelong bragging rights.

With our first day at altitude under our belt we are headed to Rucu Pichincha tomorrow for another day of acclimatization. Everyone is looking forward to getting the legs and lungs working!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

Denali Expedition: King & Team Take Weather Day at 14,000 Camp

June 8, 2021

Posted by: Mike King, Alex Halliday, Abby Westling

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Tuesday, June 8, 2021 - 2:52 pm PT

The weather front that was forecasted finally arrived in camp last night. While the winds and snow were light the weather above 14,000' Camp looked foreboding. We are planning on a move to 17,000' camp on Thursday unless the weather breaks in the morning. With the last push up in sight the team is busy playing cards, engaged in spirited debates on various issues and enjoying walking around camp meeting other climbers.

Mike Fortier would like to wish his wife a happy birthday!

RMI Guide Mike King

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Most Popular Entries

Know Snow - Getting Under Winter’s Blanket

Kilimanjaro: Tucker & Team Celebration Time

Mt. Elbrus: Justman & Team Explore Moscow

Aconcagua: Nugent & Team Rest Day at Basecamp

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Aconcagua: Justman & Team Camp 2 Rest Day Gives Time for Reflection

On The Map

Kilimanjaro: Teams Last Day on Kilimanjaro

On The Map

Mexico: SUMMIT!

Team Completes Frist Day of Acclimatization Hikes in Ecuador

Ecuador Seminar: Wittmier & Team Arrive in Quito, Tour Historic Town

Denali Expedition: King & Team Take Weather Day at 14,000 Camp

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