This is the last day of the trip for us. We've had a really nice day here in St. Petersburg. We kicked off the morning by beating the crowd to the Hermitage Museum. Once we got in we disbanded and everyone took in the seemingly endless art works at their own pace. Everyone seemed to really enjoy the experience there.
Now we've all met up again for a boat tour on the canals. The weather is really nice here with plenty of sun and just a little crispness in the air.
Tomorrow we'll all head to the airport for our flights home. It's too bad the weather kept us from getting to the top of Mt. Elbrus but this group has really made the most of the situation. Pete and I feel really lucky that everyone had such a positive attitude throughout the trip.
Thanks guys!
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
Hello from Elbrus -
The almost full moon shone brightly last night, transforming the rock morraine in which we are camped into a vague silvery landscape of shapes and shadows. By the time we awoke they were all gone, replaced by long morning shadows and the warmth of the early light. After breakfast, we packed up our packs, donned our crampons and harnesses and headed out onto the glacier.
The climbing out of Camp 1 is a long, gradually steepening ascent straight towards Elbrus' East Summit. We climbed well, the team falling immediately into the rhythm of climbing as a rope team. By midday we had navigated our way through a small series of crevasses, switchbacked up the broad northeastern shoulder of the mountain, and reached a small outcropping of rocks at an elevation of about 14,200'. From there we were witness to impressive views of the eastern Caucasus, catching glimpses of jagged snowcapped peaks that straddle the border with Georgia. Above us, the clouds and winds that scoured the upper reaches of the mountain all day held their distance and we were treated to a calm break. Amongst the rocks we cached the food and fuel we will need for our upcoming summit bid before heading back down the mountain, chased by the clouds and wind from above that just nipped at our heels, never fully engulfing us.
Back at camp, we relaxed in the warm sun for the rest of the afternoon, watching the fascinating cloud cap on Elbrus appear over the mountain's twin summits. With the weather coming straight out of the south today the wind was splitting when it hit Elbrus, pushing clouds down both the east and west sides of the mountain. From our perspective on the north side the clouds appeared to literally boil out of Elbrus' top before flowing down the sides of the mountain and dissolving. It was an incredible sight.
The winds picked up a bit in the evening as we wrapped up dinner and headed for the tents. As we turn in for the evening the tent walls rattle and shake, making the warmth of a down sleeping bag that much more inviting. Tomorrow we are planning to move to high camp in preparation for a hopeful summit bid the following day. Keep your fingers crossed for good weather!
My team laughed its way through a 3:30 AM breakfast and hit the trail promptly at 4 AM. We trudged along by headlight with the glacier snapping and popping away, signaling again that we were among the first of the day to challenge the Khumbu Icefall. Traffic was sparse since most climbers are higher on the mountain now and going higher still. We represent the tail end of those bound for the summit.
I was pleased that my team was moving well...little talking was required as we switched off our headlights and clawed our way up and down the little ice walls that have now become familiar on the approach to the Khumbu. Subtly at first, and then a bit more obviously as we came into our first rest break, Erica's pace began to falter and things didn't seem quite so easy any-longer. This was perplexing at first, since conditions were perfect, the terrain was relatively easy and Erica's health was excellent. As planned at this point of the climb, where the Icefall steepens and the avalanche hazard to a group increases, I asked Seth, Melissa and Kent, along with Ang Kaji, to go slowly ahead. We'd stay in contact by radio. Erica and I finished our rest and moved upward, but by then, it had become clear that Erica was losing confidence in her ability to climb the mountain. Such moods come and go for climbers and I hoped this one would go soon. We determined to climb on up through the "Popcorn" section of the glacier and to reevaluate our situation at the Icefall's midpoint. Through the Corn, I was happy to see that Erica's strength and skills were intact... but clearly she had the weight of the world on her shoulders with some heavy decision-making going on. Her million dark thoughts were spawning a hundred or so in my own (less nimble) mind. I stifled the urge to "argue" Erica into an Everest summit attempt as we walked. I wouldn't do such a thing for an adult... I certainly couldn't begin anything of the sort for a seventeen-year-old. Everest is too dangerous a game... I've seen too many people die here... people who were rock-solid in their determination to climb the mountain while knowing full well the risks they took on. An individual's motivation for such a thing must come from within... not from their guide. I'd let Erica wrestle her own (very legitimate) demons. But that meant that I needed to take my own mind off of her demons for a bit, and so I climbed along with one eye on my client and one eye on the sun's first rays igniting the surrounding peaks. Seth, Melissa, Kent and Ang Kaji had prudently waited for us at the mid-point to check on our progress... and to make sure we negotiated the latest collapsed bridge on the way into the "Football Field". At first we just rested, ate and drank... the typical break. But then we came to the bigger stuff and Erica and I made the decision to descend. The mountain just seemed too big all of the sudden... the way they sometimes do. Erica decided she wanted more years, more mountains and more miles before next taking on Everest's summit and I certainly couldn't begrudge her any of those things. I barely scratched my way up the mountain for a first time at 32 years... I could not have done it at 17. We sent the others on up to CII and Erica and I worked our way carefully down to safety.
As we down-climbed, both our moods brightened...much as my ego would have inflated with another great summit guiding triumph, I was plenty satisfied that six weeks of good, safe climbing was instead followed by a smart and mature decision. We listened to my radio as yesterday's summit team made ready to leave the South Col on their descent to basecamp. All sounded well with them and we looked forward to seeing them down low. Our own team made their way on up to ABC.
