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Most Popular Entries


Ecuador Seminar: Go With the Flow

Yesterday we drove five hours south of Quito to Ecuador's highest mountain, Chimborazo. News from other local guides provided mixed information. We heard there was a bit of new snow on the route which contrary to popular belief actually makes the route safer. What we found was nothing of the sort. For many years the north side of Chimborazo has been melting making rockfall an increasing concern. Having a bad gut feeling I could not ignore, I spoke with the other guides and we decided climbing up with ten other climbers ahead of us was too risky on a route with substantial rock fall hazard. During the night two team members began having diarrhea and a guide threw up. I took this as a sign and began to reevaluate the situation. Over breakfast the guides laid out an alternative mountain that we felt would have a much better chance of success given the teams health and über challenging route on Chimborazo. A discussion was held and a difficult but good decision was made to abandon Chimborazo and go to Illiniza Sur. This will be a more technically challenging but safer and shorter climb. We are all a bit bummed to not be giving our main objective a shot but also psyched we are all still together. We leave the hostel tonight at eleven and will send word of the climb tomorrow. Stay tuned. RMI Guide Adam Knoff
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We are all watching your precarious adventures biting our nails from the coffee shop in Los Angeles. Worried sick that Clark will get a blister or lose his beauty sleep (he can’t afford to!). He said he was tired of walking the dog everyday but don’t you think this is a bit extreme, Clark?
Wishing you all safe passage home!
XO, from all of us here at sea level

Posted by: Ted Craig CJ on 1/16/2013 at 3:29 pm

Sorry to hear about the hardships but I had to go back to work today and that’s no fun either…haha I hope everyone feels better and you can all end the trip on a high note.

Posted by: Albert on 1/15/2013 at 3:33 pm


Aconcagua: Justman - Guide & Chef Makes Pizza for the Team at Camp 1

Rest day at Aconcagua Camp One means only one thing. Pizza making day! You may be wondering, "How do you make pizzas at 16,500 feet"? Sorry, it's an RMI Guide secret. Today our team awoke to a fresh blanket of snow covering the entire mountain. It is a beautiful day to stay put and recover here in camp. Everyone is doing very well and we are feeling healthy and strong. The remainder of the day will see some of us playing cards, reading books and watching movies. Yes, it's rough living up here. RMI Guide JJ Justman

On The Map

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We’re all fine at home. We’re pulling for you Jim and Todd. Love you, mother

Posted by: Amy on 1/13/2013 at 9:46 am


Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team at 14,000’

Hello everyone from the 14,000' camp on Denali. We're taking a rest day today, in order to acclimate and get strong for our forays up higher on the mountain. After a breakfast involving lots of coffee and the universal favorite--bacon, we spent some time finishing off our snow walls at camp. The rest of the day was spent preparing gear for caching up high on the mountain tomorrow, as well as lounging around, reading, and eating. We're planning to carry supplies up high on the West Buttress tomorrow, in preparation for our move to high camp and subsequent summit bid. We'll be in touch again soon. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

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Rich, thinking of you every moment. Go get ‘em.  XO

Posted by: Christina Doren on 5/21/2012 at 4:30 pm

Hi Mike M!!  Still rooting for you….and all your team!!  Following your trek on the blog!  Kick butt and take names!!  Can’t wait to see the view from the top!

Posted by: Annette on 5/21/2012 at 2:12 pm


Ecuador: Team Reflects on Climb and Starts to Plan Next Adventure

Our climbing team is rested and well-fed, and we’re all back in Quito enjoying some free time as I right this last dispatch for our trip. We had a great trip, jam-packed with activities during the past week. In addition to summiting 3 high peaks in 4 days, we had time to enjoy a great hacienda on the flanks of Cotopaxi, some sightseeing in Quito, as well as enjoying each others’ company. We’re already starting to plan the next climbing trip! We’ll have a celebration dinner in Quito tonight, and then we’ll head our separate directions…most of us are heading home, but two of the climbers are headed to Mendoza, Argentina tomorrow to begin a RMI expedition on Aconcagua. Be sure to check their dispatches to follow how they are doing! Hasta la próxima montaña… RMI Guide Mike Walter
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Hi Seth:

Johnny and I were close to Kotapaxi a few years ago—have fun.

Love,  Brigid

Posted by: Brigid on 1/30/2011 at 1:56 pm

What a beautiful picture.  Great job to the team.  Love to my brother, Bob.  See you soon!

