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At low camp, we woke to another thoroughly cloudy day. But it wasn't as cold as yesterday and there wasn't any wind up above that we could detect. We ate our usual late breakfast and checked in with Vinson Basecamp via the radio to hear the latest forecast (the same folks at Union Glacier who try to find weather windows for the Ilyushin also take a stab at mountain weather predictions). The forecast was just plain good. Clouds diminishing, no significant winds. We packed up low camp and headed for high camp. It was 2 PM by the time we were roped up and walking toward the fixed lines. We climbed in a murky world of cloud, between murky layers of other clouds down low and up high. But we made good and steady progress, reaching high camp at 12,300 ft by 8:30 PM. We worked to get a camp built and a kitchen going. At 10 PM we got our first sunshine of the day, which, thankfully kept on beaming down through clearing skies to make dinner and going to bed a lot easier. Tomorrow could be our big day... Depending, of course on how the weather shapes up and how the climbing team looks at breakfast. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

A nice 10 mile plus or minus hike from Chu Kung today. Not quite sure how there can be so much uphill on a descent, who built these trails anyway? Happy to be back here in Namche at the Campo de Base tea house. If you ever are in the area, this is the place to stay. Very friendly staff, comfortable rooms and Hot Hot showers! We saw a couple of Everest teams on the way today. We had a nice chat with some old friends and made plans for future meetings at Basecamp. We will check out of the park in the morning and finalize our permits regarding the Island Peak climb. The infrastructure is a bit crude but it is so important to keep trying to have an eye on this truly amazing part of the world. The sky was a bit hazy today but a nice temperature for the trek out. A few of the hillsides had a large number of rhododendron trees flowering, it is so nice to be back in the living zone of the Earth's dirt. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map

The Mt. Rainier Four Day Summit Climbs led by Casey Grom & JJ Justman made the summit today in beautiful weather. They began their descent at 7:35 a.m. Congratulations!

Did I say Antarctica wasn't cold? Well, I was just kidding. Antarctica, especially high up with a stiff wind, is really, really, really cold. Our day today started reasonably enough, with a bright sun high in the sky and reasonable temperatures for walking. The team moved well out of High Camp along the seemingly endless glacial valley leading toward Vinson's summit. About 2 hours into the journey, Vinson decided to give us a little test. The wind began to pick up, and suddenly we could all feel the frigid cold biting at any exposed skin and dropping our core temperatures degree by degree. Time to layer up. In moments, we all donned our custom Peak XV Antarctica down jackets and pants, shutting the wind and cold out, at least somewhat. But, it gets tricky in situations like this. The thick down insulates well, and keeps you warm and toasty. But, you still have to move uphill, and that generates heat. Too much heat, and you start to sweat. Sweat out your baselayers, and you're going to get cold sooner or later. So, climbing in these situations is an exercise in zipper running, hat pulling, and sleeve pushing; it is a constant battle to maintain that thermal equilibrium, right on the line between too cold and too hot. With that obstacle added to our climb, we kept moving, everyone doing well and chugging right along. Before long, the route made a sharp right-hand turn, and began climbing steeply toward the summit ridge. And, now, Vinson decided to show us what she could do. The temperature had dropped as we ascended, to about -30 degrees C on the summit ridge, and then the wind really picked up. We estimate about 30 miles per hour fairly consistently...In other words, enough wind and cold to make it the coldest day I've ever experienced on any mountain, anywhere. And, Ed Viesturs, who's got a handful of cold mountains under his belt, agreed that it was the coldest summit day in his memory. That's cold. We were close now, though, and kept pushing onward, trying to check cheeks, noses, ears, etc., for frostnip - which can come on quickly in such conditions. Along with the wind, Vinson's final curveball was the largely-moderate terrain of the lower mountain finally transitioned to a steeper, more exposed ridge for the final push. But, it was manageable, and soon we were all celebrating and shivering on top of Antarctica. I've been fortunate enough to travel to some unique places and mountains over the years, but must admit that Antarctica, and Mount Vinson, is one of the most spectacular. To gaze out from the summit at the jagged peaks of the Ellsworth Mountains, which eventually yield and give way to a vast sea of glacier, is simply beyond words. We spent a few minutes on top, taking pictures, congratulating one another, and of course pulling out the 1966 Alaska Flag for it's final foray on the summit of Vinson. And, then, it was time to go. It's too easy to linger on such summits, and in the abusive cold and wind, we needed to get down fast. Everyone moved well downhill, and we're all now in our tents, enjoying the warmth of a sunny tent and a full belly. Sleep will come quickly tonight, and will be well earned by all. Tomorrow...well, there's still work to be done. All our gear needs to somehow make its way from High Camp down the fixed lines and all the way to Vinson Basecamp. We'll sleep well, and work hard tomorrow. And, yes, in case I ever forget, Antarctica is COLD!! -Jake Norton

