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Posted by: Jake Beren, Leon Davis, Zeb Blais
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
It has been a whirlwind few hours for the team, but we are all safe and sound in Mendoza, about to enjoy the comfort of a hot shower, actual bed and a celebratory meal. These things are certainly fine, but it will be tough to beat the meat cooked by our friends the herreros under the stars. I guess we'll just have to take it as it comes.
It sure has been a great trip with an awesome team. Thanks to the squad and everyone's people back home for letting them out for the holidays!
RMI Guides Jake Beren, Leon Davis & Zeb Blais
A calm and warm night gaveway to another gorgeous morning here at Base Camp. After breakfast we shouldered our packs and set out. The first stretch of walking brought us through a series of steep valleys and rolls just above Elbrus Base Camp that are blanketed in lush green grass and wildflowers. Picking our way amongst the giant protrusions of volcanic rock from the mountain's formation we made our way higher, leaving the vegetation behind and entering the alpine zone of rock and dirt.
By midday we reached our goal for the day - a flat plateau at just over 11,000' below the morraine leading to Camp 1. There we unloaded our packs and cached our gear amongst the rocks. This strategy of caching our gear higher on the mountain and then descending back to camp serves a twofold purpose: it allows us to move a portion of our gear ahead of us, making packs lighter tomorrow when we move camp, and also gives us a jumpstart on acclimatization by exposing our bodies to a higher altitude before descending back lower to recover. This strategy of "climb high, sleep low" is an important part of any climbing expedition to high altitudes and will greatly benefit us tomorrow when we move to Camp 1.
After caching our gear and resting for a bit in the sun, we retraced our steps back to Base Camp, reaching our tents just before a small sprinkling of afternoon rain swept through the valley. Thankfully the rain blew through and the evening is beautiful. We have just wrapped up dinner and are getting ready to turn in for the night. The setting sun has lit up Elbrus' west side in a pink alpenglow as well as the small clouds hanging near the summit. It is a gorgeous night to be out in the mountains.
We will check in tomorrow after moving up to Camp 1.
Peter Whittaker gets blown around on the summit of Mount Rainier.
Hi this is Seth checking in from Everest Base Camp. Today the group enjoyed a rest day at camp. We are all engaged in eating, drinking, card-playing, Scrabble-playing and general relaxing. It's fun to have everyone in the same place at the same time. The guides spent the morning hashing out the strategy for the remaining two acclimatization rotations proir to our summit bids. The goal is to have everyone within a day of each other when it comes time for the final push. It's no small task getting everyone on the same page as there are the inevitable minor illnesses that keep people hanging back for a day or two here and there. Our group is now set to start the next acclimatization round all within our prefered window. But for right now it's all about the R & R.
The real heroes of our expedition were busy working today. The Sherpa team carried the last of the supplies and most of our oxygen bottles to Camp Two and now we're all set to use that camp on our next rotation. I'm personally looking forward to heading up the mountain the day after tomorrow. I haven't yet been to Camp Two this year and I am looking forward to spending several nights there this coming week. Last year Dave Hahn and I found several old oxygen bottles from the 70's. I will use some of my down time there to explore the Western Cwm and see what artifacts I can turn up.
That's all for now. Wish us luck on our upcoming efforts on the mountain.
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Zeb Blais, Mike King
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'
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Hey, this is Dave Hahn calling from 17,200 feet on Mount McKinley. We made it to High Camp. Huge day, beautiful day, great weather. One of the nice things that started off the day for us was we got to talk to Mike King. He and Will and Shawn had made it to Basecamp by this morning and they were looking to get picked up within a half an hour of our conversation. They reported good conditions down there and they had a smooth exit from the mountain. We were very happy to hear that. And a big happy birthday to Mike King and a thank you for all that hard work. We set in with our hard work right after that. It did take a long time to get up here to 17,200' because we had so much snow on the Headwall.
If tomorrow is a decent day, we're going try for the summit. And that's it for tonight. Talk to you soon.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
RMI Guide Dave Hahn calls in from 17,200 ft on McKinley.
On The Map
Lots of energy and positive thoughts from the other side of the world. Thinking of you guys today. Be safe and crush it!
Posted by: Kelsey on 7/13/2013 at 11:02 pm
Rock on! Hoping for good weather and safe climbing! ‘Welcome to the City Bra’
Posted by: Joe Cole on 7/13/2013 at 9:37 pm
We did it!
The whole team managed to stand on the highest point in Europe this morning. Everyone did a fantastic job of taking care of themselves and pushed hard in the thin air. It was a beautiful day for sure, in fact it was the nicest summit on Elbrus I've had. Not too cold and just the slightest breeze.
We spent about a half hour on top then quickly descended all the way back to the Barrels. After a quick lunch, we packed up and made our way back down to Cheget to our hotel where everyone ran for the first shower in days.