Posted by: K Deeds on 1/28/2011 at 12:29 pm


Second Summit Team Back Safe at Basceamp

I don't think I've ever seen an Everest season end so early or so abruptly. It began snowing hard at basecamp at around 6 AM and that has continued without pause for the entire day. Cyclone 02B out of the Bay of Bengal is the likely culprit. That was the same "depression" that prompted my summit squad to speed up our attempt, and in fact to go a day earlier than we'd originally planned. That all worked out, just barely, but I must admit that as we walked down the Western Cwm early yesterday morning under temporarily clear skies, I wondered what all the rush had been for. No wonder anymore. This is a big storm and our forecasts say it hasn't actually arrived yet... the whole cyclone may track right over Everest in the next few days. Due to the hard and smart work of our Sherpa team, we are sitting pretty. They managed- during our summit push- to take down every non-essential piece of gear from the Lhotse Face to the Khumbu Icefall. After the summit, when Seth, Melissa, Kent and I thought we had a big chore in getting our tired, coughing bodies down to ABC for the night, the Sherpas we'd gone to the summit with began tearing down Camp IV and putting it on their backs. They put in a huge, and with the value of hindsight, essential contribution in getting everything off the South Col before the bigger storm. This allowed our entire team, members and Sherpas alike, to be off the mountain and safely in basecamp by yesterday afternoon. According to Lam Babu and Tendi, just a handful of loads remain at ABC. While in logistical terms, this means that the expedition isn't quite finished and some of the guys will have to brave the Icefall for a final roundtrip, in the greater scheme of things... as I say, we are sitting pretty. If it intends to snow and snow and snow, then the Western Cwm could get extremely hazardous from an avalanche perspective. It is far better to have a team at the bottom of the mountain waiting until things are safe enough to go up rather than to have a team halfway up the mountain waiting until things are safe enough to come down. This doesn't mean that we aren't worried and concerned for our friends on neighboring teams who were caught in a less advantageous position. But yesterday evening, we were simply elated to be all in one safe place ourselves and to be newly successful. As we finished up dinner, happily comparing notes on the trip's two summit days, it was clear that the Sherpa dining tent next door was the more happening venue. The cheers were getting louder and louder, the singing and stomping of feet more enthusiastic. One by one, the team members found excuses to leave the dull tent and flee to the festive one. Since I'd put in about three hard days at altitude without significant sleep, I snuck past what was surely the best party in the entire valley and made for my own little hovel of a sleeping tent. I was not bothered in the least to hear the celebration go on for hours as I lay comfortably dozing in the dark. Nobody seemed the worse for wear in the morning as we huddled near a propane heater for our snowy breakfast. Not a lot got done today as we mostly took shelter and tried to catch up on food and drink. Linden Mallory, our hardworking basecamp manager, kept plenty busy with inventories and packing lists. The afternoon showing of "The Bourne Identity" on laptop had the dining tent jam-packed and silent. If the entire team is ready for beaches and jets and home, one couldn't quite see that today. We'll pack up and get walking soon enough. The gang is just happy to be together... and very aware that, while a cyclone spins overhead, none of the other teams that left BC so urgently in recent days are flying out of the Khumbu Valley.
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Mexico’s Volcanoes: Wedel & Team Reach Summit of Ixta

Wednesday, February 26, 2025 - 6:04 am PT

 

RMI Guide Jess Wedel checked in at 6:04 am PT today to let us know the whole team was on the summit of Ixtaccihuatl at 17,340'.  They will send a blog later today once they descend to the trailhead and make their way to Puebla.  

Way to go team! Congrats!

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Kilimanjaro: Okita & Team Packed and Ready to hit the trail

A painless 1 1/2 hr drive has brought us to the start of our climb, the Machame Gate. Registration with the Park Service is dealt with before we venture into the rain forest. The lush farms and vegetation here is a result of the clouds of moisture that hang at this elevation. We'll get above this climate zone at our first camp, the Machame Camp, at 10,000'.

We have met some of the mountain staff that will help us get to the top as pleasantly as possible. Many of them are friends from past trips, including Naimen, the head of our local guides staff. Our wait staff - yes, we have waiters - will keep the food chef Benson creates coming our way to keep our energy levels up. Alfred leads this team, and has been with me on every trip I've done. 

We've devoured part of the sack lunches our outfitter had provided us and are now ready to rock. 

Catch up with you at the next camp! 