Wednesday, June 27, 2024 - 9:58 pm PT

Still in a holding pattern at 17,000 ft. There were obvious strong winds blowing on our climbing route first thing today. We watched and waited for calming.  It did die down a little at midday -too late for climbing- but then the winds roared back to life in the afternoon.  We napped, read and generally passed the time.  We can walk about a hundred feet from camp to a tremendous view of half of Alaska. The team is hanging in and hoping for a shot.

Best,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Good evening readers,

Today we had a casual morning at Everest Base Camp, rolling into the dining tent for breakfast at 8:30am. After a deliciously filling breakfast, we grabbed some jackets and headed out onto the glacier. We moved our way down loose rock to the ice where it flattened out. We weaved around the ice and came upon some tracks in the snow. First thought was one of the puppers followed us up. But on closer examination they were cat tracks...snow leopard to be exact. What a sight the tracks of a snow leopard! Now if only we could see one. We found a nice ice wave to set up an obstacle course for the team to practice their climbing skills. They ascended one rope and then descended the other. These skills will be needed to climb Lobuche. The rest of the afternoon we repacked our duffles and relaxed for a big day tomorrow. The snow pitter pattered most of the afternoon, once again creating a fresh blanket of snow through camp. With water bottles filled with hot water to warm our sleeping bags we are ready for bed.

Have a good day all back home,

RMI Guides Hannah, Abby, and Team

Thursday, January 19, 2023 - 7:24 pm PT

After a successful climb, the team enjoyed a well-deserved rest day in the colorful city of Puebla.

Taking to the streets for a walking tour, we explored the rich history of the city, learning about Cinco de Mayo and the folklore of the mountains we climb. We also discovered local markets full of art, produce and local specialty food like the Cemitas, a sandwich- these ones larger than your head, named after the sesame seeds on the bread.

It wouldn't have been a complete trip to Puebla without trying all different types of mole. Some of the team enjoyed a flight of five types of mole at dinner tonight! Each tasting much different than the last. 

Overall, everyone took advantage of the day to rest and explore. Our sights are set on Pico de Orizaba as we leave Puebla tomorrow morning. 

RMI Guide Abby Westling

The Four and Five Day Mt. Rainier Summit Climbs led by Eric Frank and Solveig Waterfall, respectively, reached the summit this morning. Eric reported beautiful weather, no wind and the cloud deck below Paradise. The teams ventured to Columbia Crest and enjoyed the summit views before they began their descent at 8 a.m. RMI Guides Eric Frank and Solveig Waterfall

Greetings from the Dik Dik Hotel in Arusha, Tanzania. Today was our fist full day together as a team. We started the day with a leisurely breakfast, a discussion of the trip itinerary and then a gear check. After lunch most of the team went into Arusha to do some shopping and sight seeing. Now we have finished dinner and are getting ready for an early departure for Kilimanjaro. We'll check in again from our first camp tomorrow. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

Seth Waterfall and the Expedition Skills Seminar – Muir were on the summit early this morning. After a week of hard work they were awarded with clear views and light winds. The teams are back at Camp Muir and packing up for their descent to Paradise.