Saturday, July 6, 2013
14 K at last! But we had to fight our way up here, it didn't come easy.
Back down at 11,000 ft in the early hours of the day, it looked as though we might get decent weather. At least, if one was looking up at the West Buttress, there was good visibility and not much sign of wind, if one turned and looked West, however, there was still a massive flow of cloud, as there had been all week, often overflowing and engulfing camp.
We ate breakfast and packed, it seemed especially difficult to get going after having become so deeply dug in for the best part of a week, but we managed. Naturally, as we roped up and and got ready to walk, the clouds swept in and the wind came up. We came full on into strong, steady winds as we topped motorcycle hill and it seemed we found even stronger winds at the crest of squirrel hill. All of this was while inside a big white freezing cloud, so we were getting rimed up and frosty as we leaned straight into the storm to climb higher. On the polo field, we still had wind but we were getting occasional sun breaks. Windy Corner lived up to its name today. Getting past it was the key battle of the day, but we knew if we could pass the corner we could leave the wind and cloud behind. Sure enough, as we reached our cache from yesterday, we'd found a calm and sunny glacier. It took another ninety minutes to get into "Genet Basin" which we reached at 3:30 PM. We were happy to rejoin the teams we'd shared 11 camp with. There were plenty of empty camp sites with good walls, so building our nest at 14,200 ft was made slightly easier. The team was a little weary after pushing through such harsh conditions, but all were excited to be back in the game, to have new and awesome views and to have beat the forecasted "next storm". Yes, that is right, we are in for another one. The western sky was full of wind sculpted wave clouds, as if a fleet of flying saucers were attacking Mount Foraker. By the time we finished dinner, Denali was cloud capped as well and the snow was starting to fall at 14,200.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Yea, ravens at 13,000 ft?!? Those must be some bad ass ravens
Posted by: Fred on 7/7/2013 at 5:54 pm
Erik Nelson’s uncle and aunt here, following the journey eagerly. Proud, Praying, Positive! The Mariners’ Cove crabbing operation has been fun and successful. Hoping the same for your adventure, Erik and team.
Posted by: Jay and Carol Sigafoos on 7/7/2013 at 2:31 pm
Hello RMI followers. This is JJ Justman with the first Mount Elbrus team. Today was an exciting day as we left the tiny town of Azau. After two tram rides, we arrived at the Garabashi Hut, also known as "The Barrels." We are currently at 12,000 feet. The team is enjoying the thin air. We would like to convince you that we are roughing it. However, life up here has some pretty darn nice creature comforts: French-pressed coffee and a full delicatessen, some comfy beds to name a few. It is important to relax and ease into the altitude. That's exactly what we need to do. We're playing card games and listening to electronic dance music, it's thumping in the background as I speak. I'm actually, myself, gonna currently watch culinary video podcast to get some new ideas for my mountain cuisine. We want to say hello to all the friends and family following along. The team is doing just fantastic, having a lot of fun. We will keep on informing you of how we're doing up here, but life is pretty darn nice. Take care for now.
RMI Guide JJ Justman
RMI Guide JJ Justman calls in from the Garabashi Hut.
The Ecuador Volcanoes climbing (and all of our luggage) has arrived in Ecuador! Everyone arrived in the country by early this morning and hit the ground running. We spent the bulk of the day on an interesting and educational tour of colonial Quito, visiting the Presidential Palace, the Basilica, and various other points of interest in southern Quito, also known as Old Town Quito. Our local city guide, Jorge, is extremely knowledgeable and happy to share the wealth of information he has about the history, culture, politics, and religion of Ecuador. As always, it's a pleasure to work with Jorge.
After a typical Ecuadorian lunch of empanadas, locro de queso (potato soup with cheese & avocado), and fritada (fried pork with corn and plantains), we headed to the Equator. We visited an ethnographic museum and stood straddling the Equator, with a foot in each hemisphere (see photo).
We're all still a little weary from a long travel day to get here, and I'm sure everyone will sleep well tonight. Tomorrow we had head out on our first acclimatization hike. We'll be in touch tomorrow to let you know how it goes.
Cheers,
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Today we visited Tarangire National Park, home to more elephants per square mile than any place on earth. No luck with the leopard or cheetah today, but we did see plenty of lions and elephants. We even managed to rescue another party who got their 4x4 stuck in the river. We'll finish the trip off with one last night here in Africa listening to the sounds of nature in a tented camp that sits along the Tarangire River. The last three days have been a great way to relax after all the effort to climb Kili and everyone has had a great time. Tomorrow we'll head back to Arusha and catch our long flights home.