RMI Guide Brent Okita

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Alaska: Elias & Team Successfully Climb Moose’s Tooth

And we flew out! We got in a day early, and flew out a day early too, as to secure our exit off the glacier with the great weather we had: the runway at the Root Canal Glacier is no major airport where to secure a flight under the action of the elements. The trip ran very smoothly, and we're happy to have tackled this ultra classic line, "Ham and Eggs" up the Moose's Tooth, which is without a doubt, a haunting peak in the Alaska Range. Vanessa and Taylor trained the necessary technical skills not only to overcome the difficulties of the route, but to shine for the hours on end that climbing 3,000ft of steep ice, snow and mixed terrain entails in the remoteness of this environment. Now the team has parted ways, and we feel proud and accomplished. Regards from Anchorage! RMI Guide Elías de Andrés Martos
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Sleep Recovery for Athletes

In a busy world of managing work schedules, family, and training, sleep is often the first thing to suffer. As we pack more and more into our day, we try to get away with less and less sleep. While it’s difficult to manage schedules and sometimes a last minute crunch demands heading to bed late for a few nights, athletic gains from your training are a sum of your training load and your recovery from that load. This means that simply putting in the training hours and effort are not enough; you need to give your body the time and ability to recover from those efforts as well. Additionally, studies of sleep and performance have shown a significant cognitive effect from continual sleep “debt” or sleep restriction. This all leads to the conclusion that you need to hold your sleep time just as sacrosanct in your schedule as you do your training time. If you can stick to this, you will find yourself much more productive with your waking hours as well! To make sure that you are giving your body the recovery it needs from your training load, studies suggest you follow several principles:

Set a consistent sleep schedule: To get quality sleep and maximize your recovery, it’s important to stick to a consistent schedule. Try to head to bed at each night and wake up at the same time. Your body develops a rhythm to sleep, and when your schedule is altered it can make it more difficult to fall asleep, or the sleep you get to be more fitful. Similarly, try to match your sleep schedule to your circadian rhythm. If you are a night owl, embrace it. Heading to bed at 1 am, and trying to wake at 5 am for a pre-work workout is a recipe for sleep deprivation. Recognize your circadian tendencies and try to design your schedule around them to accommodate.

Create a constructive sleep environment: Light pollution and excess noise can prevent you from entering the deepest stages of sleep, in which the majority of recovery from your training load occurs. Consider using fans or white noise machines to drown out excess noise, and consider blackout curtains to create an environment for truly restorative sleep.

Disengage from your screens half an hour before bed: Try to put your screens down at least a half hour before you head to bed. That includes your phone, Ipads, kindles, and televisions. All of the electronics in our lives create stimulation that can make it difficult to fall asleep, keeping us up longer and upsetting our rhythm.

Get 8 hours of sleep: Studies show that while many of us may think that we can operate on less, 8 hours of sleep is the magic number to maximize recovery in athletes. This number creeps up a few hours for teenagers and younger children. While a single night of less sleep will probably not affect your training appreciably, consistently shorting yourself on sleep will reduce your recovery, and reduce the efficacy of your training.

Try a nap! In studies of elite athletes’ recovery, a half hour nap between 2 and 4 pm was shown to dramatically improve recovery. Furthermore, a cup of coffee consumed before that nap helped athletes to wake from it alert and ready to go. While it may not be practical for everyone’s schedule, see if you can sneak in a quick catnap; it may be the performance boost you’ve been looking for!

The Canadian Sport for Life organization has published a detailed explanation of sleep studies as they pertain to long-term athlete development. Find it here: http://canadiansportforlife.ca/sites/default/files/resources/Sleep_Recovery_Jan2013_EN_web.pdf

_____

Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!

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Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Reach 17,200’ Camp

June 4, 2014 - 12:53 am PT The winds have finally abated now that we're in our tents here at 17,200 ft Camp. For much of the day we we're climbing head on into the breeze, making for an uncomfortable climb to camp. But we're psyched now. Tomorrow promises to be a great day, and given the fact that we had to ascend less than 1000' we should be in good shape. It was unfortunate the Buttress was so windy because it was such a beautiful climb and day. Wish us luck with the weather and perhaps our next chat will be from the summit. Good night from chilly 17,200' camp. RMI Guides Brent, Leah and Nick

On The Map

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God Speed and Good Luck to Brady O’Mara and his fellow adventurers. The Cheltenham Farrell’s

Posted by: Farrell Family on 6/4/2014 at 10:03 am

Good stuff!  Hoping you awoke to a beautiful, windless, snowless day and are making your way (carefully)to the summit right now.  Lots of prayers and good karma are with each and every one of you.  I want you all safely delivered to Talkeetna and several icy cold pitchers of beer…after you shower.  Good luck!  We love you, Brady…and your tent pal, Bruce.

Posted by: Jane O'Mara on 6/4/2014 at 7:51 am

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