The team is doing great and are looking forward to some much earned sleep.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and the summiteers
On The Map
Congrats guys, Reading about your climb was amazing. I can’t wait to start climbing those higher peaks. And Casey, I’m excited to meet up with you and Syd. Congrats again on the climb.
Posted by: Jay on 7/18/2013 at 9:53 pm
Congrats Larry and team!! Great job and the summit pic is awesome as well. Here’s hoping your already down safely.
Posted by: Paul Kinneberg on 7/14/2013 at 11:56 am
Our team is back in Quito, safe and sound after a successful and challenging Cotopaxi summit today. The weather looked perfect when we woke before midnight but that didn't last long, as a storm began to brew as we were climbing. Most of the climb, we were in the clouds with light precipitation and moderate winds. It never got bad enough to turn around; instead, it just made our climbing harder. We didn't need any help making the route harder, as we encountered ladders spanning crevasses, steep slopes, and open crevasses, in addition to the extreme altitude that is always present on Cotopaxi.
All in all, we had a fun and safe climb. We were climbing for more than 12 hours, so we're all bushed. Hopefully showers and a quick nap will rejuvenate everyone so that we can enjoy our celebration dinner tonight in Quito. It's been great spending the past 10 days in Ecuador with our team. We enjoyed a ton of different activities, both cultural and adventurous. Thanks team, for being an integral part of a great trip.
Hasta la próxima montaña,
Adios.
...stay tuned for the Cotopaxi Express trip's blog, starting this weekend!
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Looks intense! Awesome job guys!
Posted by: Kim on 6/28/2013 at 8:13 am
Congrats!! Look at that snow!
Posted by: Jan on 6/27/2013 at 6:05 pm
We departed the Shira Plateau this morning in a light mist. Last night brought significant precipitation and muddied the trails a bit. However, the night rain afforded us a beautiful view of the mountain and its new snow. The day's traverse provided great views of the landscape and curious vegetation. About five hours from the onset, we walked down through rolling fog to our camp nestled underneath the Barranco Wall. Spirits are high and bellies are full. Tomorrow, we wake up early to traverse beneath the Southern Breach Wall.
Stay tuned,
RMI Climber Dan C.
On The Map
Our time in the Alaska Range finished wrapped up just a couple of days ago. We had an extra 2 bonus days in the mountains. Our fly off date was set, but the weather determines our true fly off date. The snow began to fall the night before our scheduled departure date, it kept snowing for the following 2 days. Veteran climbers stated that this had been one of the biggest snowstorms, at Base Camp, that they could remember in the past
7 years. Over 3 ft of snow fell in a little more than a 36 hr period. We woke up on Saturday morning to crystal clear skies, soon the planes began to fill the skies. Everyone at base camp looking for a flight out spent the previous evening stomping out the run way for the planes. Still, when the planes landed it was obvious how deep the snow was for the planes. I think the pilots were getting faceshots, as the snow was hitting the windshields of the planes. We all arrived back in Talkeetna in the early afternoon, on Saturday.
The week consisted of lots of information being uploaded and downloaded to a very enthusiastic group of climbers. Us guides were very impressed with how much information this group of climbers soaked up. Topics covered a wide variety of mountain tactics, how to simply live comfortably in an environment that was cold and snowy, how to set up a camp, crevasse rescue, snow and ice anchors, climber responsibilities, avalanches and rescue, ice climbing and the list continues.
Everyone had a great time experiencing the Alaska range. Ideas have already been hatched for future trips to visit Little Switzerland, the Ruth Gorge or other objectives around the base camp area, from members of this group. Climbing around the Kahiltna base camp area offers a great experience for your first time to Alaska. Hopefully we will see you up here soon.
Everyone is on their way home now but memories will last a long time of this very special place.
Thanks again from Jason, Andres, Anne Gilbert and RMI
Posted by: Dustin Wittmier, Dominic Cifelli, Calvin Jiricko, Bailey Servais, Rosie Hust, Imogen Von Mertens, CJ Rogers
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,700'
RMI Guides Dustin Wittmier and Dominic Cifelli led their Four Day teams May 15 - 18, on an early alpine start from Camp Muir this morning. Unfortunately, high winds forced the teams to turn around at 10,600 feet. Everyone returned safely to Camp Muir. They plan to begin their descent at 9:30 a.m. PT and are expected to arrive back at Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford by early afternoon.
So happy for your safe journey and for this safe return. It is just amazing!!! Gives me goose bumps…..not just the temperature but the feat by all!!!
See you this summer, Dawn. Be safe.
Ann
Posted by: ann on 1/5/2013 at 6:54 pm
CONGRATULATIONS, Rockacongua!! Knew you guys would crush it!
Posted by: Madhu on 1/5/2013 at 3:39 pm
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