Thanks for following!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
Day 2 greeted us with clear skies and beautiful views of the upper mountain. The day starts with "morning tea" delivered to our tents at 6:30 followed by a medium tub of warm washing water. The team did great getting ready and we made it out of camp right at 8 am. Today is one of the shorter legs being just under three miles all total, however we ascended a little over 2,000' getting to camp. We stopped about half way for the nice sit-down lunch that our staff had ran ahead and prepared. Clearly we are being spoiled! But this is vacation after all.
It took a little over six hours to get to Camp 2. Its called Shira Camp because it sits atop the massive Shira Plateau at just over 12,200' and overlooks the Great Rift Valley below.
Everyone is doing well and are looking forward to a good night's sleep.
Hakuna matata!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
Larry S - Glad the climb is going so well. Continued good wishes to you and the team. Mom
Posted by: Gerri Seaton on 2/14/2013 at 8:33 am
Larry—your call was very clear from up on the Mt. The flowers are beautiful, you made my day and once again you are my champion! A safe journey to you and all.
Deb
13,000! That's our sleeping elevation tonight at the Altzimoni hut. We started the day with the best breakfast in Mexico at the Mission Tlaxcala. Then we drove back to the west and around Ixta, with a few pit stops along the way. Once we reached the town of Amecameca we loaded up on water and drove to the Altzimoni hut. After getting settled the group headed out for a light hike. After that we made dinner and now everyone is tucked in their bunks and getting ready to move to high camp tomorrow. We will check back in from there.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
Hi!! We are so excited for you.I am glad I finally found your blog. We love you and pray for you and the team everyday. Especially at night wondering if you are warm.
All our love,
Mom&Dad;
This is Seth again checking in from Camp Muir. After a blustery and cold day yesterday we have been enjoying the warm and calm conditions today.
We began our day with breakfast at 7 and by 8:30 we were heading out onto the Cowlitz Glacier. We then found an awesome set of crevasses for practicing crevasse rescue. Everyone was able to alternately practice arresting a fallen climber, setting up a pulley system and descending into a crevasse. We also had a backup rope set up where we could practice belaying techniques.
After the rescue practice everyone was still feeling good so we lowered folks back into the crevasse and had them ice-climb back out.
It was a great day of training and with any luck tomorrow we'll do the real thing and climb the mountain. We'll check in again in the morning.
Well today we began our day a little earlier than usual. We elected to go for a little glacier tour this morning and with how hot its been during the day the cool temps felt nice. We went to the base of Annie's Ridge and had a little glaciology talk from a rad location. On the walk back we saw a big ice fall release on Mt. Foraker which was lovely, they are always impressive no matter how many times you see them.
We chilled out this afternoon hiding from the afternoon sun. We regrouped for a crevasse rescue station. Everyone is sending and building mechanical advantage systems to haul climbers skyward. We are also organizing our gear for a move tomorrow up towards Kahiltna Dome which sits at 12,525'. If the weather plays nice, hopefully we will be back in 4 days.
RMI Guide Jason Thompson
Today was a bit of a groundhog day, though if anything, the weather made itself pretty clear as far as its intentions. Intermittently gusty winds and consistent snow made it an easy day to hang in the tents reading, watching movies, playing cards, and sawing logs. We're currently cooking a dinner of a curried rice and miso soup. We'll welcome the sleeping bags for another good night of sleep and see what tomorrow brings.
Hello from Mexico City,
Tonight the team arrived, all with the same number of bags they left the states with and ready to go. We had a great intro dinner at a classic Centro Historico restaurant and retired to our rooms to get a good night's sleep before leaving the city tomorrow. Off to a good start down here and we'll check in from La Malinche tomorrow.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
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Yea, ravens at 13,000 ft?!? Those must be some bad ass ravens
Posted by: Fred on 7/7/2013 at 5:54 pm
Erik Nelson’s uncle and aunt here, following the journey eagerly. Proud, Praying, Positive! The Mariners’ Cove crabbing operation has been fun and successful. Hoping the same for your adventure, Erik and team.
Posted by: Jay and Carol Sigafoos on 7/7/2013 at 2:31 pm
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