Back in camp, I tried to rest away the bleary feeling that comes with 3 AM starts and I set about making new plans for my gang's summit bid. Latest forecasts show that a storm may encroach on our 24th of May attempt...so we may just can the proposed rest day at ABC on the 21st and move up for an earlier bid on the 23rd. I still hope to be of use to my teammates. I want Kent to get his camera rolling on the most spectacular vistas I've ever witnessed. I want Seth and Melissa to tag the top and I suppose now that my priorities have shifted and that Erica is safe in basecamp...I want to touch the top again myself. And so I'll move to CII on the 21st, and CIV on the South Col on the 22nd (they'll move to CIII tomorrow and then the Col on the 22nd, so we'll all be there together for an attempt on the night of the 22nd)
At least that is the plan. We shall see how my legs work. We shall see how the weather flows and how the luck breaks. Stay tuned.
Another good rest/ weather day for us today. The snow, clouds, and breeze were in and out and it was an obvious day to sit. 14,000’ Camp on Denali is turning into a small city as more and more teams move up and run into the same weather waiting game. When we first moved up there were only a handful of scattered camps. Now 14,000’ Camp is continuous, and you can meander around, walking down alleys between snow walls.The team took on a variety of tacks to stay entertained. One intrepid member measured the perimeter of camp to be a quarter mile and did a 5k, jogging some of it. A few members even joined in at points. Others wandered around and chatted with other RMI Expedition Teams. And one member has now read the ingredient list of all their snack food!
Tomorrow looks to be more of the same and already the team has made plans to build an igloo, and perhaps more - the site plan is still being finalized. The 14,000’ Camp hang continues
The wind is a feral creature, lamenting into the void. Our nearly constant companion, shifting mercurial between head and tailwind the moment we accept whatever circumstances fate most recently dealt us.
We sojourned beyond the impossible luxuries of basecamp, making our way up serpentine paths through scree and scramble, to deposit material ever higher in preparation for climbs to come.
While the sun shown splendid, the wind conspired with the very rock to threaten barrages of stones upon our heads. Luckily, our benevolent overlords: Don Dom, Toothpick, and Gator, ensured protective gear emplacement, forestalling calamity and facilitating a timely return to basecamp, amid jubilation for our first successful climb of the trip and empanadas without equal, from our generous Grajales hosts.
Seth here, checking in from the Hotel Colonial in Puebla. The group has just returned from dinner and everyone is headed to their rooms for a little shut eye.
The climb went well today and the weather was fantastic. We awoke just after one AM and hit the trail before three. We ascended 'The Knees' route on Ixta which involves several ups and downs along the way to the summit. We started with some steep rock then moved into some ridge climbing and crossed two glaciers to reach the summit. It was a spectacular day of climbing.
Everyone is looking forward to the rest day in Puebla tomorrow.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
Jambo.
Mr. Tucker here at the Mweka Camp. You call breath easier as well as us here at the 10,000’ level. All is going well. We had a big day and looking forward to some great deep sleep in the thick air tonight. We’ll have a quick hike to the gate and then back to the hotel and we’ll drop you a note from there.
Thanks.
Good Show!! Now that you guys are back in thick air, how does it feel to reach your goal? MAy everyone have a great time comming home with your adventure ready to share ... even more than this blog I mean ... thanks for the time to post. See you soon Steve!
Paul
Hello from the Altzimoni Hut on Ixta. Today we picked up our two delayed climbers in the village of Amecameca. They had been delayed due to weather in the U.S. but thanks to our outfitter, Servimont, we are now a united team.
On our drive to Amecameca we had great views of Ixta, but as we drove up the Paseo de Cortez clouds rolled in. We hiked for a few hours this afternoon in breezy conditions with the occasional snow flurry. Everyone is doing great though and we're all looking forward to spaghetti and garlic bread for dinner.
I'll check in tomorrow from high camp.
We had hopes this morning as the base camp manager said to ready everything and that planes were on the way. By 8:30 several planes hit the runway and stayed to load climbers. They departed and as the clouds edged closer, we were told they were launching planes for us and they were trying to get in. But the snow started and visibility shut down and the planes stopped landing. We kept waiting for the snow to stop and a hole to open, but it didn't come. It is now calm, but snowing prolifically. Midwinter, we would be going to sleep excited about the powder day to come. Here, we beg for it to stop so we can make our way home. But we are in a beautiful place, and we count ourselves warm, dry, and lucky to experience the power of the Alaska Range.
We had a nice warm night in our Dome tent thanks to Jim who kept the fire stoked. The morning brought clearer weather and a nice dry day. Paine Grande and it's massive glacier came into view after yesterday's blizzard.
As the team closed the "O" circuit with 10.5 miles of rolling terrain we were fortunate to see 20+ condors flying in close proximity to the trail, often in groups of 5-6. The trail brings us back into the estancia sector to where we began hiking eight days ago. This was a nice way to wrap up what's been an overcast & at times windy and damp trip. Tomorrow we will get an early start to beat the day hiking crowd up to the Towers. Keeping our fingers crossed for clear skies and dry weather.
Good Show!! Now that you guys are back in thick air, how does it feel to reach your goal? MAy everyone have a great time comming home with your adventure ready to share ... even more than this blog I mean ... thanks for the time to post. See you soon Steve!
Paul
Posted by: Paul Basta on 2/21/2011 at 11:38 am
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